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SUMMARYThis paper explores the effects on tsunami simulations of the level of detail of the bathymetric grid in use. For this purpose, we expand available bathymetric data sets of the Pacific Basin in spherical harmonics. For realistic scenarios of tsunamis generated by earthquake dislocations, we conclude that an expansion to a maximum degree lmax = 40, corresponding to wavelengths of 1000 km, is sufficient to reproduce the main features of the tsunami wavefield synthesized in deep water, that is, without considering final shoaling and interaction with coastal features.

Tsunami modelling is widely used to estimate the potential impacts of tsunamis. Models require a tide input, which can be either static, representing a specific tide level, such as Highest Astronomic Tide or dynamic, which represents a moving tide level. Although commonly used, static tide inputs do not account for tsunami–tide interactions, which are known to be non-linear and more significant in estuaries when compared to the open coast. To demonstrate the differences between tsunami models using static or dynamic tide inputs, a series of models were carried out for two New South Wales estuaries, Sydney harbour and port hacking. Model boundary conditions phased a MW 9.0 Puysegur source tsunami with multiple tide scenarios. Fourteen distinct scenarios with dynamic tides were created by phasing the largest tsunami wave peak at regular intervals across the tidal range. For comparison, static tide models were run using equivalent tide levels. The situations where static tide models provide results comparable or more conservative than dynamic tide models are for the first 1–2 h after tsunami arrival, at high tides, and when compared to dynamic falling tides at the same tide level. Differences are most apparent upriver of geomorphological constrictions. The effects of geomorphological constrictions were further examined using idealised model setups with a constriction variable. Results show that constrictions affect downriver maximum water levels, tsunami wave heights, upriver water accumulation and inundation maxima and distributions. These results have implications for estuaries vulnerable to erosion at constriction sites during a tsunami event.

In this research, we have conducted a numerical simulation to obtain the seismic source, coseismic deformation field, and the tsunami propagation of the great Lima-Peru 1940 earthquake and tsunami, based on macroseismic information and focal mechanism from the literature. The seismic dimensions of our preferred model were set at 162 km×71 km according to VIII isoseismal intensity. The slip distribution is homogeneous with a mean value of 2.7 m. The fault plane orientation was set at strike = 330∘, dip = 20∘, and rake = 90∘. The maximum simulated uplift was 1.27 m and the maximum subsidence was 0.36 m. Due to the proximity of the seismic source to the coast, the city of Huacho was uplifted around 11 cm. The fault plane of the 1940 earthquake was located in the updip near the coast. The maximum tsunami height simulated in Huacho was 1.80 m. We suggest that there is a high tsunamigenic potential near the trench to generate a shallow earthquake.

The 1783 Scilla landslide–tsunami (Calabria, southern Italy) is a well-studied event that caused more than 1500 fatalities on the beaches close to the town. This paper complements a previous work that was based on numerical simulations and was focused on the very local effects of the tsunami in Scilla. In this study we extend the computational domain to cover a wider portion of western Calabria and northeastern Sicily, including the western side of the Straits of Messina. This investigation focuses on Capo Peloro area (the easternmost cape of Sicily), where the highest tsunami effects outside Scilla were reported. Important tsunami observations, such as the wave height reaching 6 m at Torre degli Inglesi and flooding that reached over 600 m inland, have been successfully modeled but only by means of a high-resolution (10 m) topo-bathymetric grid, since coarser grids were inadequate for the purpose. Interestingly, the inundation of the small lake of Pantano Piccolo could not be reproduced by using today's coastal morphology, since a coastal dune now acts as a barrier against tsunamis. Historical analysis suggests that this dune was not in place at the time of the tsunami occurred and that a ground depression extending from the lake to the northern coast is a remnant of an ancient channel that was used as a pathway in Roman times. The removal of such an obstacle and the remodeling of the coeval morphology allows the simulations to reproduce the tsunami penetration up to the lake, thus supporting the hypothesis that the 1783 tsunami entered the lake following the Roman channel track. A further result of this study is that the computed regional tsunami propagation pattern provides a useful hint for assessing tsunami hazards in the Straits of Messina area, which is one of the most exposed areas to tsunami threats in Italy and in the Mediterranean Sea overall.

The frequent occurrence of landslide tsunami has aroused great social concern, hence an efficient approach for modeling the phenomena is required urgently. Herein, we present and supplement a meshless numerical model named ‘Tsunami Squares’ (TS). TS simulates both the landslide and its generated wave using an updated numerical scheme that has enhanced computational efficiency. TS also provides an artful way of approximating linear dispersive wave propagation and non-linear wave inundation that makes it quite capable of simulating real-scale events. A well-designed test that compares TS output with an analytical formula for a tsunami propagation calculation provides firm validation of the approach. We then applied the ‘Tsunami Squares’ to simulate the 1792 Unzen-Mayuyama mega slide and generated tsunami. This event remains the largest volcanic disaster in the history of Japan. Landslide dynamics simulated by TS coincide with historical reports and the known geometry of landslide deposits. The model output of tsunami runup heights well match the observed values recorded by the locations of historical ‘Tsunami Stones’. This well documented and data-rich case further validates the ‘Tsunami Squares’ model and the excellent reproduction of the 1792 event provides new insights for better understanding of landslide tsunami hazards.

This study demonstrates the skills of D-FLOW Flexible Mesh (FM) and SFINCS (Super-Fast INundation of CoastS) in combination with the Delft Dashboard Tsunami Toolbox to numerically simulate tsunami offshore propagation and inundation based on the example of the 2011 Tōhoku tsunami in Japan. Caused by a megathrust earthquake, this is one of the most severe tsunami events in recent history, resulting in vast inundation and devastation of the Japanese coast. The comparison of the simulated with the measured offshore water levels at four DART buoys located in the north-western Pacific Ocean shows that especially the FM but also the SFINCS model accurately reproduce the observed tsunami propagation. The inundation observed at the Sendai coast is well reproduced by both models. All in all, the model outcomes are consistent with the findings gained in earlier simulation studies. Depending on the specific needs of future tsunami simulations, different possibilities for the application of both models are conceivable: (i) the exclusive use of FM to achieve high accuracy of the tsunami offshore propagation, with the option to use an all-in-one model domain (no nesting required) and to add tsunami sediment dynamics, (ii) the combined use of FM for the accurate simulation of the tsunami propagation and of SFINCS for the accurate and time efficient simulation of the onshore inundation and (iii) the exclusive use of SFINCS to get a reliable picture of the tsunami propagation and accurate results for the onshore inundation within seconds of computational time. This manuscript demonstrates the suitability of FM and SFINCS for the rapid and reliable assessment of tsunami propagation and inundation and discusses use cases of the three model combinations that form an important base for tsunami risk management.

A tsunami is a significant coastal hazard that causes destructive damage to coastal cities in the world. Besides, tsunamis, generated on the west coast of Japan, damaged coastal cities on the east coast of Korea in 1983 and 1993. In recent years, there has been increasing interest in the potential tsunami zone near the west coast of Japan. Therefore, it is important to have tsunami observation instruments in proper locations for tsunami detection and warning aspect. This study proposes the optimal region for offshore tsunami observation instrument deployment under the limited condition that the tsunami source in out of the territorial sea by investigating areas with the highest tsunami detection probability along with maximum evacuation time and bottom slope. Using the Cornell Multi-grid Coupled Tsunami (COMCOT) numerical model and a probabilistic approach, this study suggests the optimal region for offshore tsunami detection instrument deployment to be the northeast area of Ulleung-do Island in the eastern sea of Korea.

The paper deals with the analysis of the propagation, heights, and arrival times of a tsunami that may occur on the coastal areas of Cyprus and Eastern Mediterranean in the case of an earthquake in southern Cyprus. Following a review of the seismic risk and historical earthquakes which occurred in southern Cyprus, it was concluded that this region may be subject to high vulnerability if a tsunami occurs. A study was conducted on the numerical modelling of a possible tsunami generated by movement along the fault of the 1222 Paphos earthquake. The region where the earthquake occurred can be attributed to the Cyprian Arc in the southwest of Cyprus. This arc is one of the most active seismic zones in the Mediterranean, which has led to the occurrence of earthquakes from submerged seismogenic sources. A methodology is used to simulate tsunami wave propagation for the Eastern Mediterranean coastal areas which requires the initial wave due to fault parameters as well as the bathymetry data. The GEBCO30 bathymetry data are used which have a grid spacing of 0.30 arc min. The fault parameters are deduced from the maximum stress directions and source geometry of the region from the moment tensor solutions derived from analyzing of earthquake waveforms. The numerical tsunami propagation model was performed by using SWAN code. The simulated highest tsunami heights were 4.02 m in Kouklia (Cyprus); 2.85 m in Paphos Ktima (Cyprus); 2.58 in Episkopi (Cyprus); 2.06 in Peyia (Cyprus); 1.76 in Yennadhi, Rhodes (Greece); 1.53 in Burg Migheizil (Egypt); 1.46 m in Tarabulus (Lebanon); 1.39 m in Bur Said (Egypt); 1.28 in Al-Burj (Egypt); and 0.60 in Mugla-Aksaz (Turkey). The results of the model outline the extent of the tsunami waves of damaging size, but destructive event in the region.

We propose a two-layer model with two different axes of integration and a well-balanced finite volume method. The purpose is to study submarine avalanches and generated tsunamis by a depth-averaged model with different averaged directions for the fluid and the granular layers. Two-layer shallow depth-averaged models usually consider either Cartesian or local coordinates for both layers. However, the motion characteristics of the granular layer and the water wave are different: the granular flow velocity is mainly oriented downslope while water motion related to tsunami wave propagation is mostly horizontal. As a result, the shallow approximation and depth-averaging have to be imposed (i) in the direction normal to the topography for the granular flow and (ii) in the vertical direction for the water layer. To deal with this problem, we define a reference plane related to topography variations and use the associated local coordinates to derive the granular layer equations whereas Cartesian coordinates are used for the fluid layer. Depthaveraging is done orthogonally to that reference plane for the granular layer equations and in the vertical direction for the fluid layer equations. Then, a finite volume method is defined based on an extension of the hydrostatic reconstruction. The proposed method is exactly well-balanced for two kind of stationary solutions: the classical one, when both water and granular masses are at rest; the second one, when only the granular mass is at rest. Several tests are presented to get insight into the sensitivity of the granular flow, deposit and generated water waves to the choice of the coordinate systems. Our results show that even for moderate slopes (up to 30◦), strong relative errors on the avalanche dynamics and deposit (up to 60%) and on the generated water waves (up to 120%) are made when using Cartesian coordinates for both layers instead of an appropriate local coordinate system as proposed here. Ministerio de Economía y Competitividad (MINECO). España European Commission (EC). Fondo Europeo de Desarrollo Regional (FEDER) Agence Nationale de la Recherche. France European Research Council (ERC)

A numerical model that simulates the propagation of tsunamis produced by submarine earthquakes was applied to the Caspian Sea. The model was first applied to the June 1990 (Rudbar) earthquake and our results proved to be coherent with previous simulations. It was also applied to the Krasnovodsk earthquake (1895), which had not been simulated before, and it was found that the coastal area was flooded by a tsunami, as reported in literature. Nevertheless, it was a rather local effect since the tsunami was generated in very shallow waters. Some worst-case hypothetical earthquakes were simulated in the most seismically active regions of the Caspian. In general, both the east and west coasts of the central Caspian Sea would be the most affected by these earthquake-induced tsunamis, with potential significant effects in some cases in cities such as Baku.

In the present study, the local tsunami amplification observed in Ryori Bay, located on the Sanriku coast of Japan, was investigated using numerical simulations. Large-scale tsunami propagation simulations and tsunami inundation simulations for the bay were systematically conducted to estimate and model the 2011, 1933, and 1896 tsunamis that occurred off the Sanriku coast and which resulted in large run-ups. The simulation results, which are moderately consistent with observations, presented larger run-up heights and inundations for the 1933 and 1896 tsunamis (which followed relatively small earthquakes) compared to those of the 2011 tsunami (which followed a larger earthquake). Furthermore, the frequency analysis indicated that the former two tsunamis comprised higher predominant components. A tsunami inundation simulation using parametrized synthetic waveforms was conducted to identify the contributing factors associated with the large amplification and run-ups. The results indicated that the predominant components are significantly amplified in the bay and the initial decrease in the water surface elevation prior to the primary waves of the two tsunamis leads to an increase in their run-up heights. Furthermore, the simulated waveforms of the tsunamis revealed that the 1933 and 1896 tsunamis had their wavefronts changed into a steep wavefront, i.e., a bore-like wave, during their wave developments in the bay, attributed to shoaling, narrowing bay width, and the nonlinear effect of the wave. These results, therefore, indicate that bores which are known to generate large run-up heights were generated in the bay during the two tsunamis.

Tsunami propagation over the entire Dayawan Bay was simulated using a 2D shallow water model to provide hydrodynamic boundary conditions for a 3D flow model, by which tsunami propagation inside the inlet of water-intake basin of the Dayawan Nuclear Power Plant (DNPP) was simulated. The 2D model covers the whole bay plus a little extension of the waters around the bay mouth. The sea side open boundary of the 2D model is generated from a superposition of an assumed tsunami process on a tide with exceedance probability of 10%. The event of encounter of a 10-min highest waters of the assumed tsunami process with such level of tide is estimated to be approximately a return period of 1490 years. Tsunami run-up in front of the revetment of the pump room was simulated using the 3D flow models. The rubble-mound breakwater was treated as porous medium in the simulation. Computational results of flow velocity indicate that tsunami propagation inside the basin is effectively prevented by the east breakwater. Computational results of waters in front of the revetment of the pump room indicate that the possible maximum water level is lower than the present elevation of the revetment, therefore the pump room has low risk of inundation.

This paper aims at best describing the submarine landslide which induced partial submersion of the atolls of Mururoa and Fangataufa in 1979. More precisely, waves propagated along the south coast of Mururoa atoll and penetrated into its lagoon some minutes after the landslide triggering (t = 0 s), whereas a train of eight water waves reached the runway located on the north-east coast of Fangataufa (40 km south of Mururoa) between t = 7 min 30 s and t = 20 min. A numerical model based on shallow water equations is used to simulate the landslide as well as the associated tsunami. Saint-Venant equations are used to propagate the tsunami in coastal areas, whereas the offshore propagation is simulated by solving weakly nonlinear Boussinesq equations. Low- and high-resolution nested grids are used to simulate the tsunami propagation in deep sea and in shallow waters, respectively. Several scenarios have been tested to reproduce the observed water and run-up heights in the near and far fields. The best scenarios correspond to a landslide with a volume in the range (75–90 Mm3) (for a basal friction angle of 35°) and with a basal friction angle in the range (30°–40°) (for a volume of 80 Mm3). These results have been completed by a parametric study on the slide parameters.

Recent studies suggest that the tsunami speed can be slowed down by around 1% due to Earth elasticity, water compressibility and density stratification. Analytical solutions of wave dispersion relationship, accounting for such effects, were found in previous studies. In this paper, we investigate the additional effects of water viscosity, ocean stratification due to temperature/salinity and numerical dispersion. Theoretical solutions are derived and checked with known solutions. All the formulas are then simplified for long tsunamis waves so that the propagation speed can be calculated explicitly. The simplified solutions are evaluated using realistic geophysical parameters. For a typical tsunami wavelength of ∼200km, the viscous effect is found to be negligible; ocean stratification due to temperature/salinity causes significant speed reduction because of the high density change rate, which has been ignored before. We also evaluate the numerical dispersion of tsunami simulations, which is shown to be potentially comparable to physical dispersion.

We apply a genetic algorithm (GA) to find the optimized unit sources using dispersive tsunami synthetics to estimate the tsunami source of the 2012 Haida Gwaii earthquake. The optimal number and distribution of unit sources gives the sea surface elevation similar to that from our previous slip distribution on a fault using tsunami data, but different from that using seismic data. The difference is possibly due to submarine mass failure in the source region. Dispersion effects during tsunami propagation reduce the maximum amplitudes by up to 20% of conventional linear long wave propagation model. Dispersion effects also increase tsunami travel time by approximately 1 min per 1,300 km on average. The dispersion effects on amplitudes depend on the azimuth from the tsunami source reflecting the directivity of tsunami source, while the effects on travel times depend only on the distance from the source.

Early tsunami warning critically hinges on rapid determination of the tsunami hazard potential in real-time, before waves inundate critical coastlines. Tsunami energy can quickly characterize the destructive potential of generated waves. Traditional seismic analysis is inadequate to accurately predict a tsunami’s energy. Recently, two independent approaches have been proposed to determine tsunami source energy: one inverted from the Deep-ocean Assessment and Reporting of Tsunamis (DART) data during the tsunami propagation, and the other derived from the land-based coastal global positioning system (GPS) during tsunami generation. Here, we focus on assessing these two approaches with data from the March 11, 2011 Japanese tsunami. While the GPS approach takes into consideration the dynamic earthquake process, the DART inversion approach provides the actual tsunami energy estimation of the propagating tsunami waves; both approaches lead to consistent energy scales for previously studied tsunamis. Encouraged by these promising results, we examined a real-time approach to determine tsunami source energy by combining these two methods: first, determine the tsunami source from the globally expanding GPS network immediately after an earthquake for near-field early warnings; and then to refine the tsunami energy estimate from nearby DART measurements for improving forecast accuracy and early cancelations. The combination of these two real-time networks may offer an appealing opportunity for: early determination of the tsunami threat for the purpose of saving more lives, and early cancelation of tsunami warnings to avoid unnecessary false alarms.

Aoyama, Y.; Adityawan, M.B., Widiyanto, W., Mitobe, Y., Komori, D., and Tanaka, H., 2016. Numerical Study on Tsunami Propagation into a River. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 1017 - 1021. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. The Tohoku Earthquake and Tsunami in 2011 caused serious damage not only to coastal structures, but also to riverine infrastructure due to long distance of wave propagation into rivers located on the coast facing the Pacific Ocean. Although there have been numerous investigations on tsunami, limited number of studies have been made for tsunami propagation into a river channel. This study investigates tsunami propagation into a river numerically by comparing with laboratory experiment data. The present numerical simulation is based on shallow water equations, which are solved with the MacCormack sch...

Tsunami modeling and simulation has changed in the past few years more than it had in decades, especially so with respect to coastal inundation. Among other things, this change is supported by the approaching era of exa-scale computing, whether via GPU or more likely forms of hybrid computing whose presence is growing across the geosciences. For reasons identified across this review, exa-scale computing efforts will impact the on-shore, highly turbulent r\'egime to higher degree than the 2D shallow water equations used to model tsunami propagation in the open ocean. This short review describes the different approaches to tsunami modeling from generation to impact and underlines the limits of each model based on the flow r\'egime. Moreover, from the perspective of a future comprehensive multi-scale modeling infrastructure to simulate a full tsunami, we underline the current challenges associated with this approach and review the few efforts that are currently underway to achieve this goal. A table of existing tsunami software packages is provided along with an open Github repository to allow developers and model users to update the table with additional models as they are published and help with model discoverability.

Fifteen years since the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami, which caused massive destruction around the Andaman Sea, people have participated in efforts to reduce tsunami risks in Indonesia. However, the most important question continues to be on whether such efforts are sufficient in dealing with tsunami risks. Among the most striking challenges here is bridging the gap in tsunami risk reduction between the Sumatra mainland and among communities in several small islands. Thus, this research aims to investigate the recent conditions of selected towns/cities in tsunami-prone small islands and identify the impediments to their tsunami hazard preparedness. It focuses on comparing efforts in terms of available facilities for tsunami evacuation plans and the tsunami estimated time of arrival (ETA), which is computed based on deterministic tsunami propagation models. In this regard, five of the observed locations are classified as being in a critical tsunami preparedness condition, namely Balai island, Lahewa of Nias Island, Sabeugunggung of North pagai Island, Surat Aban of South Pagai island, and Enggano Island. Most of them have limited space for tsunami evacuation and a short tsunami ETA, which constitutes an extreme condition requiring immediate tsunami mitigation measures. One possible approach is to construct a vertical tsunami evacuation building or modify existing buildings that can be used for tsunami evacuation on the islands. This article also highlights societal aspects related to tsunami preparedness.

This paper addresses the tsunami propagation and subsequent coastal areas flooding by means of a depth-integrated numerical model. Such an approach is fundamental in order to assess the inundation hazard in coastal areas generated by seismogenic tsunami. In this study we adopted, an interdisciplinary approach, in order to consider the tsunami propagation, relates both to geomorphological characteristics of the coast and the bathymetry. In order to validate the numerical model, comparisons with results of other studies were performed. This manuscript presents first applicative results achieved using the weakly dispersive Boussinesq model in the field of tsunami propagation and coastal inundation. Ionic coast of Sicily (Italy) was chosen as a case study due to its high level of exposure to tsunamis. Indeed, the tsunami could be generated by an earthquake in the external Calabrian arc or in the Hellenic arc, both active seismic zones. Finally, in order to demonstrate the possibility to give indications to local authorities, an inundation map, over a small area, was produced by means of the numerical model.

We present a method of tsunami data assimilation using a linear dispersive model in order to provide an accurate tsunami early warning. To speed up the assimilation process, we use the Green’s function-based tsunami data assimilation, in which the Green’s functions are calculated in advance with linear dispersive tsunami propagation models. We demonstrate a test case in the Nankai Trough off southwest Japan, with a source model similar to the main shock of the 2004 off the Kii Peninsula earthquake (M7.4) which generated tsunamis with dispersive characteristics. We show that assimilation of existing ocean bottom pressure gauge data can rapidly forecast the tsunami arrival time and the maximum height of the first tsunami peak along the coast of Shikoku and Kyushu Islands. Both the linear long-wave model and the linear dispersive model can accurately forecast the tsunami height, but the linear dispersive model can predict the tsunami arrival time more accurately for the tested earthquake.

International audience; In the tsunami waves context, efficient numerical methods are necessary to simulate multiscales events. One way to reduce the computational cost is to use an adaptive mesh refinement method on unstructured meshes. This approach is used in this paper with a finite volume scheme solving the multi-dimensional Saint-Venant system. The adaptive mesh refinement method follows a block-based decomposition (called BB-AMR), which allows quick meshing and easy parallelization. One step of the AMR method is the so-called projection step where the new mesh values have to be defined from the old ones. For vertically integrated model the bathymetry variation during the projection step plays a crucial role on the mass conservation. To avoid large deficit or excess of mass a special attention is given to the projection step. Finally a 3D test case simulation is compared to experimental results to illustrated the quasi conservation of the mass with an appropriated projection method.

International audience; The identification of lobate debris deposits in Arabia Terra, along the proposed paleoshoreline of a former northern ocean, has renewed questions about the existence and stability of ocean-sized body of water in the early geologic history of Mars. The potential occurrence of impact-generated tsunamis in a northern ocean was investigated by comparing the geomorphologic characteristics of the Martian deposits with the predictions of well-validated terrestrial models (scaled to Mars) of tsunami wave height, propagation direction, runup elevation, and distance for three potential sea levels. Our modeling suggests several potential impact craters similar to 30-50km in diameter as the source of the tsunami events. Within the complex topography of flat-floored valleys and plateaus along the dichotomy boundary, the interference of the multiple reflected and refracted waves that are observed in the simulation may explain the origin of the arcuate pattern that characterizes the thumbprint terrain. Plain Language Summary The possibility that a large ocean once occupied the Martian northern plains is one of the most important and controversial hypotheses to have originated from the exploration of Mars. We mapped lobate deposits, which appear and are potential tsunami deposits associated with the existence of a former ocean. We identified the most probable crater sources of the proposed tsunami deposits from a numerical modeling. We tested the ability of the tsunami hypothesis to explain the origin and location of the previously enigmatic thumbprint terrain of northern Arabia Terra which our models suggest were formed by the interaction of the refracted tsunami waves with those reflected by the shore and offshore islands/obstacles. The age of the deposits is determined by the latest crater dating techniques. It provides evidence of the existence of Martian ocean as recently as Early Amazonian (similar to 3 Ga), which has implications for understanding the volatile inventory Mars, its hydrologic and climatic evolution, and the potential for the origin of survival of life.

The second largest recorded tsunami along the Caribbean margin of Central America occurred 25 years ago. On April 22nd, 1991, an earthquake with magnitude Mw 7.6 ruptured along the thrust faults that form the North Panama ́ Deformed Belt (NPDB). The earthquake triggered a tsunami that affected the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica and Panama ́ within few minutes, generating two casualties. These are the only deaths caused by a tsunami in Costa Rica. Coseismic uplift up to 1.6 m and runup values larger than 2 m were measured along some coastal sites. Here, we consider three solutions for the seismic source as initial conditions to model the tsunami, each considering a single rupture plane. We performed numerical modeling of the tsunami propagation and runup using NEOWAVE numerical model (Yamazaki et al. in Int J Numer Methods Fluids 67:2081–2107, 2010, doi: 10.1002/fld.2485 ) on a system of nested grids from the entire Caribbean Sea to Limo ́n city. The modeled surface deformation and tsunami runup agreed with the measured data along most of the coastal sites with one preferred model that fits the field data. The model results are useful to determine how the 1991 tsunami could have affected regions where tsunami records were not preserved and to simulate the effects of the coastal surface deformations as buffer to tsunami. We also performed tsunami modeling to simulate the consequences if a similar event with larger magnitude Mw 7.9 occurs offshore the southern Costa Rican Caribbean coast. Such event would generate maximum wave heights of more than 5 m showing that Limo ́n and northwestern Panama ́ coastal areas are exposed to moderate-to-large tsunamis. These simulations considering historical events and maximum credible scenarios can be useful for hazard assessment and also as part of studies leading to tsunami evacuation maps and mitigation plans, even when that is not the scope of this paper. El segundo tsunami más grande registrado a lo largo del margen caribeño de América Central ocurrió hace 25 años. El 22 de abril de 1991, un terremoto de magnitud Mw 7.6 se rompió a lo largo de las fallas de empuje que forman el Cinturón Deformado del Norte de Panamá (NPDB). El terremoto provocó un tsunami que afectó la costa caribeña de Costa Rica y Panamá en pocos minutos, generando dos víctimas. Estas son las únicas muertes causadas por un tsunami en Costa Rica. El levantamiento sísmico de hasta 1,6 my valores de elevación superiores a 2 m se midieron a lo largo de algunos sitios costeros. Aquí, consideramos tres soluciones para la fuente sísmica como condiciones iniciales para modelar el tsunami, cada una considerando un solo plano de ruptura. Realizamos un modelado numérico de la propagación y ejecución del tsunami utilizando el modelo numérico NEOWAVE (Yamazaki et al. En Int J Numer Methods Fluids 67: 2081–2107, 2010, doi: 10.1002 / fld.2485) en un sistema de cuadrículas anidadas de todo el conjunto. Mar Caribe a la ciudad de Limón. La deformación de la superficie modelada y el tsunami coincidieron con los datos medidos en la mayoría de los sitios costeros con un modelo preferido que se ajusta a los datos del campo. Los resultados del modelo son útiles para determinar cómo el tsunami de 1991 podría haber afectado las regiones donde no se conservaron los registros de tsunami y para simular los efectos de las deformaciones de la superficie costera como amortiguador del tsunami. También realizamos modelos de tsunamis para simular las consecuencias si ocurre un evento similar con una magnitud mayor de Mw 7.9 en alta mar en la costa caribeña del sur de Costa Rica. Tal evento generaría alturas máximas de olas de más de 5 m, lo que muestra que las áreas costeras de Limón y el noroeste de Panamá están expuestas a tsunamis de moderados a grandes. Estas simulaciones que consideran eventos históricos y escenarios de máxima credibilidad pueden ser útiles para la evaluación de riesgos y también como parte de estudios que conducen a mapas de evacuación de tsunamis y planes de mitigación, incluso cuando ese no es el alcance de este documento. Universidad Nacional, Costa Rica SINAMOT Departamento de Física

In this paper, the development of a class of depth-integrated, phase-resolving models for surface wave propagation, known as Boussinesq-type models (BTMs), is reviewed. This review concentrates on the extension of the leading order formulation for weakly dispersive waves to include a range of physical effects and considers model applications at a range of scales ranging from surf zone processes to ocean basin–scale tsunami propagation. A brief overview of the connection of BTMs to nonhydrostatic models, in either depth-integrated or three-dimensional form, is included.

Environmental Modelling & Software, pp. online, 2010; International audience; A numerical simulation of the 26th December 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami for the entire coast of Sri Lanka is presented. The simulation approach is based on a fully nonlinear Boussinesq tsunami propagation model and a robust coseismic source. The simulation is first confronted to available measured wave height. The agreement between observations and the predicted wave heights allowed a reasonable validation of the simulation. As a result a synoptic picture of the tsunami impact is provided over the entire coast of Sri Lanka. It is found that amplification due to shoaling applies mainly in the Eastern and Southern coast because, here, the wave is propagating across the sea floor slope, while propagating along the slope for the Western coast. Spots of high waves are due to wave focusing in some coastal areas while local submarine canyons in other areas inhibit the wave amplification.

We present here features linking earthquakes and tsunamis. For a tsunamigenic earthquake, their respective informations may help as a cross-calibrating, and thus, both co-seismic displacement and tsunami propagation can be better characterized. In particular, the hydrographic information (observations or simulations) may complement seismic data in the description of the rupture process. In order to illustrate such calibration method we have considered the December 26, 2004 Sumatra/Andaman earthquake and tsunami events. An example of seismic source calibration with tide gauge records, anomalies of sea level altimetric data and tsunami modeling is reviewed. Once the calibration is satisfactory and the associated numerical simulation robust, we review that this latter one may help in the tsunami risk assessment in a pronostic mode (the Thailand case study). It may also help in a diagnostic mode in performing process studies (the Bangladesh case study).

The 2015 Mw8.3 Illapel, Chile earthquake is the latest megathrust event on the central segment of that subduction zone. It generated strong ground motions and a large (up to 11 m runup) tsunami which prompted the evacuation of more than 1 million people in the first hours following the event. Observations during recent earthquakes suggest that these phenomena can be associated with rupture on different parts of the megathrust. The deep portion generates strong shaking while slow, large slip on the shallow fault is responsible for the tsunami. It is unclear whether all megathrusts can have shallow slip during coseismic rupture and what physical properties regulate this. Here we show that the Illapel event ruptured both deep and shallow segments with substantial slip. We resolve a kinematic slip model using regional geophysical observations and analyze it jointly with teleseismic backprojection. We find that the shallow and deep portions of the megathrust are segmented and have fundamentally different behavior. We forward calculate local tsunami propagation from the resolved slip and find good agreement with field measurements, independently validating the slip model. These results show that the central portion of the Chilean subduction zone has accumulated a significant shallow slip deficit and indicates that, given enough time, shallow slip might be possible everywhere along the subduction zone.

The seismic crisis that hit Calabria (South Italy) since the beginning of 1783, lasted 3 years with strong earthquakes concentrated in the first 2 months, causing many fatalities and great destruction, as reported by several detailed historical reports. Following an earthquake that occurred on February 6, 1783, a mass with volume of about 6 Mm3 detached from the flank of Mount Paci and collapsed into the sea. In 1 min, huge waves attacked the nearby village of Scilla and killed most of the people that had gathered in the wide shore named Marina Grande to escape from seismic danger. More than 1500 people died due to the tsunami, many buildings were destroyed. In the paper, such catastrophic event is studied by means of numerical models. First we reconstruct the initial sliding mass and compute its motion through a Lagrangian model; then, we simulate the tsunami generation, propagation and flooding on the coast of Scilla by means of a nonlinear shallow-water equations model. The results of the simulation are compared against the detailed description of the tsunami effects available from several historical accounts and are found to be in a very satisfactory agreement with the 6–8 m inundation height reported in the Marina Grande beach.

Indian Ocean (2004) Tsunami and following tragic consequences demonstrated lack of relevant experience and preparedness among involved coastal nations. After the event, scientific and forecasting circles of affected countries have started a capacity building to tackle similar problems in the future. Different approaches have been used for tsunami propagation, such as Boussinesq and Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations (NSWE). These approximations were obtained assuming different relevant importance of nonlinear, dispersion and spatial gradient variation phenomena and terms. The paper describes further development of original TUNAMI-N2 model to take into account additional phenomena: astronomic tide, sea bottom friction, dispersion, Coriolis force, and spherical curvature. The code is modified to be suitable for operational forecasting, and the resulting version (TUNAMI-N2-NUS) is verified using test cases, results of other models, and real case scenarios. Using the 2004 Tsunami event as one of the scenarios, the paper examines sensitivity of numerical solutions to variation of different phenomena and parameters, and the results are analyzed and ranked accordingly.

The 1883 Krakatau volcanic eruption has generated a destructive tsunami higher than 40 m on the Indonesian coast where more than 36 000 lives were lost. Sea level oscillations related with this event have been reported on significant distances from the source in the Indian, Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Evidence of many manifestations of the Krakatau tsunami was a subject of the intense discussion, and it was suggested that some of them are not related with the direct propagation of the tsunami waves from the Krakatau volcanic eruption. Present paper analyzes the hydrodynamic part of the Krakatau event in details. The worldwide propagation of the tsunami waves generated by the Krakatau volcanic eruption is studied numerically using two conventional models: ray tracing method and two-dimensional linear shallow-water model. The results of the numerical simulations are compared with available data of the tsunami registration.

Case studies of landslide tsunamis require integration of marine geology data and interpretations into numerical simulations of tsunami attack. Many landslide tsunami generation and propagation models have been proposed in recent time, further motivated by the 1998 Papua New Guinea event. However, few of these models have proven capable of integrating the best available marine geology data and interpretations into successful case studies that reproduce all available tsunami observations and records. We show that nonlinear and dispersive tsunami propagation models may be necessary for many landslide tsunami case studies. GEOWAVE is a comprehensive tsunami simulation model formed in part by combining the Tsunami Open and Progressive Initial Conditions System (TOPICS) with the fully non-linear Boussinesq water wave model FUNWAVE. TOPICS uses curve fits of numerical results from a fully nonlinear potential flow model to provide approximate landslide tsunami sources for tsunami propagation models, based on marine geology data and interpretations. In this work, we validate GEOWAVE with successful case studies of the 1946 Unimak, Alaska, the 1994 Skagway, Alaska, and the 1998 Papua New Guinea events. GEOWAVE simulates accurate runup and inundation at the same time, with no additional user interference or effort, using a slot technique. Wave breaking, if it occurs during shoaling or runup, is also accounted for with a dissipative breaking model acting on the wave front. The success of our case studies depends on the combination of accurate tsunami sources and an advanced tsunami propagation and inundation model.

International audience; The impacts of tides on extreme tsunami propagation due to potential Nankai Trough earthquakes in the Seto Inland Sea (SIS), Japan, are investigated through numerical experiments. Tsunami experiments are conducted based on five scenarios that consider tides at 4 different phases, such as flood, high, ebb, and low tides. The probes that were selected arbitrarily in the Bungo and Kii Channels show less significant effects of tides on tsunami heights and the arrival times of the first waves than those that experience large tidal ranges in inner basins and bays of the SIS. For instance, the maximum tsunami height and the arrival time at Toyomaesi differ by more than 0.5 m and nearly 1 hr, respectively, depending on the tidal phase. The uncertainties defined in terms of calculated maximum tsunami heights due to tides illustrate that the calculated maximum tsunami heights in the inner SIS with standing tides have much larger uncertainties than those of two channels with propagating tides. Particularly in Harima Nada, the uncertainties due to the impacts of tides are greater than 50% of the tsunami heights without tidal interaction. The results recommend to simulate tsunamis together with tides in shallow water environments to reduce the uncertainties involved with tsunami modeling and predictions for tsunami hazards preparedness.

This paper reports the effects of 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami onto the Ulee Lheue harbour facility, Banda Aceh – Indonesia. The breakwater that had damaged after tsunami were rebuilt into its original design once more due to UNDP funding source. As the existing construction knowing how much the chance it stands againts the tsunami in various terms would be decent for further improvement. This research aim is to measure the capabilities of the breakwater againts the various tsunami scenario. performing the numerical simulation to analyze the hydrodynamics we used both COMCOT and Delft3D-flow for tsunami propagation in line with the hydrodynamics. Several observation points were deployed representing each part of the breakwater. The process revealed that the breakwater only able to hold 8.0 Mw induced wave from overtopping. uniquely when 8.2 Mw tsunami wave strikes the breakwater till overtopped but not giving enough energy to move the boulder aside. Potential movement of the boulder occurred when the 8.4 Mw tsunami wave come through the breakwater produced 77.12 m (5.88 %) damaged structure. The 8.6 Mw single fault highest magnitude gave 209.32 m long (15.97%) destruction upon this Ulee Lheue Harbour breakwater.

Tsunami propagation is analyzed for the Ligurian Sea with particular attention on the French coasts of the Mediterranean. Historical data of tsunami manifestation on the French coast are analyzed for the period 2000 B.C.–1991 A.D. Numerical simulations of potential and historical tsunamis in the Ligurian Sea are done in the context of the nonlinear shallow water theory. Tsunami wave heights as well as their distribution function is calculated for historical tsunamis and it is shown that the log-normal distribution describes reasonably the simulated data. This demonstrates the particular role of bottom irregularities for the wave height distribution function near the coastlines. Also, spectral analysis of numerical tide-gauge records is done for potential tsunamis, revealing the complex resonant interactions between the tsunami waves and the bottom oscillations. It is shown that for an earthquake magnitude of 6.8 (averaged value for the Mediterranean Sea) the tsunami phenomenon has a very local character but with long duration. For sources located near the steep continental slope in the vicinity of the French-Italian Rivera, the tsunami tide-gauge records in the vicinity of Cannes – Imperia present irregular oscillations with a characteristic period of 20–30 min and a total duration of 10–20 h. For the western French coasts the amplitudes are significantly less with characteristic low-frequency oscillations (period of 40 min–1 h).

This paper seeks to investigate the effectiveness of sea-defense structures in preventing/reducing the tsunami overtopping as well as evaluating the resulting tsunami impact at El Jadida, Morocco. Different tsunami wave conditions are generated by considering various earthquake scenarios of magnitudes ranging from Mw = 8.0 to Mw = 8.6. These scenarios represent the main active earthquake faults in the SW Iberia margin and are consistent with two past events that generated tsunamis along the Atlantic coast of Morocco. The behaviour of incident tsunami waves when interacting with coastal infrastructures is analysed on the basis of numerical simulations of near-shore tsunami waves' propagation. Tsunami impact at the affected site is assessed through computing inundation and current velocity using a high-resolution digital terrain model that incorporates bathymetric, topographic and coastal structures data. Results, in terms of near-shore tsunami propagation snapshots, waves' interaction with coastal barriers, and spatial distributions of flow depths and speeds, are presented and discussed in light of what was observed during the 2011 Tohoku-oki tsunami. Predicted results show different levels of impact that different tsunami wave conditions could generate in the region. Existing coastal barriers around the El Jadida harbour succeeded in reflecting relatively small waves generated by some scenarios, but failed in preventing the overtopping caused by waves from others. Considering the scenario highly impacting the El Jadida coast, significant inundations are computed at the sandy beach and unprotected areas. The modelled dramatic tsunami impact in the region shows the need for additional tsunami standards not only for sea-defense structures but also for the coastal dwellings and houses to provide potential in-place evacuation.

The 2010 Chile tsunami had different effects along the Chilean coast. Seawater surged hundred meters into many rivers, though field surveys showed that the 2 km wide Biobio River did not experience any flooding. In a similar manner, the coastal zones sout

International audience; A numerical simulation of the 26th December, 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami of the Tamil Nadu coastal zone is presented. The simulation approach is based on a fully nonlinear Boussinesq tsunami propagation model and included an accurate computational domain and a robust coseismic source. The simulation is first confronted to available tide gauge and runup observations. The agreement between observations and the predicted wave heights allowed a reasonable validation of the simulation. As a result, a full picture of the tsunami impact is provided over the entire coastal zone Tamil Nadu. The processes responsible for coastal vulnerability are discussed.

International audience; A numerical simulation of the 26th December 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami for the Andaman and Nicobar Islands case study is presented. The simulation approach is based on a fully nonlinear Boussinesq tsunami propagation model and included an accurate computational domain and a robust coseismic source. The simulation is first confronted to available tide gauge and run-up observations. The agreement between observations and the predicted wave heights allowed a reasonable validation of the simulation. As a result a full picture of the tsunami impact is provided over the entire coastal zone of Andaman and Nicobar Islands. The processes responsible for coastal vulnerability are discussed.

[1] The devastating 26 December 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami stressed the need for assessing tsunami hazard in vulnerable coastal areas. Numerical modeling is but one important tool for understanding past tsunami events and simulating future ones. Here we present a robust simulation of the event, which explains the large runups and destruction observed in coastal Thailand and identifies areas vulnerable to future tsunamis, or safer for reconstruction. To do so, we use an accurate tsunami source, which was iteratively calibrated in earlier work to explain the large-scale tsunami features, and apply it over a computational domain with a finer grid and more accurate coastal bathymetry in Thailand. Computations are performed with a well-validated numerical model based on fully nonlinear and dispersive Boussinesq equations (FUNWAVE) that adequately models the physics of tsunami propagation and runup, including dissipation caused by bottom friction and wave breaking. Simulated runups in Thailand reproduce field observations with a surprising degree of accuracy, as well as their high degree of along-coast variation: a 92% correlation is found between (58) runup observations and computations, while the model explains 85% of the observed variance; overall, the RMS error is approximately 1 m or 17% of the mean observed runup value (skill of the simulation). Because we did not use runup observations to calibrate our coseismic tsunami source, these results are robust, and thus provide a uniquely accurate synoptic prediction of tsunami impact along the Andaman coast of Thailand, including those areas where no observations were made.

This paper presents a 2D model for predicting tsunami propagation on dynamically adaptive grids. In this model, a finite volume Godunov-type scheme is implemented to solve the 2D nonlinear shallow ...