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A recently developed compound 1DH numerical model for simulating coastal sediment transport and bed morphology evolution is extended and validated in two horizontal dimensions. The wave module is a higher-order Boussinesq-type model. The bed load in the surf zone is computed from an advanced semi-empirical formula while the suspended load can be calculated through the solution of the advection-diffusion equation for the sediment or alternatively from a simplified formula. The estimation of the sediment transport in the swash zone is based on the ballistic theory. Extended simulation time is achieved through the application of the morphological accelerator factor technique. The validation tests showed a good response of the model with regard to longshore sediment transport under the combined action of waves and currents. A similarly good behaviour of the said model in the cross-shore direction was presented in a previous paper. In addition, the formation of a tombolo behind a detached breakwater is...

This paper concerns numerical modelling of the impact on the littoral drift and the shoreline from groynes forming a field of equidistant and identical groynes. The most important effect of a groyne on the shoreline morphology is that the littoral drift is blocked completely or partially. A local reduction in the littoral drift around the groyne introduces alongshore gradients in the alongshore sediment transport and sedimentation and erosion around the groyne which will cause re-orientation of the bed contours towards the prevailing wave direction until an equilibrium is reached. A discussion of this mechanism is presented including effects of scales, e.g. the effect of the relative length of the groynes (compared to the width of the surf zone). The model results indicate a strong dependency of the reduction in littoral drift on the initial geometric bypass ratio (Qgeo*), which is defined from the groyne length and the littoral transport on the undisturbed coastline; Qgeo* is the transport occurring outside the tip of the groynes divided by the total transport. It is found that the sensitivity of the littoral drift to variations in groyne spacing and the angle, of the approaching waves, is inversely proportional to Qgeo*.

Sorensen, C.; Dronen, N.K.; Knudsen, P.; Jensen, J., and Sorensen, P., 2016. An extreme event as a game changer in coastal erosion management. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 700–704. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. The construction of hard protection measures along the northeast coast of Sealand, Denmark, has gradually led to profile steepening, loss of beaches, and increased storm erosion. Although the problem has been addressed for decades no common solutions have been implemented yet. However, the impact of cyclone Xaver in December 2013 with severe coastal erosion led to collaboration between the involved municipalities to work on a coherent solution for the entire coastline that involves sand nourishments, renovation and optimization of hard protection structures, and the restoration of recreational values. ...

A two-dimensional high-order Boussinesq-type model was derived to simulate wave propagation and relevant processes in the nearshore zone. Because of its enhanced nonlinear character, the model can describe more accurately the amplitude dispersion compared to its weakly nonlinear counterpart. Extension to the surf zone was accomplished using the eddy-viscosity concept for simulating breaking waves. Swash-zone dynamics were simulated by applying a modified narrow-slot technique. Bottom friction and subgrid turbulent mixing were also incorporated. The model can estimate the wave-induced current field, including the undertow effect. The numerical model relied on a generalized multistep predictor-corrector scheme, and the waves were generated using the source function method. Both the one-horizontal-dimensional (1DH) and two-horizontal-dimensional (2DH) versions were validated against a variety of experimental tests, including regular and irregular wave propagation and breaking on plane beaches and sub...

A two horizontal dimensional compound model is developed to simulate coastal sediment transport and bed morphology evolution due to wave action. The wave module is a higher-order Boussinesq-type model. The bed load in the surf zone is computed from an advanced semi-empirical formula while the suspended load can be calculated through the solution of the advection-diffusion equation for the sediment or alternatively from a simplified formula. The estimation of the sediment transport in the swash zone is based on the ballistic theory. The unified sediment transport module is valid under combined waves and currents including the wave asymmetry and phase-lag effects. The bathymetry is updated through the sediment conservation equation and the morphological accelerator factor technique accounts for extended simulation time. The model is validated against a number of short-term tests in one horizontal dimension. The response is generally good with most of the morphological features being reproduced in the cross-shore direction. A comparison between various sediment transport formulae and a sensitivity analysis are also performed illustrating the need for inclusion of the phase-lag effects.