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Copyright of International Journal of Cosmetic Science is the property of Wiley-Blackwell and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Upon chronological aging, human skin undergoes structural and molecular modifications, especially at the level of type I collagen. This macromolecule is one of the main dermal structural proteins and presents several age-related alterations. It exhibits a triple helical structure and assembles itself to form fibrils and fibers. In addition, water plays an important role in stabilizing the collagen triple helix by forming hydrogen-bonds between collagen residues. However, the influence of water on changes of dermal collagen fiber orientation with age has not been yet understood. Polarized-Fourier Transform Infrared (P-FTIR) imaging is an interesting biophotonic approach to determine in situ the orientation of type I collagen fibers, as we have recently shown by comparing skin samples of different ages. In this work, P-FTIR spectral imaging was performed on skin samples from two age groups (35- and 38-year-old on the one hand, 60- and 66-year-old on the other hand), and our analyses were focused on the effect of H2O/D2O substitution. Spectral data were processed with fuzzy C-means (FCM) clustering in order to distinguish different orientations of collagen fibers. We demonstrated that the orientation was altered with aging, and that D2O treatment, affecting primarily highly bound water molecules, is more marked for the youngest skin samples. Collagen-bound water-related spectral markers were also highlighted. Our results suggest a weakening of water/collagen interactions with age. This non-destructive and label-free methodology allows us to understand better the importance of bound water in collagen fiber orientation alterations occurring with skin aging. Obtaining such structural information could find benefits in dermatology as well as in cosmetics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

To identify and characterize glycation, induced modifications of DNA are crucial toward understanding their functional significance due to their significant role in the long term control of aging and age-related diseases. In this study, we present the ability of Raman microspectroscopy as a novel analytical technique for a rapid and reliable identification of glycated DNA in a reagent-free manner. We have demonstrated that this technique has potential to provide very small conformational modifications. The combination of principal component analysis (PCA) and two-dimensional (2D) correlation spectroscopy has assisted us to explore in vitro DNA-glycation and provide more insights into the dynamics of the DNA-glycation process in an easier fashion. PCA analysis of Raman spectra shows a clear discrimination between native and glycated DNA samples. On the other hand, 2D correlation Raman analysis provides sequential order of the mechanism of the DNA-glycation process, and most likely, it occurs in the following sequence: Structural modifications of individual nucleobases (G > A > C) → DNA backbone modifications → partial transition of DNA conformations (A to B form). Our observations clearly suggest that the structure of DNA is altered, i.e., a partial transition of DNA backbone conformation from A to B form when glycated, but does not induce any final transition in DNA double helix conformation, and eventually, DNA presents in an intermediate A-B form, more toward the B form. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

We report here on a first study using synchrotron radiation-based Fourier transform infrared microspectroscopy and imaging to investigate HT1080 human fibrosarcoma cells grown onto different-aged type I collagen networks. Spectral images were analyzed with k-means and fuzzy C-means (FCM) clustering algorithms. K-means delineated tumor cells from their surrounding collagen networks and the latter as a function of age mainly due to specific changes in the sugar absorption region. The FCM analysis gave a better nuance of the spectral images. A progression of the biochemical information was observed upon going from the cellular compartments to the pericellular contact regions and to the intact collagens of the different age groups. Two spectral markers based on sugar and protein bands via the intensity ratio (I1032/I1655) and band area ratio (Asugar/Aamide II), showed an increase in advanced glycation endproducts (AGEs) with age. A clear-separation of the three age groups was obtained for spectra originating from the peripheral contact areas mainly due to changes in protein band intensities. The above-described markers decreased to constant levels for the three conditions indicating a masking of the biochemical information. These results hold promises to better understand the impact of age on tumor progression processes while highlighting new markers of the tumor cell invasion front. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

BACKGROUND: During pathological and/or physiological processes, such as tumoral progression or aging, human skin undergoes molecular and structural changes mainly due to alterations of dermal structural proteins such as type I collagen. These modifications in dermis are probably due to collagen fibers rearrangement and reorientation which have not been thoroughly studied up to now. FT-IR (Fourier transform infrared) microspectroscopy associated to polarization measurement appears as an interesting method to determine in situ the alignment of type I collagen fibers.OBJECTIVE: In this paper, two different clustering algorithms were applied to determine different layers in human skin. Besides, we used polarized FT-IR imaging to evaluate the molecular organization of dermal collagen.METHODS: To do this, a cryosection of skin from 48-year-old woman was analyzed. Acquired FT-IR images were firstly processed using K-means and fuzzy C-means (FCM). FCM was chosen on polarized FT-IR images in order to highlight the molecular orientation of dermal collagen fibrils. The ratio of Amide I/Amide II bands integrated intensities was computed in order to assess the orientation of collagen fibrils.RESULTS AND CONCLUSION: This methodology permitted to reveal the potential of polarized FT-IR microspectroscopy for the characterization of type I collagen network in human skin. Our approach could help to find innovative applications in dermatology as well as in cosmetics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

During chronological skin aging, alterations in dermal structural proteins cause morphological modifications. Modifications are probably due to collagen fiber (type I collagen) rearrangement and reorientation with aging that have not been researched until now. FTIR microspectroscopy appears as an interesting method to study protein structure under normal and pathological conditions. Associated with a polarizer, this vibrational technique permits us to probe collagen orientation within skin tissue sections, by computing the ratio of integrated intensities of amide I and amide II bands. In this study, we used the polarized-FTIR imaging to evaluate molecular modifications of dermal collagen during chronological aging. The data processing of polarized infrared data revealed that type I collagen fibers become parallel to the skin surface in aged skin dermis. Our approach could find innovative applications in dermatology as well as in cosmetics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The development and characterization of reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) is an active area of R&D. RHE can replace animal tissues in pharmaceutical, toxicological and cosmetic sciences, yielding scientific and ethical advantages. RHEs remain costly, however, due to consumables and time required for their culture and a short shelf-life. Storing, i.e., freezing RHE could help reduce costs but to date, little is known on the effects of freezing on the barrier function of RHE. We studied such effects using commercial EpiSkin™ RHE stored at −20, −80 and −150 °C for 1 and 10 weeks. We acquired intrinsic Raman spectra in the stratum corneum (SC) of the RHEs as well as spectra obtained following topical application of resorcinol in an aqueous solution. In parallel, we quantified the effects of freezing on the permeation kinetics of resorcinol from time-dependent permeation experiments. Principal component analyses discriminated the intrinsic SC spectra and the spectra of resorcinol-containing RHEs, in each case on the basis of the freezing conditions. Permeation of resorcinol through the frozen RHE increased 3- to 6-fold compared to fresh RHE, with the strongest effect obtained from freezing at −20 °C for 10 weeks. Due to the extensive optimization and standardization of EpiSkin™ RHE, the effects observed in our work may be expected to be more pronounced with other RHEs. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]