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Offshore structures are deployed extensively to harvest marine resources. Due to the harsh marine environments and heavy-duty working conditions, the risks associated with failure due to scour are high, and the need for accurate prediction of these risks is increasing. Often, pipelines and cables are critical elements of subsea energy transportation and telecommunication, and they are highly susceptible to scour-induced failure. The scour around spheres is relevant to the offshore industry as a simplified three-dimensional representation of subsea structures. This paper presents a numerical study, using FLOW-3D HYDRO, of the scour around on-bottom cylinders and spheres. Whereas most published research investigated scour around stationary solid objects, this paper presents numerical results of a more challenging case of scour around sagging cylinders and spheres. The model was validated against published experimental and numerical results. The scour depth was found to increase with the decrease of the sagging velocity of the solid object. For sagging horizontal cylinders, the scour depth reaches a plateau of 1.1 times the cylinder diameter when the dimensionless sagging velocity is smaller than 0.094. For sagging spheres, the maximum scour depth reaches 0.37 times the sphere diameter when the dimensionless sagging velocity is reduced to 0.0103. The findings provide guidelines for future research on more complicated interactions between flow, solid objects, and the seabed, accounting for the deformation of infrastructure over time. Practical Applications: This paper concerns the flow, sediment transport, and scour around horizontal cylinders and spheres undergoing slow downward motion, which resembles the sagging of on-bottom infrastructure under the influence of gravity and bed erosion. Offshore structures are deployed extensively to harvest marine resources. Pipelines and cables are critical subsea infrastructures that are susceptible to scour-induced failure. Spherical objects are commonplace in the offshore industry, so a sphere can be deemed as an idealized three-dimensional body. This paper provides detailed FLOW-3D simulations and developed empirical relationships between the dimensionless scour depth and dimensionless sagging speed. Most previous research considered only the scour around fixed objects, so this paper provides a novel addition to the existing knowledge on the scour phenomenon. The computational methods established in this study are useful for simulating more-complicated scenarios. The findings provide guidelines for more-realistic predictions of scour and for the design of scour mitigation measures. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

To maintain a reasonable sediment regulation system in the Loess Plateau, it is critical to determine the effects of check dam construction on sediment production and topographic changes. An indoor simulation experiment was conducted to investigate sediment production at the outlet section of the gully and micro‐topographic changes within the channel before and after dam construction. The results showed that check dam significantly affected the run‐off and sediment transport processes in the watershed. Specifically, the cross‐sectional morphology index (η) and the width‐depth ratio increased by 10.23% and 40.44%, respectively, while sediment content and particle size decreased by 39.29% and 18.58%, respectively. Additionally, the relative importance of section parameters and micro‐topographic parameters that affect sediment production rate and particle size was ranked using the random forest algorithm. The roughness after check dam construction was identified as a relatively important topographic factor affecting sediment production and particle selection by erosion. These findings provide valuable information for future check dam construction and development in the Loess Plateau region. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The Changjiang Estuary and Hangzhou Bay system has experienced river damming and estuarine engineering in the last decades. However, few studies focused on the shifts in its sediment dynamics due to such human activities. In this study multi-decadal development of sediment dynamics in the transitional zone of the two large estuaries was analyzed, based on the synchronous hydrographic data in the winter of 2023, 2014 and 1983. The results revealed significant changes in regional hydrodynamics and suspended sediment transport, despite the continuous good correlations between the current velocity, suspended sediment concentration (SSC), water/sediment fluxes and tidal range. Specifically, the current velocity has been decreased by 8 - 21% after 2014, mainly due to the land reclamation (implemented around 2016) with several groins stretching into deep water and altering alongshore hydrodynamics. The SSC has decreased further by 29 - 38% in addition to the significant decrease during 1983 - 2014. The SSC changes are related to the combination of river damming which induced sediment load reduction and land reclamation which enclosed a large amount of sediment. Furthermore, the sediment transport from Changjiang Estuary to Hangzhou Bay decreased by 36% - 53%, explaining the observed bed erosion in the northern bay mouth in recent years. The findings are also relevant for studies on sediment dynamics in other large estuaries worldwide. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Marine turbines have been extensively utilized to harness tidal stream energy from free-flowing tides and currents. However, the assessment of the influences of these marine structures on the surrounding environment is still in its early stage. In this study, a numerical model that couples hydrodynamics and sediment transport is developed to simulate the scour processes around a monopile-supported horizontal axial tidal stream turbine under steady currents. The flow characteristics are calculated by solving the 3-D Navier-Stokes equations with the k -ω shear stress transport (SST) turbulence model for closure. The simulation of sediment bed elevation is achieved by solving the Exner equation. The turbine rotor is parameterized using the actuator line method. The developed model is validated against wake velocity and scour depth measurement obtained from previous literature, showing a good agreement. Subsequently, the effects of tip clearance on the flow characteristics around the turbine model on a rigid flatbed are examined. Finally, the scour processes of the turbine model are presented, along with the vortex system within the scour hole. The numerical model proposed in this study has the potential to contribute to the understanding of the scour mechanism of the tidal stream turbines. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Information about estuarine mixing and its control of sediment transport is crucial to elucidating the dynamics and evolution of estuaries. Here, the microtidal and funnel-shaped Zhenhai Estuary, located in the southwestern Pearl River Delta of China, is used to investigate the characteristics and mechanisms of water mixing and sediment transport based on observations from three spring tides. The results reveal that the studied estuary remains well mixed during spring tides from 2013–2022 despite its microtidal regime. Tidal stirring, which is enhanced by tidal energy convergence and benefits from the funnel-shaped geometry and shallow bathymetry, favors vertical mixing, contributing to the formation of strong mixing in the estuary. Due to the well-mixed regime, sediment transport in the estuary is dominated by the advective term, followed by a moderate tidal pumping term and minor estuarine circulation term. Accordingly, sediments within the estuary tend to be transported landward owing to the regulation of the funnel-shaped geometry, and a gradual but slow infilling trend is predictable. This paper deepens our understanding of hydrodynamics and sediment transport in microtidal estuaries. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study aims to investigate the hydrodynamic-morphological interactions on a microtidal intermediate-dissipative beach under low to moderate wave energy conditions using field measurements during two climatic seasons. The separate contributions of currents, sea-swell waves, and infragravity waves to high- and low-frequency sediment fluxes were analyzed. The infragravity wave energy was more relevant near the swash zone than in other areas. Although the currents are the primary suspended sediment transport mechanism, the results suggest that the waves are an important driver of sediment suspension from the seabed. The results indicate that Sea-Swell (SS) waves and cross-shore currents are the prevailing hydrodynamic factors in nearshore sediment transport, and the cross-shore suspended sediment transport rates are higher than those in alongshore transport. The submerged bar intensified during the wet season (1–4 November 2018) when the wave height intensities were lower, contrary to the dry season (24–25 March 2018). Significant accretion nearshore was identified (in the subaerial beach) during the wet season when the suspended sediments were greater, the SS-wave heights nearshore were lower, and sediment flux was directed onshore. A notorious erosion was distinguished during the dry season. The most representative volume changes occurred during the dry season (with high erosion), which is attributed to the high SS-wave energy. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Bottom trawling in submarine canyons can affect their sedimentary dynamics, but studies addressing this topic are still scarce. In the Gulf of Palermo (NW Sicily, SW Mediterranean Sea), bottom trawling occurs on the continental slope, but principally concentrates within Oreto Canyon. Hydrographic profiles and time series data of temperature, turbidity, and currents obtained by a CTD probe and by moored instruments, respectively, revealed increased turbidity values and the presence of bottom and intermediate nepheloid layers coinciding with periods of bottom trawling activity. The delay between the onset of trawling activities along the Oreto canyon axis and the increase in water turbidity at the mooring location indicate that trawling resuspended particles are progressively advected down-canyon by hydrodynamic processes. Topographic waves and near-inertial currents seem to contribute to the sediment transport of resuspended particles as bottom and intermediate nepheloid layers. Results presented in this paper highlight the complex relationship between hydrodynamic processes and sediment resuspension by trawling in submarine canyons. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal erosion poses significant challenges to shoreline management, exacerbated by rising sea levels and changing climate patterns. This study investigates the influence of gap spacing between semicircular coastal defence structures on shoreline dynamics during storm events. The innovative design of these structures aims to induce a drift reversal of prevalent sediment transport while avoiding interruption of alongshore sediment drift, thus protecting the beach. Three different gap spacings, ranging from 152 m to 304 m, were analysed using the XBeach numerical model, focusing on storm morphodynamic behaviour. Methodologically, hydrodynamic and morphodynamic analyses were conducted to understand variations in significant wave heights adjacent to the structures, in accretion and erosion volumes, and changes in bed level under storm conditions. The study aims to elucidate the complex interaction between engineered coastal protection solutions and natural coastal processes, providing practical insights for coastal management practices. Results indicate that installing semicircular coastal defence structures influences sediment dynamics during storm events, effectively protecting stretches of the coast at risk. Optimal gap spacing between structures is crucial to mitigating coastal erosion and enhancing sediment accumulation, offering a sustainable shoreline protection approach. The findings underscore the importance of balanced location selection to optimize protection benefits while minimizing adverse morphological effects. Overall, this research contributes to advancing knowledge of hydro-morphological phenomena essential for effective coastal engineering and informs the design and implementation of more sustainable coastal protection strategies in the face of increasing coastal erosion and sea level rise challenges. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The Philippines has dynamically active coastal areas where sediment transport is a matter of concern due to its environmental implications, one of which is coastal erosion. Local studies have used seasonal beach profiling, shoreline tracing, and bathymetric analysis to provide relevant information on possible causes, trends, and adaptation strategies to address coastal erosion, but studies using numerical modelling of morphological dynamics are limited despite its capability to quantify different processes that is essential when an engineering intervention is necessary. This study uses numerical modelling in assessing coastal erosion and aims to model the hydrodynamics, waves, sediment transport and morphological dynamics of the study area using Delft3D. A 3-dimensional, coupled FLOW and WAVE model was set-up and calibrated to assess the transport of sediments and morphological dynamics in Ibajay, Aklan, one of the areas tagged as experiencing coastal erosion due to the presence of identifying physical features. The model was calibrated by comparing simulation results with measured time-series water level, bottom velocity, and wave parameters obtained from field surveys. Good agreement with measured parameters was observed after calibration, with root-mean-square-error of less than 10% of range of observed values at an observation point located 100 m off the coast at a depth of 8 m. The calibrated model was run for one year under prevailing (non-extreme) wind and wave conditions. Results showed two transport patterns caused by breaking of waves and strong currents near the lateral boundaries. It was determined that the shore is accreting with some erosion observed on the lateral boundaries caused by tidal asymmetry. Dry season months from November to April exhibited more active cross-shore transport due to intensifying of waves brought by the northeast monsoon while recovery of sand was observed during calmer conditions the rest of the year. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The present work concerns the interaction between hydraulic processes and biological communities in rivers. In particular, the aim of this study is to investigate the interactions between flow dynamics and the freshwater mussels (FMs) to verify if the mussels' behavioural response to the hydrodynamic stress could be used to monitor natural extreme events in rivers. Although the influence of mussels on the kinematic characteristics of flow at the water–sediment interface was investigated by a certain number of studies, their behavioural response to flow, both in static and dynamic conditions, remains understudied. Laboratory experiments were performed in an artificial flume exposing Unio elongatulus to different values of flow discharge, both in steady and in unsteady conditions either with or without sediment transport. Mussels' behavioural responses were detected by using Hall sensor technology to measure gaping frequency, amplitude and duration, both in static conditions and under the effect of hydrodynamic stresses. Five categories of behavioural response were identified: Normal Activity (NA), Resting (Re), Transition (Tr), Adaptation (Ad) and Avoidance (Av). During NA (standard feeding and moving), FMs presented valve gaping, while during Re valves were kept constantly opened for water filtration. After a variation of flow discharge (ΔQ), FMs promptly reacted showing a transition from their normal behaviour, with constant gaping frequency (below 0.01 Hz), to higher valve gaping frequencies. The mean valves' gaping frequency increased as a function of ΔQ, and the highest values were reached in the presence of sediment transport. The mean valve opening amplitude was less sensitive to ΔQ. Its range of variation was very narrow with the highest values corresponding to the protrusion/retraction of the animals' foot to move or anchor to the substrate. The percentage of mussels responding to the discharge variation (Transition behaviour) increases with ΔQ confirming that mussels' behavioural response represents a promising tool for monitoring the occurrence of hydrodynamic stressors in fluvial systems. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

AlMashan, N.; Al-Attar, I., and Neelamani, S., 2024. Assessment of annual sedimentation into Failaka Marina (Kuwait) and possible solutions for reduction of siltation. Journal of Coastal Research, 40(3), 527–553. Charlotte (North Carolina), ISSN 0749-0208. Sedimentation is critical for ports, harbors, and marinas, requiring accurate assessment. Failaka Marina in Kuwait is experiencing a severe noncohesive sedimentation problem. The samples collected at the seven locations along the beach showed that the beach has a uniform grain-size diameter, meaning it is poorly graded sand. The sampling at the tip of the southern breakwater showed that the shoaling is mainly sand. The suspended-sediment concentration varies from 0.025 kg m–3 to 1.2 kg m–3, whereas the mean concentration at the marina entrance is 0.85 kg m–3. The time series of the suspended solids over a year in the seawater surrounding Failaka Island shows a range of 8 to 48,069 ppm. Such a considerable variation in suspended load is due to the massive amounts of dredging and spoil disposal at Boubyan Island and Basra Port (Iraq) when a high sediment load moves around Failaka Island with a concentration of more than 40,000 mg L–1. Annual sedimentation is about 2.35 m y–1, which is responsible for blocking the main entrance for navigation. Kuwait's Ministry of Communication allocates $4 to $6 million annually for dredging and disposal activities. This study evaluates the six marina entrance modification scenarios to determine the best scenario that achieves a measurable reduction in sedimentation rate in the Marina. Six marina breakwater modifications were studied, and annual sedimentation rates were numerically computed. The study use Coupled MIKE 21/3 to simulate hydrodynamic conditions for cohesive sediment transport in a problem area. Field data from 2015 calibrated and validated the model. The primary sediment-moving force is SE wind and sea-swell waves. Littoral drift along Failaka Island's southern coastline and high suspended-sediment concentration result in littoral drift and settling. The best scenario showed a 28% sedimentation reduction and a 26% reduction in maintenance dredging costs from the six studied scenarios. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) is a meshless, particle-based approach that has been increasingly applied for modelling of various fluid-flow phenomena. Concerning multiphase flow computations, an advantage of the Lagrangian SPH over Eulerian approaches is that the advection step is straightforward. Consequently, the interphasial surface can be explicitly determined from the positions of particles representing different phases; therefore, there is no need for the interface reconstruction step. In this review paper, we briefly recall the basics of the SPH approach, and in particular the physical modelling and numerical implementation issues. We also mention the weaknesses of the approach and some remedies to overcome them. Then, we demonstrate the applicability of SPH to selected interfacial flow cases, including the liquid column break-up, gas–liquid flow regimes in a channel capturing the transitions between them and the wetting phenomena. Concerning the two-fluid modelling, it is illustrated with sediment transport in the presence of surface waves. Various other applications are briefly recalled from the rich and growing literature on the subject, followed by a tentative list of challenges in multiphase SPH. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Sediment deposition at the bottom of artificial reservoirs has become a worldwide problem. This comprises a dual issue that is, in the first place, associated with the reduction in storage capacity and lifetime of large reservoirs. The second aspect comprises the threat that the sediment represents for the dam structure. This research is mainly aimed at identifying and inferring the main sediments' triggering processes through a rigorous analysis of deposition shapes in a large reservoir. For identifying the main deposition shapes, a sequential methodology was designed and developed comprising the following stages. First, an analysis of XYZ cartography from bathymetric development was conducted. Then, a shapes categorization was developed that comprises the identification of six types of shapes based on four parameters: slope continuity, slope break, absolute and relative slope, and arc configuration. The third stage comprised a visualization and spatial calculation of shapes through GIS-based cartography. The fourth stage comprised an interpretation of deposition shapes processes: for that, a dual analysis was developed. First, an analysis based on fluvial sediments transport processes was realized. The second stage implied an analysis of the dam influence on fluvial hydrodynamics and sediments transport. Results comprised a quantitative assessment of each shape as well as physical processes identification and interpretation, generating a robust equivalence between shapes and triggering processes. This research proved successful for the identification and characterization of the main deposition and transport processes that may help to prevent, palliate, and/or correct phenomenon of silting in large reservoirs. This detailed knowledge of deposition forms opens new strategies to release sediments from storage water more effectively. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Shorelines face growing threats due to climate change and diminishing sand supply. Coastal headlands, common rocky features along coastlines, are crucial in shaping hydrodynamics and sediment transport. Yet, the influence of future climate conditions, including sea‐level rise (SLR) and intensified storm energy on complex shorelines with headlands has remained relatively unexplored. In this study, we model changes in hydrodynamics and headland bypassing under different SLR and higher storm wave scenarios. Our findings reveal the formation of circulation cells on both sides of a headland, where wave energy converges around the headland zone. Future climate conditions result in larger storm waves on the beach. However, SLR enhances nearshore currents through a landward shifting of the circulation cells, while higher storm waves intensify offshore flow currents due to the seaward movement of the cells. This effect, in turn, increases the potential for headland sediment bypassing. Plain Language Summary: Coastal headlands, prominent rocky features along open coastlines, play a crucial role in protecting nearby beaches from strong waves and erosion. They also affect how sand is exchanged between different beaches. We use a model to explore how future climate conditions including sea‐level rise (SLR) and larger storm waves influence coastal waves, littoral currents, and the transport of sand around headlands. Our findings reveal that headlands converge wave energy forming circulation flow cells. SLR results in stronger nearshore currents, driven by the landward movement of the rotating flow cells. In contrast, larger storm waves can move the rotating flow cells seaward, thereby increasing offshore current strength and the potential for sand transport around the headland. Understanding how coastal waves, flow and sediment transport change under future climate conditions will help determine coastal resilience. Key Points: The formation of circulation cells and wave energy convergence around headlands during storms reduce bottom shear stress at the beachSea‐level rise increases wave heights, currents, and bed shear stress in the nearshore because of landward shifting of the circulation cellsHigher storm waves expand the surf zone, shift circulation cells seaward, and enhance potential headland sediment bypassing [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study, the large eddy simulation (LES) under the Eulerian method is used to solve the Navier-Stokes equations for turbulent flow simulation. The Lagrangian point-particle model is applied to track particle trajectories and to calculate the forces exerted by the flow on the particles, and the particle–wall and particle–particle collisions are also accounted for. Nine simulations cases were carried out along the line of previous experiments that considered different bedform regimes, namely, ripples and dunes. The resulting bedload intensity parameter and the simulated bedforms for all the cases agree with the results obtained from the existing classical formulas. The three-dimensionality of sediment transport randomly occurs due to the turbulent flow. Coherent structures are formed as the near-bed low-speed fluid streaks entrain into the mainstream over the stoss-side of the ripples, and the high-speed fluid streaks from the mainstream rush toward the bed over the leeside. As a result, kolk–boil and hairpin vortices develop nearby. Ejection and sweep prevail near the bed, where the particles transport. The phenomenon disappears as the flow intensity increases. The presence of bedload particles also modifies the propagation angle and range of velocity fluctuation, especially in the streamwise direction. To conclude, a logistic regression formula for bedload intensity parameters, accounting for the fluid rotation, deformation, and translation terms that signify the fluid vortical motions, is obtained. It reveals that as long as these three terms are accurately quantified, the bed shear stress and bedload transport rate can be effectively estimated. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The new navigation channel for large vessels entering the Hau River through the Kenh Tat and Quan Chanh Bo channels was announced in January 2016. The navigation channel route through Dinh An estuary in Soc Trang province to Can Tho port was not deeply concerned by the agency because of the sedimentation phenomenon, which was very serious and complicated. Only small vessels of 1,000-2,000 DWT can pass through the Dinh An estuary navigation channel, whereas large vessels pass through the Kenh Tat and Quan Chanh Bo channels. However, the new navigation channel entering the Hau River is also seriously sedimented, especially in the Cua Dai An area, where the tributary route starts from the Hau River through the Quan Chanh Bo channel and the estuary area in the Duyen Hai harbor basin. These are two important bottlenecks that drastically reduce the throughput capacity of this new navigation channel. This paper proposed five options for the spatial arrangement of works to stabilize and protect the channel through the Dinh An estuary. A MIKE 21 couple mode was used to simulate hydrodynamic and sediment transport in the study area, and the impact of these options on the characteristics, including water level, flow velocity, and bottom topographic change, was analyzed and evaluated. Based on these results, an optimal solution was suggested. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The shallow-water and multilayer hydrostatic models have been commonly used to analyze the problems of a sediment-laden, plane open-channel flow. The models are adequate to solve a quasi-hydrostatic flow problem, but their accuracy deteriorates as the e ects of the vertical acceleration gain in significance. Herein, a higher-order numerical model for treating the problems of unsteady, plane open-channel flow over a movable bed is proposed. In this model, the flow hydrodynamics is governed by the depth-averaged Boussinesq-type equations, and the bed morphodynamics is determined by an Exner-type equation and additional equations describing the non-equilibrium transports of suspended load and bed load. A hybrid finite-volume and finite-di erence scheme was used to discretize and solve the governing equations, yielding solutions that are in satisfactory agreement with the experimental data. Overall, the results of the proposed model for the temporal free-surface profile and bed evolution were fairly adequate. For the two particular cases considered, however, the quality of its results was moderately a ected by the e ects of the three-dimensional characteristics of the dam-break flow and the sliding of the dike body due to sub-surface flow. The results of this investigation highlight the importance of including a higher-order Boussinesq-type correction for refining sediment transport computations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A seasonal variability in flow and sediment flux at the Socheongcho Ocean Research Station (SORS) on the west coast of Korea in 2018 was investigated to elucidate the formation of a two-layered flow structure and changes in sediment transport during stratification. An analysis of SORS data revealed stable temperatures (5–10 °C) in deeper waters, while surface temperatures rose from 6 °C in April to a peak of 30 °C in late August, gradually declining and leading to full water column mixing by late November. This temperature variation induced stratification, influencing the development of a two-layered flow structure. In winter, a singular flow structure was observed, contrasting with the emergence of a two-layered structure as stratification progressed. In the surface layer, residual currents flowed northward in summer and southward in winter, consistent with previous studies. In deeper layers, a southward residual current persisted, irrespective of the season. Sediment flux consistently moved southward, regardless of the season or water depth, with notably higher cumulative sediment flux in the deeper layer (1300 kg·m−2s−1) compared to the surface layer (300 kg·m−2s−1). These findings diverge notably from previous studies, providing new insights into ocean currents and material transport in the Yellow Sea. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Erosive beach scarps influence beach vulnerability, yet their formation remains challenging to predict. In this study, a 1:2.5 scale laboratory experiment was used to study the subsurface hydrodynamics of a beach dune during an erosive event. Pressure and moisture sensors buried within the dune were used both to monitor the water table and to examine vertical pressure gradients in the upper 0.3 m of sand as the slope of the upper beach developed into a scarp. Concurrently, a line‐scan lidar tracked swash bores and monitored erosion and accretion patterns along a single cross‐shore transect throughout the experiment. As wave conditions intensified, a discontinuity in the slope of the dune formed; the discontinuity grew steeper and progressed landward at the same rate as the R2% runup extent until it was a fully formed scarp with a vertical face. Within the upper 0.15 m of the partially saturated sand, upward pore pressure gradients were detected during backwash, influencing the effective weight of sand and potentially contributing to beachface erosion. The magnitude and frequency of the upward pressure gradients increased with deeper swash depths and with frequency of wave interaction, and decreased with depth into the sand. A simple conceptual model for scarp formation is proposed that incorporates observations of upward‐directed pressure gradients from this study while providing a reference for future studies seeking to integrate additional swash zone sediment transport processes that may impact scarp development. Plain Language Summary: Dunes are important protective features of many sandy coasts around the world. Often, when dune erosion occurs, steep faces known as scarps form. Scarps can erode landward quickly, and it is therefore useful to understand when and where they might form. Here, a large‐scale laboratory experiment was used to study the processes involved in the erosion of a dune. The water pressure and moisture content within the dune sediments, and the runup extent and changing elevation of the sand were observed simultaneously. During the experiment, a scarp developed as the wave heights, periods, and water levels increased. As waves passed over the sand surface, the water pressure within the sand changed rapidly, sometimes causing differences (gradients) in pressure between sand at different depths. If the pressure gradients became high enough and were directed upwards, they put an upward force on the sand grains, potentially making them prone to erosion. Upward‐directed pressure gradients were observed as wave conditions grew more energetic. To show how the processes observed in this study may have contributed to the formation of the scarp in the experiment, a conceptual model of scarp formation is proposed. Key Points: A 1:2.5 scale laboratory experiment was used to study the subsurface hydrodynamics of a beach dune during an erosive eventDestabilizing pressure gradients were identified within the sand surface, and were impacted by swash conditions and depth within the sandA conceptual model for scarp formation is proposed that incorporates observations from this study and could guide future work [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

River mouths are dynamic systems that can respond rapidly to both fluxes in fluvial water and sediment discharge and marine energy conditions, notably waves. On semi-arid wave-exposed coasts, the morphosedimentary behaviour of river mouths is particularly sensitive to variations in water discharge, which can be significantly influenced by climate variations, in addition to anthropogenic actions such as the construction of dams for water resource needs. In this climatic setting, an increasingly common consequence of decreasing river water discharge is the more or less prolonged closure of river mouths. Most studies have addressed river-mouth closure using analytical, parametric, numerical, or statistical models. The present study uses output from four numerical models to elucidate the hydrodynamic and sedimentary behaviour of the mouth of the Oum-Errabia River (catchment size: 35,000 km2), which debouches on the Atlantic coast of Morocco. The historical evolution of the river mouth and the impact of human interventions, such as the construction of dams, are discussed. The study also briefly discusses the impact of the recent closure of the river outlet, in response to particularly low water discharge, on the marine ecosystem and water quality. The modelling results covering a one-year simulation in this situation of closure indicate a deposition of 427,400 m3 of sediment in front of the mouth of the Oum-Errabia. Ensuring permanent river-mouth opening and tidal flushing and renewal of this river's estuarine waters will necessitate costly regular dredging. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The ecology of the aquatic environment in Poyang Lake, the largest fresh lake in China, is notably impacted by the backflow from the Yangtze River, which conveys a high flux of sediments. This study employs a widely recognized numerical model to replicate the backflow in 2007 (the strongest backflow after the operation initiation of the Three Gorges Dam) to investigate the contributions of wind and backflow to the sediment transport process. The results show that the influences of wind and backflow on flow patterns and sediment transport processes have significant spatial heterogeneity. In the narrow waterway leading to the central lake area, hydrodynamics is mainly driven by backflow. Conversely, the hydrodynamics of the open expanse of the lake is primarily influenced by wind forces. Dominant wind leads to the formation of gyres, which significantly alter flow paths and push sediment into the upstream areas. As a result, the suspended sediment area expands at an average rate of 20.1-21.3 km² daily, marking a 75-85% surge compared to the no wind condition (11.5 km2). The study facilitates a deeper understanding of sediment transport processes in large lakes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Offshore anthropogenic activities such as the installation of Offshore Renewable Energy (ORE) developments and sediment extraction for marine aggregates have been shown to disrupt current flow, wave propagation, and sediment transport pathways, leading to potential environmental instability. Due to the complexity of the interconnected sediment transport pathways in the south-western Irish Sea combined with an increase in planned anthropogenic activities, the assessment of this risk is imperative for the development of a robust marine spatial plan. Subsequently, this study uses two-dimensional morphological modelling to build upon previous studies to assess the dependency of Arklow Bank's local sediment transport regime on external sediment sources. Additionally, scenario modelling is used to identify vulnerable areas of this offshore linear sand bank to wind and wave-forcing and to examine the nature of this impact. A sediment budget is estimated for Arklow Bank, whereby seven source and nine sink pathways are identified. New evidence to support the exchange of sediment between offshore sand banks and offshore independent sand wave fields is also provided. The areas of the bank most vulnerable to changes in external sediment sources and the addition of wind- and wave-induced flow are analogous. These high vulnerability zones (HVZs) align with regions of residual cross-flow under pure current conditions. The restriction of sediment sources off the southern extent of Arklow Bank impacts erosion and accretion patterns in the mid- and northern sections of the bank after just one lunar month of simulation. Where tidal current is the primary driver of sand bank morphodynamics, wind- and wave-induced flow is shown to temporarily alter sediment distribution patterns. Wind and wave-induced flow can both accelerate and decelerate the east-west fluctuation of the upper slopes of the bank, yet the nature of this impact is inconsistent due to the misalignment of the directionality of these two forces. The methods and new knowledge derived from this study are directly applicable to tidally-dominated environments outside the Irish Sea. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The Bouregreg valley, located on the Atlantic coast of Morocco, has been subject to several anthropogenic and natural impacts that disturb the proper functioning of the estuary's ecosystem. Important dredging operations influenced by both tides and freshwater inflows have created a significant variation of estuary's morphology characterized by a sand bar developed at the mouth. The main objective of this study is to investigate the Morphodynamic processes of the estuary and in particular the impact of dredging operations using a two-dimensional horizontal numerical (2DH) modeling approach based on the shallow water equations. Several numerical tests have been carried out to calibrate the model and to investigate the hydrodynamic and morphological aspects of the estuary. For this technical solution, the modelling simulations show that in addition to the quantities of sand that will be dredged initially, the maintenance of the channel will facilitate a better water circulation between the Bouregreg valley and the Atlantic Ocean and improve the stability of the civil engineering structures and the neighbouring monuments. In addition, this water circulation will guide the river flow in the ebb phase of the tide. The model results show a reduction of about 30% in the impact of erosion, observed before the digging of the canal. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The three-dimensional liquid–sediment system of a coastline was investigated using experimental and numerical approaches. A scaled-down model of the coastline was numerically studied using smooth particle hydrodynamics (SPH). The flow dynamics and the impacts of the wave frequency and the seaward slope angle on the breaking wave characteristics of the two-phase liquid–sediment interaction were parametrically studied. A particle image velocimetry (PIV) experiment was conducted to validate the SPH predictions. It was found that the flow profiles obtained by the PIV and SPH are in good agreement both qualitatively and quantitatively. The maximum velocity of the fluid flow was recorded as 0.5623 m/s in the SPH simulation, but as 0.5860 m/s in the PIV experimental, with a percentage difference of 4.21%. Subsequently, it was found that the breaking wave characteristic is surging at the wave frequency range of f < 0.15 Hz, plunging at 0.15 < f < 0.55 Hz, and spilling at 0.55 < f ≤ 1.0 Hz. It was also established that at a particular Froude number, it is observed that spilling, plunging, and surging wave breakers are produced at low, mid, and high seaward slope angles, respectively. Meanwhile, increasing the Froude number increases the tendency to produce spilling or plugging breaking waves, irrespective of the slope angle. Ultimately, this study has demonstrated the presented methodology's usefulness in investigating coastlines' liquid–sediment interaction properties. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Systematical downslope‐turbidity‐current experiments were performed to clarify the relationship between sediment‐transport modes and current propagation patterns caused by rigid vegetation, as well as adjustments in turbulence characteristics of current. The equations for predicting the front velocities of downslope turbidity currents with emergent vegetation were proposed and validated via experimental data. Experimental results reveal that sediment deposition causes the lower turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) peaks of turbidity currents to decrease or even disappear without affecting their upper TKE peaks, while the rigid vegetation has the opposite effect. Vegetation stems destroy the longitudinal low‐high speed streaks associated with the quasi‐streamwise eddies in the near‐bed region and increase the proportions of the outward and inward interactions. In addition, sediment deposition severely suppresses the turbulent bursting events within turbidity currents but does not influence the relative proportions of the four bursting types. Rigid vegetation and sediment deposition both degrade the absolute values of the third‐order moments of velocity fluctuations without changing their signs to reduce the generation frequency of sweep events. Emergent rigid vegetation accelerates the formation of the reflected bore to provide energy for the deposited sediment to move downstream continuously. On the other hand, the dense submerged vegetation makes turbidity currents easily form the two‐head propagating mode, which allows part of the sediments carried by the upper current head to be transported downstream rather than deposited within or upstream of the vegetation region. Furthermore, the sloping boundary provides favorable conditions to initiate these specific modes for sediment transport adjusted by rigid vegetation. Key Points: Equations are developed and validated to predict the front velocities of turbidity currents flowing slopes with emergent rigid vegetationRigid vegetation and sediment gradation are key factors in controlling the turbulence characteristics of downslope turbidity currentsRigid vegetation distinctly changes the sediment‐transport modes of downslope turbidity currents by adjusting their propagation patterns [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In the development of water resources projects with large hydraulic infrastructures, alterations to the natural flow regime will increase the erosive processes on the discharge structures due to variability of the turbulent velocities and the particle transport. We analyzed the case of the Mazar dam, a project designed to regulate the solid and liquid flows that come from the Paute river basin. Erosive processes of great magnitude are generated in the stilling basin of Mazar dam, due to the intensity of turbulent velocities produced in extreme events. We applied the Delft3D numerical model to simulate the hydrodynamic and sediment transport conditions to evaluate the stability conditions of the Mazar dam stilling basin. With the results obtained, vulnerable zones have been identified in the stilling basin. We recommended mitigation measures with the installation of a geomembrane to reduce the erosive processes in the vulnerable zones. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

An advanced coupling between a three-dimensional ocean circulation model (CROCO) and a spectral wave model (WAVEWATCH-III) is presented to better represent wave-current interactions in coastal areas. In the previous implementation of the coupled interface between these two models, some of the wave-induced terms in the ocean dynamic equations were computed from their monochromatic approximations (e.g., Stokes drift, Bernoulli head, near-bottom wave orbital velocity, wave-to-ocean energy flux). In the present study the exchanges of these fields computed from the spectral wave model are implemented and evaluated. A set of numerical experiments for a coastal configuration of the circulation near the Bay of Somme (France) is designed. The impact of the spectral versus monochromatic computation of wave-induced terms significantly affects the hydrodynamics at coastal scale in the case of storm waves and winds opposed to tidal flows, reducing the wave-induced deceleration of the vertical profile of tidal currents. This new implementation provides current magnitudes closer to measurements than those predicted using their monochromatic formulations, particularly at the free surface. The spectral surface Stokes drift and the near-bottom wave orbital velocity are found to be the most impacting spectral fields, respectively increasing advection towards the free surface and shifting the profile close to the seabed. In the particular case of the Bay of Somme, the approximation of these spectral terms with their monochromatic counterparts ultimately results in an underestimation of ocean surface currents. Our model developments thus provide a better description of the competing effects of tides, winds, and waves on the circulation of coastal seas with implications to the study of air-sea interactions and sediment transport processes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The study of the characteristics of fine-grained and cohesive sediments due to its filling characteristics in harbors and ports is an important subject in coastal studies. Fine-grained cohesive sediments have special complicated characteristics as compared to other sediments regarding their behavior. Hence, numerous research works have been carried out to establish well validated physical and mathematical descriptions of the behavior and outcome of concentrated near-bed cohesive sediment suspensions and their interaction with the water column and the bed as well as the turbulence characteristics of sediment laden flow. A two-dimensional model is developed in this study that includes: a cohesive sediment simulator module, processes such as advection and diffusion of cohesive sediment, flocculation and its effect on the settling velocity of cohesive sediment particles, consolidation of bed layers and sediment transport between layers, substrate shear stress variations affecting the simultaneous presence of wave and flow, bed morphology, deposition and erosion. In all these processes, the depth is considered according to the actual topography of the bed. For verification of model performance the model results have been compared with the MIKE 21 model results against the field data reported during the construction phase and at the simulation stage of Ho Bay, a case study presented by DHI (MIKE, 15). The comparisons indicate a favorable accuracy of the present model performance in simulation of cohesive sediment transport. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The relative impacts of changes in the storage capacity of a reservoir are strongly influenced by its hydrodynamics. This study focused mainly on predicting the flow velocities and assessing the effectiveness of groynes as control mitigation structures in changes in the water depth and velocity distributions in Ringlet Reservoir. Initially, the physical model of the Habu River (the main part of Ringlet Reservoir) was fabricated, and flow velocities were measured. Then, a two-dimensional HEC-RAS was adapted to numerically simulate the hydrodynamics of the annual recurrence intervals of 1, 5, and 100 years in the Ringlet Reservoir. Experimental data acquired at the Hydraulic and Instrumentation Laboratory of the National Water Research Institute of Malaysia (NAHRIM) was used to calibrate and validate the numerical models. The comparison of simulation and experimental results revealed that the water levels in all simulations were consistent. As for the velocity, the results show a comparable trend but with a slight variation of results compared to the experiments due to a few restrictions found in both simulations. These simulation results are deemed significant in predicting future sediment transport control based on hydrodynamics in this reservoir and can be of future reference. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Tidal-inlet systems are dynamic features that respond to short-term (e.g., storms) and longer-term processes (e.g., sea-level rise, changes in tidal prism). The Chincoteague Inlet system, located along the northern Eastern Shore of Virginia (USA), is a dynamic coastal complex that experiences rapid change associated with sediment redistribution and a shifting inlet throat due to the southern elongation of adjacent Assateague Island. In this study, a numerical model based on Delft3D with coupled flow–waves, multiclass sediment transport, and morphologic feedback was developed to quantify the hydrodynamic and geomorphic controls within this rapidly evolving inlet–spit system and to develop a more comprehensive understanding of regional to local controls on sediment-transport pathways. Model results show that most of the sand transport along southern Assateague Island is sequestered nearshore and proximally in deeper sinks within Fishing Point, and, of that, only finer sand sizes are transported around the spit, confirming previous analysis and hypothesis. The model also showed that sand transport toward the south increases along Wallops Island and quantified spatially explicit transport trends for selected sediment classes, revealing that coarser sediment bypassing is a punctuated process that is proportional to storms. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The geomorphological stability and ecological environment of megadeltas worldwide are of vital importance for their sustainable development. Deltaic hydro-morphodynamics is extremely sensitive to high riverine flow due to reduced sediment supply. However, the morphological evolution and response of deltas under high riverine flow have remained inadequately quantified. As one of the typical megadeltas, the Yellow River Delta (YRD), is becoming increasingly sensitive to environmental changes and intensified human interventions. In this study, a numerical model and field data were used to investigate the hydrodynamic changes and morphodynamic evolution induced by extreme river discharge in the YRD. The numerical experiments with different runoff scenarios reveal that high-energy riverine floods can cause significant hydrodynamic changes in bed shear stresses, water levels, and flow velocities, particularly in the abandoned river mouth. Moreover, it enhances the ebb-dominated tidal asymmetry, which considerably intensifies fluvial sediment resuspension and transport processes. The results also show high-energy riverine floods in the flood seasons trigger severe erosion in the Yellow River submerged delta, with a net erosion volume reaching −0.07 × 108 m3/year. The hydrodynamic increment in the abandoned river mouth is more significant, and therefore, severe erosion occurs, with the maximum erosion thickness reaching 7 m. These findings highlight the role of high riverine floods on the hydro-sediment dynamics of large river deltas under a sediment starvation condition. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Estuaries along the Amazonian coast are subjected to both a macrotidal regime and seasonally high fluvial discharge, both of which generate complex circulation. Furthermore, the Amazon River Plume (ARP) influences coastal circulation and suspended sediment concentrations (SSCs). The Gurupi estuary, located south of the mouth of the Amazon River, is relatively unstudied. This study evaluates how the Gurupi estuary dynamics respond to seasonal discharge and the varying influence of the ARP using cross-sectional and longitudinal surveys of morphology, hydrodynamics, and sediment transport. The Gurupi was classified as a tide-dominated estuary based on morphology and mean hydrodynamic conditions. However, the estuary was only partially mixed during both the wet and dry seasons. The tides propagated asymmetrically and hypersynchronously, with flood dominance during the dry season and ebb dominance during the rainy season. Seasonal variations of the ARP did not significantly affect the hydrodynamic structure of the lower Gurupi estuary. Estuarine turbidity maxima (ETM) were observed in both seasons, although the increase in fluvial discharge during the wet season attenuated and shifted the ETM seaward. Little sediment was delivered to the estuary by the river, and the SSCs were higher at the mouth in both seasons. Sediment was strongly imported during the dry season by tidal asymmetry. The morphology, hydrodynamics, and sediment dynamics all highlight the importance of considering both fluvial discharge and coastal influences on estuaries along the Amazon coast. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A coupled nearshore hydrodynamics and sediment transport model with adjoint‐based uncertainty quantification has been applied to sand bar morphodynamics in the Duck94 field experiment (Duck, NC). The model, which is based on previously established physical process formulas, is capable of producing accurate predictions of sand bar migration during the experiment. However, reasonable perturbations to the model inputs—namely initial conditions, boundary conditions, and calibration coefficients—can produce a range of model predictions. This range is taken to represent the potential for uncertainty of the model, for scenarios where one or more model inputs are poorly constrained. Experiments are presented that quantify the relative impact of different input types on uncertainty, and the results are contrasted for accretive versus erosive wave conditions. During accretive conditions (shoreward bar migration), uncertainty is dominated by the growth of errors in initial conditions, owing to positive feedbacks in the model. In contrast, during erosive conditions (seaward bar migration), there is a smaller impact of errors in initial conditions, and uncertainty is instead dominated by errors in sediment transport coefficients. The results thus point to qualitative differences in the nature of nearshore morphodynamic uncertainty under different wave conditions, with a greater role of internal error growth (positive feedbacks) during accretive conditions and errors in model physics being more important during erosive conditions. Plain Language Summary: Sandy wave‐exposed beaches are in a constant state of change due to sediment transport by waves and wave‐driven currents. The relevant physical processes are mostly concentrated within 1–10 cm above the seabed and vary on timescales of order 0.1–10 s—these scales are several orders of magnitude smaller than those of practical interest for nearshore morphodynamics, hence simplified approximations are needed to represent subgrid‐scale physical processes. In addition, the interplay between morphology and sediment transport can trigger feedbacks, such that even small model errors may become amplified over time. Both these factors (process errors and feedbacks) are generally understood to cause considerable uncertainty in model predictions, but their relative importance is not well known. The present work quantifies effects of feedbacks and model parameters, showing their relative importance changes depending on whether the beach is accreting or eroding. By better understanding the nature of uncertainty, these results can inform future efforts into predicting nearshore coastal change at storm‐to‐seasonal timescales. Key Points: Uncertainty quantification in a nearshore morphodynamic model using an adjoint‐based approachMorphodynamic uncertainty is dominated by positive feedback during accretive conditions and by model parameter error during erosive onesNearshore sediment transport formulas are highly sensitive to uncertainties in wave hydrodynamics [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The proportional cover of rubble on reefs is predicted to increase as disturbances increase in intensity and frequency. Unstable rubble can kill coral recruits and impair binding processes that consolidate rubble into a stable substrate for coral recruitment. A clearer understanding of the mechanisms of inhibited coral recovery on rubble requires characterisation of the hydrodynamic conditions that trigger rubble mobilisation. Here, we investigated rubble mobilisation under regular wave conditions in a wave flume and irregular wave conditions in-situ on a coral reef in the Maldives. We examined how changes in near-bed wave orbital velocity influenced the likelihood of rubble motion (e.g., rocking) and transport (by walking, sliding or flipping). Rubble mobilisation was considered as a function of rubble length, branchiness (branched vs. unbranched), and underlying substrate (rubble vs. sand). Rubble was more likely to be transported if ieces were small (4-8 cm) and had no branches, and rubble travelled slightly greater distances (~2 cm) per day on substrates composed of sand than rubble. The effect of near-bed wave orbital velocity on rubble mobilisation was comparable between flume and reef observations. Rubble had a 50% and 90% chance of transport when near-bed wave orbital velocities reached 0.30 m/s and 0.43 m/s, respectively, in the wave flume, and 0.34 m/s and 0.55 m/s, respectively, on the reef. Importantly, the probability of rubble transport per day declined over 3-day deployments in the field, suggesting rubble had settled into more hydrodynamically-stable positions or snagged on the first day of deployment. We expect that settled or snagged rubble may have been mobilised more commonly in locations with higher energy and more variable wave environments. Our results show that rubble beds comprised of small rubble pieces and/or pieces with fewer branches are likely to be more unstable. Such rubble beds are likely to have shorter windows of recovery (stability) between mobilisation events, and thus be good candidates for rubble stabilisation interventions to enhance coral recruitment and binding. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study focuses on the numerical investigation of the 3D hydrodynamic processes of coastal zones such as wave breaking, wave-induced currents, and sediment transport, using the multiphase, interFoam solver of OpenFOAM® (a state-of-the-art, open-source CFD numerical tool). The numerical scheme is suitably framed by initial conditions of wave propagation and absorption using waves2Foam wave library. The turbulence closure problem is handled using a buoyancy modified k–ω SST model. In order to predict the sediment transport rate due to waves and currents (bed load, sheet flow, and suspended load over ripples), a transport-rate formula involving unsteady aspects of the sand transport phenomenon is implemented. For the suspended load in the surf zone, the Bailard formula is adopted after considering that the dissipation mechanism is the wave breaking. Results concerning wave height, longshore current, turbulence kinetic energy, and sediment transport are compared against experimental data and semi-empirical expressions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Offshore sand banks are an important resource for coastal protection, marine aggregates, and benthic habitats and are the site of many offshore wind farms. Consequently, a comprehensive understanding of the baseline processes controlling sand bank morphodynamics is imperative. This knowledge will aid the development of a long-term robust marine spatial plan and help address the environmental instability arising from anthropogenic activities. This study uses a validated, dynamically coupled, two-dimensional hydrodynamic and sediment transport model to investigate the hydrodynamic processes controlling the highly mobile upper layer of Arklow Bank, while maintaining overall long-term bank base stability. The results reveal a flood and ebb tidal current dominance on the west and east side of the bank, respectively, ultimately generating a large anticlockwise residual current eddy encompassing the entire bank. This residual current flow distributes sediment along the full length of the sand bank. The positioning of multiple off-bank anticlockwise residual current eddies on the edge of this cell is shown to influence east–west fluctuations of the upper slopes of the sand bank and act as a control on long-term stability. These off-bank eddies facilitate this type of movement when the outer flows of adjacent eddies, located on both sides of the bank, flow in a general uniform direction. Whereas they inhibit this east–west movement when the outer flows of adjacent eddies, on either side of the bank, flow in converging directions towards the bank itself. These residual eddies also facilitate sediment transport in and out of the local sediment transport system. Within Arklow Bank's morphological cell, eight morphodynamically and hydrodynamically unique bank sections or 'sub-cells' are identified, whereby a complex morphodynamic–hydrodynamic feedback loop is present. The local east–west fluctuation of the upper slopes of the bank is driven by migratory on-bank stationary and transient clockwise residual eddies and the development of 'narrow' residual current cross-flow zones. Together, these processes drive upper slope mobility but maintain long-term bank base stability. This novel understanding of sand bank morphodynamics is applicable to bedforms in tidally dominated continental shelf seas outside the Irish Sea. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The estuary delta is an area where human economic activities are active and natural ecological environment is fragile. With global change and the intensification of human activities, coastal and seabed erosion around the world is becoming more and more serious. In this paper, we used the Delft 3D numerical simulation to compare the hydrodynamic effects of sediment transport paths in the Yellow River delta (river-controlled type), Yangtze River delta (tidal type) and Mekong River delta (tidal wave type) in the East Asian monsoon area, and analyzed the causes of accumulation erosion landform distribution in three different types of subaqueous deltas. This study finds the Yellow River Delta has experienced varying degrees of erosion at the estuary, but its subaqueous delta is still dominated by deposition; the Yangtze River Delta has ensured the stability of its shoreline under the influence of artificial shoreline reinforcement, but the subaqueous delta (water depth: 0–15 m) is in a state of erosion all year round; and in the Mekong River Delta the erosion occurs in both its shoreline and subaqueous delta. Additionally, only by analyzing the erosion and deposition within the transport range of resuspended sediment, the changes in the properties of the entire subaqueous delta could be recognized. The research results can not only be helpful to analyze whether the change of river sediment will lead to the change of delta type under human influence, but also provide more powerful scientific support for the protection of delta ecological environment, geological environment safety and geological disaster prevention. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A quantitative understanding of paleotsunamis is a significant issue in tsunami sedimentology. Onshore tsunami deposits, which are geological records of tsunami inundation, are used to reconstruct paleotsunami events. Numerical models of tsunami hydrodynamics and tsunami-induced sediment transport are utilized in such reconstructions to connect tsunami deposit characteristics, flow conditions, and (paleo-) tsunami sources. Recent progress in tsunami numerical modeling has increased the possibility of developing a methodology to estimate paleotsunami sources from tsunami deposits. Several previous studies have estimated paleotsunami sources using tsunami sediment transport simulations. However, the accuracy of paleotsunami source estimation has not yet been explored. Thus, to bridge this research gap, in this study, we showed the potential and limitations of deposit-based tsunami source estimation based on the 2011 Tohoku-oki tsunami deposit data on the southernmost part of the Sendai Plain, northeastern Japan. The tsunamigenic megathrust along the Japan Trench was divided into ten subfaults having similar lengths and widths. The hypothetical source models with varying slips on each subfault were examined by comparing the depositional volume and sediment source of onshore tsunami deposits. Due to limited information on the depositional area of the tsunami deposits used in the modeling, slips only in some parts of the entire tsunami source region could be estimated. The fault slip was slightly overestimated but could be compared with previous well-constrained source models. Thus, these results indicated that vast high-quality datasets of tsunami deposits can improve the accuracy of paleotsunami source estimation. It is also suggested that the amplitude of the receding wave affects the erosion pattern from the shoreface to the nearshore area. Although sufficient data for paleotsunami source estimation are lacking, an effective combination of tsunami deposit data and sediment transport simulations potentially improves the accuracy of the source estimation. The results will contribute to developing a framework of deposit-based paleotsunami source modeling and assessing its accuracy. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study developed a high‐fidelity hydrodynamic simulation of sediment production, transport and deposition for the Great Bahama Bank. This model was run with a time‐step of 15 min for the entirety of 2016, forced by tides, off‐platform circulation and wind. Encompassed in this run are 364 days of fair‐weather conditions and two days when the passage of Category 4 Matthew brought hurricane‐force winds to the platform. This simulation therefore offers an excellent opportunity to contrast the sway of fair‐weather and storm‐weather conditions on sculpting the facies arrangement atop this 100 000 km2 shallow‐water carbonate platform. The work suggests that fair‐weather conditions are sufficient to deliver the platform's broad‐scale facies patterns. Even the lethargic currents of the platform interior can move mud (<63 μm) over 200 km from its source over the course of one year. Intense focusing of tidal currents between islands and close to the platform margin are ample to move coarse grains (>450 μm), at least locally, as is necessary to produce the vast ooid fairways for which the Great Bahama Bank is famed. Even at the height of Hurricane Matthew, average current speeds in these tidally‐dominated areas do not exceed the speeds simulated for fair‐weather conditions. Hence, the hurricane has negligible effect in these high‐energy areas. The hurricane does not have zero impact, though. For up to 110 km either side of the storm's track, winds exceeding 26 m/s induce currents that winnow mud over longer distances than delivered by fair‐weather conditions. Hence, the storm has a sedimentological signature which, albeit minor, might propagate into the depositional architecture of the platform when scaled over many storms through geological time. This work informs on the role of uniformitarianism versus catastrophism on carbonate sedimentation and casts doubt on geological interpretations of coarse‐grained storm deposits (tempestites) atop shallow‐water platforms. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Two field campaigns in Dafeng and Jianggang were organized to compare spatial variations of hydrodynamic characteristics and sediment transport patterns on intertidal flats of different types with distinct human interferences along middle Jiangsu coast, China. The major contributors to the different patterns of sediment dynamics between the two tidal flats were offshore tidal current field and human interference. Offshore tidal force provide the basic setup of tidal current patterns on tidal flats, which is then modified by local morphology. Seawalls parallel to coast reduce tidal flat width, forcing tidal energy to dissipate within a shorter distance and thus influencing tidal flat morphology. Seawalls vertical to coast and major tidal current significantly reduce tidal current speed, which favors sediment deposition on tidal flats. Two seawalls built on both sides of the observational tidal flat profile caused much reduced current speed at Dafeng tidal flat, comparing to the offshore station. Being exposed to offshore radial tidal currents, hydrodynamics at Jianggang was much stronger than that at Dafeng. Residual currents at both areas showed net landward transport at the lower flat and net seaward transport at the upper flat, in favor to sediment accumulation at the middle flat. Sediment flux over tidal cycles showed net landward sediment transport at Dafeng, and net seaward transport at Jianggang, consistent with the convex-up accretion-dominated profile observed at Dafenge, and concave-up erosion-dominated profile observed at Jianggang. The instantaneons sediment flux changed significantly due to variations in velocity and sediment concentrations, but these terms counteracted with each other within tidal cycles, leading to the dominant role of Eulerian flux in determining net sediment flux over tidal cycles. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Subsurface water flow can cause serious soil erosion on sloping farmland. Sediment transport capacity (Tc) data at different subsurface water flow depths are limited. The objective of this study was to develop a new equation that can accurately determine Tc under subsurface water flow impacts. Subsurface water flows were arranged at three depths: 15, 10, and 5 cm. Three flow discharges (2, 4, and 8 L min−1) and four slope gradients (5°, 10°, 15°, and 20°) were designed to conduct flume scouring experiments. The results indicate that flow velocity, shear stress, and unit energy with linear equations and stream power with power equations can be used to determine Tc, but those using the unit stream power perform relatively poorly under the different subsurface water flow depths. Among these parameters, the shear stress is the preferred predictor of Tc. The addition of prediction parameters, subsurface water flow depth, in response to Tc equations can improve the accuracy of Tc modeling. The power‐exponential equation of shear stress combined with the subsurface water flow depth best described the Tc of rill flow under subsurface water flow impacts. Subsurface water flow can increase the soil erodibility, and thus decrease the critical shear stress, resulting in a lower critical flow velocity at which sediment transport capacity can be achieved. This research provides a new equation for directly determining Tc in subsurface water flow‐impacted rill flow on purple soil slopes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

• This study introduced a novel comparative numerical modelling methodology using both forward (TELEMAC) and inverse (TSUFLIND) models to simulate the 2015 Illapel tsunami's impact in Chile accurately. • Most probable earthquake source parameters were estimated by comparing modelled tsunami hydrodynamics from TELEMAC with field observations. • Tsunami sediment deposits were used to estimate flow characteristics in the TSUFLIND model. • Both models, TELEMAC and TSUFLIND, yielded consistent results, validating the predicted tsunami flow depths, velocities, and sediment depositions. • The study highlights the importance of combining geological evidence with numerical models to enhance tsunami hazard assessment, especially when direct hydrodynamic measurements are unavailable. The 2015 Illapel earthquake (Mw 8.3) generated a tsunami that significantly impacted the central-north Chilean coast. Previous studies have utilized numerical modelling to analyse this tsunami propagation, yet none have applied a comparative forward and inverse modelling approach to accurately estimate the earthquake source parameters, flow characteristics and sediment transport. A forward model TELEMAC was employed to simulate tsunami hydrodynamics and sediment transport, calibrating it against tide gauge records to identify the most accurate earthquake source scenario. Simultaneously, the inverse model TSUFLIND was utilized to deduce hydrodynamic properties during the inundation phase from sediment deposit characteristics. The performance of the models was evaluated by comparing flow characteristics. The approach was tested along the Tongoy estuary by comparing it against regional tide gauge data, alongside measurements of flow depth and run-up, and sediment deposit observations from five pits along the river (680 m to 1280 m inland). Along the five pits, TELEMAC results indicate the tsunami flow depths ranged between 3.22 m to 0.47 m, and onshore velocities ranged from 4.9 m/s to 2.21 m/s, with sediment deposition from 20 cm to 7 cm. On the other hand, TSUFLIND results were consistent with TELEMAC, with flow depths between 3.22 m to 0.68 m, velocities between 4.84 m/s to 2.05 m/s, and deposition thickness of 15 cm to 0.5 cm along the five pits. The agreement of the hydrodynamic results from both models highlights the importance of integrating geological evidence with numerical modelling where tide records or other hydrodynamic information cannot be obtained for tsunami events, highlighting the significance of a combined approach for advancing the understanding of tsunami hazards. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

River mouths are dynamic systems that can respond rapidly to both fluxes in fluvial water and sediment discharge and marine energy conditions, notably waves. On semi-arid wave-exposed coasts, the morphosedimentary behaviour of river mouths is particularly sensitive to variations in water discharge, which can be significantly influenced by climate variations, in addition to anthropogenic actions such as the construction of dams for water resource needs. In this climatic setting, an increasingly common consequence of decreasing river water discharge is the more or less prolonged closure of river mouths. Most studies have addressed river-mouth closure using analytical, parametric, numerical, or statistical models. The present study uses output from four numerical models to elucidate the hydrodynamic and sedimentary behaviour of the mouth of the Oum-Errabia River (catchment size: 35,000 km2), which debouches on the Atlantic coast of Morocco. The historical evolution of the river mouth and the impact of human interventions, such as the construction of dams, are discussed. The study also briefly discusses the impact of the recent closure of the river outlet, in response to particularly low water discharge, on the marine ecosystem and water quality. The modelling results covering a one-year simulation in this situation of closure indicate a deposition of 427,400 m3 of sediment in front of the mouth of the Oum-Errabia. Ensuring permanent river-mouth opening and tidal flushing and renewal of this river’s estuarine waters will necessitate costly regular dredging.

An estuary delta is an area with active human economic activities and a fragile natural ecological environment. With the intensification of global changes and human activities, coastal and seabed erosion around the world is becoming more and more serious. This study compared the hydrodynamic effect and sediment diffusion path at the Yellow River subaqueous delta (river control type) and the Yangtze River subaqueous delta (tide-river type) in the East Asian monsoon area using a Delft 3D numerical simulation to analyse the causes of the distribution of accumulation and erosion landform in the different types of subaqueous deltas. This study found that the river deltas were dominated by the river when the accumulation landforms concentrated in the direction of the Coriolis forces, which was due to hydrodynamic erosion driven by wind, and the sediment diffusion range was mainly concentrated in shallow water areas (water depth < 6 m), resulting the Yellow River subaqueous delta presenting the pattern of "northern erosion and south accumulation". The Yangtze River subaqueous delta was controlled by tidal effects, making the southern part of the estuary more susceptible to erosion. The research results can not only further deepen the understanding of the physical process and mechanism of erosion and deposition in the subaqueous delta but also provide stronger scientific support for the deltas' ecological environment protection, geological environment safety, and disaster geology prevention. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The water depth and flow velocity of a river may be temporarily disturbed by the water level fluctuations connected with the operation of artificial dam reservoirs located downstream (so-called backwater fluctuations (BF)). In this research, we use the two-dimensional hydrodynamic model iRIC MFlow_02 to quantify the effects of BF on the lowermost section (ca. 1.5-km length) of a small (channel width ≤ 20 m) mountain stream, the Smolnik Stream, which flows into the Rożnów Dam Reservoir, in Southern Poland. To reproduce the hydrological conditions generally observed in the stream, six scenarios were simulated, considering three steady flow discharges at the inlet, with recurrence intervals of 1 year (1.8 m3 s−1, small flood), 2 years (24.5 m3 s−1; medium flood), and 20 years (89.5 m3 s−1; large flood), and two reservoir levels at the outlet: 265 m a.s.l. (normal reservoir water level) and 270 m a.s.l. (maximum reservoir water level). In these simulations, sediment transport and morphodynamics are not considered. The average modelled water depth was increased by backwater fluctuation in the channel, from 28% (from 1.62 m vs. 2.07 m) during a small flood, up to 59% (from 3.46 m to 5.50 m) during a large flood. Contrastingly, the average modelled flow velocity was decreased in the channel (from −8% 0.52 m s−1 vs. 0.47 m s−1) during a small flood to −78% (0.49 m s−1 vs. 0.11 m s−1) during a large flood. Our results demonstrate that backwater fluctuations substantially disturb the hydrodynamics of the studied stream, which is interpreted as a triggering factor of the previously documented alterations in its sedimentology, morphology, and riparian vegetation pattern. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Spatial and temporal patterns in three‐dimensional flow structure are linked to channel processes and morphology in many environments. However, there is not yet an understanding of how the flow structure is influenced by channelized and gradually distributed lateral outflows that are often prevalent in river deltas. This study presents an analysis of three‐dimensional flow structure data collected from Wax Lake Delta, a naturally developing river‐dominated delta in the northern Gulf of Mexico. Three hydrographic surveys were conducted using a boat‐mounted acoustic Doppler current profiler at two sites: a channelized outflow zone and a distributary channel experiencing unchannelized lateral outflow. The flow structure was analyzed to identify secondary circulation cells induced by both types of lateral outflow. For channelized outflow, coherent cells were observed. However, minimal presence of coherent structures was observed for unchannelized lateral outflow. The results suggest that the formation of detectable secondary circulation cells may depend upon a threshold value of the ratio of the lateral momentum flux along the length of the outflow zone and primary flow momentum flux. The threshold lies in between 0.211 and 0.375 km−1 for the conditions tested. This research contributes novel field measurements of flow structure in an actively prograding river delta and offers important implications for coastal restoration by linking three‐dimensional flow structure to lateral outflow. Plain Language Summary: A developing river delta consists of channels that distribute water and sediment and partially flooded islands that are in the process of formation. Water moves from distributary channels onto these islands laterally through smaller channels or over the channel bank. Sediment and nutrients also get carried from the channels onto the delta islands, which is important for the health and growth of the delta. Understanding the physics of the water movement helps scientists understand how deltas build land and allows for robust restoration projects. Here we use an acoustic instrument called an acoustic Doppler current profiler to measure the complex patterns of water velocity created by the flow through small channels and over banks in a river delta. We observe strong rotating flow in the channels when the water outflows through a side channel. However, weak rotating flow was observed when the water gets distributed over a large area through flow over the bank. The results suggest the strength and type of lateral outflow (either through a channel or over the bank) control whether or not rotating flows can form. The results of this study have implications for better understanding water movement and the evolution of river deltas. Key Points: Channelized outflow was observed to induce coherent secondary circulations while unchannelized lateral outflow did notFormation of the coherent secondary circulations may depend upon available lateral momentum flux and length scale of outflow in the channelSuspended sediment transport to wetlands may depend on strength of secondary circulation cells [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Forensic engineering field surveys conducted in the aftermath of large-scale tsunamis documented the presence of deep local scour holes around structures caused by extreme inundation occurring during such events. The mechanisms leading to scour in extreme flows are still not well understood, as several physical phenomena influencing the spatiotemporal extent of scour have not been adequately investigated. The authors have conducted an experimental test program that has employed a large square column in the Large Wave Flume of the Coastal Research Center, Germany, while they also used a state-of-the-art numerical model (FLOW-3D) to numerically reproduce the experimental results. An investigation of the turbulent flow structures observed around the impacted structure showed that these flow structures are largely responsible for the sediment transport during the runup phase, but the turbulent energy was far less intense during the drawdown phase. The weakness of the turbulent structures observed during drawdown indicates that a different physical phenomenon than the one corresponding to the inflow phase is responsible for the sediment transport experienced during inundation drawdown. Due to the rapid lowering of the flow depth during the drawdown phase of tsunami inundations, a loss of excess pressure occurs because of the upward pressure gradient forming within the soil. However, the pore pressure measurements taken inside the soil in the physical experiment indicate no sign of upward pressure gradient on the inshore side of the column, which is an observation that is incongruent with previous similar studies and previous theoretical concepts. This difference was explained by a layer of soil that remained with a low water content throughout the test because the column was installed on dry sand with low permeability, a condition never tested before for pore pressure change caused by tsunami-like waves. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Tidal-inlet systems are dynamic features that respond to short-term (e.g., storms) and longer-term processes (e.g., sea-level rise, changes in tidal prism). The Chincoteague Inlet system, located along the northern Eastern Shore of Virginia (USA), is a dynamic coastal complex that experiences rapid change associated with sediment redistribution and a shifting inlet throat due to the southern elongation of adjacent Assateague Island. In this study, a numerical model based on Delft3D with coupled flow–waves, multiclass sediment transport, and morphologic feedback was developed to quantify the hydrodynamic and geomorphic controls within this rapidly evolving inlet–spit system and to develop a more comprehensive understanding of regional to local controls on sediment-transport pathways. Model results show that most of the sand transport along southern Assateague Island is sequestered nearshore and proximally in deeper sinks within Fishing Point, and, of that, only finer sand sizes are transported around the spit, confirming previous analysis and hypothesis. The model also showed that sand transport toward the south increases along Wallops Island and quantified spatially explicit transport trends for selected sediment classes, revealing that coarser sediment bypassing is a punctuated process that is proportional to storms.

In this paper, two-phase flow simulations of oscillatory sheet flow experimental configurations involving medium and fine sand using a turbulence-resolving two-fluid model are presented. The turbulence-resolving two-phase flow model reproduces the differences of behaviour observed between medium and fine sand whereas turbulence-averaged models require an almost systematic tuning of empirical model coefficients for turbulence–particle interactions. The two-fluid model explicitly resolves these interactions and can be used to study in detail the differences observed experimentally. Detailed analysis of concentration profiles, flow hydrodynamics, turbulent statistics and vertical mass balance allowed the confirmation that unsteady effects, namely phase-lag effect and enhanced boundary layer thickness, for fine sand are not only due to the small settling velocity of the particles relative to the wave period. The occurrence and intensity of unsteady effects are also affected by a complex interplay between flow instabilities, strong solid-phase Reynolds stress and turbulence attenuation caused by the presence of the particles. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]