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Beach evolution is one of the key issues in coastal engineering. High computational efficiency model of beach evolution is limited by strong wave nonlinearity, flow acceleration, and sediment phase lag. The XBeach model is improved to cover the three limitations in the study. First, the near-bed velocity of nonlinear wave is reconstructed by using nonlinear parameters. Second, flow acceleration and sediment phase lag are taken into account for the near-bed sediment conditions to calculate the equilibrium concentration of suspended sediment and the transport rate of bed load. The response of sediment is not necessarily instantaneous to near-bed velocity in practical problems, but separated into a phase (time) shift between sediment concentration and velocity and a phase residual denoting sediment amount in moving at flow reversal. The improved XBeach model performs better results than the original XBeach model. Numerical experiments are carried out using the improved XBeach model to investigate the effects of wave height and sediment size. The numerical experiments show that the volume and range of erosion/deposition increase with the increase of wave height and decrease of sediment size, and deposition center moves to offshore. The perspective of wave energy and phase lag can explain the erosion/deposition variation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A field campaign was carried out at a sheltered sandy beach with the aim of gaining new insights into the driving processes behind sheltered beach morphodynamics. Detailed measurements of the local hydrodynamics, bed level changes and sediment composition were collected at the man-made beach on the leeside of the barrier island Texel, bordering the Marsdiep basin that is part of the Dutch Wadden Sea. The data set consists of (1) current, wave and turbidity measurements from a dense cross-shore array and a 3 km alongshore array, (2) sediment composition data from beach surface samples, (3) high-temporal-resolution RTK-GNSS beach profile measurements, (4) a pre-campaign spatially covering bathy-topo map and (5) meteorological data. This manuscript outlines how these measurements were set up and how the data have been processed, stored and can be accessed. The novelty of this data set lies in the detailed approach to resolve forcing conditions on a sheltered beach, where sediment transport is governed by a strong interplay between tidal currents, waves and bed composition, primarily due to the low-energy (near-threshold) forcing. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Due to the active sediment movement in sandy coasts, great changes may develop in the shoreline near the building after it is built into the sea. The downstream erosion problems and protective measures of buildings in sandy coast are reviewed and summarized based on the results of previous studies to facilitate further studies. On the basis of several typical cases such as that in the Friendship Harbor in Mauritania, the law of coastal changes in the downstream of sandy coastal buildings is analyzed from the aspects of coastline variation and sectional variation. The mechanism of water and sediment movement near protective measures such as groins, offshore breakwaters and offshore submerged breakwaters, is discussed, and soft protective measures such as artificial beach cultivation and by-pass sediment transport are summarized. Finally, the prospects for future research on coastal erosion of downstream sandy coastal structures and corresponding protective measures are given. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A three-phase (air, water, and sediment) flow computational-fluid-dynamics model based on OpenFOAM was used in the present work to simulate the beach erosion induced by breaking solitary waves. The simulation results were first validated by comparing them against experimental measurements. The simulated time series of the surface elevation and pore pressure, as well as the simulated beach profile after erosion, compared fairly well with the experiment. The simulation results showed that the wave runup and rundown processes were accompanied by distinct hydrodynamics and sediment transport characteristics. The hydrodynamics in the runup stage is featured by a weaker flow before the wave breaking and a stronger one afterward, which then gradually weakens toward the runup limit. The hydrodynamics in the rundown stage is featured by a generally weaker flow compared to the runup stage. The flow is also stronger before the hydraulic jump and weaker afterward. A flow reversal and the exfiltration process are captured by the numerical model at the end of the rundown stage. The sediment transport in the runup stage is featured by an intense rate but a short duration, while the sediment transport in the rundown stage is much slower but has a longer duration. As a result, the total amounts of the transported sediment in the runup and rundown stages were comparable to each other. Finally, a discussion on the limitations of the numerical model and possible modifications to further improve the model in the future is presented. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Recent developments in process-based coastal area models such as XBeach provide new opportunities to predict coastal responses to primary forcing mechanisms such as storm hydrodynamic by using 2DH grids. However, due to the lack of measured data, there are few application scenarios of the models. Therefore, more measurement and research are needed. In this paper, the Typhoon Lekima that hitting Zhejiang Province during neap tide period was selected to simulate morphodynamic responses of the Huangcheng Beach by assuming encountering with different tide types. Cross shore measurements with eight cross-shore profiles (named S1 ~ S8 from north to south) of the Huangcheng Beach pre- and post- the Typhoon Lekima respectively were presented. Then a 2DH storm surge and wave coupled model was established with Delft3D Flow/Wave. The model was well calibrated with measured water levels and wave data and provided hydrodynamic boundary conditions of different typhoon and tide types coupling situations for a refined model. The refined model was built using XBeach and simulated the morphological responses of the Huangcheng beach with well verifications. On basis of the numerical results, bed level changes at the eight profiles were analyzed, and the character of erosion and deposition under different tide conditions were illustrated. The net sand volume changes were got smaller under the spring tide condition rather than middle tide and neap tide conditions. Further study of the distribution of wave induced current at different stages of collision, inundation and ebb shown that the stronger current under spring tide condition would increase the sediment transport rate and reduce the deposition volume at profiles S3 and S6 ~ S8, and the total amount of sediment involved in transportation had increased for the whole beach, leading to the reduction of net erosion volume at profiles S1, S2, S4 and S5. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Identifying coastal stretches that are likely to erode under high wave conditions is essential to the coastal management community in addressing beach erosion-related issues. The manuscript presents a case study to predict erosion of a selected beach located on the eastern Indian coast during the 2018 southwest (SW) monsoon season. The pre-monsoon beach topography surveyed using DGPS is used as the initial topographic condition in the morphological model. The model simulates subsequent beach erosion during the SW monsoon season, which is forced by forecast waves. Beach erosion advisories that classify the beach as eroding, accreting and no change are disseminated with a lead period of 10 days. During the SW monsoon period, we have monitored the beach using the dumpy level, and the beach topography during the post-monsoon is generated using DGPS surveyed profiles and are used for model validation. The beach area under erosion observed from the model result is homologous with the in-situ observations. The model shows cross-shore sediment transport to dominate during the SW monsoon, particularly in the central and northern sectors of RK beach. The model estimated shoreline position agrees with the DGPS observations, where the central sector has undergone maximum erosion. The comparison shows the model's ability to simulate beach morphodynamics like landward shifting of the berm crest under a high wave setup and oscillating water levels due to tides. The study highlights the importance of numerical modelling systems that decipher the beach response to the high monsoon waves. Research highlights: Beach erosion forecast system for RK Beach, India. Forecast system is developed using a combination of WAVEWATCHIII and Xbeach. Beach erosion advisories during monsoon period. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Overwash is the cross‐shore transport of water and sediment from a waterbody over the crest of a sand or gravel barrier beach, and washover is the resulting sedimentary deposit. Washover volume, and alongshore patterns of washover distribution, are fundamental components of sediment budgets for low‐lying coastal barrier systems. Accurate sediment budgets are essential to forecasting barrier system sustainability under future climate‐driven forcing. However, comprehensive surveys of three‐dimensional washover morphology are challenging to deliver. Here, we use the results of a physical experiment, analysis of lidar data, and examples of washover characteristics reported in the literature to develop scaling relationships for washover morphometry that demonstrate volume can be reasonably inferred from planform measurements, for washover in natural (non‐built) and built barrier settings. Gaining three‐dimensional insight into washover deposits from two‐dimensional information unlocks the ability to analyze past aerial imagery and estimate contributions from washover flux to sediment budgets for past storms. Plain Language Summary: When a coastal storm drives water up and over the crest of a beach, sediment gets picked up by the flow and deposited behind the beach. That deposit, which might settle among dunes, on a marsh, or on the streets of a neighborhood, is called washover. Knowing the total volume of washover delivered by a storm event helps coastal managers account for the amount of sediment that moves through a beach system over time, known as a sediment budget. An accurate sediment budget provides an indication of environmental functioning and sustainability. However, washover volume is expensive to measure over large spatial scales—so despite its importance to sediment budgets, washover volume often goes unquantified. What if three‐dimensional washover volume could be estimated from the two‐dimensional shape and size of washover deposits visible in aerial photos? Here, we created washover deposits in a laboratory and compared them to washover in field settings to show that the area of a washover deposit is a good predictor of its volume. This relationship between area and volume unlocks information about past storm deposition captured in aerial photo archives, and enables estimation of washover volume where direct measurement of volume is unavailable or impossible. Key Points: Washover volume can be estimated from washover areaScaling relationships for washover size and shape link measurements from a physical experiment and field examplesEstimation of washover volume from aerial imagery is a step toward quantifying storm‐driven contributions to sediment budgets [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Mercaldi, B.; Brideau, L.E.; Tait, J.F., and Griggs, G., 2022. Seasonal morphological variability on estuarine beaches and implications for low-energy beach management. Journal of Coastal Research, 38(6), 1135–1147. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Estuarine beaches and other low-energy shorelines are critical for habitats and coastal infrastructure protection. Many different species inhabit estuaries because of the water bodies' unique characteristics, such as their mixed seawater and freshwater and variable tidal ranges. Estuarine beaches also have the important role of buffering storm wave energy. Yet, their natural physical processes are understudied. This research focuses on seasonal morphological variability of estuarine, low-energy beaches and evaluates the implications for beach management practices. Five sandy beaches were studied along the northern shoreline of Long Island Sound in the northeastern region of the United States. The studied beaches vary in location, width, length, and orientation within Long Island Sound to represent different exposures to wave energy. Three seasonal profiles were measured at each beach approximately every four months from late 2015 to early 2019 to document topographic changes. The results revealed minimal sediment movement throughout the study period and there was no evidence of significant cyclic cross-shore sediment transport to indicate patterns of seasonal profile changes. These findings reveal important implications for beach management practices on low-energy shorelines. Specifically, estuarine and other low-energy beaches should be studied on decadal time scales to document any long-term variability and post-storm recovery rather than the monthly or yearly time scales on which open-ocean beaches are typically evaluated. Additionally, estuarine beaches and other low-energy shorelines require specialized management practices that cater to their stagnancy to ensure adequate protection of coastal structures and infrastructure in the face of intensifying hurricanes and sea level rise. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Impacts from a changing climate, in particular sea-level rise, will be most acutely felt on small oceanic islands. A common configuration of mid-latitude islands is the sandy barrier island. Sable Island, Nova Scotia, Canada is a vegetated sand island near the shelf edge, 160 km from the nearest point of land, that is morphologically similar to a barrier island. This study uses 60 years of airphoto records to analyse changes in coastline position through digitized shore and vegetation (foredune proxy) lines. Rates of coastal movement are analysed to model the future (2039) coastal configuration. The analyses suggest that the majority of the coastline on Sable Island is in retreat, with net retreat on the south side of the island only partially offset by modest net advance on the north side. The different morphologies of the beach–dune systems of South Beach and North Beach, driven by incident wind and waves, yield these different coastline responses. Projected loss of 10 ha by 2039 of the climax heath vegetative community to shoreline retreat suggests a trend toward island instability due to coastline migration. Island-wide data set trends show support for two different but complementary hypotheses about whole-island evolution: (1) the island is mobile via bank migration driving southern coastline changes and experiencing sediment transport toward the east, or (2) the island is generally immobile and losing subaerial sediments (and thus shrinking) likely due to ongoing (and accelerating) sea-level rise. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Small uncrewed aerial systems (sUASs) provide an efficient way to reveal processes controlling the morphology of sandy shorelines so that they can be more effectively managed. One of Hawaiʻi's most popular tourist destinations, Waikīkī's Royal Hawaiian Beach, features patterns of sediment transport driven by trade-wind activity, seasonal wave conditions, tropical storm activity, and other phenomena that make it an effective laboratory for the study of beach morphology. To evaluate the efficacy of using consumer-grade sUASs to monitor subaerial sand volume and processes that drive beach morphodynamics, we conducted weekly aerial and ground surveys from which high-resolution point clouds, digital elevation models, and orthomosaics were generated through structure from motion (SfM) photogrammetry. Our period of observation (April to November 2018) bracketed the Central Pacific hurricane season and the season of elevated southerly swell. Both phenomena are known to significantly influence sediment transport in the study area. Using empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analysis, we described combinations of single and dual littoral cell behavior generated by both longshore sediment transport and abrupt episodic fluctuations in cross-shore transport. While past studies have investigated morphological change at this location, this unique single and dual cell behavior within the greater littoral system had not been previously revealed. This study demonstrates that sUASs are capable of capturing high-resolution spatial and temporal topographic data that allow for detailed evaluation of both seasonal processes and abrupt perturbations of beach systems. These processes drive significant changes in beach area, volume, and overall beach morphology and their understanding critical to effective management in an era of sea level rise-driven change. The employed methodology was designed to be highly efficient and universally applicable to sandy shorelines whilst also being relatively inexpensive and instrumentation readily available, allowing for a more comprehensive understanding of these unique coastal environments. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Field measurements of aeolian sediment transport during major storm events are challenging in coastal settings due to the common coincidence of high winds with elevated water levels that can cover beaches. This work demonstrates a new application of lidar to remotely measure properties of wind‐blown sand transport at high spatial resolution. A data set of spatially continuous saltation heights was remotely developed from rapid (7.1 Hz) lidar scanning along a two‐dimensional transect across a beach during wind speeds of between 3.1 and 15.8 m/s associated with the passing of Tropical Storm Isaias. Outputs from the lidar demonstrate the ability to remotely observe the threshold velocity for the initiation of motion for sand transport and show that the upper limit of the saltation layer rises with increasing wind speed. Plain Language Summary: Wind can be an important contributor to landscape changes in sandy desert and coastal environments. There are complex mechanisms by which wind moves sand that are not yet entirely understood. To answer questions about how, when, and why sand is transported by wind, experiments commonly use point‐based sensors that are unable to capture the full spatial and temporal complexity of sand movement very close to the ground. This paper shows that new laser sensors can be utilized to remotely measure properties of sand transport simultaneously at multiple points and with increased detail compared to prior approaches. High resolution, remote measurements from a tropical storm event are used to show how high wind‐blown sand is lifted off of the ground surface and how different wind speeds influence these sand transport patterns. Key Points: Wind‐driven sand transport can be measured using repeat terrestrial laser scanningRemote measurements are used to characterize time and space variable saltation heights during energetic wind forcingMaximum saltation heights respond to changes in wind speed on a coastal beach [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Although geologically constrained sandy beaches are ubiquitous along wave-exposed coasts, there is still a limited understanding of their morphological response, particularly under storm conditions, which is mainly due to a critical lack of nearshore bathymetry observations. This paper examines the potential to derive bathymetries from video imagery under challenging wave conditions in order to investigate headland control on morphological beach response. For this purpose, a video-based linear depth inversion algorithm is applied to three consecutive weeks of frames collected during daylight hours from a single fixed camera located at La Petite Chambre d'Amour beach (Anglet, SW France). Video-derived bathymetries are compared against in situ topo-bathymetric surveys carried out at the beginning and end of the field experiment in order to assess the performance of the bathymetric estimates. The results show that the rates of accretion/erosion within the surf zone are strongly influenced by the headland, whereas the beach morphological response can be classified into three main regimes depending on the angle of wave incidence θ p : (1) under deflection configuration ( θ p > 0 ° ), the alongshore sediment transport was trapped at the updrift side of the headland, promoting sand accretion. (2) Under shadowed configuration ( θ p < 0 ° ), the interruption of the longshore current drove a deficit of sand supply at the downdrift side of the headland, leading to an overall erosion in the surf zone. (3) Under shore-normal configuration ( θ p = 0 ° ), rip channels developed, and up-state beach transition was observed. A comparison between video-derived bathymetries and surveys shows an overall root mean square error (RMSE) around 0.49 to 0.57 m with a bias ranging between −0.36 and −0.29 m. The results show that video-derived bathymetries can provide new insight into the morphological change driven by storm events. The combination of such inferred bathymetry with video-derived surface current data is discussed, showing great potential to address the coupled morphodynamics system under time-varying wave conditions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

• Flume experiments were conducted to assess the impact of submerged flexible vegetation on regular wave attenuation and beach morphology. • The presence of vegetation prevented further erosion of the beach, resulting in a reduction of 7% to 63% in experiments. • The attenuation caused by vegetation results in the wave breaking point being closer to the shoreline on vegetated sand, leading to shoreline retreat. • A dimensionless equation was developed to characterize the behaviour of the cross-shore beach profile under the protection of flexible vegetation. Coastal protection methods are evolving from hard engineering techniques to natural enhancement approaches. Aquatic vegetation provides an environmentally friendly solution by effectively dissipating waves and resisting erosion. Laboratory flume experiments were conducted to investigate the effect of submerged flexible vegetation on the regular wave attenuation and cross-shore profiles on the artificial plane beach under varying hydraulic conditions. Variations in the waveform, wave spectrum, and wave height were analysed in the vegetation zone. Results show vegetation distorts the waveform and accelerates the attenuation process of the wave energy, and wave height evolution behaves differently from the theoretically obtained attenuation by Mendez and Losada (2004) due to the underestimating vegetation-induced attenuation and neglecting sediment-induced attenuation. Additionally, the formation process of the winter and summer profiles of the vegetated beach was analysed by the screenshots. Regenerated wave breaking becomes more apparent with increasing wave periods. The critical surf similarity parameter of the vegetated beaches was found to be lower than that of a smooth, impermeable slope because of the energy dissipation. Vegetation did not alter the type of the beach profiles, as compared to the final profiles and their characteristic parameters of the unvegetated beaches. Instead, it reduced the erosion depth and brought the eroded area closer to the shoreline. Dimensionless parameters were formulated to characterize the response of the cross-shore beach profile under the shelter of flexible vegetation, and an empirical equation about maximum erosion depth was developed within the scope of the experiment. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

While the impact of the spatio/temporal variability of grain size on morphological beach state is reasonably well understood, relatively little is known on its impact at a scale of days/months on aeolian sediment transport. This study focuses on five short intensive wind events during which aeolian sediment transport measurements, beach surface sampling and elevation change surveys were carried out for 1 to 3 days, over a 16-month period on a microtidal beach dominated by offshore winds. Monthly observations show a high temporal variability in beach grain size in relation to the decoupling between hydrodynamic and aeolian processes, from medium sand after a marine storm and inundation of the beach, to very coarse sand after several weeks of storm-force winds. During each wind event, topographic change on the beach ranged from zero, to 0.55 m. The time scale of coarsening depended on the initial beach grain size and could be very fast when the beach was composed of medium sand (e.g. 388 μm sand changed to coarse sand of 547 μm in 40 h). In contrast, it took one month to transition from a coarse median beach grain size of 883 μm to a very coarse one of 1323 μm. This variability in grain size results in dramatically different rates of sediment flux. For example, during average wind speeds of 10 to 14 m/s the sediment flux when the beach was composed of medium sized sand ranged between 21 and 154 kg/m/h compared to 0.4 to 50 kg/m/h when the beach was composed of coarse and very coarse sized grains. Overall, this study highlights the importance of beach grain size variability on aeolian sediment transport and shows that for similar incident wind and climatic conditions aeolian sediment transport rates vary dramatically. The study demonstrates the importance of taking care when using a constant median grain size in the calculation of long-term aeolian sand transport on beaches with heterogeneous spatial and temporal beach grain size variability. • Transport rates can be ten times greater on medium-sized beach than coarse one. • Offshore wind generate a grain size sorting, the finest sands are exported seaward. • Topographic variations of the beach depends on its grain size and sand supply. • The return of fine sediments depends on marine storms occurrence and intensities. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

An approach involving data on wave-induced sediment transport estimates is essential for managing coastal environments. Numerical models are powerful tools to understand and investigate many processes responsible for longshore sediment transport (LST) in a systematic way, since direct measurement of LST is a difficult task. This paper presents estimates of longshore sediment transport through numerical modeling of wave-induced sediment dispersion patterns in the Formosa Bay, State of Rio de Janeiro - Southeast Brazil. The analysis was conducted using the computational package Coastal Modeling System/SMC-Brazil and mathematical formulations proposed by Cerc (1984). The results suggest average residual solid discharge (Qsr avg) in the order of 131,442.745 m3/yr in northern sector, −151,908.32 m3/yr in central sector, and 71,987.69 m3/yr in southern sector of investigated area. In addition, it is important to highlight that minor variations in the wave incidence angle may cause changes in the longshore sediment drift, promoting the convergence and divergence zones throughout the investigated area. The results presented contribute to the advancement of knowledge on the topic addressed here and will be useful in future engineering projects related to beach nourishment and the management of coastal areas subject to erosion processes. • Data are presented on simulations of wave-induced longshore sediment transport rates in Baia Formosa Bay, southeastern Brazil. • The Coastal Modeling System SMC/Brazil were used. • Results suggest different solid outflow rates for each sector of investigated area. • The model may provide a basis for planning actions and environmental management in coastal zones. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Cheng, J. and Wang, P., 2022. Factors controlling storm-induced morphology changes at an erosional hot spot on a nourished beach, Sand Key barrier island, west-central Florida. Journal of Coastal Research, 38(4), 750–765. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Beach nourishment has become the dominant sandy shore protection method over the past 40 years. The performance of nourished beaches and therefore the design of renourishment projects are significantly controlled by the presence of erosional hot spots and storm impacts. Based on 5.5-year bimonthly beach profile surveys, along a nourished beach spanning an erosional hot spot, this study examines the hydrodynamic conditions of extratropical (winter) and tropical (summer) storms that cause significant morphology changes. The sand volume loss above the short-term closure depth averaged along the 1.8-km stretch erosional hot spot was 178 m3/m over the 5.5 years after the nourishment. A large portion of this volume loss was caused by several extratropical storms and Hurricane Irma in 2017, when the high, northerly approaching waves were associated with a depressed water level. The northerly approaching waves induced a large longshore sediment transport gradient along the generally north-south trending coast due to wave refraction over a nearby ebb tidal delta. The energetic Hurricane Irma induced a large negative surge and also transported sediment seaward beyond the short-term closure depth. On the other hand, during the passages of typical tropical storms, the southerly approaching waves superimposed on elevated water levels caused substantial beach volume loss above the mean sea level. The eroded sediment deposited on the nearshore sandbar, resulting in conserved sand volume above the short-term closure depth. Understanding the different beach response to extratropical and tropical storms would benefit beach management, especially under the circumstance of increasing storm activities due to climate change. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal erosion is a natural phenomenon that occurs when sediment transport away from the coast is not countered by the formation of new material on the shoreline. This is indeed a problem that is driving the erosion of coastal areas. A sea wall and a groin were created to prevent coastal erosion and floods. The future topography of the beach is being investigated using shoreline evolution analysis. Erosion, accretion, and sea level changes are basic stages that have a significant impact on the coastal structure. A qualitative analysis of the model coastal behavior in relation to the controlling process is required to research beach erosion and beach deposition. When stated in terms of non-dimensional variables, all are mathematically equivalent. In general, the models do not have to be dimensionally different. Those might just be modifications of the same problems. One can solve a wide range of models with a single solution to the related nondimensional equation. In this research, we provide a governing equation when a groin is introduced to a one-dimensional shoreline growth model. A non-dimensional shoreline evolution model with a groin structure model is provided. The model now has the ability to manipulate physical parameters. When groin structural effects are present, the initial condition setting method and boundary condition approaches are also given. To approximate the incremental model in each year, the forward time-centered space technique and the unconditionally stable Saulyev finite difference methods are used. The Saulyev finite difference approach can handle numerical solutions in almost any scenario since the stability requirements are not restricted. The Saulyev finite difference technique can be very useful for computing a practical conceptual design of shoreline evolution since the number of grids has increased. The numerical models offered provide a viable simulation for evaluating long-term coastal development. The proposed modeling may be used to forecast the effectiveness of constructing a groin system on a local beach. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Beach erosion at the unprotected downdrift end of a groin is common with waves approaching the structure obliquely. This phenomenon has often occurred on the downdrift side of natural groins on the east coast of South Korea during high waves in winter months. The resulting planform assumes a distinctive crenulate shape with a maximum indentation point landward of the erosion. An analytical model is employed to study the beach erosion at the downdrift end of a natural rock groin at Jeongdongjin Beach in Korea, using mathematical equations derived from the parabolic model for headland-bay beaches in static equilibrium, to predict the downdrift control point and maximum indentation of the eroded shoreline. These equations are solved using the prevailing wave height, wave angle at breaking and wave direction derived from analyzing NOAA's wave data over 40 years and the longshore sediment transport rate calculated from the wave data. The location of the calculated maximum indentation is also verified using shoreline video monitoring data and compared with the result of a one-line numerical model for shoreline change. The limitation of the proposed analytical model is discussed as is the effect of sediment bypassing the groin. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

To evaluate the annual sediment dispersal pattern, a year-long beach profile monitoring and granulometric analysis were adopted along the Kundapura estuarine beaches of coastal Karnataka. The river mouth is bounded by breakwaters and the coast is armoured by seawalls and groins. Beaches adjacent to the breakwater showed progradation as a result of the shadow zone created due to the sheltering effect from incident waves. Evidence also comes from the replacement of coarser mode sediments by finer. Those away from the shadow zone, however, experienced extensive erosion. They are subjected to along-shore drift and minimal replacement from the same. It was also observed that despite being tropical estuarine beaches, sediments did not show any affinity towards a fluvial-derived character. These points towards transport of fine sediments further offshore and retention of coarser fraction in the surf zone that is to be carried shoreward. Breakwaters in turn facilitate this by channelising the river discharge farther in the sea. Evidence towards the same is also provided by the well-sorted to moderately well-sorted nature of the sediments. Breakwaters were thus observed to highly influence the sediment dispersion and distribution along an estuarine coast. This study will provide knowledge on the role of coastal structures in sediment dispersion while framing future coastal protection strategies for the conservation of the coast. Research highlights: Progradation of beaches adjacent to the breakwaters due to sheltering from direct waves whereas erosion of beaches away from the influence of these structures is observed. Extensive engineered coast has resulted in the narrowing of the natural beach width making it reflective with a high-energy environment thus accelerating further erosion. Due to this, the beach has lost its recreational value. The along-shore drift directions derived considering beach morphology, beach volume change and beach sedimentology, along with the mode of transport and environmental affinity of sediments provide a comprehensive understanding of sediment dispersal pattern along the coast. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this paper, a two-phase coastal liquid-sediment system and a wave breaker were numerically simulated using a particle-based smooth particle hydrodynamics (SPH). To verify the accuracy of SPH numerical scheme and model, a simplified liquid-sediment test case was constructed for validation using particle image velocimetry (PIV) experiment. Quantitatively, the discrepancies of the probed velocities are less than 9.32%. Moreover, both the sediment and flow profiles obtained numerically and experimentally are qualitatively comparable. Through SPH simulation, the exact mechanism of beach profile erosion was visualized. Thus, the veracity of the developed SPH numerical model was affirmed and justified. Using similar numerical approach, the variation effects of wave frequency on the characteristics of breaking wave were investigated. Five liquid-sediment cases of sinusoidal waves of varying frequencies from 0.2 to 1.0 Hz were studied. The characteristics of breaking waves were determined as surging or collapsing, plunging and spilling in the ascending order of wave frequency. Subsequently, the correlation between Iribarren number and Froude number was analyzed to observe the effect of wave breaker types on the beach erosion profile. Furthermore, two statistically correlated equations were formulated to relate wave frequency to Iribarren number and wave height. Finally, generalized plot of Iribarren number against Froude number was developed to determine the characteristics of the breaker wave at different slope angles. Overall, the presented SPH numerical scheme was found viable in simulating coastal problems, for instance, sediment transport and breaking wave impact on erosion. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Understanding sediment transport processes on natural sandy beaches is essential for gaining insights into beach recovery and making effective coastal management decisions. This study examines surfzone sediment transport rates related to beachface morphological variations on an embayed mesotidal sandy beach located on the northwestern coast of the Baja California Peninsula in Mexico. Data were collected during a week-long field experiment conducted in June 2016 under low-to-moderate wave energy conditions (H s = 0.4 − 1.3 m). Daily topographical surveys and continuous measurements of near-bottom suspended sediment fluxes were conducted alongside the application of an extended energetics-based model that accounted for velocity and acceleration skewness. Results reveal contrasting accretionary and erosive patterns in the inner surfzone, along with consistent sediment deposition in the swash zone throughout the study period. Onshore sediment transport is found to be related to short-period calm wave conditions (H s < 0.7 m; T p < 10 s) and a weak undertow (<0.2 ms−1). Alongshore nonuniform wave breaking, influenced by irregular bathymetry and moderate-energetic oblique waves from the northwest, contributes to an alongshore gradient in sediment transport rate, leading to erosion in the northern part of the intertidal beach and accretion in the southern part. Suspended sediment flux measurements at 0.2 m above the bed suggest offshore mean transport predominates over oscillatory transport throughout the field experiment. Nevertheless, this observation should be interpreted with caution, as the flux is not vertically integrated across the water column and does not consider fluid acceleration. The model predictions effectively replicate sediment transport rates and consequent volumetric changes (Accuracy = 55– 63 % ; RMSE = 44–69 m3; Bias = − 2 to −61 m3), although they underestimate observed accretion by a factor of three and overestimate erosion by a factor of two. Overall, this research highlights the complexities of natural sandy beach recovery processes in mesotidal environments and emphasizes the importance of considering both cross-shore and longshore components in sediment transport assessments. [Display omitted] • Beachface accretion remains consistent under low-to-moderate wave conditions. • Combined velocity- and acceleration-skewness model reproduces onshore sediment transport, but underestimates beachface accretion. • Erosive and accretive surfzone patterns are linked to nonuniform wave breaking influenced by bathymetry. • Undertow significantly governs offshore sediment flux near the seabed within the surfzone. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Beach loss is a growing global challenge that threatens the safety of coastal communities, the health of coastal ecosystems, recreational amenities, and regional economies dependent on tourism. Spatial gradients in longshore sediment transport, or divergence of drift (DoD), is a primary driver of beach width change over multi-annual time scales, but the response of any particular beach can be challenging to characterize and predict. Here we present a new method to characterize DoD using a non-uniform segmentation of the coastline informed by the spatial distribution of longshore transport potential, including the location of physical barriers identified using satellite imagery, and both maxima and reversals in longshore transport potential derived from nearshore wave data. The method demonstrates improved capacity to predict beach width trends at sandy beaches compared to methods that rely on a uniform segmentation of the coastline. In an application to southern California where satellite data documents two decades of beach width change, the non-uniform segmentation method correctly predicts the sign of beach trends at 93% of transects within a littoral cell and achieves a linear correlation between DoD and beach width trends exceeding 0.8. Moreover, we find that a minimum of five years of data are required to establish consistently strong correlations between DoD and beach width changes. Conversely, use of a uniform segmentation is shown to be unreliable for estimating beach width trends due to strong sensitivities to shoreline segment size. This work shows the potential to leverage nearshore wave data and satellite-based beach width data for improved characterization of shoreline dynamics relevant to beach erosion management. • A new shoreline modeling method is presented for estimating divergence of drift. • Segment boundaries are identified using longshore transport characteristics. • Strong correlations were shown between divergence of drift and beach width trends. • A littoral Peclet number characterizes the dominant longshore transport mechanism. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Dune height is an important predictor of impact during a storm event given that taller dunes have a lower likelihood of being overtopped than shorter dunes. However, the temporal dominance of the wave collision regime, wherein volume loss (erosion) from the dune occurs through dune retreat without overtopping, suggests that dune width must also be considered when evaluating the vulnerability of dunes to erosion. We use XBeach, a numerical model that simulates hydrodynamic processes, sediment transport, and morphologic change, to analyze storm-induced dune erosion as a function of dune aspect ratio (i.e., dune height versus dune width) for storms of varying intensity and duration. We find that low aspect ratio (low and wide) dunes lose less volume than high aspect ratio (tall and narrow) dunes during longer and more intense storms when the beach width is controlled for. In managed dune scenarios, where sand fences are used to construct a "fenced" dune seaward of the existing "natural" dune, we find that fenced dunes effectively prevent the natural dune behind them from experiencing any volume loss until the fenced dune is sufficiently eroded, reducing the magnitude of erosion of the natural dune by up to 50 %. We then control for dune morphology to assess volume loss as a function of beach width and confirm that beach width exerts a significant influence on dune erosion; a wide beach offers the greatest protection from erosion in all circumstances while the width of the dune determines how long the dune will last under persistent scarping. These findings suggest that efforts to maintain a wide beach may be effective at protecting coastal communities from dune loss. However, a trade-off may exist in maintaining wide beaches and dunes in that the protection offered in the short-term must be considered in concert with potentially long-term detrimental effects of limiting overwash, a process which is critical to maintaining island elevation as sea level rises. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper presents the use of an Eulerian–Eulerian multi-phase model to examine sediment transport over a gravel beach under regular waves. A previously published full-scale experiment is reproduced numerically; the simulated wave deformation, flow velocity, pore pressure, and morphological evolution are consistent with measurements. The multi-phase model can produce berm formation for smaller waves and beach erosion for larger waves as observation in previous field studies. The sensitivity analysis suggests that the nonlinear component of drag has significant effect on the berm formation through infiltration and exfiltration. The two simulated forces applied on the sediment (drag and buoyancy) are examined. The drag is the main force directly for sediment transport; therefore the sediment transport rate has high correlation with depth-averaged flow velocity. The buoyancy that is caused by plunging flow impacting beach face can push the sediment landward in the bore front, where the flow acceleration has its peak. The flow acceleration is considered in some previous sediment transport models empirically for simulating morphological evolution of gravel beach under waves. The buoyancy links the flow acceleration and sediment transport rate in the bore front. • Sediment transport in a gravel beach is simulated using a multiphase model. • The drag is the main force directly for sediment transport. • The buoyancy links the flow acceleration and sediment transport rate in the bore front. • The nonlinear drag has the effect on berm formation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Storm surge, a major disaster in coastal areas, is generated by tropical cyclones. Strong currents and waves during storm surges often cause sediment transport and beach erosion, significantly damaging the coastal ecosystem. This paper presents a flow-wave-sediment-morphodynamic coupled model to predict morphodynamic changes caused by overwash during storm surges. In the model, the flow field is calculated using the generalized shallow water equations coupled with the Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) model, while sediment transport and bed changes are computed using a non-equilibrium total-load sediment transport model. The model solves the governing equations by employing the explicit finite-volume approach based on a rectangular mesh. The Godunov-type central upwind scheme is adopted to calculate the interface fluxes, thereby solving the complex Riemann problem. A series of numerical experiments considering wave-induced longshore current and short-term bed erosion are conducted to validate the established model and demonstrate its ability to simulate waves, flow fields, and bed changes during storm surge. Specifically, we used the model to simulate the morphological evolution of the Santa Rosa barrier island caused by Hurricane Ivan's storm surge, and the results indicate that the model accurately predicts the real-case erosion process caused by storm surge and overwash during the hurricane. The simulated results clearly explain overwash development, including washover fans, foredune erosion, and back-barrier deposition. It demonstrates that the front dune significantly eroded with the Santa Rosa barrier island coastline retreating by a maximum of about 80 m during the storm surge. More than three breaches with a width of up to 135 m were formed on the sandy barrier due to wave overwash, while the topography at the breach changed significantly. • A new flow-wave-sediment-morphodynamic coupled model is developed to predict morphodynamic changes caused by overwash during storm surges. • A series of numerical experiments conducted using the new model demonstrates its ability and it successfully predicts the overwash erosion of the Santa Rosa barrier island during Hurricane Ivan's storm surge. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

During August 2018 – November 2019, the transport pathways of dredge material from a specially constructed nearshore feeder berm were investigated as part of a collaborative study by the City of South Padre Island, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers–Galveston District, U.S. Geological Survey, Partrac GeoMarine Inc., and Texas A&M University, into the efficacy of beneficial use dredge material (BUDM) as a method of replenishing the beach profile and shoreface at South Padre Island, Texas with sediment. Dual-signature (fluorescent and ferrimagnetic) tracer particles, designed to be hydraulically equivalent to the dredge material, were placed on the berm, and a sampling program was initiated to monitor the spatiotemporal movement of tracer particles under the influence of the prevailing hydrodynamic regime. Wave and current data were collected and were used together with available metocean data to identify the forcing mechanisms of sediment transport; improved understanding garnered from the consideration of multiple datasets can be used to inform future coastal management decisions. Tracer analysis results indicated low magnitude, shoreward transport of dredge material from the berm and along shore transport in both northerly and southerly directions. Small amounts of tracer detected in beach face samples demonstrated connectivity between the constructed feeder berm and the shoreface. However, the generally low tracer concentration within beach face samples indicated low rates of sediment transport for berm sediments, and a low magnitude sediment transport pathway from the berm directly to the beach face, with possible storage of sediment in the nearshore bar system. Given that the berm was at or beyond the closure depth and considering the relatively weak prevailing near bottom hydrodynamic conditions, the potential for sediment to be mobilized and transported during the study period was generally low. Periods of higher energy waves, driven by north-northwest winds, were identified as a key driver of sediment transport but due to the infrequent nature of these events the sediment transport regime across the area of interest was temporally limited. Longshore movement of sediment was both north and south, mainly dependent on prevailing wind directions and resulting longshore currents. We discuss implications for coastal zone management and the use of feeder berms as an artificial beach nourishment mechanism to replenish sediments lost by coastal erosional processes. The insight into nearshore emplacement of material can be used by local governments and coastal managers to optimize the efficacy of berm emplacement and implement such schemes as a cost-effective nourishment option, or when onshore placement of material is not feasible. • Hydrodynamic and tracer measurements were effective monitors of sediment transport. • Hydrodynamic monitoring indicated relatively weak sediment transport conditions. • Tracer sampling confirmed that transport to replenish the beach was low magnitude. • Consider sediment transport regime before selection of BUDM placement area. • Licensed BUDM placement areas may not be optimal for beach nourishment. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The mutual feedback between the swash zone and the surf zone is known to affect large-scale morphodynamic processes such as breaker bar migration on sandy beaches. To fully resolve this feedback in a process-based manner, the morphodynamics in the swash zone and due to swash-swash interactions must be explicitly solved, e.g., by means of a wave-resolving numerical model. Currently, few existing models are able to fully resolve the complex morphodynamics in the swash zone, and none is practically applicable for engineering purposes. This work aims at improving the numerical modelling of the intra-wave sediment transport on sandy beaches in an open-source wave-resolving hydro-morphodynamic framework (e.g., non-hydrostatic XBeach). A transport equation for the intra-wave suspended sediment concentration, including an erosion and a deposition rate, is newly implemented in the model. Two laboratory experiments involving isolated waves and wave trains are simulated to analyse the performance of the model. Numerical results show overall better performance in simulating single waves rather than wave trains. For the latter, the modelling of the morphodynamic response improves in the swash zone compared with the existing sediment transport modelling approach within non-hydrostatic XBeach, while the need of including additional physical processes to better capture sediment transport and bed evolution in the surf zone is highlighted in the paper. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper presents the results of numerical study on the wave-induced currents and morphology changes due to the complicated interaction between waves and a sandy beach with shore-parallel breakwaters set on. The study was based on the SWASH wave model coupled with a sediment transport model developed in this research. The simulated results of the coupling model were compared with the published laboratory experimental data. The good agreements were obtained for both wave-induced currents and formation of salient and tombolo behind breakwaters. The models were also applied for studying the evolution of wave-induced currents associated with topography changes of a sandy beach. The wave-induced currents and sediment transport processes have a strong relationship and their interaction could reach a quasi-equilibrium state in which the changes of current pattern and bathymetry become very slow. Numerical results of shoreline response mode were also compared with a published empirical formula and confirmed good agreements. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A model is developed to simulate the morphodynamics of a barred shore profile on the scale of a storm cycle, comprising the phases of high and low wave activity. In the CROSS-PB model, the main mechanisms governing sediment transport in wave shoaling and surf zones are taken into consideration, in particular, skewness and asymmetry of the wave orbital velocities, undertow, and infragravity oscillations associated with wave groups. By comparing calculations with observed data, it is concluded that the model correctly reproduces seaward displacement of bars during a storm and shoreward under moderate or weak wave conditions. The first process is shown to be provided by balance of transport mechanisms when the peak offshore transport is located at the front slope of bar. The second process is conditioned by dominant shoreward transport and its sharp decay over the bar crest. Testing of the model yields estimates for the calibration coefficients, and it is concluded that shoreward sediment flux is mainly controlled by wave asymmetry. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper explores the combination of unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV) photogrammetry and an e-GNSS survey to investigate the short-term geomorphic change and dynamic evolution of a beach system in 2015. The RMS values of the ground control points and checkpoints validate that the accuracy of UAV-SfM photogrammetry is suitable for the rapid and frequent acquisition of 3D survey data from a beach environment. We produced four digital surface models (DSMs) to determine the short-term beach topographic response to well-known western Pacific typhoons, the NE monsoon and anthropogenic construction using multitemporal surface analysis. We investigated the magnitude of the erosion caused by intense typhoons; however, the beach-dune system generally recovers through sediment transport processes in winter. Beach monitoring also reveals that the overall sand volume of this beach was reducing in short-term period. Given that the sand budget of Shanshui beach would have been continuing to reduce, this may be a negative warning to this precious tourism resource. The dynamic evolution of this beach may result in the formation of a tombolo. This study demonstrates the feasibility and survey efficiency of UAV-SfM photogrammetry for coastal monitoring, and the technique will contribute to identifying the risk to beach systems and will benefit sustainable coastal management. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Do, J.D.; Chang, Y.S.; Kim, C.H.; Kim, W-.H.; Lee, B-.G.; Wie, G. J., and Jin, J.-W., 2020. Measurement of nearshore seabed bathymetry using airborne/mobile LiDAR and multibeam sonar at Hujeong Beach, Korea. In: Malvárez, G. and Navas, F. (eds.), Global Coastal Issues of 2020. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 95, pp. 1067-1071. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Accurate bathymetric measurements are important, especially in nearshore areas, because coastal sediment transport and the resulting beach erosion/accretion processes are significantly affected by seabed topography. At Hujeong Beach in Korea, for example, local shorelines show severe spatiotemporal variations as a result of seabed topography including underwater rocks. The accuracy of bathymetry measurements are not guaranteed, however, because high-accuracy acoustic sensors—such as multi-beam echo sounders—have a limited measurement capability. In this study, we investigated the accuracy of the nearshore bathymetry at Hujeong Beach using airborne LiDAR (a-LiDAR) data from May, 2017. One of the benefits of a-LiDAR is its ability to conduct both onshore and offshore mapping by detecting laser pulses reflected from land, the sea surface, and seabeds. The a-LiDAR measurements were validated onshore in a sloped roadside area using data measured via ship-mounted mobile LiDAR (m-LiDAR). A high agreement was found between the two datasets, with R-squared values of 0.9999 and mean square errors less than 0.05 m2. In measurements of seabed bathymetry, a-LiDAR agreed well with measurements from a multi-beam echo sounder over a sandy seabed and showed an accuracy similar to the m-LiDAR validation results. However, the accuracy of a-LiDAR measurements decreased significantly over rocky seabed; the mean square error compared to the multi-beam data increased to 0.6–0.8 m2. The high a-LiDAR errors over this rocky area may be a consequence of the irregular shape of its surface. Return signals from underwater rocks of varying shapes may be spread over wider angles, causing signal interference and reducing the measurement resolution in the area. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Tak, W.J.; Jun, K.W., Kin, S.D., and Lee, H.J., 2020. Using drone and LiDAR to assess coastal erosion and shoreline change due to the construction of coastal structures. In: Malvárez, G. and Navas, F. (eds.), Global Coastal Issues of 2020. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 95, pp. 674-678. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Recently, The construction of structures on the coastal zone near estuaries, which are the supply sources of sediments, causes a variation in the waterway; this induces a change in the surrounding coasts, and the resulting coastal erosion can adversely affect the lives of the local residents. In the case of a balanced sediment flow, the quantity of the sediment deposited on the coast is equal to the quantity of the released sediment. However, an increase in either of the quantities causes an imbalance in the sediment transport; consequently, the sand is either deposited or eroded in the coastal or proximate shore regions. In this study, the changes in the shoreline and Wolcheon Beach region located on the east coast of Korea was monitored between 2010 to 2019 investigate the phenomena of coastal erosion and beach deformation. The shorelines, beach width, and beach profile were primarily monitored by employing a drone and a terrestrial LiDAR. The results showed that the sediments were transported northward in summer and southward in winter until 2010 in Wolcheon Beach; however, this seasonal sediment transport was blocked during 2011–2012 by the construction of coastal structures such as breakwaters, leading to partial coastal erosion and sedimentation. Wolcheon Beach originally had the coastal characteristics of the Korean East Coast region (2010), but the sediment transport changed due to the variations in the waterway by the construction of coastal structures, leading to a significant change in the coast (2011). In addition, the northern beach volume increased with respect to estuary, while the southern beach volume decreased. When the offshore breakwater was constructed, the northward sediment occurred dominantly in the shield area. In particular, the planar layout of the harbor facilities concentrated the waves, which increased the quantity of the northward sediment. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Grottoli, E.; Cilli, S.; Ciavola, P., and Armaroli, C., 2020. Sedimentation at river mouths bounded by coastal structures: A case study along the Emilia-Romagna coastline, Italy. In: Malvárez, G. and Navas, F. (eds.), Global Coastal Issues of 2020. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 95, pp. 505–510. Seville (Spain), ISSN 0749-0208. Beach retreat in the Emilia-Romagna coast, facing the north Adriatic Sea, is well-known since decades and several factors are behind this phenomenon: a scarcity of natural sediment supply by rivers, natural and anthropogenic subsidence, and a strong urbanization of the coastal zone. Several bedload measurement campaigns in one representative river of the Ravenna province (Savio River) have been carried out since 2017. At the same time, seasonal surveys of bathymetry were undertaken at the river outlet to correlate changes in sedimentation with river input. The river mouth is constrained by artificial embankments that possibly funnel out sediment offshore during river floods. However, monitoring of bedload transport correlated with bathymetric changes between July 2017 and November 2018 still found a positive budget of almost 5000 cubic meters. Local authorities in Ravenna are planning to dredge 20000 cubic metres from the river mouth to supply small nourishments outside the studied coastal cell. According to the measurements of bathymetric changes, the Savio mouth will need almost six years to recover, assuming the occurrence of a particularly efficient rate of sediment transport, like the one observed in the monitored period. Notably, the analysed period included a very large river flood that could overshadow the modal sediment transport operated by the river. Furthermore, with deepening of the mouth, the two villages adjacent to the outlet are likely to become more exposed to sea flooding, due to the propagation of surges inside the river mouth. The paper concludes that dredging activities should be reconsidered in view of the precarious equilibrium of the system. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In the last decade, the downdrift coast of the Loc An river mouth, Vung Tau province, Vietnam was subject to severe erosion. This was mainly due to the downdrift migration of the river mouth which had reached in total several kilometers over the past 30 years. This study presents the migration of the Loc An river mouth and the related consequences using long-term satellite images and field data. According to wave data analysis, the waves were separated in two different monsoon seasons, northeast and southwest and the characteristics of these waves in the two seasons are noticeably different. This led to contrary dominant directions of the longshore sediment transport between the two monsoon seasons. The river mouth migrated in the southwest direction around 3000 m in the period from 1979 to 2017 (80 m/year). This migration caused the erosion and the collapsing of the geotextile jetties on the right side of the river mouth. The change rate of the surface area of the updrift sand spit is utilized to estimate the longshore sediment rate which equals the order of 2.0 × 105 m3/year. It was noted that a re-occurrence of the breaching would be very difficult in the future due to the strengthening of the back side of updrift sand spit and the operation of the Song Ray reservoir. The migration caused the two jetties to become obsolete, which were constructed to stabilize the river mouth and ensure a smooth passage for the fishing boats. The primary action would be to remove the jetties, however, if this action proves too difficult to be actualized, immediate action like dredging deposited sediment and closing the gap would need to be taken in order for the jetties to become functional again. Additionally, this study illustrates the usefulness of using satellite images to investigate the long-term evolution of the morphology which is still active and where there is still a large amount of change such as in the river mouth area. This is very useful for the research carried out at this specific place or in the country which has limitations in the field and observed data. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Fang, K.; Wang, H.; Sun, J.; Zhang, J., and Liu, Z., 2020. Including wave diffraction in XBeach: Model extension and validation. Journal of Coastal Research, 36(1), 116–127. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. An extended version of the XBeach model is presented in this paper to improve the accuracy of predicted wave and current fields and sandy beach evolution in scenarios in which wave diffraction takes effect. Following the approach successfully implemented in the Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) spectral wave model, a diffraction parameter is introduced into the wave action balance equation in XBeach to take wave diffraction into account. An alternative wave breaking index and the formulation for the critical velocity are also tested in the extended model to achieve better model–data agreement. The extended model is validated by comparing the simulation results with those of physical tests for fixed and movable sea beds. The computed wave height, wave-induced current field, and beach evolution are found to be in satisfactory agreement with the measurements, and the numerical modeling capacity of the extended model to represent wave diffraction effect is thus demonstrated. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Field observations were conducted during relatively mild wave conditions at a dissipative barred sandy beach to investigate the cross-shore sediment dynamics from the inner surf zone to the offshore side of the outer bar. Fluorescent sand tracers of five different colors were placed on the seabed at different cross-shore locations, and sand core samples were extracted respectively 11 and 20 days after the placement of tracers. Moreover, nine cross-shore bathymetric/topographic beach surveys were conducted, and the water level, wave, and wind conditions were observed. The objective of this research was to investigate the mechanisms of the on- and offshore-directed sediment transport during the inner- and outer-bar accretion events. The analyzed results revealed that at the inner surf zone, the sediment was dominantly transported in the onshore direction. The sediment was also transported offshore-ward due to the undertow; however, this occurred until the offshore end of the trough region. Overall, the outer bar shape affected the on-offshore sediment transport rate. The sediment movements in the onshore region and offshore region of the outer bar were not related; however, the outer bar was formed with the sediments from both the inner- and outer-bar regions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastlines are vulnerable to the effects of climate change and sea-level rise as well as modifications in the wave climate and, in particular, increased storminess. The coastal areas of islands form part of this scenario and the Martinique shoreline illustrates this intensification of shoreline retreat and coastal erosion. In the context of this critical situation, a coastal observation network was set up in 2010 to monitor the evolution of the coast of Martinique. This network includes 28 beaches along the coast of Martinique and is based on studies of shoreline evolution using aerial photographs and topographic surveys of 71 cross-shore transects. The main aim of this network is to characterize the modal and seasonal dynamics of these vulnerable beaches and to estimate their resilience capacity and trends in the context of the increasing frequency of hurricanes. Analysis of the measurements over the last ten years highlights a general acceleration of the shoreline retreat. Furthermore, in terms of seasonal coastal evolution processes, the results clearly show the weak effect of the longshore sediment transport component on the open beaches of Martinique Island. However, a predominant cross-shore sediment transport component is observed on smaler bay beaches, which represent the most numerous beach type on the island (including several pocket beaches). On the short-term scale, the results of hydrodynamic and morphodynamic measurements highlight variable and intensive beach dynamic responses with a determining role played by shoreface parameters and coral-lagoon complexes. While cyclones have a significant impact on reducing the slope of beach profiles, our measurements reveal a significant resilience of eroded beaches owing to constructive swell. We also demonstrate that the hurricane season is not the season with the strongest morphosedimentary impacts. This almost ten-year-old observation network, provides an overview of shoreline evolution on Martinique and is an efficient management tool for the Lesser Antilles coastal environments. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Cheng, J. and Wang, P., 2019. Unusual beach changes induced by Hurricane Irma with a negative storm surge and poststorm recovery. Journal of Coastal Research, 35(6), 1185–1199. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. The coast of west-central Florida, facing the Gulf of Mexico, experienced Hurricane Irma with a negative surge of 1.1 m and a highly oblique northerly approaching wave in September 2017. This unusual hydrodynamic condition provides an opportunity to investigate the effect of surge and incident wave direction on morphology changes. Beach profiles, spaced at 300 m apart, along a 15-km stretch of beach were surveyed 2 weeks prior to the passage of Hurricane Irma and 1 week after and continued for up to 5 months after the passage to obtain Irma-induced erosion as well as post-Irma recovery. Owing to the occurrence of negative surge, the profile volume of the dune field remained mostly stable. The majority of beach erosion occurred below mean sea level, with a considerable amount of sediment transported seaward of the depth of closure. This is opposite to the conservation of beach profile volume above depth of closure under several earlier storms with a positive surge. The alongshore variation of overall beach profile volume erosion demonstrates a southward decreasing trend, due to a southward decreasing wave height as controlled by the northerly incident wave. After the passage of Irma, minor beach volume recovery occurred during the calm period of the fall season. Opposite to the typical erosive beach in winter, the most substantial beach accretion and onshore bar movement were observed during the following peak winter season as beach/bar evolved toward equilibrium. The profile volume in the dry beach region experienced a complete recovery in the first 5 months after Hurricane Irma. Shoreline change is a valid proxy for beach volume change during both the erosive and the recovery phase of Irma. The systematically measured beach profiles provide a solid dataset to calibrate process-based models to study beach morphodynamics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Predicting the future behavior of beach and nearshore systems requires an accurate delineation and understanding of coastal cell boundaries, sediment transport pathways, and sediment sources and sinks. Unfortunately, there is a paucity of field datasets on beach and nearshore morphological change that extend fully from the top of the dunes to beyond the depth of closure to enable quantification of the sediment budget. Here, for the first time, we employ a total sediment budget approach, examining a sandy and embayed beach located in the north coast of SW England, to investigate inter- and multi-annual embayment scale sediment dynamics over a 10-year period that includes extreme storm erosion and post-storm recovery. We demonstrate that, despite the deeply embayed nature of the beach, the shoreline orientation roughly parallel to the dominant wave direction and the overwhelmingly cross-shore forcing of the inter-tidal beach volume, the system is neither closed, nor balanced. The very significant net changes in the recorded sediment volume from dune top to depth of closure (−14.5 m ODN), representing a loss of c. 100 m3 m−1 during the extreme storm period and a gain of c. 200 m3 m−1 during the recovery period, indicate that significant sediment transport occurs seaward of the base of the terminating headlands and beyond the morphological depth of closure. The results further indicate that the inter-tidal region is partly uncoupled from the sub-tidal region, with the former region dominated by cross-shore sediment fluxes, whereas the subtidal region is also significantly affected by longshore sediment fluxes. A conceptual model is presented that balances the observed volume changes with inferred fluxes, forced by variations in total and alongshore wave power. This study contradicts the general assumption that when sediment exits the inter-tidal, it rests undisturbed in the sub-tidal, waiting for a period of low-moderate energy to bring it onshore. The large sediment volumetric variations across the lower shoreface (depth of 5–20 m), which are of the same order of magnitude as, but uncorrelated with, those occurring in the inter-tidal region, are suggestive of an energetic longshore transport system across this deeper region. It is possible that this transport system extends along the whole north coast of SW England and this finding may lead to a shift in understanding of sediment budgets along exposed and macrotidal embayments globally. Unlabelled Image • Full sediment budget was produced along an exposed macrotidal embayment and linked to wave forcing. • Inter- and sub-tidal volumes are not inversely correlated, indicating decoupling. • Sediment budget suggests significant exchange around headlands and/or across depth of closure. • Beaches on this coast type can be considered part of an extended coastal cell. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The twin ambits of climate change and coastal development have raised public awareness of shoreline management. Simultaneously, they have highlighted a gap in our understanding of sediment transport and morphodynamic processes at time and space scales appropriate for shoreline management purposes. Here, we analyse an exceptional set of beach surveys gathered over a period of twenty-two years along the Suffolk coast, eastern UK, that extends over approximately 80 km to investigate the meso-scale shoreline variations. The surveys have been made biannually along fixed transects spaced at approximately 1 km intervals as part of a strategic monitoring exercise undertaken by the coastal authorities to assist in shoreline management planning. Changes in beach volume, foreshore slope and shoreline position have been computed to investigate both spatial and temporal changes. The analysis reveals some distinct responses to the physical processes of tides and waves, anthropogenic interventions and geological controls. Neither a clear relationship between the presence of sea defences and beach response nor an ordered regional-scale shoreline movement are evident. Temporal variations in beach volumes and position provide a similarly complex picture with recessionary, accretionary and stable behaviour all apparent within the study site. There is evidence of quasi-cyclic behaviour at some locations as well as a reduction in variability over time-scales beyond approximately five years. • Historic beach surveys over a period of 22 years along a frontage of 80km have been analysed for their meso-scale dynamics. • Meso-scale morphological changes of protected and unprotected beaches have been classified. • The majority of beaches fronting hard defences don't exhibit erosive trends; the majority of those without hard defences do. • Beach morphodynamics are constrained to the synoptic scale, with little coherent variation at the meso-scale. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Depth of Closure (DoC) calculation has been analysed for engineers and researchers during decades due to its relevant importance on marine works, such as beach nourishments or littoral defense projects. Several methods can be found in the literature related to the evaluation of DoC. However, they just focus on the bottom elevation change, leaving aside the cross-shore sediment transport issue. This work deals with all requests of the DoC definition and presents a new method based on the comparison of repetitive beach profiles. The main contribution of this research is the methodology presented to quantify the cross-shore sediment transport by the calculation of the Net Cross-shore Sediment Transport Parameter (NCSTP C). Its application to a complex area of the East Spanish coast concludes that NCSTP C values less than or equal to 10% can be considered as no significant. The differences between several criteria based on the change of the bottom elevation are also studied in order to evaluate if they are relevant for engineering works. The new methodology developed is a great advance in the knowledge of this imaginary boundary (DoC), since it allows to discriminate between different possible DoC values when applying any method based on profile surveys comparison. • New method to obtain the Depth of closure from profile surveys. • Quantification of the net cross-shore sediment transport. • 762 periods of time analysed over 22 years (1992–2014). • Five profile survey criteria have been compared. • The new method permits the selection of the DoC among several possible values. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Understanding the dynamics of wet granular materials is important for a range of applications, including levee safety, beach erosion, and scour around hydraulic structures. Several continuum models have been proposed recently to model the relevant processes for these applications at computationally tractable resolutions, which were derived using mixture theory approaches for granular and aerated flows. The thermodynamically constrained averaging theory is used to formulate a framework for three-phase flow models involving mechanistic conservation and balance principles for a set of entities consisting of phases, interfaces, and a common curve. The derived entropy inequality provides a basis for formulating permissibility conditions on closure relations. An example is provided showing how the entropy inequality derived in this work can be used to examine the closure relations in existing models. Results from this example show that this existing model violates entropy permissibility conditions. Several possible extensions and uses of this foundational work are summarized. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Yang, Z.; Chen, D.; Huang, D., and Yang, Y., 2019. Prediction of coastal evolution in Puerto Cabello, Venezuela. In: Guido-Aldana, P.A. and Mulahasan, S. (eds.), Advances in Water Resources and Exploration. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 93, pp. 16–21. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Coasts vary in their composition and the physical processes that affect them. However, their nature and behavior have similarities. Presently, the majority of coasts worldwide are eroding. The rapidly increasing threat of global warming and the resulting rise in sea level can accelerate coastal erosion. The nearly 2 km coastline in the port city of Puerto Cabello in Venezuela, to the west of the island Goaigoaza, was taken as a case study. The long-term state of the beach was assessed by considering the credits and debits of sand that pass through the coastal system. In the study, the net longshore sediment transport rate in the west of the salient was westward and Qin < Qout, denoting that beach erosion will occur in this particular area. Through field investigations and theoretical analysis, it can be preliminarily concluded that the beaches in the study area are slightly eroded. However, a long-term study on the current profile is essential to arrive at a decisive conclusion. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Williams, H.; Van Hoang, L.; Elliott, P.; Nguyen, H.H., and Manh, H., 2019. A tentative record of mid-Holocene sea-level highstand and barrier overwash from the Cam River mouth, Vietnam. Journal of Coastal Research, 35(4), 852–860. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. A freshwater coastal marsh near the mouth of the Cam River in Northern Vietnam stands 2–3 m above mean sea level and is bordered by a coastal barrier that reaches about 6 m above mean sea level. A core from the marsh contains a 14-cm-thick sand and shell layer. The presence of abundant shell fragments suggests inland transport of littoral sediment, and the sand layer is tentatively identified as a washover deposit. The coast of the study area contains a beachrock standing above the modern beach and reaching to ∼4 m above mean sea level. A tentative explanation of this beachrock is that it represents a beach that formed during a mid-Holocene 2–3-m highstand, evidence for which has been reported from Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, and Vietnam. Possible explanations of the sand and shell layer include the following: it is a late-Holocene tropical cyclone washover deposit, formed by a large storm surge that overtopped the coastal barrier; or it is a late-Holocene tsunami deposit formed when a tsunami wave, probably from a nearby source, overtopped the coastal barrier. The lack of other distinctive washover deposits in the core suggests that overwash of a magnitude that formed the relatively thick sand and shell layer is a rare event at this site within the last 3000 years. Given the tentative but intriguing results of this study, further research at this site is warranted to better define the stratigraphy and age of the apparent washover deposit. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Sandy beaches are highly dynamic due to the transport of sediment by waves and currents. While beach erosion is mainly driven by cross-shore currents, beach recovery is driven by the onshore-directed transport of sediment by incoming short waves. This latter process is complex and often inaccurately predicted by morphodynamic models. This is partly because of the omission of the effects of bed form-induced and surface-generated turbulence on sediment pick-up in these models. In this paper, the phase relationship between the oscillatory flow, turbulence and suspended sediment concentration was investigated based on field measurements obtained beneath shoaling waves, spilling breakers and surf bores. Wave-averaged and intra-wave variability in turbulence and suspended sediment concentration were analysed on a wave-by-wave basis, where individual waves were extracted and then grouped according to relative wave height. Beneath shoaling waves, small but steep wave ripples were shown to affect the phasing of suspended sediment concentration and to cause an offshore-directed short-wave suspended sediment flux. Beneath spilling breakers and surf bores, sediment was mainly stirred under the wave crest and the short-wave suspended sediment flux was onshore-directed. Based on the analysed data, several mechanisms were suggested to cause sediment stirring: friction between the wave orbital motion and the seabed, penetration of surface-generated turbulence towards the seabed, increased bed shear stress at the wave front due to acceleration skewness, and during conditions with strong undertow, wave-current interactions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Beach erosion mechanisms were investigated for Kujukuri Beach, a 60-km-long sandy beach facing the Pacific Ocean, located in Chiba Prefecture, Japan. The longshore sediment transport rate was estimated using aerial photograph analysis, physical property measurements of beach sediment samples, and land subsidence estimation owing to paleo-groundwater pumping. Alongshore distribution of sediment grain size and thermoluminescence intensity revealed that the longshore sand transport from both ends would meet at x = 40 km, where x denotes the distance from the north end of the beach. Sediment loss caused by the land subsidence was estimated at 130,000 m3/year in the south, which was observed to play an essential role in the beach erosion, as compared with the relatively small amount of sediment transport in the south. An effective and comprehensive countermeasure was proposed in which the land subsidence could be mitigated through the restoration of pumped water in the coastal zone. The countermeasure was found effective in decreasing the sediment loss by 85,000 m3/year, thus changing the sediment budget of the whole Kujukuri Beach positive. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

We develop an idealised one dimensional (cross-shore) morphodynamic model that couples wave, tide and sediment dynamics to study the effect and evolution of a shoreface nourishment. Sediment fluxes driven by wave skewness, wave asymmetry (both onshore) and return flow (offshore) are considered. With the aid of new analytical expressions for the skewness and standard deviation of wave velocity and acceleration, sediment fluxes are calculated. Nourishment is viewed as a perturbation to the system in equilibrium that is subject to the divergence of the perturbed sediment flux and a gravity driven diffusion term. Depending on the location, a nourishment may provide a feeder or lee effect. In moderate and mild wave conditions, the evolution of a nourishment primarily depends on the relative location of nourishment and break point. Placed well offshore of the break point, the nourishment induces an overall positive perturbation in sediment flux, resulting in onshore migration (feeder effect). Located closer to the break point, the nourishment induces an earlier wave breaking, which dissipates part of the wave energy (lee effect), leading to a negative sediment flux perturbation around this break point and a positive sediment flux perturbation around the break point of the un-nourished beach. Depending on the intensity of the earlier breaking, the nourishment either migrates onshore (weak break) or splits into onshore and offshore moving parts (strong break). The relative importance of the diffusion term and the divergence of perturbed sediment flux may lead to a primarily migrating or decaying evolution of nourishment. In storm wave conditions, the nourishment tends to move offshore due to the predominance of return flow driven sediment flux. The sensitivity to wave period and tide are also studied. Model results are consistent with observations, as well as prevailing theory on cross-shore sediment transport. • An idealised one dimensional (cross-shore) morphodynamic model that couples wave, tide and sediment dynamics is developed to study the e_ect and evolution of a shoreface nourishment. • In moderate and mild wave conditions, a nourishment placed well o_shore from the break point induces an overall positive perturbation in sediment ux, resulting in onshore migration (feeder e_ect). Located closer to the break point, the nourishment induces an earlier wave breaking, which dissipates part of the wave energy (lee e_ect), resulting in onshore migration (weak break) or splitting into onshore and o_shore moving parts (strong break). In storm wave conditions, nourishment moves o_shore due to the predominance of return-ow-driven sediment ux. • Tide a_ects nourishment evolution through shifting the relative location of the nourishment and break point. The sediment dynamics at low tide dominate the evolution of the nourishment. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Variations in shoreline trend was examined for 21 stations between Manuvai (in the west) and Vijayapathi (in the east), along the southern tip of India. Multispectral satellite data of Landsat MSS (9th Feb, 1973), Landsat TM 5 (4th Sep 2001) and Landsat ETM+ (21st Jan 2006) were used to assess the temporal dynamics of shoreline trend present in the region. The images were pretreated by radiometric calibration in order to avoid the temporal deviation of spatial and spectral information. The exact shorelines were estimated by two steps of image processing techniques: Normalized Difference Water Index (NDWI) is used to classify the land and sea water by and Sobal edge detection techniques are used to extract boundary line between land and water body. The rate of changes between the period 1973 and 2006 has shown that, the average shoreline rate is accelerated in the study area at 1.78 m/year. However, unusual shoreline changes ranging from 3.60 m/year to 15.60 m/year has been observed between the period 2001 and 2006 due to the impact of Tsunami. The station-wise shoreline data endorsed that Chinna muttom to Visvanarayanapuram and Lipuram are under continuous depositional process whereas other stations are under erosional process. This result shows that littoral sediment movement, with respect to the wave climate and anthropogenic activities are the predominant factors that affect the shoreline trend and sediment drift prevailing in the coast. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coasts vary in their composition and the physical processes that affect them. However, their nature and behavior have similarities. Presently, the majority of coasts worldwide are eroding. The rapidly increasing threat of global warming and the resulting rise in sea level can accelerate coastal erosion. The nearly 2 km coastline in the port city of Puerto Cabello in Venezuela, to the west of the island Goaigoaza, was taken as a case study. The long-term state of the beach was assessed by considering the credits and debits of sand that pass through the coastal system. In the study, the net longshore sediment transport rate in the west of the salient was westward and Qin < Qout, denoting that beach erosion will occur in this particular area. Through field investigations and theoretical analysis, it can be preliminarily concluded that the beaches in the study area are slightly eroded. However, a long-term study on the current profile is essential to arrive at a decisive conclusion. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]