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The Saudi Arabian tourism sector is growing, and its economy has flourished over the last decades. This has resulted in numerous coastal developments close to large economic centers, while many more are proposed or planned. The coastal developments have influenced the behavior of the shoreline in the past. Here we undertake a national assessment on the state of the coast of Saudi Arabia based on recent data sets on historic and future shoreline positions. While at national scale the shoreline is found to be stable over the last three decades, the Red Sea coast shows a regional-mean retreat rate while the Gulf coast shows a regional-mean prograding behavior. Detailed analysis of the temporal evolution of shoreline position at selected locations show that human interventions may have accelerated shoreline retreat along adjacent shorelines, some of which are Marine Protected Areas. Furthermore, reef-fronted coastal sections have a mean accretive shoreline change rate, while the open coast shows a mean retreat rate. Future shoreline projections under RCP 4.5 and RCP 8.5 show that large parts of the shoreline may experience an accelerated retreat or a change in its regime from either stable or sprograding to retreating. Under the high emission RCP 8.5 scenario, the length of coastline projected to retreat more than doubles along the Red Sea coast, and approximately triples along the Gulf coast in 2100. At national scale, the Saudi Arabian coastline is projected to experience regional-mean retreats of ~30 m and of ~130 m by 2050 and 2100 under both RCPs considered in this study. These results indicate that effective adaptation strategies will be required to protect areas of ecological and economic value, and that climate resilience should be a key consideration in planned or proposed coastal interventions., Coastal Engineering

Dutch coastal policy aims for a safe, economically strong and attractive coast. This is achieved by maintaining the part of the coast that support these functions; the coastal foundation. The coastal foundation is maintained by means of sand nourishments. Up to now, it has been assumed that net transports across the coastal foundation's offshore boundary at the 20 m depth contour are negligibly small. In the framework of the Coastal Genesis 2.0 program we investigated sand transports across this boundary and across other depth contours at the lower shoreface. This paper presents a computationally efficient approach to compute the annual sand transport rates at the Dutch lower shoreface. It is based on the 3D Dutch Continental Shelf Model with Flexible Mesh (3D DCSM-FM), a wave transformation tool and a 1DV sand transport module. We validate the hydrodynamic input against field measurements and present flow, wave and sand transport computations for the years 2013–2017. Our computations show that the net annual sand transport rates along the Dutch coast are determined by peak tidal velocities (and asymmetry thereof), density driven residual flows, wind driven residual flows and waves. The annual mean alongshore transports vary along the continuous 20 m depth contour. The computed total cross-shore transports are onshore directed over the continuous 20 m, 18 m and 16 m depth contours and increase with decreasing water depth. The effect of density difference and wind on the 3D structure of the flow and on the sand transports cannot be neglected along the Dutch lower shoreface. Our computations show that excluding the effect of density results in a significant decrease of the onshore directed transports. Also switching off wind largely counteracts this effect. The net cross-shore transport is determined by a delicate balance between gross onshore and offshore transports, where wave conditions are important. We show an example for Scheveningen where the net cross-shore, Coastal Engineering

The Sand Motor is a very large (20 million m3) nourishment constructed along the coast in The Netherlands. The huge volume of sand is redistributed along the coast by natural forces stemming from tidal currents and waves. For environmental evaluation of this large construction, the benthic subtidal fauna has been sampled prior to the construction of the Sand Motor, and at 1, 2, 4, and 6 years after construction. Although some significant differences between years were detected, overall the total density, total biomass and average number of species per sample were surprisingly constant over this time period. However, large differences were found in the species accumulation curves over samples, and in the rank-biomass and rank-abundance plots. These were related to two important trends in the communities. First, the invasive mollusk Ensis leei, the biomass dominant in the years before construction of the Sand Motor, dwindled in importance in later years. Recruitment of the species failed, but it is unclear whether, and how, this is related to the construction of the Sand Motor. Second, the correlation structure between depth, grain size, bottom shear stress due to waves and currents, which is very tight along a linear coast, was disrupted by the Sand Motor. The community composition was shown to depend strongly on these physical factors. The nature of the dependencies did not change, but the range of different combinations of factors after construction of the Sand Motor was widely larger than before. Although samples had similar number of species per sample before and after construction, the average difference between samples after construction was much larger than before. The Sand Motor is a very large construction, leading to loss of a substantial area (order 100 ha) of submarine area, which recovers at a long time scale. Total disturbance of benthos by burial, expressed as area∗(time before full recovery) was shown to be similar for the

In recent years, satellite imagery has shown its potential to support the sustainable management of land, water, and natural resources. In particular, it can provide key information about the properties and behavior of sandy beaches and the surrounding vegetation, improving the ecomor-phological understanding and modeling of coastal dynamics. Although satellite image processing usually demands high memory and computational resources, free online platforms such as Google Earth Engine (GEE) have recently enabled their users to leverage cloud-based tools and handle big satellite data. In this technical note, we describe an algorithm to classify the coastal land cover and retrieve relevant information from Sentinel-2 and Landsat image collections at specific times or in a multitemporal way: the extent of the beach and vegetation strips, the statistics of the grass cover, and the position of the shoreline and the vegetation–sand interface. Furthermore, we validate the algorithm through both quantitative and qualitative methods, demonstrating the goodness of the derived classification (accuracy of approximately 90%) and showing some examples about the use of the algorithm’s output to study coastal physical and ecological dynamics. Finally, we discuss the algorithm’s limitations and potentialities in light of its scaling for global analyses., Coastal Engineering

Beach nourishment — the addition of sand to increase the width or sand volume of the beach — is a widespread coastal management technique to counteract coastal erosion. Globally, rising sea levels, storms and diminishing sand supplies threaten beaches and the recreational, ecosystem, groundwater and flood protection services they provide. Consequently, beach nourishment practices have evolved from focusing on maximizing the time sand stays on the beach to also encompassing human safety and water recreation, groundwater dynamics and ecosystem impacts. In this Perspective, we present a multidisciplinary overview of beach nourishment, discussing physical aspects of beach nourishment alongside ecological and socio-economic impacts. The future of beach nourishment practices will vary depending on local vulnerability, sand availability, financial resources, government regulations and efficiencies, and societal perceptions of environmental risk, recreational uses, ecological conservation and social justice. We recommend co-located, multidisciplinary research studies on the combined impacts of nourishments, and explorations of various designs to guide these globally diverse nourishment practices., Accepted Author Manuscript, Coastal Engineering

The Sand Motor is a very large (20 million m3) nourishment constructed along the coast in The Netherlands. The huge volume of sand is redistributed along the coast by natural forces stemming from tidal currents and waves. For environmental evaluation of this large construction, the benthic subtidal fauna has been sampled prior to the construction of the Sand Motor, and at 1, 2, 4, and 6 years after construction. Although some significant differences between years were detected, overall the total density, total biomass and average number of species per sample were surprisingly constant over this time period. However, large differences were found in the species accumulation curves over samples, and in the rank-biomass and rank-abundance plots. These were related to two important trends in the communities. First, the invasive mollusk Ensis leei, the biomass dominant in the years before construction of the Sand Motor, dwindled in importance in later years. Recruitment of the species failed, but it is unclear whether, and how, this is related to the construction of the Sand Motor. Second, the correlation structure between depth, grain size, bottom shear stress due to waves and currents, which is very tight along a linear coast, was disrupted by the Sand Motor. The community composition was shown to depend strongly on these physical factors. The nature of the dependencies did not change, but the range of different combinations of factors after construction of the Sand Motor was widely larger than before. Although samples had similar number of species per sample before and after construction, the average difference between samples after construction was much larger than before. The Sand Motor is a very large construction, leading to loss of a substantial area (order 100 ha) of submarine area, which recovers at a long time scale. Total disturbance of benthos by burial, expressed as area∗(time before full recovery) was shown to be similar for the San, Environmental Fluid Mechanics, Coastal Engineering

Policy Analysis, Coastal Engineering

A common measure to mitigate erosion along sandy beaches is the implementation of sand nourishments. The design and societal acceptance of such a soft mitigation measure demands information on the expected evolution at various time scales ranging from a storm event to multiple decades. Process-based morphodynamic models are increasingly applied to obtain detailed information on temporal behaviour. This paper discusses the process-based morphodynamic model applied to the Sand Motor and how the morphodynamic forecasts have benefitted from the findings of an interdisciplinary research program called NatureCoast. The starting point is the morphodynamic prediction of the Sand Motor made for an Environmental Impact Assessment in 2008 before construction began. After the construction, the model computations were optimized using the first-year field measurements and insights by applying advanced model features. Next, an integrated model was developed that seamlessly predicts the morphodynamics in both the subaqueous and subaerial domains of the Sand Motor. Decadal predictions illustrate the need to be able to resolve the marine and aeolian processes simultaneously in one modelling framework in the case of dynamic coastal landscapes. Finally, a novel morphodynamic acceleration technique was developed that allows for predicting the morphodynamics for multiple decades while incorporating storm events in one simulation. Combining the above-mentioned developments has led to a unique, open-source, process-based landscape tool for (complex) coastal sandy systems, which can stimulate further collaboration between research communities. Moreover, this work demonstrates the evolution from mono- to interdisciplinary forecasts of coastal evolution., Vol. 7 (2021): Building with Nature perspectives: Cross-disciplinary BwN approaches in coastal regions. ISBN 978-94-6366-379-3, Coastal Engineering

Forecasting shoreline evolution for sandy coasts is important for sustainable coastal management, given the present-day increasing anthropogenic pressures and a changing future climate. Here, we evaluate eight different time-series forecasting methods for predicting future shorelines derived from historic satellite-derived shorelines. Analyzing more than 37,000 transects around the globe, we find that traditional forecast methods altogether with some of the evaluated probabilistic Machine Learning (ML) time-series forecast algorithms, outperform Ordinary Least Squares (OLS) predictions for the majority of the sites. When forecasting seven years ahead, we find that these algorithms generate better predictions than OLS for 54% of the transect sites, producing forecasts with, on average, 29% smaller Mean Squared Error (MSE). Importantly, this advantage is shown to exist over all considered forecast horizons, i.e., from 1 up to 11 years. Although the ML algorithms do not produce significantly better predictions than traditional time-series forecast methods, some proved to be significantly more efficient in terms of computation time. We further provide insight in how these ML algorithms can be improved so that they can be expected to outperform not only OLS regression, but also the traditional time-series forecast methods. These forecasting algorithms can be used by coastal engineers, managers, and scientists to generate future shoreline prediction at a global level and derive conclusions thereof., Coastal Engineering

Sandy beaches occupy more than one-third of the global coastline1 and have high socioeconomic value related to recreation, tourism and ecosystem services2. Beaches are the interface between land and ocean, providing coastal protection from marine storms and cyclones3. However the presence of sandy beaches cannot be taken for granted, as they are under constant change, driven by meteorological4,5, geological6 and anthropogenic factors1,7. A substantial proportion of the world’s sandy coastline is already eroding1,7, a situation that could be exacerbated by climate change8,9. Here, we show that ambient trends in shoreline dynamics, combined with coastal recession driven by sea level rise, could result in the near extinction of almost half of the world’s sandy beaches by the end of the century. Moderate GHG emission mitigation could prevent 40% of shoreline retreat. Projected shoreline dynamics are dominated by sea level rise for the majority of sandy beaches, but in certain regions the erosive trend is counteracted by accretive ambient shoreline changes; for example, in the Amazon, East and Southeast Asia and the north tropical Pacific. A substantial proportion of the threatened sandy shorelines are in densely populated areas, underlining the need for the design and implementation of effective adaptive measures., Accepted Author Manuscript, Coastal Engineering

Natural World Heritage Sites (NWHS), which are of Outstanding Universal Value, are increasingly threatened by natural and anthropogenic pressures. This is especially true for coastal NWHS, which are additionally subject to erosion and flooding. This paper assesses shoreline change from 1984 to 2016 within the boundaries of 67 designated sites, providing a first global consistent assessment of its drivers. It develops a transferable methodology utilising new satellite-derived global shoreline datasets, which are classified based on linearity of change against time and compared with global datasets of geomorphology (topography, land cover, coastal type, and lithology), climate variability and sea-level change. Significant shoreline change is observed on 14% of 52 coastal NWHS shorelines that show the largest recessional and accretive trends (means of -3.4 m yr-1 and 3.5 m yr-1, respectively). These rapid shoreline changes are found in low-lying shorelines (<1 m elevation) composed of unconsolidated sediments in vegetated tidal coastal systems (means of -7.7 m yr-1 and 12.5 m yr-1), and vegetated tidal deltas at the mouth of large river systems (means of -6.9 m yr-1 and 11 m yr-1). Extreme shoreline changes occur as a result of redistribution of sediment driven by a combination of geomorphological conditions with (1) specific natural coastal morphodynamics such as opening of inlets (e.g. Río Plátano Biosphere Reserve) or gradients of alongshore sediment transport (e.g. Namib Sea) and (2) direct or indirect human interferences with natural coastal processes such as sand nourishment (e.g. Wadden Sea) and damming of river sediments upstream of a delta (e.g. Danube Delta). The most stable soft coasts are associated with the protection of coral reef ecosystems (e.g. Great Barrier Reef) which may be degraded/destroyed by climate change or human stress in the future. A positive correlation between shoreli, Coastal Engineering

Sand is the second-most used natural resource behind water and will be under increasingly high demand in coming decades. One of the reasons for this is that, worldwide, sand is more and more applied to counteract beach erosion. This thesis presents new techniques in remote sensing and numerical modelling to better understand beach erosion and predict the dynamics of our sandy coastlines. To this end, it explores the crossing of three types of borders. First, international borders are crossed in a global assessment of historic beach dynamics using satellite imagery. Second, the boundaries between model time scales - from storms to decadal times - are dissolved by means of a new morphodynamic acceleration technique. Finally, the developed seamless modelling approach enables to cross the ever-changing boundary between water and land, where sand moves from the wet to the dry domain and vice versa. This work results in a landscaping model that can better forecast the future behavior of sandy beaches in a changing climate., Coastal Engineering

To actually design for sandy solutions, designers need to know the key factors that drive ecosystem services. This section will look at the key factors that drive the three main ecosystem services of coastal defense, recreation and nature development, followed by a description of how to evaluate these. Finally, an example of arguable the most important design factor is discussed., Coastal Engineering

Coastal zones have long attracted humans and human activities, due to the economic opportunities they offer, their aesthetic value, and the diverse ecosystem services they provide. As a result, coastal zones throughout the world have become heavily populated and developed, with 15 of the world’s 20 megacities (population >10 million) being in the coastal zone. The global coastline is spatially varied and comprises different coastal landforms, such as barrier islands, sea cliffs, sandy coasts, tidal flats, and river deltas. Of these different coastline types, the sandy coasts are highly dynamic in time and space and constitute a substantial part of the world’s coastline. Sandy coasts are highly developed and densely populated due to the amenities, Coastal Engineering

Whether a coastal area is suitable for beach nourishments and can induce a growth in fresh groundwater resources depends on the appropriateness of the intended site for beach nourishments, and the attainable growth in fresh groundwater resources. In this study we presume that all eroding sandy beaches are suitable for large beach nourishments, and focus on the impact of these nourishments on fresh groundwater in various coastal settings. The growth in fresh groundwater resources – as a consequence of the construction of a beach nourishment – was quantified with 2-D variable-density groundwater models, for a global range in geological parameters and hydrological processes. Our simulation results suggest that large beach nourishments will likely lead to a (temporary) increase of fresh groundwater resources in most settings. However, for a substantial growth in fresh groundwater, the coastal site should receive sufficient groundwater recharge, consist of sediment with a low to medium hydraulic conductivity, and be subject to a limited number of land-surface inundations. Our global analysis shows that 17% of shorelines may consist of erosive sandy beaches, and of these sites 50% have a high potential suitability. This shows a considerable potential worldwide to combine coastal protection with an increase in fresh groundwater resources., Coastal Engineering

Thirty one percent (31%) of the world's coastline consists of sandy beaches and dunes that form a natural defense protecting the hinterland from flooding. A common measure to mitigate erosion along sandy beaches is the implementation of sand nourishments. The design and acceptance of such a mitigating measure require information on the expected evolution at time scales from storms to decades. Process-based morphodynamic models are increasingly applied, together with morphodynamic acceleration techniques, to obtain detailed information on this wide scale of ranges. This study shows that techniques for the acceleration of the morphological evolution can have a significant impact on the simulated evolution and dispersion of sandy interventions. A calibrated Delft3D model of the Sand Engine mega-nourishment is applied to compare different acceleration techniques, focusing on accuracy and computational times. Results show that acceleration techniques using representative (schematized) wave conditions are not capable of accurately reproducing the morphological response in the first two years. The best reproduction of the morphological behavior of the first five years is obtained by the brute force simulations. Applying input filtering and a compression factor provides similar accuracy yet with a factor five gain in computational cost. An attractive method for the medium to long time scales, which further reduces computational costs, is a method that uses representative wave conditions based on gross longshore transports, while showing similar results as the benchmark simulation. Erosional behavior is captured well in all considered techniques with variations in volumes of about 1 million m3 after three decades. The spatio-temporal variability of the predicted alongshore and cross-shore distribution of the morphological evolution however have a strong dependency on the selected acceleration technique. A new technique, called 'brute force merged', which incorporates the ful, Coastal Engineering

A correction to this article has been published and is linked from the HTML and PDF versions of this paper. The error has not been fixed in the paper., Coastal Engineering

The Sand Engine is a 21.5 million m3 experimental mega-nourishment project that was built in 2011 along the Dutch coast. This intervention created a discontinuity in the previous straight sandy coastline, altering the local hydrodynamics in a region that is influenced by the buoyant plume generated by the Rhine River. This work investigates the response of the cross-shore stratified tidal flow to the coastal protrusion created by the Sand Engine emplacement by using a 13 h velocity and density survey. Observations document the development of strong baroclinic-induced cross-shore exchange currents dictated by the intrusion of the river plume fronts as well as the classic tidal straining which are found to extend further into the nearshore (from 12 to 6m depth), otherwise believed to be a mixed zone. Estimates of the centrifugal acceleration directly after construction of the Sand Engine showed that the curvature effects were approximately 2 times stronger, suggesting that the Sand Engine might have played a role in controlling the cross-shore exchange currents during the first three years after the completion of the nourishment. Presently, the curvature effects are minute., Coastal Engineering, Environmental Fluid Mechanics

Feeder nourishments, where sand quantities of O (10 million m³) are placed locally to feed adjacent coastal stretches, are suggested nowadays as an alternative for local, smaller-scale nourishments (< 1 million m³). These feeder nourishments rely on natural forces to spread the sediment. While processes that govern this spreading such as tidal flows, waves and wind are well known, the quantification of associated sediment transport processes remains a scientific challenge. Due to the lack of knowledge with respect to sediment spreading, no tools exist to optimize the design of feeder nourishments. The Sand Engine project that is implemented in the Netherlands in 2011 consists of 21.5 million m³ of nourished sediment, and is the largest existing feeder nourishment (Stive et al., 2013). In this paper the morphological development of the Sand Engine mega feeder nourishment and the adjacent coastal sections is presented. The alongshore extent of the analysis is 17 km and spans a coastal cell between 2 harbor entrances., Coastal Engineering

Coastal zones constitute one of the most heavily populated and developed land zones in the world. Despite the utility and economic benefits that coasts provide, there is no reliable global-scale assessment of historical shoreline change trends. Here, via the use of freely available optical satellite images captured since 1984, in conjunction with sophisticated image interrogation and analysis methods, we present a global-scale assessment of the occurrence of sandy beaches and rates of shoreline change therein. Applying pixel-based supervised classification, we found that 31% of the world’s ice-free shoreline are sandy. The application of an automated shoreline detection method to the sandy shorelines thus identified resulted in a global dataset of shoreline change rates for the 33 year period 1984–2016. Analysis of the satellite derived shoreline data indicates that 24% of the world’s sandy beaches are eroding at rates exceeding 0.5 m/yr, while 28% are accreting and 48% are stable. The majority of the sandy shorelines in marine protected areas are eroding, raising cause for serious concern., Coastal Engineering, Water Resources

Measured trends and variability in shoreline position are used by coastal managers, scientists and engineers to understand and monitor coastal systems. This paper presents a new and generic method for automated shoreline detection from the largely unexplored collection of publicly available satellite imagery. The position of the obtained Satellite Derived Shoreline (SDS) is tested for accuracy for 143 images against high resolution in-situ data along a coastal stretch near the Sand Motor, a well-documented mega-scale nourishment along the Dutch coast. In this assessment, we quantify the effects of potential inaccuracy drivers such as the presence of clouds and wave-induced foam. The overall aim of this study is to verify whether the SDS is suitable to study structural coastline trends for coastal engineering practice. In the ideal case of a cloud free satellite image without the presence of waves, with limited morphological changes between the time of image acquisition and the date of the in-situ measurement, the accuracy of the SDS is with subpixel precision (smaller than 10–30 m, depending on the satellite mission) and depends on intertidal beach slope and image pixel resolution. For the highest resolution images we find an average offset of 1 m between the SDS position and the in-situ shoreline in the considered domain. The accuracy deteriorates in the presence of clouds and/or waves on the image, satellite sensor corrections and georeferencing errors. The case study showed that especially the presence of clouds can lead to a considerable seaward offset of the SDS of multiple pixels (e.g. order 200 m). Wave-induced foam results in seaward offsets in the order of 40 m. These effects can largely be overcome by creating composite images, which results in a continuous dataset with subpixel precision (10–30 m, depending on the satellite mission). This implies that structural trends can be detected for coastlines that have changed with at least the pi, Green Open Access added to TU Delft Institutional Repository ‘You share, we take care!’ – Taverne project https://www.openaccess.nl/en/you-share-we-take-care Otherwise as indicated in the copyright section: the publisher is the copyright holder of this work and the author uses the Dutch legislation to make this work public., Coastal Engineering, Rivers, Ports, Waterways and Dredging Engineering, Environmental Fluid Mechanics

Large perturbations in the coastline, such as the 'Sand Motor' nourishment (∼21 million m3) at the Holland coast, can initiate considerable spatial and temporal changes in the median grain size (D50) of the sea bed on the lower shoreface. The relevance of hydrodynamic conditions for the development of the heterogeneity in D50 at large-scale nourishments was assessed with a numerical model (Delft3D), which required a validation against 2.5 years of D50 measurements. A good representation of the observed spatial pattern of D50 was obtained independent of a 2DH or 3D approach and initial condition for the D50 of the bed. Five sediment size fractions and a multi-layer administration of the bed composition were used. The extent and magnitude of the coarsening of the bed is related to the velocity of the horizontal tide, while a far less pronounced coarsening takes place during energetic conditions (i.e. Hm0≥ 3 m). Differential suspension behaviour between the size fractions, which are all mobilized at the bed, causes a preferential transport of fine sediment (in alongshore direction) away from the Sand Motor at the lower shoreface (i.e. seaward of MSL -6 m). Storm conditions may induce a partial removal of the coarse top-layer due to mobilization of all of the size fractions and mixing with the relatively fine substrate material. Simulations also show that transport of the fine sand fraction extents to much deeper water than for the medium and coarse sand fractions. Models with multiple sediment fractions are therefore required for the assessment of environmental impacts of large-scale coastal structures or land reclamation's and sediment transport on the lower shoreface., Coastal Engineering

Rivers, Ports, Waterways and Dredging Engineering, Coastal Engineering

Coastal Engineering

This study presents some recent developments in coastal morphological modeling focusing on flexible meshes, flexible coupling between models operating at different time scales, and a recently developed morphodynamic model for the intertidal and dry beach. This integrated modeling approach is applied to the Sand Engine mega nourishment in The Netherlands to illustrate the added-values of this integrated approach. A seamlessly coupled modeling system for Delft3D and AeoLiS has been developed and applied to compute the first years of evolution of the Sand Engine, both for the subaqueous and subaerial areas. The subaqueous bed level changes have been computed with the new Flexible Mesh version of Delft3D, resulting in comparable accuracy levels as to the standard Delft3D version. The integrated morphodynamic prediction of both subaqueous and subaerial reveals a qualitative behavior which is very similar to observations. Model results confirm that after the first year after construction the sand supply for aeolian transports is predominantly from the intertidal area. The AeoLiS model results indicate a significant intertidal erosion volume of about 230,000 m3 over the five year period, which is a not to be neglected volume, especially in multiyear or decadal predictions. Interestingly, the model results show that the spit, developed by the wave-related processes, is also subject to aeolian transports acting on the emerged spit during lower tides. The seamlessly coupled models are now able to combine the dry beach behaviour with subaqueous morphodynamic evolution, which is important in medium-term to decadal morphodynamic predictions but also relevant for designing such sandy solutions incorporating lakes, lagoons, and relief., Coastal Engineering

Expanding knowledge concerning the close entanglement between subtidal and subaerial processes in coastal environments initiated the development of the open-source Windsurf modeling framework that enables us to simulate multi-fraction sediment transport due to subtidal and subaerial processes simultaneously. The Windsurf framework couples separate model cores for subtidal morphodynamics related to waves and currents and storms and aeolian sediment transport. The Windsurf framework bridges three gaps in our ability to model long-term coastal morphodynamics: differences in time scales, land/water boundary and differences in meshes. The Windsurf framework is applied to the Sand Motor mega-nourishment. The Sand Motor is virtually permanentlyexposed to tides, waves and wind and is consequently highly dynamic. In order to understand the complex morphological behavior of the Sand Motor, it is vital to take both subtidal and subaerial processes into account. The ultimate aim of this study is to identify governing processes in aeolian sediment transport estimates in coastal environments and improve the accuracy of long-term coastal morphodynamic modeling. At the Sand Motor beach armoring occurs on the dry beach. In contrast to the dry beach, no armor layer can be established in the intertidal zone due to periodic flooding. Consequently, during low tide non-armored intertidal beaches are susceptible for wind erosion and, although moist, may provide a larger aeolian sediment supply than the vast dry beach areas. Hence, subtidal processes significantly influence the subaerial morphology and both need to be accounted for to understand the long-term aeolian morphodynamic behavior of the Sand Motor., Coastal Engineering

The Sand Motor is a pilot project of a ‘mega-nourishment’ built in the Dutch coast in 2011. In order to understand which conditions reshape those mega-nourishments the influence of different types of forcing on the longshore sediment transport along the Sand Motor has been assessed in this paper using a process-based model. The use of numerical simulations enables the independent assessment of the different processes influencing the sediment transport magnitudes and direction. A calibrated depth-averaged model of the Sand Motor was used in order to compute the sediment transport rates around the nourishment. Results show that the overall evolution of the Sand Motor is event-driven, as the combination of energetic wave conditions, strong winds and high storm surge levels can lead to high sediment transport rates and therefore intense erosion., Hydraulic Engineering, Civil Engineering and Geosciences

A hampering factor in the application of morphodynamic models is the potential excessive time needed to complete a simulation. One way to upscale a model run is the use of a morphological factor, or MORFAC. In this paper, we investigate the upper limit to the value of the MORFAC as a function of model geometry and timestep for a schematized case of tidal flow, and we suggest a way to make a conservative estimate of this value using a morphology-based CFL condition., Hydraulic Engineering, Civil Engineering and Geosciences

A variety of uncertainty sources are inherent in process-based morphodynamic modelling applications. There is an increasing demand for the quantification of these uncertainties. This contribution introduces a probabilistic-morphodynamic (PM) modelling framework that enables this quantification. The PM modelling framework provides a systematic approach, while also lowering the required effort for inclusion of uncertainty quantification in morphodynamic model studies. Applicability and added value is shown using a pilot application to the Holland coast., Hydraulic Engineering, Civil Engineering and Geosciences

Tidal inlets are of great societal importance and are also the most morphologically dynamic regions in the coastal zone. Therefore, they are of great scientific interest. Their behaviour is governed by the delicate balance of oceanic processes such as tides, waves and mean sea level (MSL), and fluvial/estuarine processes such as riverflow. All of these processes can be significantly affected by climate change (CC) processes, which may result in negative physical impacts such as inlet closure/relocation, creation of new inlets, erosion of the coast adjacent to the inlet etc. Although CC impacts on some large tidal inlets (e.g. Wadden Sea inlets) have received some attention recently, the potential CC impacts on small tidal inlets (STIs) remain virtually unknown to date. Furthermore, whether currently available predictive tools are capable of simulating CC impacts on these systems also remains unknown. These knowledge gaps are a serious threat to effective adaptation to CC in STI environments. Just, this study attempts to investigate the potential range of CC impacts on the stability (i.e. closed/open state and locational stability) of STIs via the application of a sophisticated process based morphodynamic model (Delft3D) to strategically selected schematised inlet morphologies and forcing conditions.Results indicate that CC driven variations in system forcing are likely have profound impacts on inlet stability and also show that a process based coastal morphodynamic model (eg. Delft3D) is suitable for investigating potential CC impacts at small tidal inlets.

The Netherlands’ strategy to combat coastal erosion since 1990 has been through nourishment, initially as beach nourishments but more and more as shoreface nourishments. In the light of sea level rise projections the yearly nourishment magnitudes continue to increase. In view of this an innovative soft engineering intervention, comprising an unprecedented 21 Mm3 sand nourishment known as the Sand Engine, has recently been implemented in the Netherlands. The Sand Engine nourishment is a pilot project to test the effectiveness and efficiency of a local mega-nourishment as a measure to account for the anticipated increased coastal recession in this century. The proposed concept, a single mega-nourishment, once every 20 years, is expected to be more efficient and effective in the long term than traditional beach and shoreface nourishments, presently being used at the Dutch coast with typically a three to five year interval. While the judgement is still out on this globally unique intervention, if proven successful, it may well become a generic solution for combating sea level rise driven coastal recession on open and vulnerable coasts., Hydraulic Engineering, Civil Engineering and Geosciences

The Netherlands’ strategy to combat coastal erosion since 1990 has been through nourishment, initially as beach nourishments but more and more as shoreface nourishments. In the light of sea level rise projections the yearly nourishment magnitudes continue to increase. In view of this an innovative soft engineering intervention, comprising an unprecedented 21 Mm3 sand nourishment known as the Sand Engine, has recently been implemented in the Netherlands. The Sand Engine nourishment is a pilot project to test the effectiveness and efficiency of a local meganourishment as a measure to account for the anticipated increased coastal recession in this century. The proposed concept, a single mega-nourishment, once every 20 years, is expected to be more efficient and effective in the long term than traditional beach and shoreface nourishments, presently being used at the Dutch coast with typically a three to five year interval. While the judgement is still out on this globally unique intervention, if proven successful, it may well become a generic solution for combating sea level rise driven coastal recession on open and vulnerable coasts., Hydraulic Engineering, Civil Engineering and Geosciences