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The oil obtained from the seeds of Citrullus lanatus (Thunb.) Matsum. & Nakai (Kalahari melon) is highly sought after in the cosmetic industry as a prized ingredient to maintain healthy skin. Seed oils contain a range of fatty acids that may be beneficial upon topical application to the skin. The quantification of the fatty acids was done using two dimensional gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (GC × GC–MS). The safety (irritancy potential test) and efficacy (transepidermal water loss (TEWL), hydration and occlusivity tests) of topically applied Kalahari melon seed oil on healthy Caucasian adult female volunteers (n = 20) was determined. Skin irritation and dryness were determined by visual scoring using a 2 × magnifying lamp while Chromameter®, Aquaflux® and Corneometer® instruments were used to quantify the irritancy level, TEWL and hydrating properties of Kalahari melon oil, respectively. The occlusive effect of the oil was assessed using Aquaflux® and Corneometer® instruments. Four major fatty acids, linoleic acid (51.4%), oleic acid (36.7%), stearic acid (6.3%) and palmitic acid (5.6%), were quantified using comprehensive GC × GC–MS analysis. Kalahari melon seed oil was non-irritant to the skin when topically applied (observed at 24, 48, 72 and 96 h). Aquaflux® and Corneometer® results showed that the application of Kalahari melon seed oil resulted in reduced TEWL and increased moisture retention. The non-irritant, hydrating and moisturising effects of Kalahari melon seed oil observed in this study justifies its incorporation into cosmetic products.

Recently there has been a renewed impetus in the search for novel ingredients to be used in the cosmetic industry and Baobab (Adansonia digitata L., Malvaceae) seed oil has received high interest. In this study, a commercial Baobab seed oil sample was characterised (fatty acid content) using GCxGC-ToF-MS and a pilot study on the safety and efficacy of the seed oil was performed. The safety and efficacy of Baobab seed oil after topical application was determined using healthy adult female caucasian participants (n = 20). A 2× magnifying lamp was used for visual analysis, while for monitoring and evaluation of the irritancy level, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and hydration level of the skin, Chromameter®, Aquaflux® and Corneometer® instruments, respectively, were used. In addition, Aquaflux® and Corneometer® instruments were used to assess occlusive effects. Thirteen methyl esters were identified using GCxGC-ToF-MS. The major fatty acids included 36.0% linoleic acid, 25.1% oleic acid and 28.8% palmitic acid with 10.1% constituting trace fatty acids. The irritancy of sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) in the patch test differed significantly compared to both de-ionised water (p

Seed oils have been used for centuries by rural communities as food, medicine, for cosmetic applications and as fuel. Recently there has been a renewed interest in these non-timber forest products (NTFPs) specifically for use in cosmetic formulations. The cosmetic industry remains under immense consumer pressure to produce innovative products for this lucrative industry. Like the pharmaceutical industry, the wellness industry turns to nature for guidance, inspiration and as a source of novel compounds to produce new consumer products. Furthermore, discerning consumers of cosmetic products are nowadays informing themselves of the validity of scientific claims made on various products. The seed oils extracted from several plant species are popularly included as ingredients in cosmetic products due to their high fatty acid composition. The information on African seed oils is scattered in literature and often published in obscure and dated manuscripts. With an emphasis on (but not restricted to) cosmetic applications the botanical aspects, uses, physico-chemical properties and oil composition as well as biological activity of six commercially important species are coherently united and reviewed in this paper and include; Adansonia digitata (baobab), Citrullus lanatus (Kalahari melon), Schinziophyton rautanenii (manketti/mungongo), Sclerocarya birrea (marula), Trichilia emetica (mafura butter) and Ximenia americana (sour plum). © 2011 SAAB. Published by Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.