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The numerical modeling of two-dimensional surface wave development under the action of wind is performed. The model is based on three-dimensional equations of potential motion with a free surface written in a surfacefollowing nonorthogonal curvilinear coordinate system in which depth is counted from a moving surface. A threedimensional Poisson equation for the velocity potential is solved iteratively. A Fourier transform method, a secondorder accuracy approximation of vertical derivatives on a stretched vertical grid and fourth-order Runge-Kutta time stepping are used. Both the input energy to waves and dissipation of wave energy are calculated on the basis of earlier developed and validated algorithms. A one-processor version of the model for PC allows us to simulate an evolution of the wave field with thousands of degrees of freedom over thousands of wave periods. A long-time evolution of a twodimensional wave structure is illustrated by the spectra of wave surface and the input and output of energy. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Results of numerical investigations, based on full dynamic equations, are presented for wave breaking in a one-dimensional environment with a wave spectrum. The breaking is defined as a process of irreversible collapse of an individual wave in physical space, and the incipient breaker is a wave that reached a dynamic condition of the limiting stability where the collapse has not started yet but is inevitable. The main attention is paid to documenting the evolution of different wave characteristics before the breaking commences. It is shown that the breaking is a localized process that rapidly develops in space and time. No single characteristic, such as wave steepness, wave height, and asymmetry, can serve as a predictor of the incipient breaking. The process of breaking is intermittent; it happens spontaneously and is individually unpredictable. The evolution of geometric, kinematic, and dynamic characteristics of the breaking wave describes the process of breaking itself rather than indicating an imminent breaking. It is shown that the criterion of breaking, valid for the breaking due to modulation instability in one-dimensional waves trains, is not universal if applied to the conditions of spectral environment. In this context, the development of algorithms for parameterization of breaking for wave prediction models and for direct wave simulations is more important. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Progression of nonlinear wave groups to breaking was studied numerically and experimentally. Evolution of such wave group parameters as a function of distance to breaking and modulation depth-the height ratio of the highest and the lowest waves in the group-was described. Numerical model results demonstrated good agreement with experimental results in describing the behavior of the distance to breaking and modulation depth as functions of initial wave steepness. It was shown that energy loss appears to be a function of the modulation depth at the breaking onset. Energy loss grows with modulation depth up to a certain threshold of the latter. It was also shown that breaking probability for wave groups with modulation depth below 2.2 is very low. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]