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This article presents studies on the evaluation of the impact of surface modification of cotton, viscose, and polyester fabrics using three techniques (flocking, layer by layer, and screen printing) with materials with electrically conductive properties on their structural, biophysical, and conductive properties. Each tested fabric is characterized by specific biophysical properties. which can be disturbed by various modification methods, therefore, the following tests were carried out in the article: optical microscopy, micro-computed tomography, guarded perspiration heating plate, air permeability, sorption and electrical conductivity tester. The use of screen printing increased the thermal resistance of the cotton woven fabric by 119%, the polyester woven fabric by 156%, and the viscose fabric by 261%. The smallest changes in thermal resistance compared to unmodified textiles were observed in layer by layer modified fabrics and are as follows: −15% (cotton woven fabric), +77% (PES woven fabric), and +80% (viscose woven fabric). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper describes methods for evaluating the thermal properties of textile materials, clothing composites, and clothing using an integrated measurement system that includes a hot plate, a multi-purpose differential conductometer, a thermal manikin, a temperature gradient measurement device, and a device for measuring the physiological parameters of the human body during the exact evaluation of garment thermal comfort. In practice, measurements were taken on four types of materials widely used in the production of conventional and protective clothing. The measurements were carried out using a hot plate and a multi-purpose differential conductometer, determining the thermal resistance of the material both in its uncompressed form and when a force was applied that was ten times greater than that needed to determine its thickness. Using a hot plate and a multi-purpose differential conductometer, thermal resistances of textile materials were assessed at different levels of material compression. On hot plates, both conduction and convection had an impact on thermal resistance, but in the multi-purpose differential conductometer, only conduction did. Moreover, a reduction in thermal resistance was observed as a result of compressing textile materials. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Since gait can be utilized to identify individuals from a far distance without their interaction and coordination, recently many gait recognition methods have been proposed. However, due to a real-world scenario of clothing changes, a degradation occurs for most of these methods. Thus in this paper, a more efficient gait recognition method is proposed to address the problem of clothing variances. First, part-based gait features are formulated from two different perspectives, i.e., the separated body parts that are more robust to clothing changes and the estimated human skeleton key-point regions. It is reasonable to formulate such features for cloth-changing gait recognition, because these two perspectives are both less vulnerable to clothing changes. Given that each feature has its own advantages and disadvantages, a more efficient gait feature is generated in this paper by assembling these two features together. Moreover, since local features are more discriminative than global features, in this paper more attention is focused on the local short-range features. Also, unlike most methods, in our method we treat the estimated key-point features as a set of word embeddings, and a transformer encoder is specifically used to learn the dependence of each correlative key-points. The robustness and effectiveness of our proposed method are certified by experiments on CASIA Gait Dataset B, and it has achieved the state-of-the-art performance on this dataset. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this paper, we tackle the problem of static 3D cloth draping on virtual human bodies. We introduce a two-stream deep network model that produces a visually plausible draping of a template cloth on virtual 3D bodies by extracting features from both the body and garment shapes. Our network learns to mimic a physics-based simulation (PBS) method while requiring two orders of magnitude less computation time. To train the network, we introduce loss terms inspired by PBS to produce plausible results and make the model collision-aware. To increase the details of the draped garment, we introduce two loss functions that penalize the difference between the curvature of the predicted cloth and PBS. Particularly, we study the impact of mean curvature normal and a novel detail-preserving loss both qualitatively and quantitatively. Our new curvature loss computes the local covariance matrices of the 3D points, and compares the Rayleigh quotients of the prediction and PBS. This leads to more details while performing favorably or comparably against the loss that considers mean curvature normal vectors in the 3D triangulated meshes. We validate our framework on four garment types for various body shapes and poses. Finally, we achieve superior performance against a recently proposed data-driven method. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

During the Ottoman Empire, which was established in Anatolia after the Seljuks, many developments were made in the name of art for 600 years. Especially thanks to the Ottoman Empire's value to the artist and art, very good works have been produced in many fields. In addition to branches such as calligraphy, illumination, miniature and marbling, fabrics, carpets and rugs, which attract the attention of the whole world in the field of textile, were also woven. The art of weaving experienced its brightest period in terms of weaving technique, color and pattern in the Ottoman Empire. It is understood that weaving, which continued to be produced traditionally in Ottoman cities, continued its existence as an important cultural element and sector. The clothes of the Ottoman sultans kept after their death and the qualities of the fabrics used in the palace convey very important information at the point of understanding the importance of weaving. The diversity and richness of the weavings and textiles produced in many documents belonging to the period can be clearly seen. In this context, this rich weaving and textile diversity has taken an important place in Turkish culture. Especially this rich variety of weaving and textiles has been painted by many painters in almost every period and has gained an important place in terms of conveying information about their periods. In this study, some of Halil Pasha's paintings in which he displayed an objective and objective approach with a realistic style, some of which are in an orientalist style, are discussed as subject. In the study, will focus on Halil Pasha's life, his understanding of art and the textiles and clothing he depicted in some of his paintings. The textiles and clothes in the paintings were discussed in terms of characteristics such as color, pattern, and texture. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Wireless technologies are essential components of wearable devices for applications ranging from connected healthcare to human–machine interfaces. Their performance, however, is hindered by the human body, which obstructs the propagation of wireless signals over a wide range of directions. Here, we demonstrate conformal propagation and near-omnidirectional radiation of wireless signals near the body using clothing integrated with spoof surface plasmonic (SSP) structures. These structures, fabricated entirely from conductive textiles, induce wireless signals emitted by nearby antennas to propagate around the body as surface waves and radiate as propagating waves in directions otherwise obstructed by the body. We describe the procedure for designing textile-based spoof surface plasmon waveguides, radiating elements, and impedance matching sections for operation in the 2.4–2.5 GHz industrial, scientific, and medical (ISM) band. Using a tissue phantom model of the human torso, we experimentally demonstrate 2.62 greater angular coverage by a dipole placed near the body compared to without the clothing. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background. Traditional monitoring of athletes during sports has long been hampered by bulky, complicated and tethered systems. In the past decade, this has changed due to the miniaturization of sensors and improvement of systems to store and transmit data. These systems have been integrated into textiles to create 'smart clothing' which has been so ubiquitous that a review of the recent literature is crucial for understanding its full potential and potential use in extreme sports. Methods. An electronic data base search was performed from 2003 to April 2019 for full length articles including "Smart" AND "Clothing" OR "Clothing" AND "Sport(s)" written in English with human subjects. Articles were evaluated according to the Newcastle-Ottawa Scale. Results. Twenty-four studies resulted in 18 systems comprised of 22 types of clothing with various capabilities, including: monitoring heart rate, electromyography, respiratory rate, steps, GPS, energy expenditure, posture, body temperature and identifying the activity. Conclusions. Many types of smart clothing from socks and gloves, to pants, shirts and bras are increasingly utilized to monitor sports activity worldwide and gather previously unavailable, yet highly valuable data. This provides a unique opportunity to study athletes during training and competition, potentially providing more effective training and better safety protocols. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The influence of the drying position and time on the persistence of gunshot residues (GSR) on fabrics was investigated. Powder tattooing from a 40 cm shooting distance on targeted fabrics were slightly wetted using a spray and dried for 3 h or 48 h in horizontal or vertical positions. The GSR particles were visualised using IR fluorescence with a Video Spectral Comparator (VSC) and automatically counted with a software before the wetting and after the drying stages. While a significant rate of GSR particles (up to 22%) were lost, it was mainly due to the wetting procedure rather than the drying stage. No statistically significant difference was observed between the drying positions, indicating that both drying positions can be used in practice to dry slightly wet fabrics. The drying time had no influence on the loss, and the GSR distribution was not significantly influenced by either factor (i.e., time and position). • Gunshot residue loss was studied on fabrics shot at a 40 cm distance and sprayed with water. • The drying position for slightly wet clothes had little to no influence on the GSR loss. • No significant particle displacement was observed between the upper and lower half of the targets. • Drying will not significantly influence the estimation of the shooting distance. • No contamination was optically detected on blank fabrics during the drying process. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This special thematic section of Island Studies Journal explores textiles and clothing from an island studies perspective. While there are many examples of textiles and clothing associated with particular islands, an explicitly island studies approach to them has not been fully developed. Such an approach offers the scholar of textiles and clothing a comparative perspective on disparate examples, and invites investigation of ‘island-ness’ beyond its frequent use in branding for a limited range of ‘heritage’ products. Within island studies, the often remarked combination of materiality and symbolism in textiles and clothing provides insight into "island-ness" in the round, encompassing environments, economies, communities and cultural imaginaries. This section includes work on the pánu di téra of Cape Verde, cloth circulation in Madagascar, and textile craft and the creative economy in Shetland. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A prototype of constant temperature drying rate (DRCT) tester (CTDRT) was built to evaluate the DRCT of fabrics. The sample platform is kept at constant temperature and was placed on the balance. The platform temperature is adjustable to simulate different skin temperatures. A heater was placed underneath the sample platform, but it did not have any contact with the sample platform. This novel noncontact heating system enables real-time measurement of water evaporation in the sample throughout the whole experiment. In addition to DRCT, comprehensive information such as water absorption, water spreading, and other fabric drying features can be obtained from CTDRT. In addition, negative pressure gradient system of CTDRT can help to maintain constant atmospheric conditions at negligible wind speed, thereby enhancing the stability and sensitivity of measurement. The DRCT, a key parameter of CTDRT, of 28 fabrics investigated is between 0.36 and 2.56 mL/h at the skin temperature of 37 °C. The validity and repeatability of CTDRT were also confirmed with statistical evidence. The testing duration for CTDRT ranges from 15 to 40 min, which is similar to those of other drying methods where heat is applied, but is much faster than the conventional nonheating methods. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Forensic palynology has been important in criminal investigation since the 1950s and often provides evidence that is vital in identifying suspects and securing convictions. However, for such evidence to be used appropriately, it is necessary to understand the factors affecting taphonomic variability (i.e. the variability in the fate of pollen grains before they are found during forensic examination). Here, we test the relative amount of pollen retained on clothing after a period of simulated light or heavy wear based on pollen and fabric characteristics. We also test the efficiency of forensic laboratory protocols for retrieving pollen from fabrics for analysis. There was no statistically significant difference in retention of fresh or dried pollen on any fabric type. There was a substantial difference in pollen retention according to wear intensity, with considerably more pollen being retained after light wear than after heavy wear. Pollen from insect-pollinated species was retained at higher concentrations than pollen from wind-pollinated species. This pattern was consistent regardless of wear intensity but pollination type explained more of the variability in pollen retention after light wear. Fabric type was significantly related to pollen retention, but interacted strongly with plant species such that patterns were both complex and highly species-specific. The efficiency of removing pollen with the standard washing protocol differed substantially according to plant species, fabric type, and the interaction between these factors. The average efficiency was 67.7% but this ranged from 21% to 93%, demonstrating that previous assumptions on the reliability of the technique providing a representative sample for forensic use should be reviewed. This paper highlights the importance of understanding pollen and fabric characteristics when creating a pollen profile in criminal investigations and to ensure that evidence used in testimony is accurate and robust. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

• Systematic review of application of ML and SC in textile and clothing supply chain. • Yarn and fabric manufacturing stages have most of the applications of ML and SC. • ANN, genetic algorithm and fuzzy logic are the most explored ML and SC techniques. • Lack of collaborative research on ML and SC applications in textile and clothing supply chain. • ML aided fibre development, clothing engineering and fashion forecasting need attention. Machine learning (ML) and soft computing (SC) techniques have contributed immensely towards improvisation of manufacturing, process and quality control, automation of operations, and decision making in the textile and clothing supply chain. The current study systematically reviews 312 research articles published in Scopus indexed journals in last two decades (2000–2020). Bibliometric analysis revealed a drastic rise in number of studies since 2015. Operations related to manufacturing and quality control of yarns and fabrics are found to be benefitted most from ML techniques, as deduced from keyword and thematic content analyses. On the other hand, with respect to ML and SC techniques, artificial neural network, genetic algorithm and fuzzy logic have preponderance over the others. Nevertheless, over the years, many novel ML and SC techniques have emerged in accomplishing diverse objectives of the textile and clothing supply chain. A detailed analysis of their evolution has been documented. Unfortunately, the extent of knowledge sharing and collaboration within the scientific community working in this domain has been very low. This review also unearths lack of integrated focus on complete value chain of textiles and clothing. Fibre development, fuzzy inference and control in textile machines, predictive analytics for clothing engineering, and fashion forecasting have been identified as areas for future research. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

An activity classifier based on an abstract model of the human body is suitable for use in an e-textile monitoring system without the need to retrain the recognition model to accommodate different users, sensor types, or garments. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A production process in which the use of various types of chemicals seems to be ubiquitous makes the textile industry a growing problem regarding both public health as well as the environment. Among several substances used at each stage, the present study focuses on the quinolines, a class of compounds involved in the manufacture of dyes, some of which are skin irritants and/or classified as probable human carcinogens. A method was developed for the determination of quinoline derivatives in textile materials comprising ultrasound-assisted solvent extraction, solid phase extraction cleanup, and final analysis by gas chromatography/mass spectrometry. Quinoline and ten quinoline derivatives were determined in 31 textile samples. The clothing samples, diverse in color, material, brand, country of manufacture, and price, and intended for a broad market, were purchased from different shops in Stockholm, Sweden. Quinoline, a possible human carcinogen, was found to be the most abundant compound present in almost all of the samples investigated, reaching a level of 1.9 mg in a single garment, and it was found that quinoline and its derivatives were mainly correlated to polyester material. This study points out the importance of screening textiles with nontarget analysis to investigate the presence of chemicals in an unbiased manner. Focus should be primarily on clothing worn close to the body. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The International Electrotechnical Commission Standard 61482-1 describes procedures for measuring the thermal performance of fabrics and garments intended for use in clothing for workers exposed to electric arcs. This paper demonstrates that the tests in this Standard fail to produce controlled laboratory conditions. The dominant magnetic and thermal buoyancy forces have been minimized leaving two undefined and uncontrolled forces to randomly dominate arc motion, plasma flow, and thermal stress. The tests also produce hazards significantly different from those faced by victims in real situations. The velocity of the plasma impinging on a victim is incorrect. The color of the radiation is incorrect. The molten metal droplets impinging on the victim are incorrect. The tests only consider clothing stretched over a surface, whereas loose and unbacked cloth suffers considerably more stress. In order to emulate real arcing faults, it will be necessary to use parallel copper and aluminum electrodes. In addition, for personnel working on high-voltage, a “pop-out” test needs to be developed because a fault current that starts by entering and exiting the body becomes an arc inside the clothing. [ABSTRACT FROM PUBLISHER]

Abstract: Blunt force assault is a growing issue worldwide. In New Zealand, recorded cases of grievous blunt force assault increased steadily from 1011 in 1999 to 2139 in 2008 . In many cases of blunt force assault victims are struck on parts of their body covered by clothing, yet the use of damage to apparel as forensic evidence largely appears to have been overlooked. The current research investigated blunt force impact (BFI) damage in common apparel fabrics and the effects prior and post-laundering had on this damage. Two 100% cotton fabrics (single jersey knit, bull drill) were impacted as single and double layers using an impactor representative of a hammer face, the force transmitted through specimens was measured and impulse calculated. Impacting and laundering were completed cumulatively to establish the effects of impact damage on new, dimensionally stable (laundered 6 times) and aged fabrics (laundered up to 30 times), and the effects of laundering on impacted specimens. BFI left recognisable patterns of damage in specimens, although the extent of this damage varied. Laundering after the impact event altered the visible and microscopic damage. Laundering previously impacted fabrics produced holes in some specimens and some fibres exhibited failure characteristic of blunt force impact. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]