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In this study, we use observations and numerical simulations to investigate the effect of meteorological parameters such as wind and atmospheric pressure on harbour water exchanges. The modelled information is obtained from the SAMOA (Sistema de Apoyo Meteorológico y Oceanográfico de la Autoridad Portuaria) forecasting system, which is a high-resolution numerical model for coastal and port-scale forecasting. Based on the observations, six events with high renewal times have been proposed for analysis using the SAMOA model. Therefore, the conclusions of this study have been possible due to the combination of observed data from the measurement campaigns and the information provided by the model. The results show that days with higher renewal times coincide with favourable wind-direction events or increases in atmospheric pressure. After analysing these events using model results, it was observed that during these episodes, water inflows were generated, and in some cases, there was a negative difference in levels between inside and outside the harbour produced by atmospheric pressure variations. The latter may be due to the fact that the water in the harbour (having a lower volume) descends faster and, therefore, generates a difference in level between the exterior and the interior and, consequently, inflow currents that imply an increase in the renewal time. These results are a demonstration of how meteorological information (normally available in ports) can be used to estimate currents and water exchanges between ports and their outer harbour area. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Onshore bar migration is a characteristic bar behavior during post‐storm beach recovery. The present large‐scale experiments, feature bichromatic wave groups over an initially steep (1:15), fully‐evolving beach. The same accretive wave condition is applied on two different post‐storm beach profiles featuring outer and inner bars. They are characterized by a larger (smaller) shoreline erosion and a larger (smaller) outer breaker bar located farther away from (closer to) the shoreline depending on the larger (smaller) energy of the storm condition. After a considerable post‐storm recovery time, similar equilibrium profiles are obtained, stressing the link between wave condition and equilibrium beach configuration. However, the evolution toward the equilibrium is different and depends on the initial morphological condition (post‐storm beach profile). After the larger storm, the morphological evolution is termed accretive merging (AM) and characterized by merging of the two bars (outer bar dissipation). After the smaller storm, the morphological evolution denoted as accretive non‐merging (AN) is characterized by onshore migration of the two bars with constant distance between them (bar maintenance). This study focuses on processes around the outer bar. During AN it features wave breaking, causing large suspended net offshore transport. AM, in contrast, mainly features bedload related to short wave asymmetries and low decomposed net transport rate magnitudes. High suspended net offshore transport occurs solely onshore of the outer bar trough. This causes filling of the bar trough and bar dissipation during migration. Additionally, processes around the outer bars are linked to accretion onshore of the bars and at the shoreline. Plain Language Summary: Nearshore sandbars are seabed features that protect coastal infrastructure behind many sandy beaches around the world. In response to waves they change in shape and distance to the beach, playing a key role in beach recovery after storms. To improve understanding of their onshore movement (migration), experiments were conducted which represented natural conditions in a controlled laboratory setting. In this context, the underwater transport of sand was measured. Application of the same recovery wave condition to two different post‐storm beach profiles resulted in two different types of bar onshore migration. After long experimental duration, both types evolved toward relatively similar beach profiles but the different ways of reaching them might have important practical consequences. In general, bar migration was governed by the interaction of onshore‐ and offshore‐transporting processes. They, in turn, were influenced by wave breaking. Bars, furthermore, cause wave breaking—closing the feedback loop. Ultimately, the different wave breaking locations, resulting from the shape of the post‐storm profiles, caused the different types of bar onshore migration during recovery. The present results provide crucial information for the development of mathematical models to forecast beach evolution and safeguard human interests in the coastal zone. Key Points: Accretive wave condition determines quasi‐equilibrium recovery beach profile irrespective of initial profilesConfiguration of post‐storm profiles determines type of accretive morphological evolution toward the quasi‐equilibrium profileOuter bar maintenance associated with wave breaking over the bar while breaking farther onshore leads to outer bar dissipation [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Detailed information on nearshore sediment transport processes during onshore bar migration were obtained from large‐scale laboratory experiments with bichromatic wave groups on a relatively steep initial beach slope (1:15). Detailed measurements of velocity and sand concentration near the bed from shoaling up to the outer breaking zone including suspended sediment and sheet flow transport are presented. The analysis focuses on onshore migration under an accretive wave condition but comparison to an erosive condition highlights important differences. Decomposition shows that total transport mainly results from a balance of short wave‐related, bedload onshore transport and current‐related, suspended offshore transport. When comparing the accretive to the more energetic erosive condition, the balance shifts toward onshore transport, and onshore migration, because the short wave‐related transport does not decrease as much as the current‐related transport. This is related to the effects of skewness and asymmetry combined with less sediment suspension in the water column and undertow magnitude under the accretive condition. Transports from streaming in the wave boundary layer and from infragravity waves become visible but only play a subordinate role. Identified priorities for numerical model development include parametrization of wave nonlinearity effects and better description of wave breaking and its influences on sediment suspension. Plain Language Summary: Nearshore sandbars are seabed features that protect coastal infrastructure behind many sandy beaches around the world. In response to waves they change in shape and distance to the beach. To improve understanding of their onshore and offshore movement (migration), experiments representing natural conditions in a controlled laboratory setting were done. In this context, the underwater transport of sand was measured on the basis of flow velocities and sediment concentration in the water. The most important factors for migration direction were: shape of the waves (asymmetries about horizontal and vertical axes), wave breaking and resulting flows, and processes to lift sediments into the water column and keep them suspended. Under storm waves, the breaking‐induced flows dominated the sediment transport so that bars moved offshore. In calmer conditions, the shape of the waves dominated the transport so that bars moved onshore. The inherent complexities of these processes make their mathematical replication difficult, as shown by comparison to literature. Consequently, priorities for advancing the forecasting of sandbar movement, improving coastal protection, were identified. Key Points: Migration results from balance of onshore‐directed, short‐wave related bedload and offshore‐directed, current‐related suspended transportsFrom storm to recovery waves there is change to onshore migration because stronger reduction in offshore‐ than onshore‐directed transportsStreaming and infragravity wave influences are visible but negligibly low; wave breaking and nonlinearity influences are more important [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study presents novel insights into hydrodynamics and sediment fluxes in large‐scale laboratory experiments with bichromatic wave groups on a relatively steep initial beach slope (1:15). An Acoustic Concentration and Velocity Profiler provided detailed information of velocity and sand concentration near the bed from shoaling up to the outer breaking zone including suspended sediment and sheet flow transport. The morphological evolution was characterized by offshore migration of the outer breaker bar. Decomposition of the total net transport revealed a balance of onshore‐directed, short wave‐related and offshore‐directed, current‐related net transport. The short wave‐related transport mainly occurred as bedload over small vertical extents. It was linked to characteristic intrawave sheet flow layer expansions during short wave crests. The current‐related transport rate featured lower maximum flux magnitudes but occurred over larger vertical extents. As a result, it was larger than the short wave‐related transport rate in all but one cross‐shore position, driving the bar's offshore migration. Net flux magnitudes of the infragravity component were comparatively low but played a nonnegligible role for total net transport rate in certain cross‐shore positions. Net infragravity flux profiles sometimes featured opposing directions over the vertical. The fluxes were linked to a standing infragravity wave pattern and to the correlation of the short wave envelope, controlling suspension, with the infragravity wave velocity. Plain Language Summary: Nearshore sandbars are seabed features that protect coastal infrastructure behind many sandy beaches around the world. In response to waves, they change in shape and distance to the beach. To improve understanding of their offshore movement, experiments representing natural conditions in a controlled laboratory setting were done. In this context, the underwater transport of sand was measured. The experiments featured groups of single short waves (less than 2.5 m long), which transported sand in different ways. Single short waves largely transported sand toward the beach, and in a very thin layer close to the seabed. Currents, caused by the short waves and their breaking, largely transported sand away from the beach, and over a much wider layer. Interactions between the single short waves in a group created longer waves. They transported sand partly toward and partly away from the beach. The currents transported sand more effectively than the single short waves, which explains the sandbar's offshore movement. The long waves transported less sand and only became important when transports from currents and short waves canceled each other out. This study provides useful information for better forecasting of sandbar movement, improving coastal protection. Key Points: Bar offshore migration resulted from balance of offshore‐directed, current‐related and onshore‐directed, short wave‐related transportsShort wave‐ (current‐) related transport dominant in sheet flow (suspended) layer. As they oppose, infragravity transport non‐negligibleThe presence/absence of time‐lags between concentration and hydrodynamics in the suspended/sheet flow layers affects transport direction [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The transport of plastic particles from inland sources to the oceans garbage patches occurs trough coastal regions where the transport processes depend highly on wave‐induced motions. In this study, experimental measurements of the plastic particles wave‐induced Lagrangian drift in intermediate water depth are presented investigating the influence of the wave conditions, particle size and density on the motion of relatively large plastic particles. A large influence of the particle density is observed causing particles to float or sink for relative densities lower and larger than water respectively. The measured net drift of the floating particles correlates well with theoretical solutions for particle Stokes drift, where the net drift is proportional to the square of the wave steepness. Floating particles remain at the free water surface because of buoyancy and no evidence of any other influence of particle inertia on the net drift is observed. Nonfloating particles move close to the bed with lower velocity magnitudes than the floating particles' motion at the free surface. The drift of nonfloating particles reduces with decreasing wave number, and therefore wave steepness. Plain Language Summary: Marine plastic pollution attracts significant attention from scientists and the general public. Most focus is on the floating plastic that accumulates in the centers of the ocean basin. However, for plastic originating from land to end up in these open‐ocean regions, it first needs to be transported through the coastal zone. Little is known how coastal waves transport plastic. Here, we use a 16 m‐long wave‐flume to measure how waves transport both floating and nonfloating plastic particles in the laboratory. The floating particles move with the waves as predicted by the so‐called Stokes drift, while nonfloating particles feel the effect of the bottom shear. These results improve our understanding of how plastics move from the coast to the open ocean and vice versa, thereby supporting improvements in our modeling capacity of the transport of marine plastic litter. Key Points: A 16 m wave flume is used to measure wave transport of floating and non‐floating plasticFloating plastic transport correlates well with Stokes drift and buoyancy is the only non‐inertial effectNon‐floating particles experience shear forces. Transport varies with particle size and density [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The propagation of bichromatic wave groups over a constant 1:100 beach slope and the influence of the group modulation is presented. The modulation is controlled by varying the group frequency, fg, which is shown to remarkably affect the energy transfer to high and low frequency components. The growth of the high frequency (hf) wave skewness increases when fg decreases. This is explained by nonlinear coupling between the primary frequencies, which results in a larger growth of hf components as fg decreases, causing the hf waves to break earlier. Due to high spatial resolution, wave tracking has provided an accurate measurement of the varying breakpoint. These breaking locations are very well described ( [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: This work presents a detailed analysis of suspended sediment concentration measured in the inner surf and swash zone under large-scale wave flume conditions. Controlled hydrodynamic conditions tested in the laboratory corresponded to highly energetic (erosive) conditions. Hydrodynamic, bottom evolution and suspended sediment concentration (SSC) data were acquired at several locations within the inner surf and the swash zone. A limited number of hydrodynamic type of events have been identified to induce important suspended sediment concentrations. These hydrodynamic conditions include incident broken wave, wave capture, weak and strong wave backwash interactions or pure backwash events. The acquired data showed the variability of the suspended sediment concentration pattern depending on the cross-shore location from which measurements were taken. This suspension mechanism also varied depending on the time series characteristic. There was a clear predominance of incident wave/bore as a forcing term in the surf zone, whilst the SSC measured in the swash zone showed that wave-swash interaction controls the most significant events. Finally, the importance of a wave-by-wave analysis is highlighted in this study. It was observed that despite the fact that most of the time series induce profile accretion in the mid and upper swash area, only one or two swash events are able to erode extensive parts of the beach and change the final output of the entire time record from accretion to erosion. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

The evolution of different initial beach profiles towards the same final beach configuration is investigated based on large-scale experimental data. The same wave condition was performed three times, each time starting from a different initial profile morphology. The three different initial profiles are an intermediate energy profile with an offshore bar and a small swash berm, a plane profile and a low energy profile with a large berm. The three cases evolve towards the same final (equilibrium) profile determined by the same wave condition. This implies that the same wave condition generates different sediment transport patterns. Largest beach changes and differences in hydrodynamics occur in the beginning of the experimental cases, highlighting the coupling between morphology and hydrodynamics for beach evolution towards the same profile. The coupling between morphology and hydrodynamics that leads to the same final beach profile is associated with differences in sediment transport in the surf and swash zone, and is explained by the presence of bar and berm features. A large breaker bar and concave profile promote wave energy dissipation and reduce the magnitudes of the mean near-bed flow velocity close to the shoreline limiting shoreline erosion. In contrast, a beach profile with reflective features, such as a large berm and a small or no bar, increases negative velocity magnitudes at the berm toe promoting shoreline retreat. The findings are summarised in a conceptual model that describes how the beach changes towards equilibrium from two different initial morphologies. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]