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An outlook on the interaction between the folding process and the drapability of the textile reinforcement The production of textile‐reinforced concrete (TRC) components, particularly by preforming, has traditionally relied heavily on iterative processes and decisions. While this approach is effective for certain established TRC applications, it leads to a significant planning effort and carries the risk of overlooking technically or economically more favorable alternatives. This paper proposes to utilize the principles of folded load‐bearing structures as the basis for the production line of TRC components. This new methodology has both material and process requirements and focuses on the use of folded formwork and its effects on the drapability of reinforcement textiles. Based on initial findings from the field of folded formwork and the analysis of the drapability of textile mesh reinforcements, the relationships and dependencies between the material "textile", the process "folded formwork" and the product "folded load‐bearing TRC structures" are shown and the challenges of these subfields are revealed. In this way, the study aims to rationalize production planning, reduce dependence on traditional methods and open up ways of incorporating innovative materials and processes into TRC production. The approach harbors significant potential for the economic viability of folded load‐bearing TRC structures. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Irrigation & Drainage is the property of Wiley-Blackwell and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Currently, researchers have been particularly interested in Industry 4.0 (I4.0) as a combination of novel revolutionary digital technologies. This evolution is transforming how organizations operate to promote sustainable and circular practices. Consequently, this research empirically investigates the capabilities of I4.0 adoption to establish a sustainable and circular supply chain. The study investigates the impact of organizational factors on the deployment of I4.0 technologies to achieve sustainability objectives. Furthermore, this approach combines empirical and qualitative analyses within a methodological framework to investigate the relationship between organizational factors, I4.0 adoption, sustainable, and circular practices. In this context, survey responses have been collected from 323 supply chain professionals in the textile sector in Morocco. Consequently, employing structural equation modeling, our results reveal a strong link between I4.0 adoption and the promotion of circular and sustainable approaches. The study finds a positive association between I4.0 adoption, technological readiness, and environmental responsiveness while highlighting the challenges posed by organizational practices on I4.0 implementation in developing countries. This research contributes to the theoretical foundations of the potential influence of I4.0 technologies, and it provides practical contributions for stakeholders to effectively embrace I4.0 technologies and thereby drive more sustainable and efficient practices. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The Middle Nile Valley offers exceptional environmental conditions that allow the preservation of organic materials, including textiles. This paper presents the results of the analysis of 17 samples collected from wool, cotton, and silk textiles excavated in the ancient capital of Old Dongola from layers dated to the 17th and 18th centuries CE. Chemical analysis using high performance liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (HPLC‐MS/MS) have identified both plant and animal dyes. Locally produced textiles, mostly from wool and decorated with blue, green, orange, and yellow hues, were dyed with woad (Isatis tinctoria), flavonoid plants, and madder‐type roots, which were already known and used by medieval dyers in that area. For the first time, kermes (Kermes vermilio) and lac‐dye (Kerria species) have been also identified as a dye source in samples from this group. Imported fabrics, of cotton and silk, were dyed blue with woad (I. tinctoria) but also with indigo (Indigofera tinctoria); dyer's broom (Genista tinctoria) and kermes (K. vermilio) were other dyes identified in this second group. The results of this study provide the first dye identification for textiles produced in the 17th–18th c. Sudan and contribute new data to the research on textile production and trade in post‐medieval Sudan. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

With the decline of China's economic growth rate and the uproar of antiglobalization, the textile industry, one of the business cards of China's globalization, is facing a huge impact. When the economic model is undergoing transformation, it is more important to prevent enterprises from falling into financial distress. So, the financial risk early warning is one of the important means to prevent enterprises from falling into financial distress. Aiming at the risk analysis of the textile industry's foreign investment, this paper proposes an analysis method based on deep learning. This method combines residual network (ResNet) and long short-term memory (LSTM) risk prediction model. This method first establishes a risk indicator system for the textile industry and then uses ResNet to complete deep feature extraction, which are further used for LSTM training and testing. The performance of the proposed method is tested based on part of the measured data, and the results show the effectiveness of the proposed method. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The Historical Dyestuff Collection at the Technical University Dresden houses a large collection of colorants, such as more than 20 000 synthetic organic dyes, more than 500 natural organic dyes and a comprehensive collection of inorganic natural and synthetic pigments, as well as more than 3 000 shade cards and a variety of other objects related to dyestuff chemistry. Moreover, all theses performed at the Institute of Color and Textile Chemistry, the home of the Dyestuff Collection, together with all substance probes prepared during the qualification works of the students, were deposited here and can be used on demand. From the theses and much additional literature collected here, the history of industrial dyestuff chemistry and the photographic industry as well as the contributions of the scientists working at the Institute since 1892, including W. König and H. T. Bucherer as some of the more famous examples, can be reflected upon and studied in detail. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The efficiency of conventional polarized light microscopy (PLM) methods for analyzing synthetic fiber evidence analyses is improved. Historically, using PLM for fiber identification relied on measuring refractive index. This prior PLM technology is reliable, but it is not efficient. Most fibers are optically anisotropic, having two principal refractive index values, N(High) and N(Low). When the fiber is mounted in intermediate refractive index medium, efficiency is improved by observing the change in contrast while the polarized light's vector is rotated relative to the fiber's axis. Minimum contrast occurs when the refractive indices of the mounting medium and fiber are equal. This angle of equality is determined by orienting the fiber's highest refractive index parallel to the polarized light's electric field vector, rotating the fiber or polarizing element, observing minimum contrast and measuring the angle of equality. This method is rapid, reduces remounting fibers in different mounting media and provides a quantitative measure for fiber comparisons. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The elimination of trade contingency measures in 2005 triggered a process of renewal in the textile sector, requiring major investments. The divide between efficiency and innovation has become an issue of major importance for decision‐making in the Spanish textile sector. This study provides quantitative data on the efficiency levels of innovative Spanish textile companies. The aim is to identify their distinguishing features and establish a possible pattern to follow. In addition, truncated regression is used to estimate the determinants of efficiency, in order to check the significance of innovation processes for firms. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article shows the colorimetric data obtained from pre‐Columbian northern Chilean textiles and their subsequent analysis for the construction of a color chart. As part of a more extensive study investigating the fundamental pillars of the textile language associated with pre‐Columbian weaves, a registration of colorimetric data was carried out on 42 textile pieces with a total of 203 colors mostly provided by the Chilean Museum of Pre‐Columbian Art. The results are presented in terms of CIELAB coordinates. The colors obtained showed a considerable percentage of reds and browns. The recorded values can contribute to the preservation of cultural heritage and the esthetics of current Chilean identity as they can be used in new industries, contexts, and applications. Subsequently, the colorimetric data obtained could be transferred to other color systems, so that users from different sectors might have access to this cultural legacy, understanding the limitations of color production in mixed media. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Nachrichten aus der Chemie is the property of Wiley-Blackwell and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Microscopic Analysis of Historic Textile Fibres Preand Post=Cleaning 2020 RMS Summer Studentship Report: Rana Salem, Glasgow Caledonian University Bleaching is a last-resort method used by textile conservators to preserve historic textiles. Both longitudinal and cross-sectional fibre samples oxidative and reductive bleaching both have were examined using brightfield, darkfield, polarised detrimental effects on the integrity of cotton textiles. light and phase contrast microscopy. Crossfibre samples were prepared by tweezing an individual sectional analysis provides the most information, fibre from the sample and drylwet mounting onto a revealing how bleaching affects not just the surface slide. [Extracted from the article]

Eco‐friendly dyeing technology with regard to manufactured fibres is receiving considerable attention, while textile coloration requires highly advanced interdisciplinary approaches including textile science, dyeing chemistry, consumer sensibility and cultural aspects. In this study, lyocell fabrics were dyed with the traditional Korean indigo dyestuff, Niram, and their psychological colour sensibility was measured and discussed in relation to the physical colour properties in the context of global culture. A systematic dyeing process was developed to obtain a variety of colours utilising different dyestuff concentrations, reducing agent concentration and construction of fabrics. According to participants’ responses to a questionnaire, all lyocell fabrics dyed with traditional Korean indigo dyestuffs were visually perceived and recognised as ‘cold’, ‘clean’, ‘plain’, ‘elegant’ and ‘exotic’. Psychological colour sensibility showed statistically significant correlation with the concentrations of dye and reducing agent. In the situation where fabrics were dyed under high dye concentration and darker/bluish colour properties, the subjects had an ‘exotic’ and ‘western’ appearance rather than ‘oriental’ and ‘banal’. According to the results of ANOVA and Duncan's multiple range tests, two dyeing conditions, and dye concentration in particular, had a significant impact on all psychological colour sensibilities except for warm‐cold’. Reducing agent concentration significantly affected ‘warm‐cold’, while ‘vivid‐subdued’ was affected by two‐way interaction effects between dye concentration and reducing agent concentration. Traditional Korean indigo dyestuff concentration and reducing agent concentration can be adjusted appropriately and controlled for efficient vat dye to produce and design diverse combinations of psychological colour sensibilities. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Natural resources can be conserved if we carefully maintain the building stock and indeed extend the useful economic life of buildings. One way to achieve this is to enhance load-bearing structures by repair, restoration, or strengthening. Such upgrading often involves applying a strengthening to existing concrete elements. Over the past decade, textile-reinforced concrete (TRC), encompassing a combination of fine-grained concrete and noncorrosive multiaxial textile fabrics, has emerged as a promising novel alternative for strengthening of conventional steel-reinforced concrete (RC) structures, offering enhanced load-bearing capacity with minimal weight and stiffness change. Although TRC has been extensively researched during the last two decades, the formalization of experimental methods and design standards is still in progress. Attempts to design for good load transfer are often hindered by lack of knowledge regarding bond behaviour. For instance, there are neither standard recommendations nor proofs regarding the required development length of textile fibres in TRC for practical applications up to now. The aim of this work was to provide a test specification, which gives a direct result for the development length (required for the anchorage of a reinforcement, also referred to as “anchorage length”) of textile reinforcements in fine-grained concrete—quickly and easily. The aim of this paper was to present the test specification developed in a way that it is useful for the future work of other researchers as well as for construction engineers. Some selected experimental investigations with different textile reinforcements and different bonding properties were performed with the aim of showing the applicability of the proposed adaptive test specification. The results of these tests indicated that conventional AR glass and carbon fabrics without coating required large anchoring lengths. The tests further showed that an additional application of different kinds of coating to textile fabrics greatly increased the reinforcement’s resistance to pullout. This is of special interest for carbon fibres, which have a substantially higher strength than AR glass fibres and different bond behaviour; that is, carbon fibres have, by nature, larger development lengths. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

ABSTRACT This article aimed to investigate the mechanical performance of 3D integrated knitted spacer composites with a tubular shape, in term of internal hydrostatic and external static pressures (ESP). All the tubular-knitted fabrics were produced on a modern flat knitting machine using untwisted glass and HT-nylon yarns. Then, the epoxy resin was transferred through the whole fabric structure via vacuum infusion molding process. Produced tubular composites were subjected to internal hydrostatic and ESP. Accordingly, force-displacement curves were obtained and experimental results were discussed. The results revealed that the tubular composite samples containing non-knitting yarns show 27.33 and 37.50% improvement in internal hydrostatic and ESP, respectively, compared with the plain knitted fabric reinforced composite. Also, the finding demonstrated that mechanical performance of the tubular-knitted spacer composites is highly affected by aspect ratio and the number of connecting layers. Knitted spacer reinforced composite containing 5 and 10 connecting layers can improve the resistance against internal hydrostatic pressure 35.08 and 51.29%, respectively, compared with the plain knitted reinforced composites. In this case, 84.20 and 89.86% improvement can be achieved in term of the resistance against ESP. © 2017 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J. Appl. Polym. Sci. 2018, 135, 46074. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Functional, reactive and smart textiles are nowadays of great interest in the fields of both cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. Textile functionalization according to demands of the consumers can only be achieved with better understanding of the properties of the textile surface as well as sound knowledge about the technique to be used to functionalize the textiles. The aim of this work was to investigate the zeta potential of polyamide textile and prepared sponge like particles as a function of pH and salinity of the electrolyte. Special attention has been dedicated to the electrokinetic properties of textile as a function of sponge like particles amount present during adsorption process. As a general tendency, streaming potential measurement showed the changes in surface charge density of textile because of the changes in pH, salinity and adsorbed particles amount. All presented results were discussed in terms of zeta potential. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The azo-hydrazone tautomerism, solvatochromism, and halochromism in four novel V-shaped asymmetrical acceptor-π-donor-π-acceptor (A-π-D-π-A) compounds were examined. They contain 2,7,15,16-functionalised benzophenazine cores connected to the anchoring electron-deficient phenyl core via azo linkers and 2,7-position fused with anthraquinone. These compounds derived from 2-hydroxy-1,4-napthaquinone (lawsone) have been prepared in moderate to good yields. The synthesis involved the diazotisation of substituted aromatic amines, coupling onto 2-hydroxy-1,4-napthaquinone, and further condensing the resulting azo compounds with 1,2-diaminoanthraquinone in acetic acid. The absorption wavelengths of the dyes in different solvents were in the range 500-720 nm. The spectral changes of the synthesised azo-azine compounds in different pH indicated the formation of hydrazone tautomer in acidic pH and of azo tautomer in alkaline pH. Density functional theory was used to assess the tautomers in terms of geometry and position of the tautomeric equilibrium. Time-dependent density functional theory calculations allowed us to assign the electronic transitions (>90%) of the low-energy bands. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Ink dot distribution on cotton fabrics determines the colour performance of reactive dye inkjet printing, and ink drop spreading is one of the important factors influencing the ink dot distribution. In order to reveal the relationship between fabric pretreatment and ink drop spreading, two pieces of cotton fabric were pretreated respectively with sodium alginate and sodium alginate plus high fatty acid derivative solutions. Results indicate that the surface energy of the cotton fabrics was reduced from 73.79 to 69.45 and 58.49 mJ m−2 after the pretreatment with sodium alginate and sodium alginate plus high fatty acid derivative respectively. Correspondingly, the spreading area of cyan ink drops on these fabrics was reduced from 104.9 to 92.5 and 72.3 mm2. Furthermore, on the fabric treated with sodium alginate plus high fatty acid derivative, the strip-like ink dots were narrow and short, which means the dye was concentrated in an area on the fabric surface. Colorimetric values of the inkjet-printed fabrics demonstrated that the high fatty acid derivative would enhance the ability of sodium alginate to control ink droplet spreading, thereby improving the colour performance. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Gallinaceous feathers (from Gallus gallus domesticus, strains Cobb 500 and Label) were used as adsorbent for colour removal from a simulated textile effluent containing a wool reactive dye, the Yellow Lanasol 4G (CI Reactive Yellow 39). A brief chemical and physical characterisation of feathers was performed. Equilibrium studies at different selected temperatures, in the range 10-60 °C, were carried out. The equilibrium data were analysed using the Freundlich and Langmuir isotherm models. Adsorption capacity strongly increases with temperature. A maximum adsorption capacity of around 300 mg g−1 was obtained for Gallus gallus feathers, strain Cobb 500, at 60 °C, while for strain Label, 200 mg g−1 was obtained at 50 °C. For each type of feather a generalised model, valid for a given temperature range, was obtained. The isosteric heat of adsorption calculated was positive, so the mechanism involved in the adsorption process should correspond to endothermic chemisorption. This study provides important information concerning the use of gallinaceous feathers without any chemical treatment for colour removal from real textile wastewaters. The results in this study indicated that gallinaceous feathers, when compared with activated carbon, open promising perspectives concerning their utilisation for colour removal from textile effluent discharged at high temperatures; moreover, it would be an alternative for the valorisation of this waste. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A diyne functionalized 4,6-O-benzylidene β- d-galactopyranoside gelator, which can align its diyne motifs upon self-assembly (gelation) have been synthesized. The organogel formed by this gelator undergoes topochemical polymerization to polydiacetylene (PDA) under photoirradiation. This strategically designed gelator has been used to make semi-conducting fabrics. By developing the organogel on the fabrics, the gelator molecules were made not only to self-assemble on the fibers, but also to adhere to fabrics through hydrogen bonding. UV irradiation of the gel-coated fabric/fiber resulted in the formation of PDA on fibers. The benzylidene motif could be deprotected to get PDA with pendant free sugars that strongly bind to the cotton fibrils through multiple hydrogen bonds. Conductivity measurements revealed the semiconducting nature of these fabrics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Across all cultures and over all time periods, as early as the third millennium BC, indigo, a very intense blue vat dye, has been used to dye textiles. Even today, indigo is regarded as one of the most popular blue colorants in items such as blue jeans. While synthetic indigo is used to color textiles today, throughout history, a variety of plants have provided indigo. In this special feature article, René Csuk and co-authors propose to use atmospheric solids analysis probe mass spectrometry (ASAP-MS) to very rapidly and reliably identify indigo colorants tiny amounts in ancient historic fabrics without any sample preparation. The ionization in ASAP experiments is effected by Penning ionization or by the transfer of protons originating from protonated clusters of water. Dr. René Csuk is Professor of organic bioorganic chemistry at the Martin-Luther Universität Halle-Wittenberg (Halle, Germany). His main research interests are in organic and medicinal chemistry, chemical biology and phytochemistry. Historical samples can be investigated conveniently using ASAP®-MS experiments. ASAP®-MS allowed for rapid direct sampling without any preparation of the sample prior to its measurements, and reliable results were generated in less than 1 minute. As demonstrated for indigoid-type dyes, the efficacy of ASAP®-MS analysis is independent of the type of fiber, the age of the sample, the workmanship, and the state of preservation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

ABSTRACT Wet and clingy sensation caused by fabric is activated by thermoreceptors and mechanoreceptors and is critical to wearers' thermophysiological and tactile comfort. This study aims at quantifying the absolute threshold for wet and clingy sensation of apparel fabrics using a psychophysical approach and measuring the residual moisture left on skin through a physical approach. A volar forearm test is proposed where water supply and controlled fabric movement are used to simulate sweating and body movement during wear. The results show that the volar forearm test has good within-judge reliability, between-judge consistency and high sensitivity. The difference in absolute threshold of wet and clingy sensation of fabrics can be attributed to the difference in wicking rate, evaporation rate, geometry and thermal properties of fabrics. The results further suggest that a clingy sensation is triggered when the residual water accumulated on the skin exceeds 0.013 gram, given that the covering fabric is water absorbent. Besides, the absolute threshold for wet and clingy sensation was found strongly correlated with the instrumentally measured water absorption capacity of the fabric. Furthermore, results obtained by the psychophysical threshold method were compared with the psychological wetness rating scale method, and the former was found to be advantageous in terms of testing sensitivity. PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS To improve living standards, the textile industry is constantly seeking comfortable apparel fabrics, especially for sportswear, intimate apparel and functional clothing when used under extreme conditions or strenuous activities. The wetness comfort is also important for health-care products since wetness can promote growth of microorganisms, thereby causing dermatitis. In the proposed forearm test, the sweat rate and the degree of fabric movement is adjustable, which simulates varying levels of activity. This study demonstrates the feasibility of using an absolute threshold to assess moisture sensation of apparel fabrics. It may be beneficial to textile/clothing manufacturers to improve existing products or develop new products for specific end uses. Since our study shows that water absorption capacity of fabric has a strong correlation with wet and clingy sensation, instrumental measurement can be employed as a routine fabric performance analysis to substitute the time-consuming human subjective assessment. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A new method for evaluating the light fastness of photochromic fabrics was established, aimed at replacing the conventional method with an instrumental method. This method was based on comparing the colour difference of photochromic fabrics after light exposure with measured values of the colour differences of the blue wool references after fixed periods of light exposure. This method benefits from replacing the traditional visual evaluation of colour difference between exposed and unexposed areas of textile samples with a more accurate, instrument-based measurement of the colour difference. The light fastness is then evaluated by comparing the colour difference with tabulated values of colour differences brought about by light exposure, for increased periods of time, of standard blue wool references. This method could be used for measuring light fastness of both traditional and photochromic fabrics. However, blue wool references and tested samples should be exposed to light under similar conditions when using this method to measure colour fastness to light of fabrics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The present paper is focused on the use of promising bio-based thermoplastic--poly(L-lactic acid)--in textile applications and with possible limits related to its enhanced sensitivity to (bio)degradation. Linear and planar fabrics made of staple were exposed to standard washing cycles imitating the maintenance of textile materials. The effect of temperature and pH of the washing bath on the degradation rate of poly(L-lactic acid) was monitored by the abiotic hydrolysis test. The properties of the fabrics after carrying out the tests were evaluated from the changes of mass per areal weight, strength, and morphology of the fabrics. The changes of the structure of the polymer chains were assessed by differential scanning calorimetry, by the decrease of molar masses (determined using size exclusion chromatography) and of the viscosity of the polymer solutions, and by infrared spectroscopy. Poly(L-lactic acid) fabric finds application for various kinds of garments, and untreated fabric reliably tolerates 60 standard washing cycles. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

ZnO nanoflowers were synthesized on conductive flexible textile fabric substrate by using the simple low-temperature aqueous chemical growth method and were used for piezoelectric energy harvesting source. Structural characterization of ZnO nanoflowers was carried out by using surface scanning electron microscopy and X-ray diffraction. The ZnO nanoflowers are uniformly grown over the entire sample. They are composed of needle-like nanorods, which have hexagonal wurtzite structure with good crystalline quality. The current-voltage characteristics showed good rectifying Schottky behaviour. Contact-mode atomic force microscopy was used for measuring the piezoelectric output potential. The maximum output potential was found to be more than 600 mV and the corresponding current also recorded was near ∼650 nA. (© 2013 WILEY-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim) [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The degradation rate of tissue engineering scaffolds should match the regeneration rate of new tissues. Controlling the degradation behavior of silk fibroin is an important subject for silk-based tissue engineering scaffolds. In this study, Antheraea pernyi silk fibroin was successfully modified with succinic anhydride and then characterized by zeta potential, ninhydrin method, and FTIR. In vitro, three-dimensional scaffolds prepared with modified silk fibroin were incubated in collagenase IA solution for 18 days to evaluate the impact of acylation on the degradation behavior. The results demonstrated that the degradation rate ofmodified silk fibroin scaffolds was more rapid than unmodified ones. The content of the β-sheet structure in silk fibroin obviously decreased after acylation, resulting in a high degradation rate. Above all, the degradation behavior of silk fibroin scaffolds could be regulated by acylation to match the requirements of various tissues regeneration. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The antioxidant gallic acid (GA) has been incorporated into cotton (CO) and polyamide (PA) through two different vehicles, that is, liposomes and mixed micelles, and their respective absorption/desorption processes have been studied. Moreover, in vitro percutaneous absorption tests of different cosmetotextiles have been performed to demonstrate antioxidant penetration within the layers of the skin. When GA was embedded into the cosmetotextiles, it always promoted a reservoir effect that was much more marked than that observed for polyamide. Similar penetration was observed in the textiles treated with GA in mixed micelles or liposomes in such compartments of the skin as the stratum corneum, epidermis, and even the dermis. GA was detected in receptor fluid only when CO was treated with MM. Thismethodologymay be useful in verifying how encapsulated substances incorporated into textilematerials penetrate human skin. Indeed, suchmaterials can be considered strategic delivery systems that release a given active compound into the skin at specific doses. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This work investigated the possibility of predicting the human psychophysical perception of crispness and coolness hand of men's suit fabrics made from animal fibers (wool, mohair, cashmere and alpaca) from rapidly measurable low‐stress mechanical and thermal parameters. Thanks to Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST) and Alambeta instruments, in about 1 h for sample, it was possible to simply obtain eight parameters that together described low‐stress compressional, bending, shearing, and tensile deformations and thermal behavior. Sensory hand evaluation was performed by a panel of eight experts. After assessing the inter‐expert concordance, the sensory‐instrumental relationship was explored using multiple linear regression and comparing three mathematical models: a linear function, the Weber–Fechner law and the Stevens's power law, with the last two being well‐established psychophysical models to translate instrumentally measured fabric properties into corresponding hand parameters. PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS: The textile and clothing industry is increasingly interested in the development of tools to describe and grade the sensory quality of its products. Especially finishing companies, largely small and medium‐sized, require objective methods for online controlling fabric handle and just‐in‐time setting their finishing machines and processes. Even if some industrial and commercial sectors have switched to trained sensory panels, this solution is difficult to apply in the textile finishing sector, that is more and more interested in instrumental methods for evaluating the effectiveness of finishing processes, checking the efficiency of machine operations and troubleshooting. This demand is undermined by the limited availability of skilled technicians able to use complex and costly fabric objective measurement systems, such as the Kawabata's Evaluation System for Fabrics one (KES‐F), that, in addition, does not allow quick responses. This work proposed the reliable, simple and rapid measurement of hand‐related properties, both mechanical and thermal, with FAST and Alambeta instruments, to be translated in a powerful prediction model for the human psychophysical perception of crispness and coolness hand of both winter and summer men's suit fabrics made from animal fibers (wool, mohair, cashmere and alpaca). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

SeaCell® and SeaCell® Active fibers can be produced on the basis of the ZIMMER Lyocell process. One particularity of the SeaCell® fiber is its capacity to bind and absorb substances. During the activation of SeaCell® fibers the bactericidal metal silver is absorbed by the fully formed cellulosic fiber through metalsorption. The present study demonstrates the antifungal and antibacterial effect of SeaCell®Active in an in vitro test system against Candida albicans (DSM 11225) , Candida tropicalis (ATCC 1169) and Candida krusei (ATCC 6258). Furthermore, the antibacterial activity of fibers with different amounts of SeaCell® Active fibers in a dose-dependent manner against Staphylococcus aureus (ATCC 22923) and Escherichia coli (ATCC 35218) could be demonstrated. If this fiber seems to be suited for bio-active textiles in specific anatomical body regions and skin conditions with a susceptibility for fungal and bacterial infections namely with Candida species, Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli must be examined by means of further investigations, especially in vivo tests in human considering allergic and toxic effects of the fiber. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A bifunctional reactive disperse dye containing two temporarily anionic sulphatoethylsulphone groups was synthesised and applied to nylon 6 fabric by exhaust dyeing at a variety of pH levels and temperatures. A monofunctional reactive disperse dye containing one temporarily anionic sulphatoethylsulphone group was also synthesised, and its dyeing behaviour was compared with the bifunctional dye. The bifunctional reactive disperse dye exhibited high exhaustion and total fixation yield under alkaline conditions. The results also indicate that the introduction of two temporarily anionic sulphatoethylsulphone groups of the bifunctional dye gave an enhancement in dyeing performance compared with that of the monofunctional dye. The dyes also showed very good levelling and fastness properties on nylon 6 fabric. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article discusses the effects of processing parameters on the filament fiber diameter of spunbonded nonwoven fabrics. A model of polymer air drawing in a spunbonding process is established. It is stated that the filament fiber diameter of the spunbonded nonwoven fabric web can be predicted with the aid of the air drawing model. The effects of the process parameters include the polymer throughput rate, polymer melt temperature and primary air temperature.

The object of this study was to review the developments taking place during 1990–2005 regarding the use of quaternary ammonium salts as dye fixing agents for improving the fastness properties of anionic dyes on cellulose fibres. As far as fastness properties are concerned, this review is restricted only to fastness to light, washing and water treatments. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The generation of colour palettes and the production of ‘engineered standards’ are now mature technologies and are able to shorten significantly the colour selection and manufacturing process, giving improvements in colour quality control and cost reductions. These advances would not have been possible without the development of optimised colour-difference equations, improvements in laboratory dyeing techniques and computer colour matching together with the availability of digital communication. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

An exhaust application method for 4,6-( p- β-sulphatoethylsulphonyl)anilino-1,3,5-triazin-2(1 H)-one to dried lyocell fibre has been developed. The procedure employs a temperature gradient technique with all of the salt and alkali present at the start. This method gives consistent wet abrasion resistance values with a standard deviation only marginally inferior to Tencel A100. Subsequent dyeing of lyocell fibres, in turn with two reactive dyes, gave build-up profiles indistinguishable from untreated fibre. The lyocell–agent bonding was stable to high temperature polyester dyeing conditions at pH 6, but unexpectedly showed some instability (as evidenced by a fall in wet abrasion resistance values) when subjected to base-catalysed reactive dyeing conditions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

4,4′-Diamino- p-terphenyl and 4,4′-diamino- p-quaterphenyl were synthesised from readily available chemical intermediates. These compounds, along with 1,4-diaminophenylene and benzidine were examined in the Salmonella microsome assay with strains TA98 and TA100. The results of this study indicate that the mutagenicity of these diamines was the greatest for 4,4′-diamino- p-terphenyl, followed by diaminophenylene and benzidine, with 4,4′-diamino- p-quaterphenyl showing no mutagenicity. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Disazo direct dyes were synthesised using bis-diazotisation and coupling reactions involving 4,4′-diamino- p-terphenyl and 4,4′-diamino- p-quaterphenyl. The formation of the target dyes was confirmed by electrospray mass spectrometry and their mutagenicity was examined in the Salmonella microsome assay using TA98 and TA100. While most of these dyes were clearly non-mutagenic, results from the Prival modification of the standard assay showed that Congo Red and its homologue derived from 4,4′-diamino- p-terphenyl were clearly mutagenic. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study, 2-arylhydrazone-3-ketiminobutyronitriles were synthesised and reacted with hydrazine hydrate to afford 5-amino-4-arylazo-3-methyl-1 H-pyrazoles. These compounds were then diazotised and coupled with malononitrile to give pyrazolylazomalononitriles. Thirteen novel pyrazolo[5,1- c][1,2,4]triazine dyes were synthesised by heating pyrazolylazomalononitriles in glacial acetic acid and characterised by elemental analysis and spectral methods. The effect of varying pH and solvent upon the absorption ability of the dyes substituted with electron-withdrawing and electron-donating groups at their o-, m- and p-position was examined in detail. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

As an advanced oxidation method, Fenton's reagent has an advantage that it combines both oxidation and coagulation techniques. The aim of this study was to efficiently operate Fenton's reagent oxidation to degrade a reactive dye, CI Reactive Yellow 15, which is non-biodegradable and has high chemical oxygen demand. In addition, performance of the Fenton oxidation process for dye solution was determined by measuring the chemical oxygen demand and colour removal. The influence of the main operating parameters, iron sulphate and hydrogen peroxide concentration, pH, temperature and dye concentration have been studied, in a batch-type operation. The results obtained show that the best pH value for decolorisation was pH 3, with an average decolorisation of 98.7% and average removal of chemical oxygen demand ca. 93.3% at 15 °C for a 0.065 molar ratio of Fenton's reagent. An increase in temperature resulted in higher removal rates. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A study has been conducted into the dyeing of poly(lactic acid) fibres in supercritical carbon dioxide. The fibres were completely dyed using disperse dyes at 50 °C as shown by fibre cross-sections, although high colour depths in dark shades still prove challenging. Dye uptake increased significantly at temperatures ≥80 °C. At 95 °C in supercritical carbon dioxide, shrinkage and hardening of raw poly(lactic acid) were observed which could partly be overcome by the supercritical carbon dioxide extraction step. Afterclearing with cold supercritical carbon dioxide (to remove unfixed dye after dyeing) decreased the colour depth and led to non-uniform dyeing results on poly(lactic acid). Wash and rub fastness was good to very good also when poly(lactic acid) was not aftercleared in supercritical carbon dioxide. Fibre damage and elongation at break in supercritical carbon dioxide were similar to water. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Polymeric fibres are semicrystalline structures in which the macromolecules are rarely oriented in their equilibrium state. Further instabilities are imparted when the fibres are converted to yarns and the yarns to fabrics. Heat-setting is an important industrial process, as it reduces the fibre strain to an acceptable limit. This paper presents results of a study on the effects of various presettings (heat-, steam- and hot water-setting processes) on the dyeing properties of polyamide 6.6 fibres with acid dyestuffs. It was found that the colour yield is lower for dyed samples after dry heat-setting, but in the case of samples that have been hot water-set or steam-set, the colour yield increases slightly for light shades and remains constant for dark shades, compared with the unset dyed sample. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Machine parameters that possibly influence the dye-uptake rate on textile jet dyeing equipment are reviewed in this study. Some of these parameters can be adjusted on a pilot-scale jet machine so as to reproduce bulk conditions, whereas others cannot. It was impossible, for example, to simultaneously achieve appropriate values for the nozzle flow velocity and the dyebath circulation time. The fabric–liquor interchange in the storage area of the machine was also different on pilot scale and on bulk scale. Experiments on a pilot machine with a direct dye on cotton yielded, for most cases, no influence of fabric speed and dyebath flow rate on the dye-uptake rate despite high substantivity conditions. Only when the flow rate dropped below 50 dm3 min−1 kg−1, the exhaustion rate diminished approximately proportionally to the square root of the flow rate, probably because of dye depletion in the storage chamber. On the pilot machine, the jet nozzle did not appear to contribute to the overall fabric–liquor interchange. Implications for bulk jet dyeing machines are discussed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Decolorisation of a heterocyclic monoazo disperse dye by the yeast species. Candida tropicalis growing in mineral salt medium has been investigated. The effects of nutritional as well as environmental factors on the decolorisation efficiency were studied. Though Candida tropscalis displayed good growth in aerobic conditions, the colour removal was best under anoxic conditions. The degradation products of the decolorisation experiments under aerobic, as well as anoxic, conditions have also been identified. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study, the factors influencing the final colour yield of an ink-jet printed cotton fabric were investigated. The factors included the content of the pretreatment paste (the amounts of sodium alginate, sodium bicarbonate and urea) and the steaming time. Four different inks -- cyan, magenta, yellow and black -- were used in this study and the influences of these factors on the four different colours were studied through experimental design. The results showed that apart from the influence of individual factors, the final colour yield also depended on the interaction effect of the factors. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Monofluorotriazinyl and 5-chloro-2,4-difluoropyrimidinyl dyes were each reacted, in turn, with trimethyland triethyl-amine in aqueous solution. Trimethylamine was quaternised by both the fluoroheterocyclic reactive dyes. In the case of the chlorodifluoropyrimidinyl dye, NMR spectroscopy showed that displacement of the C-2 fluorine atom had occurred. Triethylamine, on the other hand, failed to react with either fluoroheterocycle, strongly suggesting that the covalent bond formation reaction of DEAE-cotton, with a 5-chloro-2,4-difluoropyrimidinyl dye under neutral conditions, does not involve initial quaternisation. A mechanism involving the deprotonation of the cellulose hydroxy groups, catalysed by the basic groups in DEAE-cotton, is proposed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The effect of four different enzymatic bioscouring systems for cotton have been compared in regard to the dyeability of reactive, cationic end acid dyes. The residual pectin content was determined and the results assessed in terms of dyeability against control samples prepared in the absence of enzyme. The capacity of a bifunctional reactive dye to cover the differences between fabrics treated with different bioscouring treatments was very good. Exhaustion of the cationic dye relative to alkaline scouring was increased by 27.5% and that of the acid dye decreased by 48.2%, indicating that pectin hydrolysis produced an increase in the negative charge on the fibre. The dye exhaustion differences between the four enzymatic systems studied were of significance and confirmed the hypothesis that each enzymatic system provides its own end-groups, resulting in differences in the response of the fibre to dyeing. Enzymatic bioscouring reduces the pollution level of the effluent. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A series of reactive cationic dyes containing the monofluorotriazine structure has been synthesised and their dyeing behaviour on wool, acrylic and a 50:50 wool/acrylic blend studied using a one-bath method. The results indicate that reactive cationic dyes having this structure give a high level of exhaustion and fixation on these fibres. Fastness properties on the wool/acrylic blend were also in general very good. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Over the past decades a great deal of research effort has been devoted to understanding the physico-chemical mechanism of the dyeing of cotton with reactive dyes. However, the use of physico-chemical models has been almost exclusively restricted to research laboratories due to the simplifying assumptions used. A more practical model has now been developed and is intended to allow dyeing recipes and the process parameters used in bulk production to be optimised. The model is additionally able to quantify the effect of non-controllable variables on overall dyeing efficiency. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A novel, colourless, water soluble, anionic cross-linking agent, 2,4-diacrylamidobenzenesulphonic acid, has been synthesised, applied to lyocell by a pad-steam method and the wet abrasion resistance measured. The agent furnished cross-linked lyocell fibres with good wet abrasion resistance and stable lyocell--agent bonds to subsequent hot exhaust reactive dyeing conditions. Surprisingly, the fibre--agent bonds showed some instability to polyester dyeing conditions at pH 4.5 and 5.0. This is rationalised in terms of hydrolysis of the amide bond ortho to the sulphonic acid group via a neighbouring group participation mechanism. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A number of direct and indirect techniques have been used to explore the durability of dye fixatives on laundering with anionic detergent formulations. The most useful technique for quantifying fixative loss was found to be UV spectroscopy but this is not applicable in every case. Overall, it was found that the fixatives examined were durable to six washes in a typical colour-care detergent formulation at 40 °C. It is concluded that a major contribution to dye loss from fixed cloth at low temperature is the displacement by anionic surfactant of dye bound to the fixative. In addition to being more substantive, good quality fixatives may compete more effectively for dye and may physically entrap the dye within the fibre. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Triethanolamine trisulphate (TES) was synthesised in good yield. The synthesis was monitored by capillary electrophoresis and this technique was also used to follow its hydrolysis and to analyse the residual products formed during its application to cellulose. In the presence of sodium hydroxide, TES was found to react covalently with cotton. Fabrics treated with alkaline TES solutions by a pad-cure method at elevated temperatures gave high wrinkle recovery angles, confirming that crosslinking with the cellulose molecular chains had occurred. Some yellowing was observed but whiteness of the fabric was improved by including a reducing agent. Despite the fact that the latter gave a slight decrease in wrinkle recovery values, it is clear that TES is highly promising as a crosslinking agent in the production of easy care cotton garments. Unlike most other agents used for this purpose, it has the advantage of avoiding the possibility of formaldehyde release. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Demonstrates the identification of dyes extracted from textile fibers and the utility of liquid chromatography mass spectrometry (LC-MS) for forensic trace analysis. Significance of the LC-MS in providing a high degree of chemical structural information; Characterization of dyes according to their molecular structures; Impact of triethylamine on electrospray ionization-mass spectrometry response of dyes containing multiple sulfonated groups.