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Lightening skin tone is an ancient and well-documented practice, and remains common practice among many cultures. Whitening agents such as corticosteroids, tretinoin and hydroquinone are medically applied to effectively lighten the skin tone of hyperpigmented lesions. However, when these agents are used cosmetically, they are associated with a variety of side-effect. Alternative agents, such as arbutin and its derivatives kojic acid and nicotinamide have been subsequently developed for cosmetic purposes. Unfortunately, some cosmetics contain whitening agents that are banned for use in cosmetic products. This article provides an overview of the mode of action and potential side-effects of cosmetic legal and illegal whitening agents, and the pattern of use of these types of products. Finally, an EU analysis of the health problems due to the presence of illegal products on the market is summarized. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

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ABSTRACT Background It is generally acknowledged that well-formulated moisturizing skin care products can restore disturbed barrier function that can be assessed by transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements. When ceramides and/or other barrier lipids are incorporated, it is, however, not always clearly demonstrated which ingredients of the formulation exert the beneficial effects. Objectives In this study the effects of topically applied ceramide-containing mixtures on the barrier repair of sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS)- and acetone-induced skin damage have been studied in human volunteers. TEWL and stratum corneum hydration measurements were carried out. The emulsions applied contained either a mixture of two types of ceramides, CerIII and CerIIIB (emulsion 1) or a complete mixture of ceramides III, IIIB and VI together with phytosphingosine, cholesterol and the free fatty acid linoleic acid (emulsion 2). Results After SLS damage, it was observed that barrier recovery was significantly accelerated by topical application (14 days, 2 ×/d) of emulsion 2 compared with the results obtained with emulsion 1. Corneometrical results were not relevant due to the occurrence of scaly fissured skin, failing to provide a good skin/probe contact. Although no effect on TEWL could be observed, the improvement of skin hydration after acetone treatment and a single application of the emulsions, was significantly more positive for emulsion 2 than for emulsion 1. Conclusions The investigative methods used in this study show that ceramides combined with other skin lipids can improve barrier repair after damage. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Editorial. Focuses on the water barrier function of the human skin. Structure and water content of stratum corneum (SC); Incorporation of ceramide 3B in dermatocosmetic emulsions; Regulation and modulation of SC lipids that are responsible for water barrier function.

Background: In previous work we reported on the efficacy of cosmetic body lotions enriched with skin-identical lipids to reduce the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) of ageing and sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS)-damaged skin. The observations made depended on the experimental design and clearly raised the question of the importance of the galenic formulation of skin ceramide-containing products., Objectives: The aim of the present work was to study the different galenic forms in which ceramide 3B (0.2% w/v) can be incorporated into common o/w emulsions. In addition, we investigated whether supplementation of skin care products with ceramide 3B enriched with penetration enhancers and coemulsifiers could exert a beneficial effect on barrier function, done by measuring their effects on the TEWL of SLS-induced scaly skin., Results: We found that the technique of incorporating ceramide 3B into the o/w emulsions was important for their final stability. However, no additional positive effect on the TEWL values of SLS-damaged skin could be observed when the efficacy of the ceramide-containing emulsions was compared with that of proper controls., Conclusions: Although suitable galenic formulas were developed, no positive effect on TEWL could be observed when ceramide 3B was added in a final concentration of 0.2% (w/v) to different o/w emulsions and applied to SLS-damaged skin.