3 results on '"Emilie Munnier"'
Search Results
2. Highlighting the efficiency of ultrasound‐based emulsifier‐free emulsions to penetrate reconstructed human skin
- Author
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Hichem Kichou, Yuri Dancik, Christophe Eklouh‐Molinier, Nicolas Huang, Martin Soucé, Laurianne Gressin, Guillaume Gillet, Igor Chourpa, Emilie Munnier, and Franck Bonnier
- Subjects
Aging ,Skin Absorption ,Pharmaceutical Science ,Cosmetics ,Dermatology ,Surface-Active Agents ,Colloid and Surface Chemistry ,Chemistry (miscellaneous) ,Caffeine ,Emulsifying Agents ,Drug Discovery ,Humans ,Emulsions ,Skin - Abstract
The cosmetic industry endeavours to strengthen the greener and safer claims of processes to respond to the high demand from customers for natural and environmentally friendly products. High-frequency ultrasonication technology (HFUT) is a physical process enabling the stabilization of emulsions without requiring additional ingredients, such as emulsifying surfactants (ES) to be introduced into the formulations. In this study, key formulation characteristics of an emulsion synthesized by HFUT and a reference emulsion (RE) were compared, as well as the permeation kinetics of caffeine, used as a model active cosmetic ingredient, from both types of emulsions.The pH, droplet size and viscosity of emulsions prepared by the HFUT and the RE were determined and compared. The permeation of caffeine from the HFUT emulsion and the RE applied to the surface of reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) models was compared.The ES-free formulations prepared by HFUT displayed a nearly 2-fold lower average droplet size and over 3-fold greater viscosity, compared to the RE. Despite these differences, the absence of ES in the HFUT emulsion did not significantly alter the permeation kinetics of caffeine through RHE. The caffeine steady-state flux, lag time and permeability coefficients differed by 20%-30% only.This study demonstrates the potential of the HFUT to yield topical cosmetic products with lower requirements ingredients-wise, without losing efficacy, supporting the possible implementation of the technology in the cosmetic industry.l’industrie cosmétique œuvre à renforcer les revendications plus écologiques et plus sûres des processus pour répondre à la forte demande des clients de produits naturels et plus respectueux de l’environnement. La technologie d’ultrasons à haute fréquence (High-Frequency Ultrasonication Technology, HFUT) est un processus physique permettant de stabiliser les émulsions sans qu’il soit nécessaire d’ajouter des ingrédients supplémentaires, tels que des surfactants émulsifiants, aux formulations. Dans cette étude, les principales caractéristiques de formulation d’une émulsion synthétisée par HFUT et d’une émulsion de référence ont été comparées, ainsi que la cinétique de perméation de la caféine, utilisée comme ingrédient cosmétique actif modèle, dans les deux types d’émulsion. MÉTHODES: le pH, la taille des gouttelettes, et la viscosité de l’émulsion préparée par HFUT et de l’émulsion de référence ont été déterminés et comparés. La perméation de la caféine de l’émulsion HFUT et de l’émulsion de référence appliquées à la surface de modèles d’épiderme humain reconstruit a été comparée. RÉSULTATS: la formulation sans surfactants émulsifiants préparée par HFUT présentait une taille moyenne de gouttelettes presque 2 fois plus faible et une viscosité plus de 3 fois supérieure comparée à l’émulsion de référence. Malgré ces différences, l’absence de surfactants émulsifiants dans l’émulsion HFUT n’a pas significativement modifié la cinétique de perméation de la caféine dans l’épiderme humain reconstruit. Le flux à l’état d’équilibre de la caféine, le temps de latence et les coefficients de perméabilité différaient de 20 à 30 % uniquement.cette étude démontre le potentiel de la technologie HFUT à générer des produits cosmétiques topiques possédant des exigences plus faibles en termes d’ingrédients, sans perte d’efficacité, soutenant la mise en œuvre éventuelle de la technologie dans l’industrie cosmétique.
- Published
- 2022
3. Confocal Raman spectroscopic imaging for in vitro monitoring of active ingredient penetration and distribution in reconstructed human epidermis model
- Author
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Emilie Munnier, Igor Chourpa, Franck Bonnier, Hugh J. Byrne, Ali Tfayli, Lynda Miloudi, Florent Yvergnaux, Nanomédicaments et Nanosondes, EA 6295 (NMNS), Université de Tours, Chimie Analytique Pharmaceutique - Faculté de Pharmacie (Lip(Sys)2), Université Paris-Sud - Paris 11 (UP11), Bioeurope Groupe Solabia, Focas Research Institute, Dublin Institute of Technology, and Université de Tours (UT)
- Subjects
Materials science ,[SDV.IB.IMA]Life Sciences [q-bio]/Bioengineering/Imaging ,Confocal ,Analytical chemistry ,General Physics and Astronomy ,Human Reconstructed Epidermis (RHE) ,02 engineering and technology ,Spectrum Analysis, Raman ,01 natural sciences ,General Biochemistry, Genetics and Molecular Biology ,Analytical Chemistry ,symbols.namesake ,[SDV.SP.MED]Life Sciences [q-bio]/Pharmaceutical sciences/Medication ,[CHIM.ANAL]Chemical Sciences/Analytical chemistry ,In vivo ,Confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy ,Image Processing, Computer-Assisted ,Humans ,penetration profiles ,General Materials Science ,Exponential decay ,ComputingMilieux_MISCELLANEOUS ,Transdermal ,Active ingredient ,010401 analytical chemistry ,General Engineering ,K-means clustering analysis ,General Chemistry ,Penetration (firestop) ,021001 nanoscience & nanotechnology ,Delipidol® ,In vitro ,Molecular Imaging ,0104 chemical sciences ,NCLS ,symbols ,Epidermis ,0210 nano-technology ,Raman spectroscopy ,Biomedical engineering - Abstract
Topically applied Active Cosmetic Ingredients (ACI) or Active Pharmaceutical Ingredients (API) efficacy is directly related to their efficiency of penetration in the skin. In vitro Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE) surrogate models offer in vivo like skin samples for transdermal studies. Using Delipidol®, an ACI currently used in the cosmetics industry, the capabilities to deliver accurate distribution maps and penetration profiles of this molecule by means of Confocal Raman spectroscopic Imaging have been demonstrated. Using a NCLS (Non negative constrained least squares) approach, contribution of specific molecules can be estimated at each point of spectral maps in order to deliver semi-quantitative heat maps representing the ACI levels in the different skin layers. The concentration profiles obtained are approximately single exponential for all three time points evaluated, with a consistent decay constant, which is independent of the sublayer structure. Notably, however, there is no significant penetration into the lower basal layers until a critical concentration is built up, after 3 hours. Combination of Raman Confocal Imaging with spectral unmixing methods such as NCLS is demonstrated to be a relevant approach for in vitro biological evaluation of cosmetic and pharmaceutical active ingredients and could easily be implemented as screening tool for industrial use.
- Published
- 2017
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