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Auxetic textiles are intriguing materials with unusual capabilities. These materials exhibit a negative Poisson's ratio with extraordinary performance in toughness, resilience, shear resistance, and acoustic properties mainly due to their special structure and associated deformation mechanics. Auxetic materials can also have applications around energy absorption and can effectively be used for vibration damping and shock absorbency. The exceptional behaviour of auxetic textiles can be obtained by utilising specific fibrous materials and introducing auxetic geometry and structures differently during weaving, knitting, and nonwoven manufacturing. This issue of Textile Progress highlights the fundamental aspects of various auxetic structures and their properties in general and a detailed analysis of auxetic textile structures and composites, their manufacturing processes, modelling, characterisation, and applications. These materials can potentially revolutionise their applications in sports, automotive, construction industry, biomedical engineering, aerospace, marine, and defence personal protective equipment. Fundamental understanding of auxetic geometry, followed by developing and analysing these geometries by analytical and computational modelling, translating the geometry into appropriate textile structures for actual fabric production, characterisation of auxetic fabrics and their composites, and finally, some innovative applications in technical textiles are some of the fascinating issues addressed in this review. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objectives. Currently, numerous studies have focused on testing or modeling to evaluate the safe service life of thermal protective clothing after thermal aging, reducing the risk to occupational personnel. However, testing will render the garment unsuitable for subsequent use and a series of input parameters for modeling are not readily available. In this study, a novel image recognition strategy was proposed to discriminate the mechanical strength of thermal protective fabric after thermal aging based on transfer learning. Methods. Data augmentation was used to overcome the shortcoming of insufficient training samples. Four pre-trained models were used to explore their performance in three sample classification modes. Results. The experimental results show that the VGG-19 model achieves the best performance in the three-classification mode (accuracy = 91%). The model was more accurate in identifying fabric samples in the early and late stages of strength decline. For fabric samples in the middle stage of strength decline, the three-classification mode was better than the four-classification and six-classification modes. Conclusions. The findings provide novel insights into the image-based mechanical strength evaluation of thermal protective fabrics after aging. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

AbstractWhen we attempt to read visual messages in styles of dress within mass media such as film, it can help enlighten understanding of ourselves and nuanced messages we portray from a diverse range of cultures. Explained in qualitative methods, this paper explores pre- and post-World War II Japanese transnational dress through Mizoguchi 1956 film Akasen Chitai (Street Of Shame) and Imamura 1961 Buta to Gunkan (Pigs and Battleships), comparing how the clothed female body is reflective of political shifts in pre- and post-WWII Japanese culture. In order to contextualize and thus gain a clearer understanding of Japanese culture from both Japanese and Western perspectives, it is necessary to reflect on some of the history of Japan’s textiles pre-WWII and the garments produced by showing visual examples of them. In film, women’s bodies represent not only their own gender, but the role of men in society as well, which is true in real life. Imamura clearly looks at the human body as a context for society, applied specifically to how the female body is represented through what clothing and textiles she wears on her body, when and why; enabling the audience to decode cultural meanings as well as wider global, social and political significance. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The examines how the size of submicron zinc oxide particles impacts the ultraviolet (UV) protection properties of textiles, particularly cotton. It explores the relationship between particle size and the ability of textiles to block UV radiation, emphasizing that while smaller particle sizes can enhance UV protection within a specific range, there are optimal sizes that maximize this effect.

AbstractThis study delves into the realm of traditional Korean fashion/textile practice, known as traditional nubi and Tongyeong nubi (t/T nubi), and re-engineers it from a contemporary fashion perspective within the framework of cultural sustainability. Drawing upon the systemic design approach, the project employed specific activities to trace, decode, and reconfigure t/T nubi following the phases of exploration, reframing, creation, and catalyzation, aiming for innovative design in the contemporary fashion space. The paper emphasizes a holistic and iterative process, based on learning the practice of t/T nubi from artisans, understanding and recontextualizing the future envisaged for t/T nubi, and delivering creative outcomes. Utilizing the interpretative model of cultural sustainability through craft, the study also analyzed the outcomes, identifying impacts such as rethinking craft culture, decoding craft roots, and influencing craft culture. Striking a balance between safeguarding the practice and fostering creativity was challenging; however, the approach serves as a valuable reference for designers and/or artisans of traditional craft practice, bridging their knowledge and design thinking process with the enduring sustainability of this heritage craft. It also demonstrates the potential for designers to leverage traditional craft practices to drive innovation in design, production, and business. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Textiles are one of the most frequently collected items at crime scenes. Even so, the mechanisms that create bloodstains on textiles are not well understood. This is likely due to the wide range of textiles and the many surface treatments given to them to enhance their performance. In this study, the final appearance of 50 μl passive drip stains on four in-house knitted apparel textiles (scoured cotton, hydrophobic cotton, hydrophilic polyester and hydrophobic polyester) was investigated. The yarns used to make the knits were 167 dTex polyester filament and 342 dTex cotton staple yarns. They were knitted on the same knitting machine under nominally identical conditions. The area of bloodstains on the scoured cotton knit fabrics was 46 mm2 and 30 mm2 on the hydrophobic cotton. i.e. the stains on the hydrophilic cotton were 50% larger than on the hydrophobic cotton. The bloodstains on hydrophobic polyester were only 15.6 mm2, but were 242 mm2 on hydrophilic polyester, i.e. 15 times larger. The stain areas on the polyester were both smaller (hydrophobic finish) and larger (hydrophilic finish) than on the cotton fabrics. It is shown that these typical chemical treatments play a much more important role on bloodstain areas than fibre type or fabric construction. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Developing new fabric systems with excellent thermal protective performance is essential to protecting workers from hot pressurized steam hazards. In this study, a laminated fabric was selected and a weft-knitted spacer fabric was developed for steam protective fabric systems. Effects of the configuration of the fabric systems and heat setting of spacer fabric on performances were investigated. The results demonstrate that the developed spacer fabric significantly prolonged skin burn times compared with controls. However, heat setting of spacer fabric had a negligible effect on improving thermal protective performance. Spacer fabric provided superior thermal protection while ensuring thermal comfort and enhancing air permeability, especially for spacer fabric after heat setting. Generally, a fabric system composed of a laminated outer shell and a spacer fabric is the best choice for steam protective clothing. The findings help develop a novel thermal liner to decrease energy transfer and provide better protection from pressurized steam. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The pick-up and transfer of easily deformable multi-layer fabrics is a challenge in the automation process of the textile industry. A transfer manipulator using interfacial adhesion forces has potential applications in the pick-up and transfer of fabrics. However, rapid adhesion and detachment cannot be achieved because of the small variability of adhesion and detachment forces between the fabric and the adhering material, which results in difficulty of picking and placing of fabric. To address this problem, in this study, an innovative pressure and strip manipulator structure is designed, utilizing the fabric gesture presented during the fabric peeling process to adjust the peel angle, and thereafter affect the adhesion force. The factors affecting the adhesion force, such as peeling speed, duration, and preload are analyzed, and a control method to regulate the adhesion force by peeling speed and the gap between the adhesion element and positioning block is proposed. Based on the interface adhesion force, the transfer manipulator can realize low-cost, high-stability, and high-efficiency fabric picking, which has good prospects for application in fabric production. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

AbstractA detailed knowledge of the deformation behavior of pouch motor contracting actuators (PMCA) improves their performance, and researchers are always looking for materials and structures that can increase the actuator’s performance by better controlling these deformations. In this article, a novel PMCA is fabricated using three-dimensional (3D) knitting technology, and its constitutive material is spectra as a non-stretch yarn. However, the final fabric (loop structure) is stretchable in the course direction and non-stretchable in the wale direction (anisotropic structure). The advantage of using this technique is that the contraction in the transverse direction that existed in the previous actuators becomes the expansion improving the actuator performance by about 21% compared to prior counterparts. The available commercial software Abaqus2021 is used for simulation, and its results are verified with the experimental results. A comparative investigation between the presented PMCA and the previous silicone-based counterpart is performed. A meso-macro deformation study is developed experimentally and numerically to justify the improvement of the presented PMCA. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article explores the precarity that surrounds the acquisition of techigi (yeddo hawthorn) trees, a material used in the production of traditional and contemporary textiles, on the island of Amami Ōshima, southern Japan. A waste product of industrial forestry, the article suggests that the difficulties craftspeople face in accessing techigi are symptoms of complex historical and contemporary processes linked to property regimes and resource management that have dispossessed local residents of ecological stewardship. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

An introduction and reflection on the selected papers at the 2021 Textile and Place Conference. Written by Uthra Rajgopal, Independent Curator, during her Curatorial Residency at the Shrujan Living and Learning Design Centre, Kutch, India. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Through the lens of the exhibition "Out of Place" (OOP), this paper investigates the commonalities between textile practices in the post-industrial cities of Manchester, UK and Hangzhou, China. By considering works that may exist on the periphery of textile practice, questions are raised concerning the shifting notion of textiles, particularly in regions that have deep textile histories. Through the reflections of Kate Egan, who curated the exhibition, and drawing upon the research of the fellow authors and their situatedness in Manchester, this article explores the notion of a virtual space in relation to the methods of communication employed throughout the Manchester-Hangzhou collaboration. Virtual space is presented here as an environment in which "textile narratives" take shape within and across different sites, examining contemporary methods of communication, collaboration and curation. Connecting Manchester and Hangzhou with this virtual space, the article expands the dialogue between artists at Manchester School of Art and China Academy of Art by reflecting on a common language of textiles and our contemporary manifestations of material culture. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The defining feature of the nuclear-free movement in New Zealand was people power: a groundswell of popular support which achieved a major change in government policy and became a turning point in our national identity. Creative expression was crucial to building visibility for the cause. By looking at the textiles produced at this time, we can both read the history of the movement and understand how New Zealanders saw ourselves and our place in the Pacific. Banners, fabric prints, and t-shirts used conventional protest messaging like peace signs and caricatures of key political figures. But it is the imagery chosen to support these messages which echoes a wider conversation in New Zealand's identity as a Pacific nation. In the 1980s and 1990s, an emerging "Pasifika" movement in craft and fashion adopted Pacific Island imagery to create a unique New Zealand style. Anti-nuclear textile designs formed a part of this, drawing upon the romanticized image of palm-tree-fringed islands, a natural paradise in which grotesque mushroom clouds had no place. This article considers how anti-nuclear textiles are a visible creative record of New Zealand's changing self-identity. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

By taking the textile and apparel value-added exports data of 43 economies as the research sample, the social network analysis method is used to measure the global textile and apparel value-added exports network structure. The results show that the world textile and apparel value-added trade network is uneven, China has the widest range of trading partners, and the breadth of trading partners is growing over time. Germany and Italy have a stronger ability to control trade among other economies, and China's ability to control trade with other economies is generally average, but the gap between China and Germany or Italy has narrowed significantly. China's core degree has risen sharply. The trade networks are concentrated in a small number of core zone countries. The small group located in China is characterized by contraction. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This review addresses the role of household washing machines in the release of plastic microfibers (MFs), and means to minimize emissions. Specifically, various strategies with potential to mitigate MFs discharge are critically evaluated, such as modifying laundering conditions and implementing point-of-use capturing systems. The currently available point-of use devices for MFs removal are associated with technical limitations, and obtaining a complete removal of the plastic contaminants remains an open challenge. To allow safe wash water discharge and target impending regulations, point-of-use devices should be user-friendly, compatible with washing machines, easily maintainable, and provide near complete removal of MFs. Advantages, limitations, and challenges of capturing devices are thus critically discussed, and possible improvement strategies are proposed. MFs detection techniques are also briefly presented in this review, and the need for standardization and simplification is highlighted. Overall, efforts are required to promote a wide approach toward environment-friendly laundering of textiles, including source control, encouraging biodegradable materials use and recycling, and implementing effective filtration and treatment processes for MFs, both at the point-of-use and in centralized treatment plants. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study aimed to determine dust-phase phthalate levels in 112 dormitories of 14 universities during autumn and winter, investigate their potential sources, and estimate phthalate exposure via dust ingestion. Twelve phthalates were detected, among which di-(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP) and dicyclohexyl phthalate (DCHP) were the most abundant, followed by di-isobutyl phthalate (DiBP) and di-n-butyl phthalate (DnBP). The median concentrations and contributions of DCHP and DEHP were the highest. The contributions of di-n-octyl phthalate and di-nonyl phthalate were higher in winter than in autumn. Potential sources included iron furniture, chemical fiber textiles, clothes, and personal care products. Medium-density fiberboard furniture is a potential sink for phthalates. In two seasons, DEHP, DCHP, DiBP, and DnBP were the main phthalates ingested by college students. The median oral exposure of ten phthalates was higher in females than in males. College students have a high risk of exposure to DEHP in dormitories. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

"A New Deal for Navajo Weaving: Reform and Revival of Diné Textiles" by Jennifer McLerran is a comprehensive exploration of the history and cultural significance of Navajo weaving. The book examines the impact of New Deal programs on Native American arts and crafts during the Great Depression, highlighting the involvement of Navajo weavers. McLerran emphasizes the importance of cultural knowledge and the matrilineal society of the Diné people in preserving and passing down weaving traditions. The book also delves into the complexities of government programs, Euro-American influences, and the challenges faced by Navajo weavers in maintaining their cultural practices. Overall, the book provides valuable insights into the history and evolution of Navajo weaving and its significance within Native American culture. [Extracted from the article]

Wynwood, Miami, is a world-renowned global art canvas of street art and cultural production site. The rise of Miami as a global arts city and its hosting of Arts Basel enhanced the place marketing of Wynwood. Wynwood's recent trajectory is driven by the confluence of art, real estate, and urban planning. Its redevelopment over time has been dramatic, transitioning from a low‐income immigrant neighborhood and warehouse district into innovative artistic milieu. In the 2020s the neighborhood is being highly commodified, resulting in the loss of artistic capital replaced by trendy retail, condo, and hotel projects. Our analysis is primarily based on interviews with gallery owners in 2016 and 2022, as well as planning documents and business census data. Wynwood as an art venue has peaked, and artists and galleries are exiting. Nonetheless, Wynwood continues to be marketed as an arts neighborhood by property developers and retail and entertainment businesses [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Dust resuspension from four typical fabrics (cotton, linen, silk, and polyester) exposed to airflow with common velocities within 0–10 m/s, including a moving fabric case and a fixed fabric case, was experimentally studied in this article. A set of empirical correlations, involving air velocity, fabric motion mode, fabric type, and airflow duration was developed to describe and predict the moving fabric case. It was found that a stronger-than-expected resuspension was triggered by short-term accelerating airflow. The resuspension enhancement of over 90% was reported for the moving fabrics compared with the fixed ones. Fabric motion induced by airflow was proposed to account for these resuspension findings. Fabric acceleration was then demonstrated to be a key factor in evaluating the resuspension for such a scenario. This article not only reveals an inconspicuous phenomenon of dust resuspension from fabrics under the impact of airflow and consequent fabric motion, but also provides a theoretical basis for particulate matter assessment and regulation. Copyright © 2024 American Association for Aerosol Research [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

During World War II, clothing and textile shortages led to a culture of reusing and repairing items. The Board of Trade issued "Make Do and Mend" leaflets that provided guidance on how to remake and adapt clothing. Sewing skills were essential for maintaining a wardrobe, and women's magazines emphasized the importance of looking stylish and fashionable. Clothing rationing was introduced, and the Utility Clothing Scheme aimed to provide attractive garments within the restrictions of wartime. People used creative methods to obtain fabric, such as repurposing architectural drawings and utilizing unconventional materials like coffin lining and rabbit fur. The resourcefulness extended to household items as well, with knitted washing up cloths and improvised shoelaces for hair styling. The article discusses the practice of "make do and mend" during World War II, where people repurposed and repaired clothing due to shortages and rationing. Tips and tricks for altering clothes were featured in women's magazines, and individuals were encouraged to learn sewing and repair skills through evening classes and women's organizations. Parachute silk became a popular fabric for making underwear, slips, blouses, and wedding dresses. The practice of recycling and reusing clothing continued even after the war ended. The article emphasizes the importance of sustainability and recycling in the present day. [Extracted from the article]

E-textiles have been the focus of interest in health technology, but little research has been done so far on how they could support persons with complex communication needs. A global estimate is that 97 million people may benefit from Augmentative and Alternative Communication (AAC). Unfortunately, despite the growing body of research, many persons with complex communication needs are left without functional means to communicate. This study aimed to address the lack of research in textile-based AAC and to build a picture of the issues that affect novel textile-based technology development. We arranged a focus group study for altogether 12 speech and language therapists to elicit user scenarios to understand needs, activities, and contexts when implementing a novel, textile-based technology in a user-centred approach. As a result, we present six user scenarios that were created for children to enhance their social interaction in everyday life when using textile-based technology that recognizes touch or detects motion. The persistent availability and the individual design to meet a person's capability along with ease of use and personalization were perceived important requirements. Through these scenarios, we identified technological constraints regarding the development of e-textile technology and its use in the AAC field, such as issues regarding sensors and providing power supply. Resolving the design constraints will lead to a feasible and portable e-textile AAC system. E-textiles are a novel approach to Augmentative and Alternative Communication (AAC) for children with motor dysfunctions and intellectual disabilities. -A portable AAC system implementing e-textiles for children with complex communication needs will enable several activities in daily-life situations. Therefore, further research is needed to resolve the design constraints to reduce the bulkiness of technology embedded in textiles, e.g., looking into the possibilities of passive and battery-free solutions. The developed user scenarios offer a starting point for developing initial prototypes for touch-based and motion-detection systems to enhance social interaction and motivation for persons with complex communication needs. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure is one of the most important risk factor among workers. it may stimulate health outcomes such as multiple skin injuries and blinding eye diseases. So, UV protection is mainly important for people who expose to it. Modification of cotton textiles by nanomaterials is a new approach to overcome this problem. So, the aim of this study is to review studies conducted on using ZnO nanoparticles for improving ultraviolet protection of cotton textiles. The search strategy was provided by cochrane guideline. 45 studies were regarded as appropriate. The results show that UPF for textiles has improved by coated ZnO. However, UPF was depended on the physicochemical characteristics of ZnO and textiles such as yarn structure, effect of woven fabric construction, fabric porosity, and impurity of textiles and laundering conditions. Also, plasma technology has improved UPF, it is recommended that more studies be done to achieve better results. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Subsidy rolls of the 1540s and 1560s from the collection of Thomas Gregory, Coventry city clerk from 1528 to 1570, provide relative comparisons among Coventry's wards over time. The various wards remained fairly consistent in relative wealth during the sixteenth century, and despite more diverse markets in the latter part of the century textiles still remained important. The central wards were the wealthiest, and wealth decreased moving towards the suburbs. The outer wards and suburbs were not necessarily poor, they just held few of the wealthiest merchants. The suburban wards of Spon and Gosford benefited from the growth of cap making. The incredibly wealthy wool and cloth merchants disappear by the mid-sixteenth century, but there is clear retention of the class of moderately wealthy gentry and merchants. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article discusses the meaning and significance of Gringsing textiles for people of Tenganan Pegringsingan village specifically, and for people in Bali more generally. People in this village treat Gringsing textiles as a sacred object that provides protection for the people who make and wear it. The textile's name aligns with the literal meaning of Gringsing, which is the absence of, or protection from, illnesses. The concept of protection interconnects the makers and the users. During the process of creation, the makers create protection through each step of the process; then, in reciprocation, the textiles provide protection to the makers and users. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This research investigates traditional textile weaving among the people of Ologbin-Adewole in Ilorin, Nigeria. This traditional craft is one of the ancient crafts that gave Ologbin-Adewole recognition among other communities in Ilorin. Over the years, this indigenous thriving industry has dwindled both in production and skilled workers. The decline has been partly associated with the influence of westernization through the importation of European goods. This paper presents processes of textile production in Ologbin-Adewole as well as examines changes in the craft over time based on oral history and ethnographic records. This is aimed at documenting this important African art and preventing it from becoming a part of Africa's past. The paper concludes by bringing to limelight the significance of this indigenous craft of textile weaving among the people of Ologbin-Adewole. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article discusses the Textile Garden exhibition at the Museum für Gestaltung in Zürich, which showcases 63 works from the New Tapestry movement of the 1960s to the present day. The exhibition explores themes such as Stone, Weather, Growth, Blossom, Water, Field, Temple, Harvest, and Transience, and features works from the collections of the Museum für Gestaltung and Fondation Toms Pauli. The exhibition highlights the use of cords, yarns, and threads as raw materials by international textile artists to expand the possibilities of their art. The article also mentions specific artists and their works that are featured in the exhibition, emphasizing the diverse techniques and materials used in textile art. [Extracted from the article]

This study provides a contextual discussion and re-thinking of the concept of authenticity of West African Textile designs with the changing nature of art and design practices. It further discusses how textile fabrics have evolved through a complex mix of cultural assimilation, translation, transformation and migration; and simultaneously how the various African diasporas have created a dialogue that has shaped subsequent textile developments utilizing a delicate balance of cultural and textile discourses. The works of Yinka Shonibare, Trine Lindegaard, Philippe Bestenhieder, Junya Watanabe, El Anatsui, Grace Ndiritu and other artists and fashion designers who have drawn inspiration s from West African textile themes have been used as a means of discussing broader philosophical questions. Their works have found wider acceptance around the World and cast the right shadow for this study. These contemporary designers and artists have used West African textile fabrics in their work by exploring the uniqueness of their color, texture, symbolism, concepts or a combination of these characteristics. It has been inferred that shifting authenticities of process and materiality in contemporary art practice must be embraced as a positive phenomenon and must be considered to be part of a global creative endeavor. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article discusses the first exhibition presented by the HEIRLOOM Center for Art and Archives in Copenhagen, Denmark. The exhibition, titled "Textile Memories," focuses on contemporary and historical textiles and explores the importance of taking new approaches to understanding people and communities in light of the colonial past. The exhibition features the work of Danish artist Sonja Ferlov Mancoba and her husband Ernest Mancoba, as well as other contemporary artists. The article emphasizes the need for background knowledge to fully appreciate the exhibition and highlights the complex histories captured by textiles. [Extracted from the article]

In this paper, the researcher would like to propose a novel research methodology based on pleating action and how pleats are formulated, herein named "pliable logic." It provides a recursive and malleable production and thinking route that encourages researchers to seek meanings in between different phases of textile thinking and research. Through years of teaching, researching and making pleats, the researcher as a maker has come to an understanding that pleating, like other textile productions, for example, stitching and weaving, has its own philosophical stance as a distinct branch under textile thinking. Pliable logic merges three textile-thinking-related concepts, including "soft logic" from Pennia Barnett, Sarat Maharaj's description of Janis Jefferies' "creative production" and "plica ex plica" from Gilles Deleuze, all of which resonate to certain characters of pleats and pleating that establish the foundation of the methodology. The details of each element are illustrated in this paper. The intention of the paper is to (1) encourage textile design practitioners and researchers to consider their study and production from another perspective under textile thinking and to (2) emphasize that various textile fabrications do have a potential philosophical stance to broaden the scope of textile thinking. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article discusses the Contemporary Indigenous Textiles from Australia's Tropic Zone exhibition at the Cairns Art Gallery. The exhibition showcases textile designs from ten Indigenous community art centers across Australia's North East to North West regions. The textiles feature hand-printed designs that reflect the artists' connections to Country and celebrate Indigenous culture. The exhibition is spread across three gallery rooms and includes interpretive information about the art centers and artists. The article highlights the cultural significance and community benefits of textile design creation and production. [Extracted from the article]

The textile department at the Yorkshire College of Science was opened in 1875 and absorbed into the University of Leeds in 1904. Thereafter it was transformed from a well-equipped centre for technical education, meeting local industrial needs, to an applied science department of high academic achievement, and international renown, with a graduate employment record which was both successful and diverse. Throughout, it received the generous support of the Worshipful Company of Clothworkers. The transformation, which was neither straightforward nor painless, required a strategic response to each of three questions by three successive generations of university managers, as follows. Firstly, can a technical curriculum be sustained in a university setting? Secondly, can the study of textiles be redefined as an applied science? Thirdly, can other disciplines be included to provide broader insights? By considering the responses, this article explores the manner in which social relationships, academic behaviour, industrial practice, and industrial change interacted to shape the curriculum and the research agenda, during an era of large-scale textile production in the UK. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Geographical scholarship on making has established the interrelations between makers, materials and space. With this paper I explore how this scholarship can be developed to incorporate time through paying close attention to the time of making. Drawing on Karen Barad's (2003) theorisation of multiple and entangled temporalities and materialities; the time of making is interpreted as a constituent of making rather than a homogenous vessel within which making occurs. Using an autoethnographic study of upcycling used domestic textiles into bags, I assemble the practices of making and distribute these into its constituent parts of heterogenous materials, tools and skills. The time of making is studied through autoethnographic reflections on the iterative interactivity between these constituent parts. My reflections on the time of making develop in two ways. First, I consider how the temporal heterogeneity of making segues the (de)stabilising skills of sewing with moments of hesitation, preparation, undoing, repetition and organisation. Second, I detail how the life histories of materials and makers are remade through making. In particular the case study of upcycling reveals how the potential of materials can be realised through re-orientating the skills and practices of makers towards (re)making the life history of materials. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Healthcare personnel suffer from an increased risk of stress, burnout, and depression due to the challenges of the COVID-19 pandemic. Studies show that interactive smart textiles help people alleviate their emotions. In this research, we investigate how to utilise interactive textiles to help healthcare workers mitigate their negative feelings. We have designed a smart t-shirt that encourages its wearers to perform body movements to enhance their positive emotions, stimulated by vibrotactile and audio feedback mechanisms. We demonstrate our smart t-shirt's utility by asking healthcare workers (including physicians and nurses) to use it for five consecutive days. Our prototype design supports using it anywhere, including work, home, and other places. We evaluated our smart t-shirt prototype for emotion regulations at work for healthcare workers through an in-situ user study conducted at three hospitals. Results show that using the smart t-shirt positively impacts the healthcare workers' immediate emotion regulation when they experienced emotion fluctuation and provided a more positive attitude towards their work. We conclude by analysing the potential factors that influence emotions and outline the design space of e-textiles for emotion regulation in real-life use. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

We tested the efficacy of standard soil removal and bacterial reduction from textile. A life cycle analysis for different washing cycles was also performed. The results show that washing at 40 °C and 10 g/L was the most effective and resulted in good removal of standard soiling. However, bacteria reduction was highest at 60 °C, 5 g/L and 40 °C, 20 g/L (> 5 log CFU/carrier). With the 40 °C, 10 g/L scenario, we approached the standard requirements for household laundry of ~ 4 log CFU/carrier reduction and good soil removal. Howsoever, life cycle analysis shows that washing at 40 °C and 10 g/L has a higher environmental impact than 60 °C and 5 g/L due to the significant contribution of the detergent. Reducing energy consumption and reformulation of detergents needs to be implemented in the household laundry to achieve sustainable washing without compromising the quality. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This essay focuses on recent developments in the pedagogy of craftspeople. Beginning with an overview of post-Independence national design institutions, the essay focuses on more recent textile craft schools and training centres for hereditary and new craftspeople. These are staffed and often managed by hereditary craftspeople. Corporate philanthropy at various scales funds these institutions. Students learn to analyse hereditary craft, make it contemporary, learn about marketing and business practices. These organisations mark a shift in the terms set by colonial, statist and welfarist approaches to craft. Notions of 'authenticity' recede as pedagogy becomes dialogic and focuses on innovation. This creates a contingent sovereignty based on recognition and entrepreneurship. This study allows us to offer an art history of contemporary textile craft and an ethnography of the way gender, community, practice, labour, market and philanthropy are configured in such learning programmes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Global North's Second-hand Clothing (SHC) is disposed to third world nations, giving birth to massive import-based informal markets. In India, these SHCs are illegally imported and often cater to only an urban middle-class customer base. What caters to India's poor customers is the informal SHC trade called Chindhi1 trade (chindhi in Hindi means rags), practiced by a nomadic community named Waghri.2 Chindhiwallis,3 as they call themselves, practice an itinerant trade of exchanging old clothes for new utensils from urban Indian households to further sell to their rural/urban poor customers, thus operating a traditional and unique SHC recycling industry. This paper presents the informal work conditions of the Waghris, echoing the concerns of India's informal street vendors. Challenging working conditions, low-income earnings, informal markets, and limited access to wider trade opportunities marginalises the community. The author argues that what perpetuates it further is the stigma associated with their social identity as 'Denotified' and formerly criminalised nomadic community in the colonial era. While these communities are recognised in independent India, their traditional livelihoods and community-based trade networks have remained largely undocumented. This paper attempts to draw attention to one such community-based trade practice. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In the more than seven decades since Indian independence, the relationship between artisan and art in India has radically changed. Having lived in the Kutch region of Gujarat for thirty years and worked with traditional artisans there for fifty, the author presents a rich case study of the impact of commercialisation of textile traditions on artisan communities. The article examines changing patterns of patronage and production among textile artisan communities in Kutch. Drawing on extensive interviews with artisan graduates of a design education program that the author initiated in 2005, it documents how men as well as women tapped into creativity and gained individual recognition. But the success they sought ultimately entailed operation in a market beyond their social sphere. In the realm of the little-known market, men restrained their creativity. For women, persistent social constraints made familiarisation with the market much harder to achieve. However, women graduates who were able to consider crossing gender lines, similarly limited their creativity when they engaged with the market. The author argues that gender per se did not shape an artisan's traditional relationship to craft and creativity, but rather the relationship to the consumer, which had been determined by gender roles. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study analyzed checkout data from hardback and paperback volumes in the BYU library to determine if there was a difference in circulation rates. Based on usage from 2000 through 2020, hardback volumes are no more likely to circulate than paperbacks over that 20 year range, regardless of when the book was added to the collection or its subject (i.e. humanities, sciences, or social sciences). Also, the average number of circulations for these volumes was low enough that damage to a paperback book was unlikely. Given the lower price of paperbacks, academic library budgets may be better served buying paperbacks. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

T his Introduction frames a curated collection of articles on creativity in the knitwear sector, interrogating some of the ways in which creativity has been inspired, supported and manifested, from the home knitter to the internationally renowned designer, from the craft knitter to the industrial knitwear manufacturer. The contributions provide a diverse understanding of the creative practices of knitting, ranging from the skills of hand knitters to the machine knitting of the 1930s outerwear revolution, and from the investment in design of some of the leading knitwear companies, to the place of repetition in the creative practices of knitters of fair isle and aran knitwear. The collection also includes an interview with Di Gilpin and Sheila Greenwell of the Scottish knitwear company Di Gilpin whose handknitted garments grace the catwalks of top fashion houses, in which they explain how creativity informs both the design and making process. Contributors are drawn from the fields of history, textile studies, fashion and the business sector. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objectives. This study aimed to optimize modification of cotton-polyester textiles of workwear in terms of air permeability (AP), bending stiffness (BS) and near-infrared (NIR) reflectance using nanometal-embedded polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) polymer by a spray method. Methods. This experimental study was carried out to modify cotton-polyester textiles using nanoparticles of aluminum oxide (Al2O3), tin oxide (SnO) and zinc oxide (ZnO) embedded in PMMA polymer with different weight percentages by a spray method under 215-psi pressure. The surface temperature of the textiles induced by the NIR spectrum and their comfort in terms of AP and BS were measured according to Standard No. ASTM D737 and BS 3356, respectively. Results. Cotton (65%)-polyester (35%) textiles can be modified with a PMMA-based aluminum and zinc nanoparticle composite with equal weight percentage using a pressurized spray method with good durability. Also, most NIR reflection is in the textile coated with aluminum and ZnO nanoparticle composite in the PMMA base. Conclusions. It is recommended that this composite be used in future studies to impregnate the clothing textile of outdoor workers in hot and arid regions by a spray method under pressure and its effects be investigated on reducing heat stress in these workers. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this paper, a self-multiplexing textile antenna aided by a substrate integrated waveguide (SIW) is designed for wearable applications. The proposed antenna operates at wireless body area network (WBAN) frequencies such as 5, 5.2, 5.5 and 5.8 GHz. Extended unequal half mode substrate integrated waveguide (HMSIW) cavities are utilised for self-multiplexing operations with the open-ended magnetic wall working as the radiator for the proposed textile antenna. All the four unequal HMSIW cavities share the same electric wall which is realised using brass eyelets. The textile antenna is fabricated and the antenna parameters are measured to elucidate the proposed antenna concept. The port isolation has achieved above 33 dB between any ports. The measured gains for the four frequencies are above 5.1 dBi with high efficiency. The proposed multiplexing antenna is designed in 90 × 65 * 0.57 mm3 dimensions and the proposed antenna has exhibited good performance which makes it suitable for integrating with wearable devices and obviating the extra multiplexer circuits. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The ongoing growth of clothing, footwear, and accessories marketed as vegan requires the development of a usable definition for the segment, as well as a review of the classification system which has permeated the use of materials of animal origin within fashion. Guided by literature on fashion, veganism, and animal agriculture, this conceptual article discusses the tangible enactment of ideological values when applied in the context of fashion products and materials. Established within this article is that a vegan fashion or textile product be defined as one that ensures, throughout the supply chain, and in the fibers, materials and chemicals that were used to manufacture the end-product, to be devoid of any forms of animal involvement, namely through the avoidance of animal products, co-products, and by-products. Also suggested is that definitions of materials of animal origin should be reframed to acknowledge the level of involvement required from animals and insects in obtaining materials, namely their death, labor, or secretions. While traditional relationships between humans and animals are rarely questioned, this article, by recentring the animals as unwilling participants in the commercialization of their bodies, offers new ways to reflect upon the fashion industry's use of animals as resources. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The main goal of this study is to examine drying practices in order to make an objective evaluation of polyester woven fabric properties after several cycles of tumble-drying. Abrasion damage to polyester woven fabric during drying in a household tumble dryer are evaluated by SEM (scanning electron microscopy), smoothness appearance, dimensional stability and strain tests. Results showed that the surface of polyester fiber presented various damages after suffering from abrasion for a series of drying cycles, including peeling off, fragments flaking, spots and wrinkles, but no obvious fiber fracture or crack was found. And found that drying had little effect on smoothness appearance, dimensional stability and tensile strength. This indicated that drying had no overall effect on fabric physical and mechanical properties. Moreover, moisture loss patterns during drying as a function of time or temperature indicate possible ways to minimize dryer abrasion damage by reducing unnecessary tumble-drying time. This founding is helpful to understand of damage mechanism of polyester woven fabrics drying in dryer and proves that using tumble dryer to dry polyester woven fabrics is possible and effective. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this paper we investigate whether destruction due to natural disasters induces industries to increase their regional production efficiency using the case of pre-war Japan, a setting of frequent disasters and technological upgrading. To this end we compile a regional sectoral dataset of natural disaster destruction and production for machinery and textiles. We then employ a stochastic frontier analysis (SFA) approach to estimate the role of disaster events on changes in production efficiency. Our results show that earthquakes led to increases in efficiency for both machinery and textiles, although they were substantially greater for textiles due to the recovery persisting longer. Overall earthquakes contributed 6.8% of efficiency gains in textiles and 3.1% in machinery. However, allowing events to compound in their impact showed that such gains were dampened when there were damaging earthquakes in subsequent years. In contrast, for climate-related natural disaster events there is only weak, if any, evidence that these played a significant role in determining productive efficiency. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The clothing fabric and skin interact continuously across the many regions of users′ bodies during wear, which can lead to both physical skin damage and discomfort. Therefore, this investigation aimed to explore the regional differences in skin friction, tactile perception, and sensitivity in both females and males during the skin-textile interaction. The static and dynamic friction coefficient and textile perception (texture, stickiness, pleasantness, and discomfort) were measured across the 36 selected testing body areas by using a friction measurement device. The results revealed there was a significant difference in skin friction, tactile perceptions, and sensitivity across the various body regions. The anterior neck had the highest skin friction in both females and males, and participants generally rated higher texture perception in their anterior aspects compared to posterior and lateral regions. There was no significant difference in skin friction, tactile perception ratings, and sensitivity between females and males. Practitioner summary: This study sought to examine regional variations in skin friction, tactile perception, and sensitivity during the skin-textile interaction. There was a significant difference in skin friction, tactile perceptions, and sensitivity across the various body regions and no significant sex effect on skin friction, tactile perception ratings, and sensitivity. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This ongoing PhD study aims to explore the potential of shape-changing fashion and textiles for aesthetic haptic interaction and affective soma experiences using Research through Design methodology. The research has progressed through multiple workshops and design projects, with each one building upon the previous findings and contributing to the ongoing work. Design strategies and toolkits are developed to accommodate various interaction modalities, soma experiences, haptic patterns, and use contexts. Preliminary results show the potential of translating affective haptic experiences into fashion and textile design languages. It also contributes to the development of textile-craft-based shape-changing methods for hand-held tactile textile installation and body-worn haptic wearables design to generate engaging experiences. In the future study, I will verify the effectiveness of the developed design toolkits through workshops by engaging design students, thus preparing the study's outcomes for broader dissemination. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

To overcome the shortcomings of time-consuming manual measurement methods of fabric density, a novel density measurement method of woven fabrics using image analysis technology via the relative total variation model based on the view of structure extraction from texture (RTV-SFT) is developed. Firstly, a fabric image acquisition system of multi-zoom portable digital microscope is constructed to obtain color dyed fabric images. Secondly, creatively from the perspective of analyzing periodic structure information of image texture information, a new structure extraction from texture algorithm, namely RTV-SFT is proposed to process fabric images to obtain images without non-periodic texture information aiming to achieve accurate yarn segmentation. Finally, the woven fabric density is calculated by effectively adopting the gray level projection method with the improved Gaussian filter algorithm. In the experiment, compared with manual method, the accuracy of the proposed density measurement method is above 93.3%. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Synergistic combinations of the microsized copper filler and nanosized conductive fillers were applied to silicone-based conductive textile for improvement of electrical conductivity. Conductive composite textiles (CCTs) were manufactured through screen-printing and subsequent thermal curing of polydimethylsiloxane containing hybrid fillers. We examined changes in the electrical properties of the CCTs according to the type and concentration of nanosized fillers including silver nanowires, graphene nanoparticles, and carbon nanotubes. It was found that upon the addition of 0.5 wt% graphene, the electrical resistance was improved by 27% compared to that of the original CCT owing to the formation of an excellent conductive network. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Eighteenth-century consumption is often characterised in terms of an expanding world of goods, one that reflected an increasingly complex web of global trading links and cultural associations. Some have seen a growing role for empire in shaping the provision of goods and the consciousness of consumers, especially in terms of groceries and textiles; others have argued that Europe, especially Italy and France, was predominant in the minds of retailers and their customers. In this article, I build on these studies by exploring the placenames with which a wide range of groceries and textiles were labelled in stock lists, newspaper advertisements and receipted bills. My concern is to examine the varied meanings that these placenames carried for retailers and consumers: sometimes indicating provenance, but often overlaying this with messages about the material qualities of the products. Rather than mapping actual patterns of supply, therefore, the analysis opens up the mental geographies that helped shopkeepers and consumers to comprehend the world of goods available to them. In doing so, it provides important insights into England's changing position in the eighteenth-century world. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]