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Di Gilpin is the creative director and Sheila Greenwell the production manager of Di Gilpin, an independent knitwear design studio and workshop based in Fife, Scotland. From modest origins on Skye in the 1980s, Di Gilpin is now one of the few hand knitting businesses working with the fashion industry as well as maintaining a presence within the wider hand knitting community by producing knitting patterns, kits and its own brand of knitting yarn. The designs emanating from her small studio are some of the most distinctive to be found on the catwalk, showcasing the creativity and skill required to produce high quality, fashion-forward garments. Di Gilpin has long been an advocate for hand knitting-no machines are used in her business-and has drawn attention to the skill deficit in the sector. Collaborations with the Moray Firth Gansey Project, the Knitting-in-theRound network at the University of Glasgow and more recently with Knitwise and the Prince's Foundation to enhance hand knitting skills in the couture knitting sector, are all part of Di's commitment to the sustainability of the industry and the traditions of hand knit. In conversation with historian Lynn Abrams, Di and Sheila talked about the design philosophy of the company, Di's approach to designing a garment, the challenges of working with collaborators, the relationship between the creative and technical elements of designing knitwear and the problem of skill acquisition and training in the industry. To open the conversation we discussed how Di and Sheila go about designing a garment. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Although machine knitted garments are ubiquitous today, they have only been manufactured for little over a century. The growing popularity of knitted outerwear and the demand for readymade clothing during the interwar period gave hosiery manufacturers an opportunity to diversify their product range using machinery and processes previously only used for the production of underwear. This case study uses the surviving design books of a single company, Peter Scott and Co. Ltd, based in the Scottish Borders to explore a littleknown period of creative experimentation. The company exploited two very different types of production during the years between the wars. A comparison of these, and the garment designs they yielded, offers an opportunity to interrogate the relationships between design, product, and process. An examination of the relationship between product and machinery reveals influence and opportunity as well as negotiation and restriction. This case study not only assesses the influence of machinery on garment styling but also serves to place design into the context of business and industry, which can reveal how business dilemmas, choices and challenges impacted its use. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

T his article deals with the production of hand-knitted fashionable clothing in the British knitwear sector during the socalled designer boom of the 1980s. Drawing on a variety of sources including contemporary newspapers, investigative accounts, television documentaries, and instruction manuals, alongside newlycollected oral testimony from knitwear designers and their knitting outworkers (knitworkers), it explores creativity and the codependencies of manufacture and design in this sector. It challenges the pervading stereotypes that have long haunted the homework sector in British fashion, and argues that in knitwork, knitters have powerful creative agency over the clothes they produce. It demonstrates that far from being mute and obedient producers, knitworkers have made a significant contribution to the history of British knitwear, not only as skilled and talented makers but as influencers of its design heritage too. In this way, this article reconceptualises our understanding of what is meant by creativity in manual production and offers new ways of illuminating the significant creative exchange between maker and designer which until now has been neglected in the literature on both homeworking and the history of knitting more generally. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

T he image of knitting has waxed and waned throughout its history across the UK, being historically associated with women's domestic work. Nevertheless, hand knitting has demonstrated periods of great creativity and fashionability since the mid-nineteenth century. The twentieth century saw knitting move from the utility of wartime comforts for the troops, to high fashion in the 1920s and 1930s and again in the 1950s, but by the late 1960s hand-knitted clothes were seen as utilitarian and staid. However, from the early 1970s, a new wave of British designer/makers rediscovered the creative potential of knitting; traditional techniques were reinterpreted with color and pattern in a true renaissance of the art. This significant craft-led British design movement repositioned knitwear as fashion, and a new genre "designer knitwear" was born, named a "Knitwear Revolution" by fashion writer Suzy Menkes. This hand-made, textural, colorful, fun knitwear became highly popular "statement" fashion. This article makes an original contribution to fashion and knitwear history by examining this under-researched period, including through personal testimony of the author. It provides new insights into creative approaches to knitwear design and business practices exemplified by British designer fashion knitwear of the 1970s and 1980s and identifies the lasting influence of these small design-led businesses. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

T his Introduction frames a curated collection of articles on creativity in the knitwear sector, interrogating some of the ways in which creativity has been inspired, supported and manifested, from the home knitter to the internationally renowned designer, from the craft knitter to the industrial knitwear manufacturer. The contributions provide a diverse understanding of the creative practices of knitting, ranging from the skills of hand knitters to the machine knitting of the 1930s outerwear revolution, and from the investment in design of some of the leading knitwear companies, to the place of repetition in the creative practices of knitters of fair isle and aran knitwear. The collection also includes an interview with Di Gilpin and Sheila Greenwell of the Scottish knitwear company Di Gilpin whose handknitted garments grace the catwalks of top fashion houses, in which they explain how creativity informs both the design and making process. Contributors are drawn from the fields of history, textile studies, fashion and the business sector. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This work presents the advantages of using ultrasound (US) in the procedure of antimicrobial functionalization of cotton knitwear. Ultrasound-assisted extraction of bioactive components from plant material reduced the extraction time by 40% and increased the degree of utilization by 12.5% in comparison with conventional extraction. By optimizing the H2O2 bleaching process, it was found that the application of ultrasound resulted in reducing the temperature from 100 °C to 60 °C, the processing time by 30 min and the H2O2 concentration from 4% to 2%, while retaining the same weight loss, the appropriate degree of whiteness with preserved mechanical properties compared with treatment carried out without using ultrasound. Dyeing with the plant extract of Achillea millefolium L. using the ultrasonic atomization resulted in even coloration and antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli, with using minimum quantities of extract and 6.67 times shorter processing time in comparison with the bath exhaustion method. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A study was conducted to assess the dyeing efficiency of pashmina and pashmina blendedz knitted fabrics. The pashmina, wool and nylon fibers were blended into five different proportions. Each blend was spun into 48 Nm. The yarn thus prepared was processed into interlock knitted fabric on a circular knitting machine. The knitted fabric was divided into two portions. One part of knitted fabrics was subjected to acid dyeing before nylon dissolution, while another part was subjected to dyeing after nylon dissolution. Both the fabric types were evaluated for dyeing efficiency in terms of color values, and fastness properties, besides their mechanical properties. The results indicated that the removal of nylon from the blended fabric resulted in considerable reduction in tensile strength and areal density, however, the elongation properties were not much altered. After nylon dissolution, the color values and fastness properties showed slight reduction, depending upon the blend composition. The SEM images confirmed that the HCl treatment is efficient to remove the nylon from the blended fabric. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The authors structure the field of over-design, over-specification, and over-requirement (OOO) drawing from extant knowledge related to innovative managerial procedures in manufacturing systems, project portfolio management, and performance management. More specifically, we propose allowing the dominant perspectives of OOO and paving the way towards a coherent recognition foundation of innovative strategies in manufacturing systems. This lends itself to an analysis of innovative phenomena in design and production systems that generate OOO and helps to understand what the effects of the OOO on business performance are. The clothing industry in Italy was chosen as a target context because many innovative pioneering medium sized enterprises (MSEs) were operating in the industry. Because of the exploratory nature of the research, a multiple case study approach is adopted in this study. Drawing from extant managerial literature, the proposed structure shows which business model objects and interactions within R&D-manufacturing-marketing activities should be considered when engaging in managing innovative and temporary project portfolio. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract This article investigates textiles as translation and tribute through the work of artist Ellen Lesperance. Focusing on her body of work about the Greenham Common Women’s Peace Camp, exploring themes of activism, feminism and knitting. Drawing from photographs and archival footage, Lesperance faithfully recreates the patterns, symbols and colors of knitwear worn by women in the camp through intricate, gridded paintings. The knitwear was worn by the protesters to display messages of intent and affiliation to a political cause. Clothing is often used as a communication of protest, but these distinctive jumpers were each handmade incorporating hours of labor, love, and wear by the women in the camp. Lesperance’s detailed knitting patterns can be seen as figurative paintings honoring the female activists who made and wore the original pieces. This article examines how textiles can express ideology and lived experience and draws on my current research into how we can use the past to inform design for the future. It explores archival research, reinterpretation, and recreation as a method to invoke the original. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Recent historiographical trends have ensured the continued relevance of the strike at the Mansfield Mills' hosiery factory in Loughborough in 1972. How this dispute, one of three in the East Midlands in two years dubbed 'race strikes' by the press, gained notoriety and were interpreted as an exemplar of British working-class racism requires re-evaluation. The article uses sources underutilized in previous studies, including the archive of the National Union of Hosiery and Knitwear Workers (NUHKW), to better understand the industry, the traditions of the hosiery craft, and how its processes of training and promotion differed from other industries that experienced 'race strikes'. This article relocates the dispute within the processes of deindustrialization, demographic and social change, workplace culture, and the importance of press reportage in shaping interpretations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The development of textronic and miniaturization of textile sensors allow them to be used as elements of an innovative system for measuring the vital functions of young children. One of the important functions of this system is the measurement of respiratory rhythm, which is based on the variations in the resistance of a knitted fabric made of electrically conductive strands, integrated into baby underwear. The research presented in this article was carried out in order to select the optimum type of stitch used for knitting. The tests were carried out on five samples made of different types of stitches. The resistance studies of individual samples were performed during their operation. The selection of suitable stitches for stability and reliability of measurements was made. In the second stage of the study, two samples selected on the basis of stage 1 were subjected to continuous cycles of 5 h. Based on this two-step analysis, a stitch selection was made. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In Scandinavia there is a saying: "There is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothes." This is a sentiment one could apply to Detective Sarah Lund's sweater, a garment so significant that it appears in the TV drama The Killing as a character in its own right. Using the language and literature of knitting, this article considers the significance of one garment in one television drama series as a means of expressing the contemporary sublime; a quest for truth and justice by a lone figure in a chaotic landscape, smothered by institutionalization. The sweater will thus be discussed as neither guise nor disguise, but representative of the internal self, externalized and as a tool for negotiating personal morality within impersonal systems of power. So, Sarah must untangle herself from the smothering sweater in order to complete her journey, and reveal both herself and the killer. Here, Sarah's sweater is not merely knitwear, but the materialization of immorality clothed in the knitted and moral; it s a cover-up. As The Killing implies, murder is the tip of the iceberg; we all need to recognize that our Knitwear is killing us... [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This special issue contains articles derived from presentations originally given at the conference "In the Loop 3: The Voices of Knitting," held September 5-7, 2012, in Winchester, UK. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper focuses on the impact of a global production network on the local economy in which production is located, with a particular focus on labour. The network concerned involves knitwear production in Tiruppur, southern India. This has transformed the region surrounding Tiruppur as well as the town, as knitwear production has spread into the countryside. Many of those previously employed in agriculture have moved into knitwear manufacturing and associated activities. This paper uses data collected over a 30-year period in villages located 25–30 km north-west of Tiruppur to show how the local rural economy has changed as the knitwear sector has expanded. The knitwear industry has provided direct employment to a large number of people from less well-placed households, which now commute to work, and it has also pushed up wages in agriculture and other occupations, including those who are not directly related to the knitwear sector. Importantly, the impacts of the expansion of knitwear production have been highly differentiated: access to new opportunities in knitwear has been structured by gender, caste and age. The state has also played an important role. The paper draws attention to the significant effect on the local economy of welfare measures such as subsidised food and the national rural employment guarantee scheme. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Marl yarn, which is regularly used in knitwear and contributes to the scope of knitted fabrics, is often used in response to the colour effects that this yarn can offer the designer. Whilst there is relatively little understanding of the formation of such colour effects, this paper summarises a study on a marl yarn knitting technique to move the level of understanding forward. In this study, four elements: yarn type, yarn colours, knitting machine gauge, and knitting structure have each been considered within the knitting process. A set of 72 samples were knitted by combining different elements systematically. A new terminology ‘marledness’ has been defined and is referred to as: two plied or twisted yarns of different colours to form a knitted sample with colour effects that are evenly distributed in a dotted manner. If the yarns are not twisted together before knitting and tension variations occur, then the result can be a barred effect. Based on the criterion of ‘marledness’, 10 experts and 10 inexperienced observers were asked to rank the outcomes in order. These results allow for a better understanding on how to prepare the yarns and knitting process to achieve different degrees of marledness. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study provides us information about relationship between curling and knitted structure and density of two-guide bar warp-knitted fabrics. Five standard warp-knitted fabrics are produced with three densities (Tricot, Locknit, three-needle Satin, Reveres Locknit and three-needle Sharkskin). Certain cut lengths of sample fabrics in both wale and course direction are analyzed through image processing to define curling value. A mechanical model, a function of fabric structure and yarn parameters, is also suggested to predict the curling force. The results of experimental and theoretical results show a greater curling value for course-wise cut in comparison to that of wale-wise in all warp-knitted structures and densities. The lowest curling value is found for three-needle Sharkskin structure in both directions and all densities. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Capillary kinetics of textile knitted fabrics are investigated considering the effect of transverse swelling in fiber and yarn scales. A mathematical model was developed based on the industrial construction parameters, the capillary mechanism and the swelling ratio on both porosity scales: macro and micro. The capillary kinetics are used to determine the yarn and fiber diameters after swelling and compared to those determined using a microscopic method. In order to validate our model, a series of experiments was conducted on jersey knitted fabric using raw materials with different swelling ratios: cotton and PET. The results showed good agreement between the two methods of diameter determinations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Using the number of trademarks registered as an indicator, this article explores the functioning of the economies of product differentiation that characterise industrial districts. In order to assess the role of districts in the creation of trademarks, the analysis focuses on knitwear production, a highly competitive industry and a pioneer in brand creation in Spain, and examines the development of the country's two main knitwear districts during the twentieth century. The article presents empirical evidence from trademark and business records to show that more trademarks were created in these two districts than in other areas. The imitation and rivalry characteristic of industrial districts favoured the proliferation of trademarks and encouraged firms to diversify their products through the creation of new brands. It also suggests that the success of the brands was uneven and depended on the industrial structure in each district and the kind of product specialisation. In conclusion, not only were the industrial districts an important factor in brand creation, but brand consolidation was decisive in raising levels of competitiveness in knitwear districts in Spain. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study ranks the contribution of various fibre, yarn and fabric attributes to the pilling of wool knitwear. On the basis of an artificial neural network modelling, a combination of sensitivity analysis, forwards/backwards search and genetic algorithms was used to identify the importance of various fibre/yarn/fabric input parameters. The three different techniques show broad similarities in their assessment of which input parameters are important or are not important in affecting fabric pilling. The ranking shows that fabric cover factor has the most effect on pilling, followed by yarn count and thin places, fibre length, yarn twist, etc. It is further illustrated that the directional trend of the predicted pilling outputs for a selection of inputs was in line with the expected behaviour. To verify the findings of input feature selection, input factors deemed to have a small effect on the predicted pilling output, such as fibre length and diameter variations and curvature, were removed and the subsequent performance statistically compared to the original multi-layer perceptron. Differences between the outputs predicted by the original and pruned models are found not to be statistically significant at the 5% significance level. Results from this study may help manufacturers and knitwear designers in choosing the most appropriate materials and structures to reduce the pilling propensity of wool knitwear. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Although quality is a critical success factor for all types of business, its salience is to be driven home in Pakistan's business environment in general and its export-oriented business segment in Pakistan in particular. As a first part of this effort, we chose to study quality management in Pakistan's knitwear industry, whose combined share with readymade garments in Pakistan's total exports rose to 16.7% by 1997/1998. We mailed a postal self-completion questionnaire to 59 members of the Pakistan Knitwear and Sweaters Exporters Association. The response rate was 29%. It was found that Pakistan's knitwear industry was in various stages of development in quality management, with greater concentration in the quality inspection mode. Although there are attempts to graduate to quality assurance and beyond, it was found that considerable distance has yet to be traversed before Pakistan's knitwear industry acquires a quality philosophy as a part of its overall business approach industrywide. As part of a statistical test, however, advanced quality management concepts were found applicable in Pakistan, although the application is currently limited. These concepts must gain in popularity. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A theoretical model is proposed for prediction of the interface-pressure profile applied by plain-knitted elastomeric structures used in compression therapy. Compression therapy may he applied through pressure garments to prevent and reduce venous reflux and peripheral oedema. The interface pressure induced by a compression garment is defined by Laplace's equation, and the geometrical and mechanical behaviour of knitted structures is modelled to predict interface pressure. The geometrical mesostructure is modelled by parametric cubic-spline curves, and the mechanical system is modelled on energy-based principles. The model incorporates all possible mechanisms of deformation, including elongation, bending, compression, and volume changes of the yarns. The theoretical predictions are compared with experimental pressure profiles for four different radii of curvature. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article describes the case of the industrialization in France, particularly the cotton hosiery and knitwear industry from 1860 to 1914. Leaders of the said industry knew that they will not be able to monopolize the domestic market for luxury goods, especially with free trade treaties. It is noted that industrialists do not give information during the said period because of competition.

The article outlines the archaeological and historical evidence about the native sheep that provided the original raw material for the Channel Island knitwear. Textile remains show that European Iron Age sheep has a range of colours: black, grey, and white, while the Soay are brown. The excavation of a thirteenth-century house in Saint Helier, Jersey yielded a few bones from at least two sheep. Microscopic examination of a short length of woollen yarn found confirmed the identification as wool containing some hairy fibers and it was suggested that it had been dyed with carmine red.

Many researchers consider pilling to be a self-limiting process with little effect on fabric durability. Wear trials on woollen knitwear are described which show that pilling is self-limiting over the major part of the garment surface with the exception of zones such as the elbows and cuffs, which continue to generate pills throughout the life of the garment. An extensive microscopical examination of worn knitted garments showed little evidence of direct frictional wear even in severely damaged regions. Measurements of the fibre-diameter distribution showed that selective removal of coarse fibres had occurred as a result of biaxial-type fatigue and breakdown, whereas the removal of Ihe fine fibres probably occurred as a result of pilling. It is suggested that pilling is an important attrition mechanism for knitted fabrics and loosely woven fabrics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Knitted-fabric samples worn under normal wear-and-wash conditions were monitored for fuzz and pill development by means of lh macro-pill-mapping technique. The preferential-staining method was developed by using three dyestuffs in sequential treatments of reducing concentration to allow a time framework to be imposed on the development of fatigue damage. In this way, a detailed record was obtained of the changes In the fabric surface, and fibre damage was identified on a chronological basis. The sequential-staining technique revealed the pull-out/roll-up mechanism of pill growth, and the macro-pill-mapping examination confirmed the important rôle of laundering in the pilling process and provided evidence of a six-stage process of pill development and wear-off. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

An investigation is reported in which the dimensional properties of some double-jersey structures are compared under conditions whereby the run-in ratio, average loop length, cylinder-and-dial loop length, or dial-only loop length is maintained constant. It is concluded that, on the basis of the average loop length, K values, from which other dimensional parameters can be calculated, may be used to characterize the structures under investigation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper investigates the combined effects of machine variables and compressional parameters of knitted fabrics on scam shrinkage and thread consumption during chain-stitch sewing. The approach is based on the analysis of energies and the formation of dimensionless groups. It also briefly discusses the factors which affect the dynamic peak, average thread tension and the movements of the pressure bar as an appendix. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article demonstrates that there are a number of polymers or polymer mixtures that impart little shrink-resistance to untreated wool fabrics but improve the shrink-resistance to a level sufficient for machine-washable garments when either a mild chlorination or permonosulphate pretreatment is included. The combination of a cationic polymer and a polymer dispersion or emulsion appears to be more effective than either used alone in a number of cases. An effective batch shrink-resist treatment for worsted-spun wool knitwear that does not involve any degradative treatment still remains to be developed.

The aim of this paper is to describe how the knitwear/clothing industry in Carpi works and the changes that have occurred during the 1980s. During the past decade, strong competition from countries with lower labour costs and changes in the Italian consumers’ tastes have forced Carpi firms to change their ways of marketing and production in order to maintain, the level of competitiveness. The changes affecting Carpi’s district, analysed in this paper, refer to organization of production, diversification of production, economic relationships with firms outside the Carpi area and the local industrial policy in respect to Carpi firms. Thus, the Carpi district has been able not only to maintain the level of employment seen towards the end of the 1970s, but also to increase its production output. [ABSTRACT FROM PUBLISHER]

A simple technique for the planning of rib cuffs and welts for fully fashioned garments that is based on the classical knitting geometry of plain and 1 × 1 rib fabrics is described. The effects of cover factor and some common loop ratios at the join of 1 × 1 rib and plain fabrics on puckering at the knitted join and the effects of cover factor and some yam characteristics on cockling in plain-knitted fabrics are given. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The section of "The Production and Properties of Knitted Fabrics" takes into account the developments that took place in the field of knitted fabrics testing during July 1969-June 1971. It refers to certain research articles dealing with testing of knitted fabrics. According to a Russian research paper describing tests on several double-knitted fabrics, the use of coarser yarns, higher stitch densities, low-stretch structures, and spun may yield to increased washing stability. According to an experiment dealing with moisture and barrier properties of plain and knitted fabrics, the fabric interstices play an important role in the moisture-vapor flow through knitted fabrics.

The section of "The Production and Properties of Weft-Knitted Properties," presents information on the published materials related to the dyeing and finishing of knitted fabrics. Problems that are encountered in the handling and control of knitted fabrics are examined in several articles including one on the impact of the growth of knitted-fabric production on the structure of the dyeing and finishing industry. "The Knitting Times," lists details of 80 batch-type solvent-scouring machines that suited for processing knitwear.

The section of "Pilling" focuses on the formation of pilling in fabrics. The pills occurred during wear and washing by the entanglement of loose fibres which comes out from the surface of the fabric. Pilling is considered as an undesirable property of wool fabrics, especially knitwear. The formation of a fabric is very important in analyzing its susceptibility to pilling. Knitted fabrics are more prone to pill more easily than woven fabrics. Knitted constructions are constituted of a series of loops, which makes such fabrics more prone to abrasive wear.

The article discusses the history of the textile industry in the town of Hawick, Scotland, situated in the Scottish Borders council area. The history of the knitwear industry in Hawick starting in 1815 and business expansion in the 19th century with the use of knitting machines is discussed. Other topics include the tweed and hosiery trades, designer Otto Weisz's work with textile company Pringle of Scotland, and the decline of the tweed and knitwear trade in the 20th century.

If for traditional fashion design as clothes making or asbasicsfor the creation of fashion products the concept of good design is now acquired, knitwear is now facing its decisive change from hobby into project; the enhancement of craft (Micelli S. 2011) does not refer to any nostalgia for the past times, and even better in Italy it is a very fertile area to be innovated and experimented. The ability to innovate and promote new points of view in design processes does not arise only from a thorough understanding of specific areas, but also from a lifestyle open to diversity, that society has to accept and recognize (Micelli S . 2011). Today, the ability of designers to explore contexts in an original way, proposing ideas and results that are not just technical solutions of established problems, sees in creativity and in fashion design education the ability to solve problems through materials and their constant innovation for clothes, to experiment or to look at old problems in a different way with the aim of going beyond the usual “fashion” idea. This paper is written at the end of an educational experience in the Knit Design Lab at the School of Design of Politecnico di Milano, where Missoni, the most important Italian knitwear brand, together with Woolmark, the most influencing certification body at an international level for the promotion and enhancement of Merino wool, in collaboration with Knitlab, a digital platform for the learning of the traditional knitting techniques active in the School of Design at Politecnico di Milano, realized a project in which the knitting techniques have been the first tool for the creation, design and prototyping of a clothes collection for the spring-summer 2017, coherent with the brand identity of Missoni and with at least the 70% of merino wool as a condition dictated by Woolmark. The aim of the paper is to highlight the moments of convergence and differentiation regarding the methodologies and the design process into the different areas of design. In this way today we can talk about knitwear design: a specific field of Made in Italy completely changing: to become project, knitwear must produce garments and collections enhancing traditional techniques while expressing the spirit of time and in which the manual technique becomes a research tool and method to deal with all the aspects in their influence on the industrial production chain. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]