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Beach evolution is one of the key issues in coastal engineering. High computational efficiency model of beach evolution is limited by strong wave nonlinearity, flow acceleration, and sediment phase lag. The XBeach model is improved to cover the three limitations in the study. First, the near-bed velocity of nonlinear wave is reconstructed by using nonlinear parameters. Second, flow acceleration and sediment phase lag are taken into account for the near-bed sediment conditions to calculate the equilibrium concentration of suspended sediment and the transport rate of bed load. The response of sediment is not necessarily instantaneous to near-bed velocity in practical problems, but separated into a phase (time) shift between sediment concentration and velocity and a phase residual denoting sediment amount in moving at flow reversal. The improved XBeach model performs better results than the original XBeach model. Numerical experiments are carried out using the improved XBeach model to investigate the effects of wave height and sediment size. The numerical experiments show that the volume and range of erosion/deposition increase with the increase of wave height and decrease of sediment size, and deposition center moves to offshore. The perspective of wave energy and phase lag can explain the erosion/deposition variation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper presents the results of numerical study on the wave-induced currents and morphology changes due to the complicated interaction between waves and a sandy beach with shore-parallel breakwaters set on. The study was based on the SWASH wave model coupled with a sediment transport model developed in this research. The simulated results of the coupling model were compared with the published laboratory experimental data. The good agreements were obtained for both wave-induced currents and formation of salient and tombolo behind breakwaters. The models were also applied for studying the evolution of wave-induced currents associated with topography changes of a sandy beach. The wave-induced currents and sediment transport processes have a strong relationship and their interaction could reach a quasi-equilibrium state in which the changes of current pattern and bathymetry become very slow. Numerical results of shoreline response mode were also compared with a published empirical formula and confirmed good agreements. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In the last decade, the downdrift coast of the Loc An river mouth, Vung Tau province, Vietnam was subject to severe erosion. This was mainly due to the downdrift migration of the river mouth which had reached in total several kilometers over the past 30 years. This study presents the migration of the Loc An river mouth and the related consequences using long-term satellite images and field data. According to wave data analysis, the waves were separated in two different monsoon seasons, northeast and southwest and the characteristics of these waves in the two seasons are noticeably different. This led to contrary dominant directions of the longshore sediment transport between the two monsoon seasons. The river mouth migrated in the southwest direction around 3000 m in the period from 1979 to 2017 (80 m/year). This migration caused the erosion and the collapsing of the geotextile jetties on the right side of the river mouth. The change rate of the surface area of the updrift sand spit is utilized to estimate the longshore sediment rate which equals the order of 2.0 × 105 m3/year. It was noted that a re-occurrence of the breaching would be very difficult in the future due to the strengthening of the back side of updrift sand spit and the operation of the Song Ray reservoir. The migration caused the two jetties to become obsolete, which were constructed to stabilize the river mouth and ensure a smooth passage for the fishing boats. The primary action would be to remove the jetties, however, if this action proves too difficult to be actualized, immediate action like dredging deposited sediment and closing the gap would need to be taken in order for the jetties to become functional again. Additionally, this study illustrates the usefulness of using satellite images to investigate the long-term evolution of the morphology which is still active and where there is still a large amount of change such as in the river mouth area. This is very useful for the research carried out at this specific place or in the country which has limitations in the field and observed data. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Field observations were conducted during relatively mild wave conditions at a dissipative barred sandy beach to investigate the cross-shore sediment dynamics from the inner surf zone to the offshore side of the outer bar. Fluorescent sand tracers of five different colors were placed on the seabed at different cross-shore locations, and sand core samples were extracted respectively 11 and 20 days after the placement of tracers. Moreover, nine cross-shore bathymetric/topographic beach surveys were conducted, and the water level, wave, and wind conditions were observed. The objective of this research was to investigate the mechanisms of the on- and offshore-directed sediment transport during the inner- and outer-bar accretion events. The analyzed results revealed that at the inner surf zone, the sediment was dominantly transported in the onshore direction. The sediment was also transported offshore-ward due to the undertow; however, this occurred until the offshore end of the trough region. Overall, the outer bar shape affected the on-offshore sediment transport rate. The sediment movements in the onshore region and offshore region of the outer bar were not related; however, the outer bar was formed with the sediments from both the inner- and outer-bar regions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Understanding the dynamics of wet granular materials is important for a range of applications, including levee safety, beach erosion, and scour around hydraulic structures. Several continuum models have been proposed recently to model the relevant processes for these applications at computationally tractable resolutions, which were derived using mixture theory approaches for granular and aerated flows. The thermodynamically constrained averaging theory is used to formulate a framework for three-phase flow models involving mechanistic conservation and balance principles for a set of entities consisting of phases, interfaces, and a common curve. The derived entropy inequality provides a basis for formulating permissibility conditions on closure relations. An example is provided showing how the entropy inequality derived in this work can be used to examine the closure relations in existing models. Results from this example show that this existing model violates entropy permissibility conditions. Several possible extensions and uses of this foundational work are summarized. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Beach erosion mechanisms were investigated for Kujukuri Beach, a 60-km-long sandy beach facing the Pacific Ocean, located in Chiba Prefecture, Japan. The longshore sediment transport rate was estimated using aerial photograph analysis, physical property measurements of beach sediment samples, and land subsidence estimation owing to paleo-groundwater pumping. Alongshore distribution of sediment grain size and thermoluminescence intensity revealed that the longshore sand transport from both ends would meet at x = 40 km, where x denotes the distance from the north end of the beach. Sediment loss caused by the land subsidence was estimated at 130,000 m3/year in the south, which was observed to play an essential role in the beach erosion, as compared with the relatively small amount of sediment transport in the south. An effective and comprehensive countermeasure was proposed in which the land subsidence could be mitigated through the restoration of pumped water in the coastal zone. The countermeasure was found effective in decreasing the sediment loss by 85,000 m3/year, thus changing the sediment budget of the whole Kujukuri Beach positive. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Textural and compositional characteristics of beach and bottom sediments collected from the beach-continental shelf of Alexandria region on the Mediterranean coast of Egypt were examined to search for quality nourishment borrow material, and to initially assess its compatibility with the existing native beaches. Sediment characteristics and carbonate content combined with analyses of coastal processes (waves and currents) and seabed morphology are also explored to interpret sediment transport pathways. Three sediment types composed of carbonate material are identified on the Alexandria shelf based on their texture and compositional characteristics. These are: Late Holocene to modern fine to medium sand (average Mz = 0.23 mm; range of 0.063-0.4 mm), a relict late Pleistocene to mid-Holocene shelly coarser material, coarse to very coarse sand (average Mz = 0.7 mm; range of 0.41-3.3 mm), and relict mud to very fine sand (average Mz = < 0.051 mm; < 0.063 mm). Textural and compositional evaluations indicate that the coarse-grained relict sand (54 km2) is locally found just seaward of the Alexandria Metropolitan area between water depths of ∼10 and 70 m; corresponds to 1 to 10 km distance from the coastline, and could be used as a nourishment and borrow material for eroded beaches of Alexandria that have experienced prolonged sediment deficiency combined with anthropogenic influences. Compatibility analysis indicates that the characteristics of the defined borrow material and those of the native beach are generally compatible with each other. With respect to the quality standards, the borrow material is similar to and slightly coarser than the native beach sand and also matches the same range of sorting (0.25-2.37 Ø) and carbonate content (8.0 to 99.9%); therefore it is compatible to use as a sand source for beach nourishment. Moreover, estimated overfill factor (RA) implies that eroded beaches would maintain a stable state following the sand-filling operation with a re-nourishment factor (Rj) of 0.39. Our observations indicate that shelf sediments, both relict and modern, are displaced northeasterly in the alongshore and offshore directions by the N and NW wave-induced currents in conjunction with the counter-clockwise geostrophic East Mediterranean current. These sediments are reworked and deposited as mixed carbonate and biogenic sands on the irregular rocky seafloor of the submerged ridges that characterize the inner shelf and are considered as the major source of sediment in the study region. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Small water storage dams are nowadays regarded as the ideal solution for the water-thirsty islands of the Greek Archipelago. Several of these dams have been already constructed and more are planned for the near future. However, dams can also create problems to coastal areas, particularly to the beaches found at the lower reaches of the dammed rivers. The present contribution reports the results of a study undertaken on the effects of such a dam located at Eressos, Lesbos (E. Mediterranean), using both morphological and sedimentological information and a GIS-based sediment erosion model. The results showed that Eressos Beach is currently under erosion, which however is spatially variable. The spatial variability of the beach erosion can only partly be explained by the patterns of longshore sediment transport, suggesting also a negative sedimentary balance. The results of the sediment erosion model showed that the dam retains more than half of the sediment produced in the basin, irrespective of the scenario used. Thus, it is likely that the effects of the dam on the downstream beach are already apparent. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A field investigation on sediment movement and beach evolution was performed in a fluvial system composed of the Samegawa River and the Nakoso coast, which experienced significant beach erosion recently. Analyses of regional sand volume in the system revealed that the rate of decrease in nearshore sand on the beach is of the same order as the rate of accumulation of sand in dam reservoirs. Dredging of the riverbed near the river mouth also influenced nearby shoreline retreat. Long-term changes in sand movement processes were estimated from the distribution of mineral composition included in the sediment samples collected in a wide area. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]