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Coastal response to anthropogenic climate change is of central importance to the infrastructure and inhabitants in these areas. Despite being globally ubiquitous, the stability of rock coasts has been largely neglected, and the expected acceleration of cliff erosion following sea-level rise has not been tested with empirical data, until now. We have optimised a coastal evolution model to topographic and cosmogenic radionuclide data to quantify cliff retreat rates for the past 8000 years and forecast rates for the next century. Here we show that rates of cliff retreat will increase by up to an order of magnitude by 2100 according to current predictions of sea-level rise: an increase much greater than previously predicted. This study challenges conventional coastal management practices by revealing that even historically stable rock coasts are highly sensitive to sea-level rise and should be included in future planning for global climate change response. Results forecast that cliff retreat rates will increase by up to an order of magnitude by 2100 according to current predictions of sea-level rise, and reveal that even historically stable rock coasts are highly sensitive to sea-level rise. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Accurately representing the bottom friction effect is a significant challenge in numerical tidal models. Bottom friction effects are commonly defined via parameter estimation techniques. However, the bottom friction coefficient (BFC) can be related to the roughness of the sea bed. Therefore, sedimentological data can be beneficial in estimating BFCs. Taking the Bristol Channel and Severn Estuary as a case study, we perform a number of BFC parameter estimation experiments, utilising sedimentological data in a variety of ways. Model performance is explored through the results of each parameter estimation experiment, including applications to tidal range and tidal stream resource assessment. We find that theoretically derived sediment-based BFCs are in most cases detrimental to model performance. However, good performance is obtained by retaining the spatial information provided by the sedimentological data in the formulation of the parameter estimation experiment; the spatially varying BFC can be represented as a piecewise-constant field following the spatial distribution of the observed sediment types. By solving the resulting low-dimensional parameter estimation problem, we obtain good model performance as measured against tide gauge data. This approach appears well suited to modelling tidal range energy resource, which is of particular interest in the case study region. However, the applicability of this approach for tidal stream resource assessment is limited, since modelled tidal currents exhibit a strong localised response to the BFC; the use of piecewise-constant (and therefore discontinuous) BFCs is found to be detrimental to model performance for tidal currents. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Calibration with respect to a bottom friction parameter is standard practice within numerical coastal ocean modelling. However, when this parameter is assumed to vary spatially, any calibration approach must address the issue of overfitting. In this work, we derive calibration problems in which the control parameters can be directly constrained by available observations, without overfitting. This is achieved by carefully selecting the ‘experiment design’, which in general encompasses both the observation strategy, and the choice of control parameters (i.e. the spatial variation of the friction field). In this work we focus on the latter, utilising existing observations available within our case study regions. We adapt a technique from the optimal experiment design (OED) literature, utilising model sensitivities computed via an adjoint-capable numerical shallow water model, Thetis. The OED method uses the model sensitivity to estimate the covariance of the estimated parameters corresponding to a given experiment design, without solving the corresponding parameter estimation problem. This facilitates the exploration of a large number of such experiment designs, to find the design producing the tightest parameter constraints. We take the Bristol Channel as a primary case study, using tide gauge data to estimate friction parameters corresponding to a piecewise-constant field. We first demonstrate that the OED framework produces reliable estimates of the parameter covariance, by comparison with results from a Bayesian inference algorithm. We subsequently demonstrate that solving an ‘optimal’ calibration problem leads to good model performance against both calibration and validation data, thus avoiding overfitting. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Hydro-morphodynamic modelling is an important tool that can be used in the protection of coastal zones. The models can be required to resolve spatial scales ranging from sub-metre to hundreds of kilometres and are computationally expensive. In this work, we apply mesh movement methods to a depth-averaged hydro-morphodynamic model for the first time, in order to tackle both these issues. Mesh movement methods are particularly well-suited to coastal problems as they allow the mesh to move in response to evolving flow and morphology structures. This new capability is demonstrated using test cases that exhibit complex evolving bathymetries and have moving wet-dry interfaces. In order to be able to simulate sediment transport in wet-dry domains, a new conservative discretisation approach has been developed as part of this work, as well as a sediment slide mechanism. For all test cases, we demonstrate how mesh movement methods can be used to reduce discretisation error and computational cost. We also show that the optimum parameter choices in the mesh movement monitor functions are fairly predictable based upon the physical characteristics of the test case, facilitating the use of mesh movement methods on further problems. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The generation and evolution of tidally-induced vortices in coastal and estuarine regions can influence water quality and sedimentary processes. These effects must be taken into consideration in the development of coastal reservoirs, barrages and lagoons, among other environmental flow applications. Results are presented here on the fate of large-scale vortices within confined tidally-forced domains. A computational approach is employed using the Thetis depth-averaged coastal ocean modeling framework. Initially, two test cases serve to demonstrate model capability in capturing the formation of dipoles downstream of oscillatory flow channels. Diagnostic quantities of vorticity and localized circulation are used to track the 2-D vortex evolution and dissipation. This approach is then applied to tidal lagoon geometries, where flows through the inlet induce a pair of counter rotating vortices (dipoles). Idealized model geometries and inlet conditions are used to determine the impact of three design parameters on large-scale vortical structures: (a) the lagoon geometry aspect ratio in the horizontal plane, (b) the inlet width and (c) the bathymetry profile as the coastline is approached. The dependence of vortex flushing behavior on the dimensionless ratio W i / UT (where W i is the width of the inlet channel, U is the maximum velocity and T is the tidal period) is reaffirmed, while the side walls and the sloping bathymetry are found to affect the vortex dissipation process. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The problem of flow separation around islands is investigated using a dynamically adaptive finite element model to allow for resolution of the shear layers that form in the advent of separation. The changes in secondary circulation and vertical motion that occur in both attached and separated flows are documented, as is the degree of closure of the wake eddies. In the numerical experiments presented, the strongest motion always takes place at the sides of the idealised island, where flow curvature and shear act together to induce ascent. In contrast, it is the slower motion within the wake eddies that allow streamlines to extend from the bottom to the surface. We find no evidence for closure of the wake eddies. Rather, all of our separated experiments show that streamlines that pass through the eddies originate outside of the shear layers and frictional boundary layers on the upstream side of the idealised island. The numerical experiments demonstrate the potential for dynamically adaptive, unstructured meshes to resolve the separated shear layers that occur downstream of the idealised island, as well as the narrow boundary layers that form on the island itself. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Modern mangroves are among the most carbon-rich biomes on Earth, but their long-term (≥106 years) impact on the global carbon cycle is unknown. The extent, productivity and preservation of mangroves are controlled by the interplay of tectonics, global sea level and sedimentation, including tide, wave and fluvial processes. The impact of these processes on mangrove-bearing successions in the Oligo-Miocene of the South China Sea (SCS) is evaluated herein. Palaeogeographic reconstructions, palaeotidal modelling and facies analysis suggest that elevated tidal range and bed shear stress optimized mangrove development along tide-influenced tropical coastlines. Preservation of mangrove organic carbon (OC) was promoted by high tectonic subsidence and fluvial sediment supply. Lithospheric storage of OC in peripheral SCS basins potentially exceeded 4,000 Gt (equivalent to 2,000 p.p.m. of atmospheric CO2). These results highlight the crucial impact of tectonic and oceanographic processes on mangrove OC sequestration within the global carbon cycle on geological timescales. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]