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Kelp forests may contribute substantially to ocean carbon sequestration, mainly through transporting kelp carbon away from the coast and into the deep sea. However, it is not clear if and how kelp detritus is transported across the continental shelf. Dense shelf water transport (DSWT) is associated with offshore flows along the seabed and provides an effective mechanism for cross-shelf transport. In this study, we determine how effective DSWT is in exporting kelp detritus beyond the continental shelf edge, by considering the transport of simulated sinking kelp detritus from a region of Australia's Great Southern Reef. We show that DSWT is the main mechanism that transports simulated kelp detritus past the continental shelf edge, and that export is negligible when DSWT does not occur. We find that 51% per year of simulated kelp detritus is transported past the continental shelf edge, or 17–29% when accounting for decomposition while in transit across the shelf. This is substantially more than initial global estimates. Because DSWT occurs in many mid-latitude locations around the world, where kelp forests are also most productive, export of kelp carbon from the coast could be considerably larger than initially expected. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Fifteen papers are included in this PAGEOPH topical issue "Sixty Years of Modern Tsunami Science, Volume 2: Challenges." The issue starts with a general introduction, and then briefly summarizes all contributions, first papers addressing general topics, and then articles grouped on a regional basis: Northern Pacific, Southeast Pacific, Southwest Pacific and Indonesia, and Mediterranean regions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Transport of water between the coast and the deeper ocean, across the continental shelf, is an important process for the distribution of biota, nutrients, suspended and dissolved material on the shelf. Presence of denser water on the inner continental shelf results in a cross-shelf density gradient that drives a gravitational circulation with offshore transport of denser water along the sea bed that is defined as Dense Shelf Water Cascade (DSWC). Analysis of field data, collected from multiple ocean glider data missions around Australia, confirmed that under a range of wind and tidal conditions, DSWC was a regular occurrence during autumn and winter months over a coastline spanning > 10,000 km. It is shown that even in the presence of relatively high wind- and tidal-induced vertical mixing, DSWCs were present due to the strength of the cross-shelf density gradient. The occurrence of DSWC around Australia is unique with continental scale forcing through air-sea fluxes that overcome local wind and tidal forcing. It is shown that DSWC acts as a conduit to transport suspended material across the continental shelf and is a critical process that influences water quality on the inner continental shelf. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Extensive partial mortality of intertidal corals was observed at the Houtman Abrolhos Islands, Western Australia, associated with extended and recurrent daytime low water levels from September to November 2018. Branching Acropora corals on shallow leeward reef platforms were emersed during the middle of day during the Austral spring due to diurnal tidal influences, seasonal mean sea-level minima associated with the southward flowing Leeuwin Current and interannual variability related to the El Niño–Southern Oscillation. Pre-emersion total live coral cover was estimated to be ~ 35%, dominated by Acropora (~ 24%). Post-emersion, live Acropora cover decreased to 11.1% (± 1.5 SE) and total cover to 21.7% (± 0.8 SE). Mortality of non-acroporid corals which were lower in the water column was not observed. Partial coral mortality associated with seasonal low tides and interannual variability in mean sea level is a universal process and under-reported driver of temporal variability in coral cover on intertidal reef platforms. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Large epipelagic fishes (> 30 kg maximum size) are known to display a variety of patterns of vertical movement. Although advances in the affordability and sophistication of electronic tags now allows researchers to routinely document these patterns, there is no standardised approach to classify these behaviours and investigate their physical and biological drivers. This paper reviews the existing knowledge of the vertical movements of large, epipelagic fishes and the evidence for the underlying factors that structure this behaviour. The review focuses on behaviours occurring at a range of temporal scales, from seconds to years. We propose that patterns of vertical movement in gill-breathing animals of the epipelagic are best characterised by the need to move continuously in a three-dimensional environment while optimising food encounter and energy expenditure, avoiding predators, searching for mates and remaining within the limits imposed by the physical environment on their physiology (notably water temperature and oxygen). Modern biologging technologies that record both the internal (body temperature, heart rate) and external physical environment coupled with direct recording of behaviour from tri-axial sensors and animal-borne cameras offer a new approach to the analysis of drivers of vertical movement. Ultimately, this can provide insights into the evolution of the behaviour and morphology of these animals. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Knowledge of regional wave climates is critical for coastal planning, management, and protection. In order to develop a regional wave climate, it is important to understand the atmospheric systems responsible for wave generation. This study examines the variability of the southwest Western Australian (SWWA) shelf and nearshore wind wave climate and its relationship to southern hemisphere climate variability represented by various atmospheric indices: the southern oscillation index (SOI), the Southern Annular Mode (SAM), the Indian Ocean Dipole Mode Index (DMI), the Indian Ocean Subtropical Dipole (IOSD), the latitudinal position of the subtropical high-pressure ridge (STRP), and the corresponding intensity of the subtropical ridge (STRI). A 21-year wave hindcast (1994-2014) of the SWWA continental shelf was created using the third generation wave model Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN), to analyse the seasonal and inter-annual wave climate variability and its relationship to the atmospheric regime. Strong relationships between wave heights and the STRP and the STRI, a moderate correlation between the wave climate and the SAM, and no significant correlation between SOI, DMI, and IOSD and the wave climate were found. Strong spatial, seasonal, and inter-annual variability, as well as seasonal longer-term trends in the mean wave climate were studied and linked to the latitudinal changes in the subtropical high-pressure ridge and the Southern Ocean storm belt. As the Southern Ocean storm belt and the subtropical high-pressure ridge shifted southward (northward) wave heights on the SWWA shelf region decreased (increased). The wave height anomalies appear to be driven by the same atmospheric conditions that influence rainfall variability in SWWA. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Analysis of 20-year time series of water levels in the northeastern Gulf of Mexico has revealed that meteotsunamis are ubiquitous in this region. On average, 1-3 meteotsunamis with wave heights >0.5 m occur each year in this area. The probability of meteotsunami occurrence is highest during March-April and June-August. Meteotsunamis in the northeastern Gulf of Mexico can be triggered by winter and summer extra-tropical storms and by tropical cyclones. In northwestern Florida most of the events are triggered by winter storms, while in west and southwest Florida they appear both in winter and summer. Atmospheric pressure and wind anomalies (periods <6 h) associated with the passage of squalls originated the majority of the observed meteotsunami events. The most intense meteotsunamigenic periods took place during El Niño periods (1997-1998, 2009-2010 and 2015-2016). Meteotsunamis were also active in 2005, a year characterized by exceptionally intense tropical cyclone activity. Meteotsunami incidence varied yearly and at periods between 2 and 5 years. Results from cross-wavelet analysis suggested that El Niño and meteotsunami activity are correlated at annual and longer-period bands. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Tide gauge data were used to identify the occurrence, characteristics, and cause of tsunamis of meteorological origin (termed 'meteotsunamis') along the Western Australian coast. This is the first study to identify meteotsunamis in this region, and the results indicated that they occur frequently. Although meteotsunamis are not catastrophic to the extent of major seismically induced basin-scale events, the wave heights of meteotsunamis examined at some local stations in this study were higher than those recorded through seismic tsunamis. In June 2012, a meteotsunami contributed to an extreme water-level event at Fremantle, which recorded the highest water level in over 115 years. Meteotsunamis (wave heights >0.4 m, when the mean tidal range in the region is ~0.5 m) were found to coincide with thunderstorms in summer and the passage of low-pressure systems during winter. Spectral analysis of tide gauge time series records showed that existing continental seiche oscillations (periods between 30 min and 5 h) were enhanced during the meteotsunamis, with a high proportion of energy transferred to the continental shelf oscillation period. Three recent meteotsunami events (22 March 2010, 10 June 2012, and 7 January 2013) two due to summer thunderstorms and one due to a winter frontal system were chosen for detailed analysis. The meteotsunami amplitudes were up to a factor 2 larger than the local tidal range and sometimes contributed up to 85 % of the non-tidal water signal. A single meteorological event was found to generate several meteotsunamis along the coast, up to 500 km apart, as the air pressure disturbance propagated over the continental shelf; however, the topography and local bathymetry of the continental shelf defined the local sea-level resonance characteristics at each location. With the available data (sea level and meteorological), the exact mechanisms for the generation of the meteotsunamis could not be isolated. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Ningaloo Reef, located along the northwest coast of Australia, is one of the longest fringing coral reefs in the world extending ~300 km. Similar to other fringing reefs, it consists of a barrier reef ~1-6 km offshore with occasional gaps, backed by a shallow lagoon. Wave breaking on the reef generates radiation stress gradients that produces wave setup across the reef and lagoon and mean currents across the reef. A section of Ningaloo Reef at Sandy Bay was chosen as the focus of an intense 6-week field experiment and numerical simulation using the wave model SWAN coupled to the three-dimensional circulation model ROMS. The physics of nearshore processes such as wave breaking, wave setup and mean flow across the reef was investigated in detail by examining the various momentum balances established in the system. The magnitude of the terms and the distance of their peaks from reef edge in the momentum balance were sensitive to the changes in mean sea level, e.g. the wave forces decreased as the mean water depth increased (and hence, wave breaking dissipation was reduced). This led to an increase in the wave power at the shoreline, a slight shift of the surf zone to the lee side of the reef and changes in the intensity of the circulation. The predicted hydrodynamic fields were input into a Lagrangian particle tracking model to estimate the transport time scale of the reef-lagoon system. Flushing time of the lagoon with the open ocean was computed using two definitions in renewal of semi-enclosed water basins and revealed the sensitivity of such a transport time scale to methods. An increase in the lagoon exchange rate at smaller mean sea-level rise and the decrease at higher mean sea-level rise was predicted through flushing time computed using both methods. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The incidence of major storm surges in the last decade have dramatically emphasized the immense destructive capabilities of extreme water level events, particularly when driven by severe tropical cyclones. Given this risk, it is vitally important that the exceedance probabilities of extreme water levels are accurately evaluated to inform risk-based flood and erosion management, engineering and for future land-use planning and to ensure the risk of catastrophic structural failures due to under-design or expensive wastes due to over-design are minimised. Australia has a long history of coastal flooding from tropical cyclones. Using a novel integration of two modeling techniques, this paper provides the first estimates of present day extreme water level exceedance probabilities around the whole coastline of Australia, and the first estimates that combine the influence of astronomical tides, storm surges generated by both extra-tropical and tropical cyclones, and seasonal and inter-annual variations in mean sea level. Initially, an analysis of tide gauge records has been used to assess the characteristics of tropical cyclone-induced surges around Australia. However, given the dearth (temporal and spatial) of information around much of the coastline, and therefore the inability of these gauge records to adequately describe the regional climatology, an observationally based stochastic tropical cyclone model has been developed to synthetically extend the tropical cyclone record to 10,000 years. Wind and pressure fields derived for these synthetically generated events have then been used to drive a hydrodynamic model of the Australian continental shelf region with annual maximum water levels extracted to estimate exceedance probabilities around the coastline. To validate this methodology, selected historic storm surge events have been simulated and resultant storm surges compared with gauge records. Tropical cyclone induced exceedance probabilities have been combined with estimates derived from a 61-year water level hindcast described in a companion paper to give a single estimate of present day extreme water level probabilities around the whole coastline of Australia. Results of this work are freely available to coastal engineers, managers and researchers via a web-based tool (). The described methodology could be applied to other regions of the world, like the US east coast, that are subject to both extra-tropical and tropical cyclones. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The occurrence of extreme water levels along low-lying, highly populated and/or developed coastlines can lead to considerable loss of life and billions of dollars of damage to coastal infrastructure. Therefore it is vitally important that the exceedance probabilities of extreme water levels are accurately evaluated to inform risk-based flood management, engineering and future land-use planning. This ensures the risk of catastrophic structural failures due to under-design or expensive wastes due to over-design are minimised. This paper estimates for the first time present day extreme water level exceedence probabilities around the whole coastline of Australia. A high-resolution depth averaged hydrodynamic model has been configured for the Australian continental shelf region and has been forced with tidal levels from a global tidal model and meteorological fields from a global reanalysis to generate a 61-year hindcast of water levels. Output from this model has been successfully validated against measurements from 30 tide gauge sites. At each numeric coastal grid point, extreme value distributions have been fitted to the derived time series of annual maxima and the several largest water levels each year to estimate exceedence probabilities. This provides a reliable estimate of water level probabilities around southern Australia; a region mainly impacted by extra-tropical cyclones. However, as the meteorological forcing used only weakly includes the effects of tropical cyclones, extreme water level probabilities are underestimated around the western, northern and north-eastern Australian coastline. In a companion paper we build on the work presented here and more accurately include tropical cyclone-induced surges in the estimation of extreme water level. The multi-decadal hindcast generated here has been used primarily to estimate extreme water level exceedance probabilities but could be used more widely in the future for a variety of other research and practical applications. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The circulation driven by wave breaking, tides and winds within a fringing coral reef system (Ningaloo Reef) in Western Australia was investigated using the ocean circulation model ROMS two-way coupled to the wave model SWAN. Currents within the system were dominantly forced by wave breaking, with flow driven over the shallow reefs and towards the lagoon, which returned to the ocean through channels in the reef. Hindcast model simulations were compared against an extensive field dataset, revealing that the coupled wave-circulation model could accurately predict the waves and currents throughout this morphologically complex reef-lagoon system. A detailed momentum budget analysis showed that, over the reef, a dominant cross-shore balance was established between radiation stress gradients and a pressure (mean water level) gradient (similar to a beach). Within the lagoon, alongshore currents were primarily balanced by alongshore gradients in wave setup, which drove flow towards (and ultimately out) the channels. The importance of these wave-driven currents to Ningaloo Reef was quantified over a full seasonal cycle, during periods when wave and wind conditions significantly differed. These results showed that wave breaking still overwhelmingly dominated the circulation and flushing of Ningaloo Reef throughout the year, with winds playing an insignificant role. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In southwest Western Australia, strong and persistent sea breezes are common between September and February. We hypothesized that on the inner continental shelf, in the absence of tidal forcing, the depth, magnitude, and lag times of the current speed and direction responses to sea breezes would vary though the water column as a function of the sea breeze intensity. To test this hypothesis, field data were used from four sites were that were in water depths of up to 13 m. Sites were located on the inner continental shelf and were on the open coast and in a semi-enclosed coastal embayment. The dominant spectral peak in currents at all sites indicated that the majority of the spectral energy contained in the currents was due to forcing by sea breezes. Currents were aligned with the local orientation of the shoreline. On a daily basis, the sea breezes resulted in increased current speeds and also changed the current directions through the water column. The correlation between wind-current speeds and directions with depth, and the lag time between the onset of the sea breeze and the response of currents, were dependent on the intensity of the sea breezes. A higher correlation between wind and current speeds occurred during strong sea breezes and was associated with shorter lag times for the response of the bottom currents. The lag times were validated with estimates of the vertical eddy viscosity. Solar heating caused the water column to stratify in summer and the sea breezes overcame this stratification. Sea breezes caused the mixed layer to deepen and the intensity of the stratification was correlated to the strength of the sea breezes. Weak sea breezes of <5 m s were associated with the strongest thermal stratification of the water column, up to 1°C between the surface and bottom layers (6 and 10 m below the surface). In comparison, strong sea breezes of >14 m s caused only slight thermal stratification up to 0.5°C. Apart from these effects on the vertical structure of water column, the sea breezes also influenced transport and mixing in the horizontal dimension. The sea breezes in southwest Western Australia rotated in an anticlockwise direction each day and this rotation was translated into the currents. This current rotation was more prominent in surface currents and in the coastal embayment compared to the open coast. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Quantifying the long-term variability in wave conditions incident on a coastline is critical for predicting its resilience to future changes in the wave climate. In this study, a 40-year wave hindcast of the southern Indian Ocean has been created to assess the inter-annual variability and longer-term changes in the wave climate around Western Australia (WA) between 1970 and 2009. The model was validated against measurements from five wave buoys located along the WA coast. Changes in the mean annual significant wave height, 90th percentile wave height, peak period and mean wave direction were assessed, and the tracks of all wave events generating wave heights above 7 m were digitised and analysed for significant changes. Results show strong annual and inter-annual variability in the mean significant wave height, the 90th percentile wave height and the number of large events (wave height > 7 m) that impact the WA coastline. A significant positive trend in annual mean wave height was found in the southwest region of WA over the 40-year simulation. This appears to be due to an increase in intensity of the storm belt in the Southern Ocean which is associated with an increasing positive polarity in the Southern Annular Mode. However, no significant trends were found in the 90th percentile wave height or the number of large wave events impacting Western Australia. Although the number of large wave events in the southern Indian Ocean have increased, their potential to impact the coastal regions of Western Australia are reduced due to storm tracks being located further south, therefore balancing the number of large wave events reaching the WA coast. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Tide gauge data collected from Sri Lanka (three stations) and Western Australia (eleven stations) during the Indian Ocean tsunamis, which occurred in December 2004, March 2005, July 2006, and September 2007, and incorporated five tsunamis, were examined to determine tsunami behaviour during these events. During the December 2004 tsunami, maximum wave heights of 3.87 m and 1.75 m were recorded at Colombo (Sri Lanka) and Bunbury (Western Australia), respectively. The results indicated that although the relative magnitudes of the tsunamis varied, the tsunami behaviour at each station was similar. This was due to the effect of the local and regional topography. At all tide gauges, the spectral energy corresponding to periods between 20 and 85 minutes increased during the tsunami. The sea-level data obtained from the west and south coasts of Sri Lanka (Colombo and Kirinda) indicated the importance of wave reflections from the Maldives Island chain, which produced the maximum wave two to three hours after the arrival of the first wave. In contrast, Trincomalee on the east coast did not show evidence of a reflected wave. Similarly, along the west coast of Australia, the highest waves occurred 15 hours after the arrival of the first wave. Here, based on travel times, we postulated that the waves were reflected from the Mascarene Ridge and/or the Island of Madagascar. Reflected waves were not present in the 2006 tsunami, where the primary waves propagated away from topographic features. One of the main influences of the tsunami was to set up oscillations at the local resonance frequency. Because Sri Lanka and Western Australia have relatively straight coastlines, these oscillations were related to the fundamental period of the shelf oscillation. For Colombo, this corresponded to 75-minute period, whereas in Geraldton and Busselton (Australia), the four-hour period was most prominent; at Jurien Bay and Fremantle, the resonance period was 2.7 hours. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Linear sandbanks are located globally in areas where there are strong currents and an abundance of sand. In the recent years, these sandbanks have become of strategic interest as a potential source of marine aggregates (sand and gravel) and mineral deposits. They form the seaward boundary of the nearshore zone and therefore are important for the stability of the coastal system. They also commonly reach the sea surface and thus pose a threat to navigation. Headland-associated linear sandbanks are a specific type of sandbanks which are located in the lee of coastal topographic features such as headlands and islands. Interaction between tidal currents and topographic features generate complex three-dimensional circulation patterns that significantly influence the distribution of sediments in the vicinity of the feature. Field and numerical model investigations of the three-dimensional flow structure have been undertaken on the Levillain Shoal, a headland-associated linear sandbank present in the lee of Cape Levillain (Shark Bay, Western Australia). The field data indicated the presence of secondary flows near the tip of the cape and around the bank which were re-produced in the numerical simulations. Numerical results have shown that residual eddies are not representative of the sediment transport and that secondary currents enhance the convergence of sediment towards the sandbank. Maintenance processes have been investigated. Sediment transport paths near the cape and the bank indicate that the sandbank is part of a sand circulation cell where the sand is circulating around the bank with exchanges between the sandbank and the headland. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Previous studies have shown that flow curvature in river bends generates a secondary circulation in the plane normal to the mean flow direction. A similar circulation pattern is shown to exist in oceanic situations when flows are subject to curvature, mainly due to interaction with topographic features. However, it is shown that, due to differences between oceanic conditions and river bends, theory and prediction methods based on the assumptions for river bends are invalid for oceanic flows. Via scaling arguments based on the equations of motion, that include both the effects of flow curvature and the Coriolis force, parameters that govern the different flow regimes are identified. The maximum strength of the secondary flow is derived for each flow regime and is verified using a three-dimensional (3-D) numerical model applied to an idealized island. It is also shown that upwelling, due to the generation of secondary flow, occurs off the tips of the headland or island, and its influence can extend far downstream. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

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Large-bodied pelagic ectotherms such as sharks need to maintain internal temperatures within a favourable range in order to maximise performance and be cost-efficient foragers. This implies that behavioural thermoregulation should be a key feature of the movements of these animals, although field evidence is limited. We used depth and temperature archives from pop-up satellite tags to investigate the role of temperature in driving vertical movements of 16 oceanic whitetip sharks, Carcharhinus longimanus, (OWTs). Spectral analysis, linear mixed modelling, segmented regression and multivariate techniques were used to examine the effect of mean sea surface temperature (SST) and mixed layer depth on vertical movements. OWTs continually oscillated throughout the upper 200 m of the water column. In summer when the water column was stratified with high SSTs, oscillations increased in amplitude and cycle length and sharks reduced the time spent in the upper 50 m. In winter when the water column was cooler and well-mixed, oscillations decreased in amplitude and cycle length and sharks frequently occupied the upper 50 m. SSTs of 28 oC marked a distinct change in vertical movements and the onset of thermoregulation strategies. Our results have implications for the ecology of these animals in a warming ocean. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal protection design heights typically consider the superimposed effects of tides, surges, waves, and relative sea-level rise (SLR), neglecting non-linear feedbacks between these forcing factors. Here, we use hydrodynamic modelling and multivariate statistics to show that shallow coastal areas are extremely sensitive to changing non-linear interactions between individual components caused by SLR. As sea-level increases, the depth-limitation of waves relaxes, resulting in waves with larger periods, greater amplitudes, and higher run-up; moreover, depth and frictional changes affect tide, surge, and wave characteristics, altering the relative importance of other risk factors. Consequently, sea-level driven changes in wave characteristics, and to a lesser extent, tides, amplify the resulting design heights by an average of 48-56%, relative to design changes caused by SLR alone. Since many of the world's most vulnerable coastlines are impacted by depth-limited waves, our results suggest that the overall influence of SLR may be greatly underestimated in many regions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]