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In view of globally rising skin cancer rates and harmful effects exerted by sunlight throughout the ultraviolet, visible and infrared ranges, an objective, safe and comprehensive method for determining sunscreen efficacy is required in order to warrant safe sun exposure. In this study, the influence of characteristic active ingredients (chemical filters, physical filters and antioxidants) on different sunscreen indicators, including the universal sun protection factor and the radical formation ratio, was determined and compared to their influence on sun protection factor values. Spectroscopic universal sun protection factor measurements were conducted ex vivo by analyzing tape strips taken from human skin, and radical formation ratio determination was performed via electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy using porcine ear skin ex vivo. The sun protection factor determination was conducted according to ISO standards (ISO 24444:2010). It was shown that chemical filters provide a protective effect which was measurable by all methods examined (spectroscopy, electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy and erythema formation). Physical filters, when used as single active ingredients, increased protective values in universal sun protection factor and sun protection factor measurements but exhibited no significant effect on universal sun protection factor measurements when used in combination with chemical filters or antioxidants. Antioxidants were shown to increase sun protection factor values. Radical formation ratio values were shown to be influenced merely by chemical filters, leading to the conclusion that the universal sun protection factor is the most suitable efficacy indicator for the ultraviolet range.

The Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD) recommends caffeine as a reference substance for in vitro skin absorption tests using Franz diffusion cells (FDC). However, it has not been possible to investigate the follicular penetration pathway using this method until now. The aim of this study was to develop a technique to allow the examination of the follicular penetration pathway of a substance penetrating into the skin. The OECD standard method was therefore combined with the follicle closing technique (FCT), an established in vivo method. By using test skin of varying follicular densities, different penetration values were obtained for the test substance caffeine. The follicular penetration rate was determined by an indirect calculation after modifying the in vivo FCT for use in the in vitro FDC. This method is the first to allow the differentiation of penetration pathways by combining the OECD standard method (using the FDC) and the FCT. Caffeine showed a surprisingly high rate of penetration through the follicular shunts in vitro.

In the past, it was assumed that the intercellular route was the only relevant penetration pathway for topically applied substances. Recent results on follicular penetration obtained at the Center for Experimental and Applied Cutaneous Physiology, Charité – Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Germany, emphasize that the hair follicles represent a highly relevant and efficient penetration pathway and reservoir for topically applied substances.