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Leather is made of collagen protein polymer, which is used in the manufacture of a variety of products including footwear, automotive upholstery, garments, and sports equipment. Animal skins/hides are converted into leather using a series of chemical processes. Of them, the tanning process is the most important chemical process that converts animal skins into leather by stabilising collagen fibre so that they do not putrefy. However, it is a hazardous process because of the use of various toxic chemicals in tanning, re-tanning and fatliquoring treatments producing toxic effluent. Over the years many tanning treatments based on chromium sulphate, and vegetable and synthetic tannins in combination with heavy metals, have been developed but tanning with chromium sulphate (known as Cr-tanning) is still the most effective, cheap, and widely used tanning process in the leather industry. Although the development of various improved Cr-tanning methods highly reduced the chemical and water consumption in leather tanning, it is still under scrutiny because of the production of effluent containing a harmful level of Cr and there is strong evidence that when the treated leather is disposed into the environment, part of the released trivalent chromium is converted into carcinogenic hexavalent chromium. Many sustainable alternatives to Cr-tanning based on chemical and enzymatic crosslinking, various bio-derived polymers, enzymes, modified zeolites, and nanostructured materials have been developed over the years with limited success. The alternative methods are either not as effective as Cr-tanning, affect the dyeability and other functional and organoleptic properties of leather, and or are cost-prohibitive. In this comprehensive review article, various tanning methods used in industry or studied in the laboratory are critically reviewed, and their advantages and disadvantages are outlined. The consumption of tanning agents, total chemicals including various auxiliaries and fatliquoring agents, and water in tanning, and the tanning performance and mechanical properties of the processed leather are compiled and compared. The reaction mechanisms of novel tanning agents with leather collagens and the future directions to make leather tanning more sustainable are outlined. This review article will be a guide for academicians/researchers/manufacturers involved in leather processing to develop more sustainable leather materials. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This report presents an evaluation of thiyl radical-induced cis / trans isomerism in double bond-containing elastomers, such as natural, polychloroprene, and polybutadiene rubbers. The study aims to extensively investigate structural changes in polymers after functionalisation using thiol-ene chemistry, a useful click reaction for modifying polymers and developing materials with new functionalities. The paper reports on the use of different thiols, and cis / trans isomerism was detected through 1 H NMR analysis, even at very low alkene/thiol mole ratios. The study finds that the configurational arrangements between non-functionalised elastomer units and thiolated units followed a trans -functionalised- cis units arrangement up to an alkene/thiol mole feed ratio of 0.3, while from 0.4 onward, a combination of trans -functionalised- cis and cis -functionalised- trans configurations are found. Additionally, it is observed that by increasing the level of functionalisation, the glass transition temperature of the resulting modified elastomer also increases. Overall, this study provides valuable insights into the effects of thiol-ene chemistry on the structure and properties of elastomers and could have important implications for the development of new materials with enhanced functionality., Competing Interests: There are no conflicts to declare., (This journal is © The Royal Society of Chemistry.)