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Licorice (Glycyrrhiza) species have been widely used as a traditional medicine and a natural sweetener in foods. The 18β-glycyrrhetinic acid (18β-GA) is a bioactive compound in licorice that exhibits potential anti-cancer, anti-inflammatory, and anti-microbial activities. Many synthesized derivatives of 18β-GA have been reported to be cytotoxic and suggested for the treatment of malignant diseases. In this study, we explored the possible pharmacological roles of an 18β-GA derivative in skin biology using primary human dermal fibroblasts and HaCaT keratinocytes as cell models. We found that this 18β-GA derivative did not cause cell death, but significantly enhanced the proliferation of dermal fibroblasts and HaCaT keratinocytes. A scratch wound healing assay revealed that the 18β-GA derivative promoted the migration of fibroblasts. Due to the important role of aquaporin-3 in cell migration and proliferation, we also investigated the expression of aquaporin-3 and found this compound up-regulated the expression of aquaporin-3 in dermal fibroblasts and HaCaT keratinocytes. In dermal fibroblasts, the 18β-GA derivative induced the phosphorylation of Akt, ERK, and p38. The inhibitor of Akt predominantly suppressed the 18β-GA derivative-induced expression of aquaporin-3. Collectively, this compound had a positive effect on the proliferation, migration, and aquaporin-3 expression of skin cells, implying its potential role in the treatment of skin diseases characterized by impaired wound healing or dermal defects.

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation, particularly ultraviolet A (UVA), is known to play a major role in photoaging of the human skin. Many studies have demonstrated that UV exposure causes the skin cells to generate reactive oxygen species and activates the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) pathway. Previous studies have also demonstrated that cycloheterophyllin has an antioxidant effect and can effectively scavenge free radicals. Extending the aforementioned investigations, in this study, human dermal fibroblasts were used to investigate the protective effect of cycloheterophyllin against UV-induced damage. We found that cycloheterophyllin not only significantly increased cell viability, but also attenuated the phosphorylation of MAPK after UVA exposure. Furthermore, cycloheterophyllin could reduce hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) generation and down-regulate H2O2-induced MAPK phosphorylation. In the in vivo studies, the topical application of cycloheterophyllin before UVA irradiation significantly decreased trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), erythema, and blood flow rate. These results indicate that cycloheterophyllin is a photoprotective agent that inhibits UVA-induced oxidative stress and damage, and could be used in the research on and prevention of skin photoaging.