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Recent in vivo investigations have shown that pretreatment with topical all-trans retinoic acid (RA) may diminish the skin response to sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS). This study evaluated the permeation of SLS through human skin after pretreatment with RA, and vice versa, by in vitro methods. The permeability coefficient of SLS (3.24 +/- 0.21 x 10(3) cm/h) and the 24-h cumulative amount of SLS (3.41 +/- 0.6% of dose applied) permeating RA-pretreated skin did not differ significantly from those across untreated skin (control) (P > 0.05). In contrast, the permeability coefficient of RA (0.23 +/- 0.05 x 10(3) cm/h) and its 24-h cumulative amount (0.37 +/- 0.05% of dose applied) penetrating SLS-pretreated skin were significantly greater than those permeating untreated skin (P < 0.05). Thus, an increase in RA penetration was induced by SLS pretreatment; however, pretreating the skin with RA did not inhibit the percutaneous permeation of SLS. Based on previous in vivo findings where RA reduced skin reactions to SLS, one would speculate that RA pretreatment may decrease SLS penetration. However, these penetration data do not necessarily uphold this presumption. Perhaps, other interactions between the substances and the skin, e.g. at cellular levels, may be responsible for the differing skin responses.

Topically applied all-trans retinoic acid (RA) is often associated with skin irritation. A detailed quantification of RA-induced functional changes in stratum corneum is, however, still limited. Using non-invasive bioengineering techniques of measurements of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum hydration and cutaneous blood flow (CBF), we quantified the irritant effects of 0.05% and 0.1% RA in ethanol on normal skin compared with 1% sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) in water as a model irritant in a 24-h occlusive patch-test assay. Additionally, in order to document data possibly related to the mechanism of action, skin responses to both compounds applied in tandem was also investigated over 18 days. The extent of the irritant response to 0.05 and 0.1% RA, respectively, were similar, implying analogous irritation potency. While RA caused more intense scaling than SLS, other skin responses to RA were significantly weaker than those due to SLS. An increase in TEWL, on day 7, in RA-exposed sites indicates a secondary delayed impairment of the stratum corneum (SC) barrier. In a tandem-design assay, pretreatment with RA appeared to reduce the irritant effects of SLS on SC hydration and CBF. In contrast, pre-exposure to SLS showed a synergestic response in erythema, scaling and TEWL. Our results demonstrate that RA, like SLS, is capable of impairing SC water barrier function, which may be responsible, in part, for the irritation associated with its topical use. However, the distinctive biological responses to these compounds suggest a different mode of action of RA and SLS. In addition, the precise reason for the unique results observed in the tandem-design assays is not clear.