NICOLA DE THOMASIS, a round-bellied, bearded, bespectacled man from the rough-hewn hills of Abruzzo, stood near the head of his dinner table, holding a pair of tongs -- and my fate -- in his hand. He had already placed on my plate an almost lethally large portion of spaghetti alla chitarra, dressed with the region's traditional tomato-and-lamb ragu, and his tong-bearing hand kept inching closer and closer to the communal pasta platter until, at last, he dove in with the instrument, scooped up a final, fatal tangle of noodles and added them to my dish. I was done for. But if I was going to die, this was absolutely the way to go. I had already sampled the family's wild-boar sausage, chunky prosciutto whose craggy appearance belied juicy depths, and sharp pecorino from the sheep that outnumber the humans in Abbateggio, this village (population 420) at the edge of Majella National Park. The spaghetti was thick and toothsome, made by the expert hands of Nicola's wife, Nicoletta, who'd sliced it on a chitarra, a guitarlike box of wires that gives the pasta flat, almost crisp edges. After that would come more: lamb chops, breaded and fried and drizzled with lemon, their rib bones arcing elegantly away from the meat; simple roasted potatoes; Savoy cabbage sauteed into the warm, vegetal equivalent of a grandmother's hug. [ABSTRACT FROM PUBLISHER]