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Studying skin barrier function is central to our understanding of many skin disorders. The past decade has seen a surge of skin barrier related investigative work. Genetic, biochemical and cell biology experiments have added much evidence to the importance of the barrier in disease pathogenesis of a variety of disorders including ichthyosis, atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. However, functional assays prove ever more important to demonstrate relevance of any of these findings. A paper published by Monash and Blank 60 years ago describes a stress test of the skin barrier, measuring skin barrier recovery, a functional test of tremendous implications. This seminal paper has not been cited for almost 15 years, time to acknowledge its critical importance and to review the relevance of this method today., (© 2019 John Wiley & Sons A/S. Published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

Caspase-14 is an enzyme that is expressed predominantly in cornifying epithelia and catalyses the degradation of profilaggrin. Additionally, caspase-14 plays an important role in the terminal differentiation of keratinocytes. However, how caspase-14 expression is regulated remains largely unknown. Here we demonstrate that ceramides (C(2) -Cer and C(6) -Cer), but not other sphingolipids (C(8) -glucosylceramides, sphinganine, sphingosine-1-phosphate or ceramide-1-phosphate), increase caspase-14 expression (mRNA and protein) in cultured human keratinocytes in a dose- and time-dependent manner. Inhibitors of glucosylceramide synthase and ceramidase increase endogenous ceramide levels and also increase caspase-14 expression, indicating an important regulatory role for ceramides and suggesting that the conversion of ceramides to other metabolites is not required. The increase in caspase-14 expression induced by ceramides is first seen at 16 h and requires new protein synthesis, suggesting that the ceramide-induced increase is likely an indirect effect. Furthermore, ceramides increase caspase-14 gene expression primarily by increasing transcription. Blocking de novo synthesis of ceramides does not affect caspase-14 expression, suggesting that basal expression is not dependent on ceramide levels. These studies show that ceramides, an important structural lipid, stimulate caspase-14 expression providing a mechanism for coordinately regulating the formation of lipid lamellar membranes with the formation of corneocytes., (© 2012 John Wiley & Sons A/S.)

Aquaporin 3 (AQP3), a member of the aquaglyceroporin family, which transports water and glycerol, is robustly expressed in epidermis and plays an important role in stratum corneum hydration, permeability barrier function and wound healing. PPAR and LXR activation regulates the expression of many proteins in the epidermis and thereby can affect epidermal function. Here, we report that PPARgamma activators markedly stimulate AQP3 mRNA expression in both undifferentiated and differentiated cultured human keratinocytes (CHKs). The increase in AQP3 mRNA by PPARgamma activator occurs in a dose- and time-dependent fashion. Increased AQP3 mRNA levels are accompanied by an increase in AQP3 protein in undifferentiated keratinocytes and a significant increase in glycerol uptake. Activation of LXR, RAR and RXR also increases AQP3 mRNA levels in undifferentiated and differentiated CHKs, but to a lesser extent. PPARdelta activation stimulates AQP3 expression in undifferentiated CHKs but decreases expression in differentiated CHKs. In contrast, PPARalpha activators do not alter AQP3 expression. AQP9 and AQP10, other members of aquaglyceroporin family, are less abundantly expressed in CHKs, and their expression levels are not significantly altered by treatment with LXR, PPAR, RAR or RXR activators. Finally, when topically applied, the PPARgamma activator, ciglitazone, induces AQP3 but not AQP9 gene expression in mouse epidermis. Our data demonstrate that PPAR and LXR activators stimulate AQP3 expression, providing an additional mechanism by which PPAR and LXR activators regulate epidermal function., (© 2011 John Wiley & Sons A/S.)

The regulation of epidermal ontogenesis is a complex process. Previous studies have shown that cytokines (IL-1, TNFalpha and IL-6) regulate permeability barrier homeostasis in adult mice. Recently, we reported that IL-1 and TNFalpha accelerate stratum corneum (SC) formation and permeability barrier development in foetal rodents. Here, we determined whether IL-6 also regulates SC formation and permeability barrier development during late gestation. Using a rat skin explant model, we demonstrated that IL-6 accelerates permeability barrier formation in a time- and dose-dependent fashion. This acceleration of barrier formation is attributable to (a) accelerated lamellar membrane maturation, (b) formation of a multi-layer SC and (c) enhanced expression of epidermal differentiation markers. When comparing epidermis of IL-6-deficient (knockout mice) and wild-type foetal mice at days 16-18, we could not detect any abnormalities in either SC formation or the expression of differentiation markers in knockout (KO) mice. In parallel, the basal expression levels of IL-6 mRNA in epidermis and IL-6 protein in amniotic fluid were very low, with only a minimal change in IL-6 receptor mRNA levels in epidermis of days 16-22 foetal mice. These low IL-6 levels may account, at least in part, for the absence of epidermal abnormalities in IL-6 KO mice. In conclusion, exogenous IL-6 accelerates epidermal ontogenesis, but it is not essential for normal epidermal maturation.

CD44 is a transmembrane glycoprotein expressed in various tissues including the skin. Previous studies indicated that CD44 is required for epidermal permeability barrier homeostasis and keratinocyte differentiation. Yet, while some studies have demonstrated that CD44 is critical for the development of inflammation, others have shown that CD44 is not essential for the development of cutaneous inflammation. In this study, we evaluated the changes in epidermal CD44 expression in a variety of skin inflammatory models and determined whether CD44 is required for the development of cutaneous inflammation. Inflammatory responses were compared in CD44 KO versus wild-type mice in acute models of irritant and allergic contact dermatitis, as well as in a subacute allergic contact dermatitis induced by repeated hapten treatment. Inflammatory responses were assessed by measuring ear thickness and epidermal hyperplasia in haematoxylin & eosin-stained sections. Our results demonstrate that: (i) epidermal CD44 expression increases in both acute and subacute cutaneous inflammatory models; and (ii) acute disruption of the epidermal permeability barrier function increases epidermal CD44 expression. Whereas inflammatory responses did not differ between CD44 KO and wild-type mice in acute models of irritant and allergic contact dermatitis, both inflammatory responses and epidermal hyperplasia increased in CD44 KO mice following repeated hapten challenges. These results show first, that permeability barrier disruption and inflammation stimulate epidermal CD44 expression, and second, that CD44 modulates epidermal proliferation and inflammatory responses in a subacute murine allergic contact dermatitis model.

While glucocorticoids (GC) exert beneficial effects (anti-inflammatory), they also have adverse effects on the epidermis including decreased epidermal differentiation, decreased keratinocyte proliferation, and decreased cutaneous permeability barrier homeostasis. Thus, the purpose of this study was to develop strategies to prevent these GC toxicities using simultaneous topical treatments in clobetasol-treated mice. While a triple-lipid mixture of stratum corneum lipids (ceramide, free fatty acid and cholesterol) was previously shown to reverse the GC-induced abnormality in cutaneous barrier function [J Invest Dermatol, 120 (2003) 456], this lipid mixture did not prevent the GC-induced abnormalities in either keratinocyte proliferation or differentiation. As activators of PPARalpha, beta/delta, gamma and LXR, regulate keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation and improve permeability barrier homeostasis, we next assessed the effects of these activators during concurrent GC treatment. Co-application of either ciglitazone (PPARgamma activator), clofibrate (PPARalpha activator) or 22R (OH) cholesterol (LXR activator) with clobetasol prevented the decrease in involucrin, filaggrin and loricrin expression. By contrast, a PPARbeta/delta activator (GW501516) normalized only the expression of involucrin and filaggrin but not loricrin. Moreover, topical application of PPARalpha, beta/delta or LXR activators partially prevented the decrease in keratinocyte proliferation in GC-treated murine skin, as measured using PCNA, while no effect was seen after co-treatment with PPARgamma activators. Finally, PPARgamma and PPARbeta/delta activators but not PPARalpha and LXR activators improved permeability barrier homeostasis in GC-treated mice. Together, these studies demonstrate that PPAR and LXR activators can prevent several of the adverse effects of topical GC on the epidermis.

While psoriasis is one of the most common skin disorders in humans, effective, safe and inexpensive treatments are still largely unavailable. Chinese herbal medicine (CHM) has been used for centuries for treating psoriasis and several reports claim that systemic administration of one such CHM, Tuhuai, mainly composed of flos sophorae, smilax glabra roxb and licorice, is effective in psoriasis. However, the mechanisms by which this CHM improves psoriasis are not yet clear. Two universal features of psoriasis are epidermal hyperplasia and inflammation. Moreover, drugs that specifically inhibit epidermal hyperplasia and/or inflammation are widely used to treat psoriasis. Here, we investigated whether topical applications of Tuhuai extract exhibit anti-proliferative and anti-inflammatory activities in two murine models of inflammatory dermatoses. To assess Tuhuai's potential anti-proliferative effect, we disrupted epidermal barrier function twice-daily for 4 days in normal hairless mice followed by topical applications of either 1% Tuhuai extract or Vehicle to both flanks immediately after each barrier perturbation. Changes in epidermal proliferation and apoptosis were evaluated by immunohistochemistry and TUNEL staining. To assess the anti-inflammatory effects of Tuhuai, both irritant (phorbol ester) and acute allergic contact dermatitis (oxazolone) models were used. Whereas topical Tuhuai extract did not alter epidermal proliferation or induce irritation in normal skin, it both reduced epidermal hyperplasia in the epidermal hyperproliferative model, and reduced inflammation in both irritant and allergic contact dermatitis models. As topical Tuhuai extract exhibits anti-proliferative and anti-inflammatory properties in a variety of human models of inflammatory dermatoses, Tuhuai could provide an effective, relatively safe and inexpensive therapeutic alternative for the treatment of inflammatory dermatoses, including psoriasis.

Permeability barrier function is measured with instruments that assess transepidermal water loss (TEWL), either with closed- or open-loop systems. Yet, the validity of TEWL as a measure of barrier status has been questioned recently. Hence, we tested the validity of this measure by comparing TEWL across a wide range of perturbations, with a variety of methods, and in a variety of models. TEWL rates with two closed-chamber systems (VapoMeter and H4300) and one closed-loop system (MEECO) under different experimental in vivo conditions were compared with data from four open-loop instruments, i.e. TM 210, TM 300, DermaLab and EP 1. The instruments were compared in vivo both in humans and hairless mice skin subjected to different degrees of acute barrier disruption. The values obtained with bioengineering systems were correlated with absolute water loss rates, determined gravimetrically. Measurements with both closed and open systems correlated not only with each other, but each method detected different degrees of barrier dysfunction. Although all instruments differentiated among gradations in TEWL in the mid-range of barrier disruption in vivo, differences in very low and very high levels of disruption were less accurately measured with the H4300 and DermaLab systems. Nevertheless, a high Pearson correlation coefficient (r) was calculated for data from all instruments vs. gravimetrically assessed TEWL. Together, these results verify the utility of TEWL as a measure of permeability barrier status. Moreover, all tested instruments are reliable tools for the assessment of variations in permeability barrier function.

In a murine model of epidermal hyperplasia reproducing some of the abnormalities of several common skin disorders, we previously demonstrated the antiproliferative and pro-differentiating effects of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR)alpha, PPARbeta/delta, and liver X receptor activators. Unlike other subgroups of PPAR activators, thiazolidinediones (TZDs), a family of PPARgamma ligands, did not inhibit keratinocyte proliferation in normal murine skin. Here, we studied the effects of two TZDs, namely ciglitazone (10 mM) and troglitazone (1 mM), in the same murine model where epidermal hyperproliferation was reproduced by repeated barrier abrogation with tape stripping. Topical treatment with ciglitazone and troglitazone resulted in a marked and significant decrease in epidermal thickness. Furthermore, in all TZD-treated groups, we observed a significant decrease in keratinocyte proliferation using proliferating cell nuclear antigen, 5-bromo-2'-deoxyuridine, and tritiated thymidine incorporation. However, using the terminal deoxynucleotidyl transferase-mediated dUTP nick end-labeling assay, we found no difference in apoptosis between different treatments, emphasizing that it is the antiproliferative role of these activators that accounts for the decrease of epidermal thickness. Finally, using immunohistochemical methods, we determined the effects of ciglitazone on keratinocyte differentiation in this hyperproliferative model. We observed an increased expression of involucrin and filaggrin following ciglitazone treatment, suggesting a pro-differentiating action of TZDs in this model. In summary, topical TZDs significantly reduce epidermal keratinocyte proliferation while promoting differentiation in a murine model of hyperproliferative epidermis. Together, these results suggest that in addition to their metabolic effects currently in use in the treatment of type 2 diabetes, topical TZDs could be considered as potential alternative therapeutic agents in hyperproliferative skin diseases such as psoriasis.

Acute disruption of the cutaneous permeability barrier with either solvents or tape-stripping stimulates a homeostatic metabolic response in the subjacent nucleated layers of the epidermis that results in a rapid restoration of normal permeability barrier function. When the aged epidermal permeability barrier is stressed, it reveals a diminished capacity for recovery, in comparison to young epidermis, analogous to other organs in the aged when stressed. Although the signals that regulate this homeostatic response by the epidermis have not yet been resolved, acute permeability barrier disruption stimulates release of prestored IL-1alpha, and increased production of potentially regulatory cytokines, including IL-1alpha and TNFalpha in the epidermis. In these studies, we addressed the hypothesis that cytokine dysregulation explains the permeability barrier abnormality in aged epidermis, assessing the regulation of IL-1 and TNF signaling in aged vs young mice. To determine whether the IL-1 family of cytokines plays a key role in the permeability barrier abnormality of the aged, permeability barrier recovery rates were compared in transgenic mice lacking the functional IL-1 type 1 receptor vs wild-type mice at various ages. Knockout of the IL-1 type 1 receptor exacerbates the defect in permeability barrier homeostasis that is seen in age-matched, wild-type counterparts. Furthermore, the sluggish permeability barrier recovery in aged epidermis is associated with, and at least in part attributable to, altered expression of the IL-1 family of cytokines and receptors both under basal conditions and after acute barrier perturbations. Whereas modulations in cytokine expression with epidermal permeability barrier perturbation are qualitatively similar in aged epidermis, they greatly differ quantitatively. In contrast, examination of TNFalpha mRNA and protein basally, and following barrier perturbation revealed no alterations in aged epidermis. Together, these results show that selective alterations in the IL-1 family of cytokines occur with aging and that defects in IL-1 signaling may contribute to the epidermal permeability barrier abnormality of aged skin.

The basis for the permeability barrier abnormality in lamellar ichthyosis (LI) is not known. LI is caused by mutations in the gene that encodes the enzyme, transglutaminase 1 (TGI), which is responsible for assembly of the cornified envelope (CE). TG1 also has been suggested recently to catalyze the covalent attachment of omega-hydroxyceramides (omega-OHCer) to the CE, forming the corneocyte-lipid envelope (CLE). We first assessed the barrier function and the permeability pathway of the water-soluble tracer, colloidal lanthanum, across the stratum corneum (SC) in patients with LI with absent (n = 4) or low (n = 2) TG1 activity/protein. Increased movement of tracer through the SC correlated with increased transcutaneous water loss, and tracer remained restricted to the SC interstices. Enhanced extracellular permeability, in turn, was explicable by truncation and fragmentation of extracellular lamellar membrane arrays. The resultant clefts in the SC interstices represent the likely pathway for increased water permeability. Moreover, tracer movement remained restricted to the interstices, despite the demonstration of increased corneocyte fragility associated with widespread variations in CE structure. Regardless of variability in CE structure, however, CLE structure and bound omega-OHCer content were normal. The normal CLE in LI may explain both the restriction of tracer to the SC interstices, as well as the presence of foreshortened membrane arrays with near-normal interlamellar dimensions. Finally, the demonstration of a normal CLE in LI also raises questions about the putative role of TG1 in forming the CLE. These results demonstrate: (1) the extracellular nature of increased permeability in LI; (2) discontinuities in extracellular membrane structures that account for the enhanced permeability in LI; (3) that these membrane abnormalities are both associated with and explained by abnormalities in the subjacent CE scaffold; and (4) an intact CLE is present in LI, despite abnormalities in the CE, which may restrict water movement to the SC interstices in LI.

Conventional textbook wisdom portrays the skin as an organ that literally enwraps whatever each of us stands for as a more or less functional, individual member of the mammalian species, and has it that the skin primarily establishes, controls and transmits contacts with the external world. In addition, the skin has long been recognized to protect the organism from deleterious environmental impacts (physical, chemical,microbiological), and is well-known as crucial for the maintenance of temperature, electrolyte and fluid balance. Now, ever more studies are being published that show the skin to also operate as a huge and highly active biofactory for the synthesis,processing and/or metabolism of an astounding range of e.g. structural proteins, glycans, lipids and signaling molecules. Increasingly, it becomes appreciated that the skin, furthermore, is an integral component of the immune, nervous and endocrine systems, with numerous lines of cross-talk between these systems established intracutaneously (e.g. Ann NY Acad Sci Vol 885, 1999; Endocrine Rev 21:457-487, 2000; Physiol Rev 80:980-1020, 2001; Exp Dermatol 10: 349-367, 2001). All these emerging cutaneous functions beyond the classical image of the skin as a barrier and sensory organ are immediately relevant for many of the quandaries that clinical dermatology, dermatopathology, and dermatopharmacology are still struggling with to-date, and offer the practising dermatologist attractive new targets for therapeutic intervention. Yet, many of these skin functions are not even mentioned in dermatology textbooks and await systematic therapeutic targeting. Following a suggestion by Enno Christophers, the current 'Controversies' feature brings together an unusually diverse council of biologists and clinicians, who share their thought-provoking views with the readers and allow us to peek into the future of research in cutaneous biology, not the least by reminding us of the -- often ignored -- evolutionary and embryonal origins of our favorite organ. Hopefully, this unique discussion feature will foster an understanding of the 'true' skin functions that is both more comprehensive and more profound than conventional teaching on this topic, and will stimulate more than 'skin-deep' reflections on the full range of skin functions.

Disruption of the permeability barrier elicits a homeostatic repair response which rapidly restores barrier function while repeated barrier perturbation results in cutaneous pathology. In response to barrier disruption there is a marked increase in epidermal TNF-alpha and IL-1 production. To determine the potential role of TNF and IL-1 in mediating the cutaneous changes that occur following barrier disruption we compared the kinetics of barrier recovery and the degree of epidermal hyperplasia and cutaneous inflammation in TNF type I (p55) receptor and IL-1 receptor type I (p80) deficient mice. No abnormalities in epidermal morphology were observed with light or electron microscopy in receptor deficient mice. Under baseline conditions epidermal barrier function was unchanged in receptor deficient mice. Following barrier disruption the kinetics of barrier recovery were similar in control vs TNF receptor deficient mice regardless if the barrier was disrupted by acetone treatment, SDS treatment, or tape stripping. In contrast, barrier recovery was slightly but significantly accelerated regardless of the method of barrier disruption in IL-1 receptor deficient mice. The degree of epidermal hyperplasia and cutaneous inflammation following repeated barrier disruption was similar in control, TNF receptor, and IL-1 receptor deficient mice. The present study demonstrates that barrier recovery is not delayed and the degree of epidermal hyperplasia and inflammation are not altered in either TNF receptor or IL-1 receptor deficient mice, indicating that neither TNF nor IL-1 alone are essential for either barrier repair or the cutaneous pathology induced by barrier perturbation. Whereas the increase in IL-1 following barrier disruption may delay components of the repair response, whether either TNF-alpha or IL-1 regulate aspects of the homeostatic response remains unresolved.

The signalling mechanisms that regulate epidermal permeability barrier homeostasis are not known. Previous Northern blot analysis showed that both acute and chronic barrier disruption increase mRNA levels of several cytokines in murine epidermis. To further characterize the epidermal response to barrier abrogation, we used more sensitive, multi-probe RNase protection assays to measure the mRNA levels of additional cytokines, as well as cytokine receptors in acute and chronic models of barrier disruption. Normal mouse epidermis expressed interleukin (IL)-1 alpha, interferon-gamma (IFN-gamma), tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-alpha) and IL-6 mRNAs. Following tape-stripping, only the mRNA levels for TNF-alpha, IL-1 alpha, IL-1 beta and IL-6 increased at 2.5 and 7 h, and returned toward normal levels by 18 h. No mRNAs encoding TNF-beta, IL-2, IL-3, IL-4 or IL-5, were detected in the epidermis either under basal conditions or after tape-stripping. Similarly, in a chronic model, essential fatty acid deficiency, epidermal levels of TNF-alpha, IL-1 alpha, IL-1 beta and IL-6 mRNAs, but not IFN-gamma mRNA, were elevated over controls; and again, mRNAs for the remaining probed cytokines were not detected. In contrast, in the dermis, only IL-1 beta mRNA levels increased 2.5 h after tape-stripping, and remained elevated at 18 h. mRNAs encoding the IL-1 (p60), IFN-gamma and IL-6 receptors were present in epidermis, but their levels remained unchanged following either acute or chronic barrier disruption. In contrast, epidermal TNF (p55) receptor mRNA levels were increased by 87% (P < 0.01) at 2.5 h, returned to control levels at 7 h and were increased by 68% (P < 0.03) at 18 h after tape-stripping. The increase at 2 h was confirmed by Northern blot analysis and was not prevented by latex occlusion performed immediately after tape-stripping mRNAs for the IL-1 (p80) receptor and TNF (p75) receptor were not detected in epidermis. Low levels of TNF (p55) receptor mRNA were present in the dermis, and they remained unchanged after tape-stripping. The presence of specific receptor mRNAs in the epidermis and dermis suggests that these tissues are capable of responding in an autocrine and/or paracrine fashion to the cognate cytokines. These results suggest that epidermal cytokines produced after barrier disruption may initiate a cytokine cascade which could regulate cytokine and cytokine receptor production and/or inflammatory responses.

Disruption of the cutaneous permeability barrier induces metabolic responses in the epidermis which result in barrier recovery. Barrier disruption by either solvent treatment or tape stripping results in the loss of the epidermal calcium gradient. Previous studies in acetone treated hairless mice have shown that maintaining this calcium gradient inhibits barrier repair, suggesting that alterations in the epidermal calcium concentration may be an important signal for barrier homeostasis. In the present study, we show that in hairless mice disruption of the barrier by treatment with the detergent, SDS, also results in the loss of the calcium gradient, as demonstrated both semi-quantitatively with ultrastructural cytochemical localization and quantitatively using proton induced X-ray emission (PIXE). Additionally, immersion in calcium containing solutions delays barrier repair after either detergent (SDS treatment) or mechanical (tape stripping) disruption of the barrier, as reported previously for acetone treated skin. These results indicate that barrier disruption, regardless of the insult, induces changes in the epidermal calcium gradient which may play an important role in signaling the metabolic changes required for barrier homeostasis.

Disruption of the cutaneous permeability barrier increases mRNA levels for TNF, GM-CSF, IL-1 alpha, and IL-1 beta in the epidermis. We have hypothesized that the cytokines mediate the changes in lipid and DNA synthesis which occur following barrier disruption. To further characterize the cytokine response to barrier abrogation, we examined the levels of epidermal IL-1ra mRNA in two acute models and one chronic model in the hairless mouse. IL-1ra mRNA levels increased shortly after acute disruption of the barrier with acetone, reached a peak at 3-4 h after treatment, and returned to control levels by 8h. These changes in mRNA levels parallel those which occur for IL-1 alpha and beta. Furthermore, IL-1ra mRNA levels were elevated 5-fold and 4-fold, at 2.5 h and 4 h, respectively, following tape-stripping, a second acute model of barrier disruption. Finally, IL-1ra mRNA levels were elevated 2.5-fold in the epidermis of EFAD mice, which have a chronic barrier defect. Thus, the cutaneous response to barrier disruption includes mechanisms which increase IL-1 and IL-1ra mRNA levels in a coordinate manner. The net result provides a regulatory mechanism for controlling the biological effects of increased IL-1 production.