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The term cosmetopoeia refers to the use of plants in folks’ cosmetics. The aerial parts of Bidens pilosa L., the leaves of Calophyllum inophyllum L. and the fruits of Fagraea berteroana A.Gray ex Benth are traditionally used in French Polynesia for hair and skin care. During the hair cycle, dermal papilla cells and their interaction with epithelial cells are essential to promote hair follicle elongation. The aim of our investigations was the identification of metabolites from these three plants and chemical families responsible for their hair growth activity. A bioactivity-based molecular network was produced by mapping the correlation between features obtained from LC-MS/MS data and dermal papilla cell proliferation, using the Pearson correlation coefficient. The analyses pointed out glycosylated flavonols and phenolic acids from B. pilosa and C. inophyllum, along with C-flavonoids, iridoids and secoiridoids from F. berteroana, as potential bioactive molecules involved in the proliferation of hair follicle dermal papilla cells. Our results highlight the metabolites of the plant species potentially involved in the induction of hair follicle growth and support the traditional uses of these plants in hair care

Fagraea berteroana is a tree used in traditional medicine in various islands of the South Pacific. Here, we studied its hair growth-inducing properties as suggested by one of its Marquesan ethno-uses in haircare. The ethyl acetate extract of the fruits of F. berteroana (FEAE) and four resulting fractions (FEAE-F0, FEAE-F1, FEAE-F2, and FEAE-F3) were tested on hair follicle dermal papilla cells to determine their cell proliferative activity. Furthermore, RT-qPCR analysis enabled gene modulation analysis, while immunostaining of the β-catenin protein was used to follow protein regulation. We found that the plant extracts induced a controlled, dose-dependent cell proliferation. FEAE-F0 simultaneously down-regulated Bone Morphogenetic Protein 2 (BMP2) mRNA expression and upregulated Cyclin-D1 (CCND1) gene expression, which suggests an involvement in the regulation of the Wnt and Transforming Growth Factor beta (TGFβ) pathways that control the hair cycle. FEAE-F0 exhibited a 1.34-fold increase of nuclear β-catenin protein. This is indicative of an active hair growth state. Thus, we conclude that FEAE-F0 could be an innovative candidate in hair care, which opens interesting leads to promote the Marquesan cosmetopoeia.

Tamanu oil from Calophyllum inophyllum L. has long been used in traditional medicine. Ethanol extraction was found the best strategy for recovering bioactive compounds from the resin part of Tamanu oil, yielding two neutral and acidic resins fractions with high phenolics, flavonoids and pyranocoumarins concentrations. A further cascade of LPLC/HPLC separations of neutral and acidic resin fractions allowed identifying fifteen metabolites, and among them, calanolide D and 12-oxocalanolide A (both in neutral fraction) were first identified from a natural source. All these extracts, subfractions and isolated metabolites demonstrated increased free radical scavenging, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and antimycobacterial activity compared to Tamanu oil and its de-resinated lipid phase. Overall, these results could promote resinous ethanol-soluble Tamanu oil extracts as a useful multifaceted and renewable medicinal resource

Hair loss is becoming increasingly prevalent as dietary and living habits change. The search for natural products to limit hair loss has led to tapping into traditional cosmetic knowledge. We studied three plants of the Polynesian cosmetopoeia, Bidens pilosa, Calophyllum inophyllum and Fagraea berteroana, to determine their ability to promote hair growth. Their chemical content was characterized by liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (LC-MS). Their proliferative activity on dermal papilla cells (DPCs) was assessed via MTT assay and molecular targets were evaluated by RT-qPCR analysis of seven factors involved in the modulation of the hair cycle, CCND1, LEF1, DKK1, WNT5A PPARD, TGFΒ1, PPARD and RSPO2. Our results show that our extracts significantly increased proliferation of dermal papilla cells. Furthermore, LC-MS/MS analysis revealed a diversity of molecules, flavonoids, iridoids and organic acids, some known for hair-inducing properties. Finally, specific extracts and fractions of all three plants either upregulated CCND1, LEF1 and PPARD involved in stimulating hair follicle proliferation and/or lowered the gene expression levels of hair growth inhibiting factors, DKK1 and TGFB1. Our findings suggest that extracts from B. pilosa, C. inophyllum and F. berteroana are interesting candidates to stimulate hair growth