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Amazonian fruit residues like piquia shells are often discarded despite their antioxidant potential for sustainable cosmetic use. This study evaluated the photostability, phototoxicity, and photoprotection of hydroalcoholic piquia shell extract (PqSE) combined with UV filters in solutions and cosmetic formulations. PqSE formulations were photostable, even stabilizing photounstable UV filters. Phototoxicity tests (OECD TG 432) showed no phototoxic potential (MPE < 0.15) and reduction in the phototoxic potential of UV filters, while ocular irritation potential via HET-CAM assay indicated no irritant effects. The extract combined with UV filters enhanced protection against UVA-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, achieving 60.9% effectiveness, outperforming commercial photostabilizers. Against UVB radiation, it showed cellular viability above 80%, comparable to benzophenone-3. PqSE formulations exhibited a radical protection factor (RPF) nine times higher than controls and reduced radical production by 64% after visible/near-infrared (VIS/NIR) irradiation on porcine skin, compared to 38% for controls. Confocal Raman microspectroscopy showed penetration depths below 12 µm for all time points. This study highlights the potential of reusing fruit residues like PqSE as sustainable, effective ingredients in sunscreen formulations, offering enhanced photoprotection and reduced environmental waste.

Air pollution is increasing worldwide and skin is exposed to high levels of pollution daily, causing oxidative stress and other negative consequences. The methods used to determine oxidative stress in the skin are invasive and non-invasive label-free in vivo methods, which are severely limited. Here, a non-invasive and label-free method to determine the effect of cigarette smoke (CS) exposure on skin ex vivo (porcine) and in vivo (human) was established. The method is based on the measurement of significant CS-exposure-induced enhancement in red- and near-infrared (NIR)-excited autofluorescence (AF) intensities in the skin. To understand the origin of red- and NIR-excited skin AF, the skin was exposed to several doses of CS in a smoking chamber. UVA irradiation was used as a positive control of oxidative stress in the skin. The skin was measured with confocal Raman microspectroscopy before CS exposure, immediately after CS exposure, and after skin cleaning. CS exposure significantly increased the intensity of red- and NIR-excited skin AF in a dose-dependent manner in the epidermis, as confirmed by laser scanning microscopy AF imaging and fluorescence spectroscopy measurements. UVA irradiation enhanced the intensity of AF, but to a lower extent than CS exposure. We concluded that the increase in red- and NIR-excited AF intensities of the skin after CS exposure could clearly be related to the induction of oxidative stress in skin, where skin surface lipids are mainly oxidized.

The antioxidant system of the human body plays a crucial role in maintaining redox homeostasis and has an important protective function. Carotenoids have pronounced antioxidant properties in the neutralization of free radicals. In human skin, carotenoids have a high concentration in the stratum corneum (SC)-the horny outermost layer of the epidermis, where they accumulate within lipid lamellae. Resonance Raman spectroscopy and diffuse reflectance spectroscopy are optical methods that are used to non-invasively determine the carotenoid concentration in the human SC in vivo. It was shown by electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy that carotenoids support the entire antioxidant status of the human SC in vivo by neutralizing free radicals and thus, counteracting the development of oxidative stress. This review is devoted to assembling the kinetics of the carotenoids in the human SC in vivo using non-invasive optical and spectroscopic methods. Factors contributing to the changes of the carotenoid concentration in the human SC and their influence on the antioxidant status of the SC in vivo are summarized. The effect of chemotherapy on the carotenoid concentration of the SC in cancer patients is presented. A potential antioxidant-based pathomechanism of chemotherapy-induced hand-foot syndrome and a method to reduce its frequency and severity are discussed., Competing Interests: The authors declare no conflict of interest.

The daily consumption of tobacco products leads to a boost in free radical production in tissues, promoting the risk for malignancies, metabolic alterations and chronic-inflammatory diseases. This study aimed to broaden the knowledge of the status of the antioxidative (AO) system in the skin, compared to the blood, of healthy appearing smokers. Both, the basic status compared to non-smokers and the short-term impact of controlled cigarette consumption in smokers were analyzed. Our study showed that the basic level of the AO system of smokers significantly differed from that of non-smokers. As determined by resonant Raman spectroscopy (RRS), the levels of exogenous AOs were decreased in both, the skin, in vivo (β-carotene and lycopene), and blood plasma (β-carotene only). In contrast, the levels of glutathione (GSH), the prototypical endogenous AO, which were analyzed by fluorimetric assays in cutaneous tape strips and blood plasma, were increased in the skin, although unchanged in the blood of smokers. Elevated cutaneous GSH levels were reflected by an elevated overall radical scavenging activity in the skin, as quantified by non-invasive electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy. Analysis of the expression of selected stress-associated genes in blood immune cells by quantitative RT-PCR in subgroups of non-smokers and smokers additionally demonstrated the downregulation of AKR1C2 in smokers, and its negative correlation with blood plasma levels of the protective immune mediator interleukin-22, assessed by the ELISA technique. Controlled cigarette consumption did not alter exogenous or endogenous AOs in the skin of smokers, but decreased lycopene levels in blood plasma. Moreover, there was a decline in blood IL-22 levels, while no relevant response of blood cell gene expressions was found after the considered short time. Our data therefore demonstrate a strengthened endogenous AO status in the skin of smokers, which may indicate a long-term adaptation to chronic oxidative stress in this specific organ. While this effect was not clearly visible in the blood, this compartment seems to be useful as an immediate indicator of the body's AO consumption. Moreover, decreased levels of AKR1C2, which we show for the first time to be expressed in immune cells, may be a candidate marker for long-term smoking. In addition, this study demonstrates that the rate constant of a spin probe decline determined by EPR spectroscopy mainly represents the endogenous AO status of a tissue., Competing Interests: The authors declare no conflict of interest.