1. Phenylalanine Butyramide Is a New Cosmetic Ingredient with Soothing and Anti-Reddening Potential
- Author
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Anna Fiorenza de Giovanni di Santa Severina, Lorella Paparo, Antonia Sacchi, Cristina Bruno, Antonietta Bernardi, Lucia Grumetto, Sonia Laneri, Serena Coppola, Irene Dini, Carmen Avagliano, Ritamaria Di Lorenzo, di Lorenzo, Ritamaria, Bernardi, Antonietta, Grumetto, Lucia, Sacchi, Antonia, Avagliano, Carmen, Coppola, Serena, de Giovanni di Santa Severina, Anna Fiorenza, Bruno, Cristina, Paparo, Lorella, Laneri, Sonia, and Dini, Irene
- Subjects
Erythema ,skin microbiota ,Phenylalanine ,Pharmaceutical Science ,Organic chemistry ,skin permeation ,Human skin ,Cosmetics ,Butyrate ,Protective Agents ,Article ,Analytical Chemistry ,Butyric acid ,chemistry.chemical_compound ,QD241-441 ,soothing and anti-reddening effect ,In vivo ,Drug Discovery ,medicine ,Humans ,erythema index ,Food science ,Physical and Theoretical Chemistry ,Skin ,Molecular Structure ,Butyramide ,integumentary system ,Chemistry ,butyrate ,Amides ,Cosmetic ingredient ,Chemistry (miscellaneous) ,Molecular Medicine ,medicine.symptom - Abstract
Human skin is colonized by diverse commensal microbes, making up the skin microbiota (SM), contributing to skin integrity and homeostasis. Many of the beneficial effects aroused by the SM are exerted by microbial metabolites such as short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs), including butyric acid. The SCFAs can be used in cosmetic formulations against skin diseases to protect SM by preserving and/or restoring their natural balance. Unpleasant sensorial properties and unfavorable physico-chemical properties of butyrate strongly limit its cosmetic use. In contrast, some butyrate derivatives, including phenylalanine butyramide (C13H18N2O2, FBA), a solid form of butyric acid, are odorless while retaining the pharmacokinetic properties and safety profile of butyric acid. This study assessed the FBA’s permeation across the skin and its soothing and anti-reddening potential to estimate its cosmetic application. The dosage method used to estimate FBA’s levels was validated to be sure of analytical results. The FBA diffusion tests were estimated in vitro using a Franz-type vertical diffusion cell. The soothing action was evaluated in vivo by Colorimeter CL400, measuring the erythema index. The results suggest that the FBA represents an innovative way to exploit the benefits of butyric acid in the cosmetic fields since it cannot reach the bloodstream, is odorless, and has a significative soothing action (decrease the erythema index −15.7% after 30′, and −17.8% after 60′).
- Published
- 2021