Search

The accuracy and robustness of the shoreline definition from satellite imagery on different coastal types are crucial to adequately characterising beach morphology and dynamics. However, the generic and widespread application of satellite-derived shoreline algorithms is limited by the lack of robust methods and parameter assessments. This work constitutes a quantitative and comprehensive assessment of the satellite-derived waterlines from Sentinel-2 by using the novel SAET tool (Shoreline Analysis and Extraction Tool) on the exposed and mesotidal beach of La Victoria (Cádiz, SW Spain). The diverse parameters available in SAET, such as water indexes, thresholding methods, morphological filters, and kernel sizes, were combined to define water/land interface positions that were compared against coincident video-derived waterlines. Satellite-derived waterline errors are found to be affected by extraction parameters, as well as by the oceanographic and morphological conditions at the time of the image acquisition. The application of a morphological erosion filter on the water mask, which tends to shift the extracted waterline seawards and reduce bias, is the best solution at the dissipative site of La Victoria Beach. Moreover, using a 3 × 3 kernel size consistently shows higher accuracies than a larger kernel. Although there was no parameter combination showing the best skill for all dates, the employment of the Automated Water Extraction Index for images with no shadows (AWEInsh) with a threshold = 0, erosion morphological filter, and 3 × 3 kernel was, overall, the best combination of extraction parameters for this beach (average waterline RMSE of 5.96 m). The combination of the Modified Normalised Difference Water Index (MDNWI) with the Otsu thresholding also led to similar positions of the resulting waterlines and offered good accuracies. In line with other recent research efforts, our work stresses the lack of generic shoreline extraction solutions that can be applied automatically at a global level and the necessity to adapt and validate the extraction methodologies to the different types of coastlines. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Beach slope is a critical parameter to, e.g., beach safety, wave reflection at the coast and longshore transport rate. However, it is usually considered as a time-invariant and profile-average parameter. Here, we apply a state-of-the-art equilibrium model to hindcast beach slope variability from the time scales of days to years at the high-energy meso-macrotidal sandy beach of Truc Vert, southwest France. We use 9 years of bimonthly beach surveys to compute beach slope time series at different elevations. Results show that beach slope exhibits an equilibrium response with contrasting behaviors along two distinct areas of the beach profile. From 0 to 2 m above mean sea level, which is located under the berm crest, a slope response predominantly at the storm time scale is observed. The beach slope steepens under low energy waves, with the equilibrium model explaining up to 40% of the observed beach slope variability. In contrast, from 2.5 to 4 m above mean sea level, which is above the berm crest, the beach slope steepens under high-energy waves. Within this region of the beach profile, the response time scale increases upwards from seasonal (~2.5 m) to seasonal (~4 m), with the model explaining up to 65% of the observed beach slope variability. Such behaviors are found to be enforced by the berm dynamics developing from the end of the winter to early autumn, providing new perspectives to model and predict beach slope on sandy beaches. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Observations from wave basin experiments and wave-resolving numerical simulations demonstrate the effect of wave-current interaction on shear stress around a sandy mound. Observations from the wave basin show that the mound deformation rate and morphological patterns depend on the mixture of waves and currents in the incident flow conditions. A SWASH nonhydrostatic numerical model was used to expand the parameter space of wave-current conditions observed in the flume and characterize the response of the near-bed shear stress to the mound. The model was validated with observations from wave-alone, current-alone, and wave-current flume tests and then ran for a suite of numerical flow conditions which isolate the impact of the ratio of wave-current energy on the bed shear stress. Results show how the current-to-wave ratio impacts the spatial heterogeneity of shear stress across the mound, with the region of shear stress intensification around the mound and the location of the peak shear stress becoming asymmetric with more mixed wave-current flows. These results show the nonlinear response of shear stress patterns to combined wave-current flows and how these patterns may impact eventual sediment transport and mound evolution. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Although geologically constrained sandy beaches are ubiquitous along wave-exposed coasts, there is still a limited understanding of their morphological response, particularly under storm conditions, which is mainly due to a critical lack of nearshore bathymetry observations. This paper examines the potential to derive bathymetries from video imagery under challenging wave conditions in order to investigate headland control on morphological beach response. For this purpose, a video-based linear depth inversion algorithm is applied to three consecutive weeks of frames collected during daylight hours from a single fixed camera located at La Petite Chambre d'Amour beach (Anglet, SW France). Video-derived bathymetries are compared against in situ topo-bathymetric surveys carried out at the beginning and end of the field experiment in order to assess the performance of the bathymetric estimates. The results show that the rates of accretion/erosion within the surf zone are strongly influenced by the headland, whereas the beach morphological response can be classified into three main regimes depending on the angle of wave incidence θ p : (1) under deflection configuration ( θ p > 0 ° ), the alongshore sediment transport was trapped at the updrift side of the headland, promoting sand accretion. (2) Under shadowed configuration ( θ p < 0 ° ), the interruption of the longshore current drove a deficit of sand supply at the downdrift side of the headland, leading to an overall erosion in the surf zone. (3) Under shore-normal configuration ( θ p = 0 ° ), rip channels developed, and up-state beach transition was observed. A comparison between video-derived bathymetries and surveys shows an overall root mean square error (RMSE) around 0.49 to 0.57 m with a bias ranging between −0.36 and −0.29 m. The results show that video-derived bathymetries can provide new insight into the morphological change driven by storm events. The combination of such inferred bathymetry with video-derived surface current data is discussed, showing great potential to address the coupled morphodynamics system under time-varying wave conditions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The influence of large-scale climate variability on winter river discharge and precipitation across western Europe is investigated. We analyze 60 years of monthly precipitation and river flow data from 18 major western-European rivers and its relationship with dominant teleconnection patterns and climate indices in this region. Results show that winter river flow is characterized by large interannual variability, best correlates with (a) the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) at the far-northern (R up to 0.56) and southern latitudes (R up to −0.72), and (b) the West Europe Pressure Anomaly (WEPA) at the middle and northern latitudes, from 42° N to 55° N (R up to 0.83). These indices also explain the interannual variability in autumn and spring discharge in rivers characterized by secondary floods. Compared to the other leading modes of atmospheric variability, WEPA increases the correlations with winter precipitation up to 0.8 in many regions of western and central Europe. A positive WEPA corresponds to a southward shift and an intensification of the Icelandic-Low/Azores-High dipole, driving enhanced precipitation and river discharge in these regions. The correlations with precipitation are slightly higher than those with river discharge, particularly in France, with clear latitudinal gradient. This trend suggests that water storage variability and other catchment characteristics may also influence the interannual variability of river discharge. Seasonal forecasting of the WEPA and NAO winter indices can become a powerful tool in anticipating hydrological risks in this region. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A XBeach surfbeat model is used to explore the dynamics of natural headland rip circulation under a broad range of incident wave conditions and tide level. The model was calibrated and extensively validated against measurements collected in the vicinity of a 500-m rocky headland. Modelled bulk hydrodynamic quantities were in good agreement with measurements for two wave events during which deflection rips were captured. In particular, the model was able to reproduce the tidal modulation and very-low-frequency fluctuations (≈1 h period) of the deflection rip during the 4-m wave event. For that event, the synoptic flow behaviour shows the large spatial coverage of the rip which extended 1600 m offshore at low tide, when the surf zone limit extends beyond the headland tip. These results emphasize a deflection mechanism different from conceptualised deflection mechanisms based on the boundary length to surf zone width ratio. Further simulations indicate that the adjacent embayment is responsible for the seaward extent of the rip under energetic wave conditions. The present study shows that the circulation patterns along natural rugged coastlines are strongly controlled by the natural variability of the coastal morphology, including headland shape and adjacent embayments, which has implications on headland bypassing expressions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Long-term (>decades) coastal recession due to sea-level rise (SLR) has been estimated using the Bruun Rule for nearly six decades. Equilibrium-based shoreline models have been shown to skillfully predict short-term wave-driven shoreline change on time scales of hours to decades. Both the Bruun Rule and equilibrium shoreline models rely on the equilibrium beach theory, which states that the beach profile shape equilibrates with its local wave and sea-level conditions. Integrating these two models into a unified framework can improve our understanding and predictive skill of future shoreline behavior. However, given that both models account for wave action, but over different time scales, a critical re-examination of the SLR-driven recession process is needed. We present a novel physical interpretation of the beach response to sea-level rise, identifying two main contributing processes: passive flooding and increased wave-driven erosion efficiency. Using this new concept, we analyze the integration of SLR-driven recession into equilibrium shoreline models and, with an idealized test case, show that the physical mechanisms underpinning the Bruun Rule are explicitly described within our integrated model. Finally, we discuss the possible advantages of integrating SLR-driven recession models within equilibrium-based models with dynamic feedbacks and the broader implications for coupling with hybrid shoreline models. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper examines the potential of an optical flow video-based technique to estimate wave-filtered surface currents in the nearshore where wave-breaking induced foam is present. This approach uses the drifting foam, left after the passage of breaking waves, as a quasi-passive tracer and tracks it to estimate the surface water flow. The optical signature associated with sea-swell waves is first removed from the image sequence to avoid capturing propagating waves instead of the desired foam motion. Waves are removed by applying a temporal Fourier low-pass filter to each pixel of the image. The low-pass filtered images are then fed into an optical flow algorithm to estimate the foam displacement and to produce mean velocity fields (i.e., wave-filtered surface currents). We use one week of consecutive 1-Hz sampled frames collected during daylight hours from a single fixed camera located at La Petite Chambre d'Amour beach (Anglet, SW France) under high-energy conditions with significant wave height ranging from 0.8 to 3.3 m. Optical flow-computed velocities are compared against time-averaged in situ measurements retrieved from one current profiler installed on a submerged reef. The computed circulation patterns are also compared against surf-zone drifter trajectories under different field conditions. Optical flow time-averaged velocities show a good agreement with current profiler measurements: coefficient of determination (r 2) = 0.5–0.8; root mean square error (RMSE) = 0.12–0.24 m/s; mean error (bias) = − 0.09 to − 0.17 m/s; regression slope = 1 ± 0.15 ; coherence 2 = 0.4–0.6. Despite an underestimation of offshore-directed velocities under persistent wave breaking across the reef, the optical flow was able to correctly reproduce the mean flow patterns depicted by drifter trajectories. Such patterns include rip-cell circulation, dominant onshore-directed surface flow and energetic longshore current. Our study suggests that open-source optical flow algorithms are a promising technique for coastal imaging applications, particularly under high-energy wave conditions when in situ instrument deployment can be challenging. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Mapping coastal dune vegetation is critical to understand dune mobility and resilience in the context of climate change, sea level rise, and increased anthropogenic pressure. However, the identification of plant species from remotely sensed data is tedious and limited to broad vegetation communities, while such environments are dominated by fragmented and small-scale landscape patterns. In June 2019, a comprehensive multi-scale survey including unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV), hyperspectral ground, and airborne data was conducted along approximately 20 km of a coastal dune system in southwest France. The objective was to generate an accurate mapping of the main sediment and plant species ground cover types in order to characterize the spatial distribution of coastal dune stability patterns. Field and UAV data were used to assess the quality of airborne data and generate a robust end-member spectral library. Next, a two-step classification approach, based on the normalized difference vegetation index and Random Forest classifier, was developed. Results show high performances with an overall accuracy of 100% and 92.5% for sand and vegetation ground cover types, respectively. Finally, a coastal dune stability index was computed across the entire study site. Different stability patterns were clearly identified along the coast, highlighting for the first time the high potential of this methodology to support coastal dune management. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Headland rips, sometimes referred to as boundary rips, are rip currents flowing against natural or artificial obstructions extending seaward from the beach, such as headland or groynes. They can be driven either by the deflection of the longshore current against the obstacle or by alongshore variation in breaking wave height due to wave shadowing in the lee of the obstacle. The driving mechanism therefore essentially depends on the angle of wave incidence with respect to the natural or artificial obstruction. We analyze 42 days of velocity profile measurements against a natural headland at the high-energy meso-macrotidal beach of Anglet, southwest France. Measurements were collected in 6.5–10.5-m depth as tide elevation varied, during the autumn–winter period with offshore significant wave height and period ranging 0.9–6 m and 8–16 s, respectively, and the angle of wave incidence ranging from −20 ∘ to 20 ∘ . Here we analyze deflection rip configurations, corresponding to approximately 24 days of measurements, for which the current meter was alternatively located in the rip neck, rip head or away from the rip as wave and tide conditions changed. Deflection rips were associated with large offshore-directed velocities (up to 0.6 m/s depth-averaged velocities) and tide modulation for low- to moderate-energy waves. The vertical profile of deflection rips was found to vary from depth-uniform in the rip neck to strongly depth-varying further offshore in the rip head with maximum velocities near the surface. Very low frequency motions of the rip were dramatic, ranging 10–60 min with a dominant peak period of approximately 40 min, i.e., with longer periods than commonly reported. The strong offshore-directed velocities measured well beyond the surf zone edge provide new insight into deflection rips as a dominant mechanism for water and sediment exchanges between embayed (or structurally-controlled) beaches and the inner-shelf and/or the adjacent embayments. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Fixed video camera systems are consistently prone to importune motions over time due to either thermal effects or mechanical factors. Even subtle displacements are mostly overlooked or ignored, although they can lead to large geo-rectification errors. This paper describes a simple and efficient method to stabilize an either continuous or sub-sampled image sequence based on feature matching and sub-pixel cross-correlation techniques. The method requires the presence and identification of different land-sub-image regions containing static recognizable features, such as corners or salient points, referred to as keypoints. A Canny edge detector ( C E D ) is used to locate and extract the boundaries of the features. Keypoints are matched against themselves after computing their two-dimensional displacement with respect to a reference frame. Pairs of keypoints are subsequently used as control points to fit a geometric transformation in order to align the whole frame with the reference image. The stabilization method is applied to five years of daily images collected from a three-camera permanent video system located at Anglet Beach in southwestern France. Azimuth, tilt, and roll deviations are computed for each camera. The three cameras showed motions on a wide range of time scales, with a prominent annual signal in azimuth and tilt deviation. Camera movement amplitude reached up to 10 pixels in azimuth, 30 pixels in tilt, and 0.4° in roll, together with a quasi-steady counter-clockwise trend over the five-year time series. Moreover, camera viewing angle deviations were found to induce large rectification errors of up to 400 m at a distance of 2.5 km from the camera. The mean shoreline apparent position was also affected by an approximately 10–20 m bias during the 2013/2014 outstanding winter period. The stabilization semi-automatic method successfully corrects camera geometry for fixed video monitoring systems and is able to process at least 90% of the frames without user assistance. The use of the C E D greatly improves the performance of the cross-correlation algorithm by making it more robust against contrast and brightness variations between frames. The method appears as a promising tool for other coastal imaging applications such as removal of undesired high-frequency movements of cameras equipped in unmanned aerial vehicles (UAVs). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper describes a large-scale experiment designed to examine if reinstating natural processes in the coastal dune systems of Southwest France can be a relevant nature-based adaptation in chronically eroding sectors and a nature-based solution against coastal hazards, by maintaining the coastal dune ecological corridor. An experiment started in late 2017 on a 4-km-long stretch of coast at Truc Vert, where experimental notches were excavated and intensively monitored in the incipient and established foredunes. Preliminary results indicate that most of the excavated notches did not develop into blowout. Only the larger elongated notches subsequently excavated in the established foredune in 2018 showed evidence of development, acting as an effective conduit for aeolian landward transport into the dunes. All notches were found to have a statistically significant impact on vegetation dynamics downwind, even those that did not develop. The area of bare sand landward and within the elongated notches notably increased implying a loss of vegetation cover during this first stage of development. Observations of a nearby coastal dune system that has been in free evolution over the last 40 years also indicate that, although the dune migrated inland by more than 100 m, it is now mostly made of bare sand. Further work is required to explore if and how dunes maintained as dynamic systems can become an efficient nature-based solution along this eroding coastline. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal defense strategies based on structures are increasingly unpopular as they are costly, leave lasting scars on the landscape, and sometimes have limited effectiveness or even adverse impacts. While a clear improvement concerning aesthetic considerations using soft submerged breakwater is undeniable, their design has often focused on wave transmission processes across the crest of the structure, overlooking short- to medium-term morphodynamic responses. In this study, we used a time- and depth-averaged morphodynamic model to investigate the impact of the implementation of a submerged breakwater on surf zone sandbar dynamics at the beach of Sète, SE France. The hydrodynamic module was calibrated with data collected during a field experiment using three current profilers deployed to capture rip-cell circulation at the edge of the structure. The model showed good agreement with measurements, particularly for the longshore component of the flow (RMSE = 0.07 m/s). Results showed that alongshore differential wave breaking at the edge of the submerged breakwater drove an intense (0.4 m/s) two-dimensional circulation for low- to moderate-energy waves. Simulations indicated that inner-bar rip channel development, which was observed prior to the submerged reef implementation, was inhibited in the lee of the structure as rip-cell circulation across the inner bar disappeared owing to persistently low-energy breaking waves. The cross-shore sandbar dynamics in the lee of the structure were also impacted due to the drastic decrease of the offshore-directed flow over the inner-bar during energetic events. This paper highlights that implementation of a submerged breakwater results in larges changes in nearshore hydrodynamics that, in turn, can affect overall surf zone sandbar behavior. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this paper, coastal dune data are collected at Truc Vert, SW France, using photogrammetry via Unmanned Aerial Vehicles (UAVs). A low-cost GoPro-equipped DJI Phantom 2 quadcopter and a 20 MPix camera-equipped DJI Phantom 4 Pro quadcopter UAVs were used to remotely sense the coastal dune morphology over large spatial scales (4 km alongshore, i.e., approximately 1 km2 of beach-dune system), within a short time (less than 2 h of flight). The primary objective of this paper is to propose a low-cost and replicable approach which, combined with simple and efficient permanent Ground Control Point (GCP) set-up, can be applied to routinely survey upper beach and coastal dune morphological changes at high frequency (after each storm) and high resolution (0.1 m). Results show that a high-resolution and accurate Digital Surface Model (DSM) can be inferred with both UAVs if enough permanent GCPs are implemented. The more recent DJI Phantom 4 gives substantially more accurate DSM with a root-mean-square vertical error and bias of 0.05 m and −0.03 m, respectively, while the DSM inferred from the DJI Phantom 2 still largely meets the standard for coastal monitoring. The automatic flight plan procedure allows replicable surveys to address large-scale morphological evolution at high temporal resolution (e.g., weeks, months), providing unprecedented insight into the coastal dune evolution driven by marine and aeolian processes. The detailed morphological evolution of a 4-km section of beach-dune system is analyzed over a 6-month winter period, showing highly alongshore variable beach and incipient foredune wave-driven erosion, together with wind-driven inland migration of the established foredune by a few meters, and alongshore-variable sand deposition on the grey dune. In a context of widespread erosion, this photogrammetry approach via low-cost flexible and lightweight UAVs is well adapted for coastal research groups and coastal dune management stakeholders, including in developing countries where data are lacking. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]