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Numerical models can be powerful tools for evaluating the best scenarios for the construction of artificial nourishments to mitigate coastal erosion. Until recent decades, when looking at medium- to long-term simulations, cross-shore and alongshore processes have been studied separately. Accounting for both processes in a shoreline evolution numerical model would improve the understanding and predictive capacity of future changes in coastline evolution. The AX-COAST project aims to develop new capacities in modeling cross-shore sediment transport processes by adding the CS-Model, a cross-shore numerical model, into the existing LTC (Long-Term Configuration) model. The LTC model is a shoreline evolution numerical model which is a module of the cost–benefit assessment tool COAST. This work presents the first steps of the CS-Model implementation, which involve evaluating its performance by calibrating the model with extensive measured datasets of wave climate, beach profiles, tide levels, etc., from coastal areas in IJmuiden and Sand Motor in the Netherlands. The results show good agreement between modeled and observed values. Additionally, wave climate datasets derived from global and regional wave models were considered to evaluate modeling performance at IJmuiden. Using derived timeseries from the wave models did not significantly lead to different results compared to using measured data. The obtained mean absolute and relative errors for each profile were low for both types of datasets. Calibration processes with consistent data are important in modeling simulations to accurately represent the study area and ensure the credibility of future simulations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study, a swash-zone model, using Larson and Wamsley formula (LW07), was combined into the Telemac-2D model system to examine the performance of modeling swash-zone processes through comparisons with field observation data. The experimental site was the Haeundae Beach in South Korea where Typhoon Phanfone occurred in October 2014, and bathymetric surveys were performed before and after the typhoon. Hydrodynamic data were also measured to validate the modeled data. The performance of LW07 was tested by running the model in two modes, with and without LW07. First, the model was run to simulate the shoreline response to an imaginary coastal breakwater. The result showed a clear discrepancy between the two modes as the sediments were considerably cumulated behind the breakwater in the case with the swash-zone formula (LW07) in the wide range along the shoreline behind the breakwater, indicating that the sediments more actively and rapidly responded to the shadowing by the breakwater with LW07. The model was also run for a realistic case from August to October 2014, which included the typhoon's period during 2–6 October. The results showed that the morphological changes at both ends of the beach in the swash zone were simulated with higher accuracy with LW07, supporting the effectiveness of LW07 in simulating the short-term morphological changes induced by the typhoon attack. In particular, the successful simulation of the sand accumulation at the end sides of the beach's swash zone indicates that LW07 was effective in estimating not only the cross-shore transport but also longshore transport, which was likely due to the characteristics of LW07 that calculated sand transport in both directions. The enhanced modeling performance with LW07 was likely due to the adjustment of the sediment transport rate to the instantaneous changes in the local beach slope, which could successfully control the erosion/accretion process in the swash zone more realistically. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study, laboratory experiments were conducted to investigate the influence of changes in storm wave height and water level on beach response in a medium-scale wave flume. A schematic storm was simulated (rising, apex, and waning phases). A non-intrusive photogrammetric method was used to collect high-resolution and synchronous data regarding the free surface water elevation and bed level, from which shoreline location, sandbar position, cross-shore sediment transport rates, and nonlinear wave parameters were derived. The cross-shore sediment transport was in agreement with previous laboratory measurements, including the monotonous exchange from foreshore erosion to shoaling zone accretion in most stages of the storm simulation. The surf zone was the main region supplying sediment for beach morphology modification and sandbar generation. The degree of storm erosion was not completely determined by the largest wave height and water level or the cumulative wave power of the apex phase. The largest gradients of the wave parameter sequence change occurred in the rising phase, and this was the main factor generating efficient beachface erosion. It induced an increase in sandbar size, accompanied by the cross-shore motion of maximum velocity amplitude, more violent disturbances of wave nonlinearity, and increased surf zone erosion, with these factors increasing beach instability and leading to more severe storm erosion. The large wave height and water level resulted in shoreline retreat, with a more significant swash zone erosion under a higher runup. The offshore sediment transport turned toward the onshore direction as the original large sandbar deteriorated under the decreasing wave parameter sequence in the waning phase. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Sandy beaches high in recreation value make up 16% of the over 4000 km long shoreline of Estonia. The shore processes associated with climate change have remarkably accelerated over recent decades. Many sandy shores have suffered from strong erosion, including an excellent former beach at Valgeranna. The jetties, which were built in the 1860s to protect the navigation channel of Port Pärnu from clogging, have prevented natural sediment transport along the coast from south to north. At the same time, the sandy beach in Pärnu is expanding, and part of the sand accumulates with strong storms also in between the jetties, reducing the width of the shipping channel. The channel needs regular dredging, but, so far, the dredged sediment has been taken far away to the open sea and accumulated on the seabed. The current paper addresses the possibilities of using that sand for beach restoration in destructed and eroded areas. An overview of the applied methods and measurements during field studies is given. The results of modelling the processes of wave activity and sediment transport are discussed. The recycling of shore sediments is an important measure in sustainable coastal zone management. Different options and scenarios are analysed in order to find the most reasonable ways to bring sand back onto beaches and stabilize natural processes. Support from the state by working out respective laws and regulations would be motivating as well. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The morphological responses of two mesotidal beaches located in different coastal settings (embayed and open sandy beaches) on the northwestern Iberian coast were monitored during the winter of 2018/19. The offshore wave time series analysis is related to high-resolution topo-bathymetric measurements to explore spatial-temporal morphological variability at monthly to seasonal scales. Both locations are subjected to the North Atlantic wave climate which exhibits a pronounced seasonality. Throughout the last decade (2010–2020), significant wave heights reached values of up to Hs~9 m during winters and up to Hs~6 m during summers. On average, approximately 12 storms occurred annually in this region. The results clearly reveal divergent morphological responses and sediment transport behaviors at the upper beach and the intertidal zone during the winter for each location. In the embayed beach (Patos), sediment transport in the nearshore is governed by cross-shore processes between the beach berm and a submerged sandbar. In contrast, the open beach (Mira) showed dynamic sediment exchanges and three-dimensional morphologies alternating between accumulation and erosion zones. Overall, both beaches exhibited an erosional trend after the winter, particularly concerning berm erosion and the subaerial beach volume/shoreline retreat. This study highlights the contrasting morphodynamic response on open and embayed beaches to winter conditions, integrating both the subaerial and submerged zones. Local geological and environmental factors, as well as the coastal management strategies applied, will influence how the beach responds to winter wave events. Monitoring and understanding these responses are essential for effective coastal management and adaptation to changing climate. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper presents new data from large-scale wave flume experiments. It shows the beach profile evolution and sediment transport for two different bed slopes (1:15 and 1:25), and three irregular high-energy erosive wave conditions and one low-energy accretive wave condition. The bulk cross-shore net sediment transport was investigated for the total active profile and for the surf and swash zone separately. It is shown that the steep slope is morphologically more active than the gentle slope, with faster and more pronounced morphological changes and larger sediment transport rates. For both slopes, the total and surf zone net sediment transport were offshore-directed for erosive waves and onshore-directed for the accretive wave condition. However, the net swash zone transport for the erosive wave conditions was offshore-directed for the steep slope and onshore-directed for the gentle slope. The direction and magnitude of the total and surf zone sediment transport correlate well with the slope-corrected Dean criterion with increasing offshore-directed sediment transport (erosion) observed for increasing wave energy and bed slope. This relation does not hold for the swash zone sediment transport along the gentle slope, suggesting that swash zone sediment transport processes are not well captured when using a simple predictor such as the (modified) Dean number. Differences in sediment transport in the swash for the different slopes are likely influenced by differences in incoming wave energy, wave–swash interactions and the relative importance of long- and short-waves. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

With the recent development from grey infrastructures to green infrastructures, artificial reefs become more popular in coastal protection projects. To investigate the responses of beach profile evolution to the presence of an artificial reef, a non-hydrostatic model is established. Both hydrodynamic and morphodynamic evolution for the beach with and without an artificial reef are compared under regular wave conditions. In addition, the protected beach profile evolution by an artificial reef is discussed under irregular wave conditions. Three key parameters in non-hydrostatic simulation are considered for sensitivity analysis, including maximum wave steepness criterium (maxbrsteep), water depth factor (depthscale), and equilibrium sediment concentration factor (sedcal). The numerical results under regular wave conditions indicate that the artificial reef enhances wave attenuation by inducing wave breaking. In addition, the artificial reef reduces local flow velocity and offshore sediment transport by 51%, therefore decrease the total erosion by 53%. Over the artificial reef, wave skewness and asymmetry go through a drastic change. Under irregular wave conditions, short waves contribute to the wave energy mainly and reflection-induced standing wave effects decline considerably. It demonstrates that the artificial reef can protect the beach from regular and irregular waves by reducing erosion and offshore transport of suspended sediments. Moreover, in the wave breaking area, the increase of maximum wave steepness criterium may give arise to the wave height. The morphological evolution is more sensitive to water depth factor than equilibrium sediment concentration factor, because the former is a controlling factor for beach profile characteristics while the latter forms the sandbar varying irregularly in shape. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper used dynamic image analysis (DIA) to analyze the grain size and shape data of beach surface sediments in Bao'ding Bay, eastern Hainan Island, China, and explored the effects of sediment transport modes and beach morphology on the grain size–shape trend curves. This paper adopted a method of combining grain size cumulative frequency curves and grain size–shape trend curves to identify three sediment transport modes: suspension, saltation, and traction, and analyzed the characteristics of the grain size–shape trend curves under different beach morphologies (reflective, intermediate, and dissipative). This paper found that the grain size–shape trend curves can effectively indicate the sediment transport modes and improve the accuracy of subpopulation division; the grain size–shape trend curves showed different distribution characteristics in the cross-shore and longshore directions, which are closely related to the beach's morphology and sediment transport direction. This paper provides a new method and idea for studying beach sediment transport and sedimentary environment using sediment grain size and shape data. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study investigated the beach nourishment effect and topographical changes when using nourishment sand with relatively large particle diameters to perform beach nourishment on a beach subject to erosion. A physical model test was conducted in a 2D wave flume with an installed wind tunnel. The experiment examined the sediment transport mechanism under conditions with wind and waves. Although applying nourishment sand with large particle diameters attenuated sediment transport, the increase in particle diameter was not always proportional to the reduction in topographical changes. Increasing the particle diameter of the nourishment sand increased the friction force between particles, resulting in large-scale erosion and accretion around the coastline, and this trend increased with winds. Also, with wind, the wave run-up height increased, the undertow became stronger, and large-scale scouring occurred at the boundary between the nourishment sand and the existing beach. Increasing the particle diameter of the nourishment sand played a role in reducing the run-up phenomenon (d50: 1.0 mm with 24–50%, d50: 5.0 mm with 59–83%), and the range of particles moved by winds also decreased (d50: 1.0 mm with 10–38%, d50: 5.0 mm with 5–37%). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Particle morphology is an important feature of sediments that reflects their transport history and depositional environment. In this study, we used dynamic image analysis (DIA) to measure the size and shape of beach sediments on the east and west coasts of Hainan Island in South China Sea. DIA is a fast and accurate method that can capture and analyze a large number of sediment particles in real-time. We extracted morphological descriptors of each particle, such as equivalent diameter, sphericity, aspect ratio and symmetry, and their distributions based on volume and number. We performed multivariate analysis on the particle morphological data, including alpha diversity, statistical analysis and fingerprint techniques. We found that the Shannon index, calculated by the number distribution of sediment particle morphology, can effectively discriminate between the two sites, reflecting different sediment sources, transport processes and depositional conditions. We also established a composite fingerprint based on seven morphological parameters and diversity indices, which can accurately distinguish between aeolian and hydraulic sedimentary environments. Our study demonstrates the potential application of DIA in identifying sedimentary environments and establishing sediment fingerprints. This can help us understand the sediment transport processes and depositional mechanisms in coastal areas. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Field measurements of longshore sediment transport have been performed in the surf zone along Denu Beach, located in the Volta Region of Ghana, West Africa. This study consisted of measuring sediment transport rates by the deployment of modified versions of Kraus streamer traps on a cross-shore distance, which was about half the average surf zone width. In addition to the measured transport rates, data on waves, longshore currents, and other morphological parameters were collected with simple and low-cost instrumentation. In total, about 22 datasets were obtained through several days of data collection spanning a period of 5 months. Mathematical formulae proposed by CERC (1984), Kamphuis (1991), and the new van Rijn (2014) were used to compute theoretical transports for the entire surf zone, which were validated by measured data. Applying the CERC equation with a K-value of 0.39, the theoretical transports were about one order of magnitude higher than the measured rates. The rates computed by the Kamphuis formula were slightly higher than those yielded by the van Rijn equation. They produced values that were, on average, about 3.5 and 2.9 times higher than the measured rates, respectively. This study then confirmed the capabilities of both the Kamphuis and van Rijn equations to provide closer estimates of longshore sediment transport on Denu Beach. It especially sheds light on the new van Rijn formula, which has not been used extensively in LST quantification across the world. We, therefore, concluded that both the Kamphuis and van Rijn equations could be particularly useful to local engineers in the prediction of LST prior to the design of coastal protection structures. Further long-term studies employing available cutting-edge technologies were also recommended to provide more information on longshore transport not only in Ghana but also in the entire Gulf of Guinea and for the establishment of a reliable sediment budget for the country and the entire region. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Costa da Caparica beach, in Portugal, has suffered from chronic erosion for the last 50 years, a phenomenon that has been countered by various management interventions. This study aims at comparing sixteen possible interventions, thus identifying the most effective one(s) in terms of reducing beach erosion or even promoting beach accretion. This exercise is achieved using a one-line shoreline evolution model, calibrated with in situ field data, forced by local wave conditions. The target management period is 25 years. In the calibration phase, it is found that the annual mean alongshore net sediment transport along the 24 km sandy coast is variable in direction and magnitude, but it is mostly smaller than ±50 × 103 m3/year. This net transport results from the imbalance of northward/southward-directed bulk transports of circa tenfold-larger magnitudes. This affects the overall sediment balance at the urban beaches, as well as the effectiveness of the intervention strategies. The results show that the present management strategy is effective in holding the shoreline position, although deploying the same nourishment volume but over a shorter area could lead to better results. The best solutions, which are capable of promoting beach accretion, implicate the lengthening of the terminal groin at the northern extremity of the beach. The results from this study can support decision makers in identifying the most appropriate management action, not just locally but also at other coastal regions where similar problems persist and the same methodology could be applied. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Typhoons play an important role in beach evolution. The storm surge and large waves caused by typhoons can cause significant changes in beach morphology in a short period of time. The mechanism of beach evolution and profile changes during typhoons is significantly different from that under non-typhoon dynamic conditions. The XBeach numerical model provides an effective tool for predicting the response of sandy coasts to typhoons. This study is based on field-collected long-term beach profile elevations and grain size data, which were used to establish a two-dimensional XBeach model for simulating the morphological evolution of Cudao Island Beach under Typhoon Lekima. The GSA (Generalized Sensitivity Analysis) method was used to determine the sensitivity order of several important parameters in this modeling. Four different moments of wave height variation were selected during the typhoon process to analyze and study beach evolution. The results show that Chudao South Beach is always in a state of erosion during the typhoon period. The wave water increase is apparent in the nearshore wave-breaking area. The beach shoulder in the northeastern part of the beach is short, and the profile, with a short length, responds quickly to the typhoon. The eroded sediment is mainly deposited in the lower part of the intertidal zone or even transported outside of the wave-breaking zone, and a small part is transported to the shore and deposited in the high-tide zone. The continuous sediment transport along the coast of Chudao Beach is an important factor that influenced the evolution of each profile during Typhoon Lekima. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Croatia's coast located on the eastern Adriatic is rich with small gravel beaches with limited fetch. This leads to a specific low-energetic wave climate compared to most other beaches, while their gravel composition makes them unique. Most management of these beaches is performed without understanding the sediment transport occurring on the beaches. XBeach-Gravel is a numerical model capable of simulating bed-level change on gravel beaches, but lacks validation in the case of low significant wave height (under 2.5 m) and low peak periods (under 6 s), conditions that are present on the eastern Adriatic. Based on measurements performed in both laboratory conditions in a water canal in Hannover and actual storm wave conditions on Ploče beach, calibration of the model is performed. Model results are compared between laboratory conditions and field conditions for comparable wave conditions. XBeach-Gravel can simulate low-energetic events resulting in berm formation and berm buildup with a high Brier skill score if calibrated. Simulation of laboratory conditions requires high transport coefficient values and shows more sediment transport than similar wave conditions in the field. Calibration for field conditions is dependent on geodetic survey data capable of isolating wave events with dominant cross-shore transport, but once calibrated, XBeach-Gravel can achieve good to excellent Brier skill score values in simulating sediment change in low-energetic wave conditions on the eastern Adriatic. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The Port of Klaipėda, located at the Klaipėda strait, divides the Lithuanian coast into two different geomorphological parts: southern—the coast of the Curonian Spit, and northern—the mainland coast. Port jetties interrupt the main sediment transport path along the South-Eastern Baltic Sea's coast. Port of Klaipėda reconstruction in 2002 and the beach nourishment project which started in 2014 significantly influenced the northern part of the coast, which led to changes in the coastal zone evolution. The measurements in various periods are essential for cross-shore profile elevation to analyze seabed morphology and sedimentation patterns. These data highlight our understanding of the scale and timing of seabed erosion or sedimentation processes scale and timing. This study evaluates the impact of anthropogenic pressure and natural factors on coastal geomorphology and dynamics. In order to assess the latter changes, the cross-shore profile evolution and sediment budget were analyzed as well as nearshore bathymetry changes. The data illustrated a changing picture of the entire shore profile—on land and underwater. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The accurate determination of cross-shore longshore current profiles in the surf zone is essentially important in understanding of coastal physical processes and modelling of longshore sediment transport. In this study, a comprehensive laboratory study was undertaken to directly measure longshore current profiles over plane beaches with two mild slopes, 1:40 and 1:100, in a wave basin 55 m long, 34 m wide, and 0.7 m deep. Different wave conditions with an incidence angle of 30° were generated by piston-type wave makers consisting of 70 individual paddles, and two arrays of 29 Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters (ADVs) were used to measure longshore currents in the surf zone. Based on the experimental data collected in this study, three types of cross-shore longshore current profiles were found on the two plane beaches under different testing wave conditions, namely quasi-Rayleigh, quasi-Gaussian, and M-shape profiles. The quasi-Rayleigh profile was found on the beach slope of 1:40, and the other two types were found on the beach slope of 1:100. Analytical formulae were proposed to describe these profiles and agreed well with the laboratory data. The fluctuations of longshore currents observed in this study were attributed to their shear instabilities based on linear instability analysis. The results of the linear instability analysis and the spectra of measured velocities also showed that the three types of velocity profiles led to different instability characteristics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The compatibility of sediments in terms of grain size, composition and colour among beaches and strategic sediment deposits (SSD) along Western Sardinia (Western Mediterranean Sea) were assessed to explore management strategy in the protection and adaptation to counteract the beach erosion and the effect of sea level rise along sandy shores. Twelve beaches, mainly conditioned by geological control, due to the presence of extensive rocky outcrops in the sea, enclosed in seven sedimentary cells (defined by the continuity of sediment transport pathways and by identification of boundaries where there are discontinuities), were characterised in terms of sediment composition and grain size. One hundred ninety-three beach sediments and one hundred sediments from SSDs were collected and analysed for sediment grain size, carbonate content and sediment colour. The beach sediments are composed by gravel to fine sands (D50: from 81 µm to 4986 µm) with siliciclastic and biogenic carbonate sediments mixed in different proportions (0–100% in CaCO3). The SSDs sediments are gravels to medium-fine sand (D50: from 96 µm to 1769 µm) composed by biogenic carbonate sands mixed with siliciclastic grains (0–100% in CaCO3). To be able to evaluate the compatibility between the beaches and SSDs, a multivariate statistical procedure was applied to grain size dataset. Our results show that 8 beaches have strategic deposits of compatible grain size and composition, whereas only 2 beaches have compatible strategic deposits of both grain size and colour. This may be related to the different sediment sources and depositional processes of sediment along the coastal cells and the continental shelf. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Nearshore nourishment is a common coastal flood risk management technique that can be constructed beneficially by using dredged sediment from navigation channels. A nearshore nourishment project was completed during the summer of 2021 in Harvey Cedars, NJ, USA, with 67,500 m3 of dredged sediment from Barnegat Inlet placed along approximately 450 m of beach in a depth of 3–4 m. In situ instruments were installed to monitor hydrodynamic conditions before and after dredged material placement, and nine topographic and bathymetric surveys were conducted to monitor nearshore morphological response to the nourishment. Shoreline location was extracted from satellite imagery using CoastSat software to compare historical trends to the shoreline response after construction. Seven months after construction, 40% of the nearshore nourishment was transported from the initial footprint and the centroid of the nourishment migrated towards shore and alongshore (north). The sheltering capacity of the nearshore berm appears to have captured an additional 58% of the placed volume from the longshore transport system and the beach width onshore of the placement increased by 10.9 m. Measured data, satellite imagery analysis, and rapid predictions all indicate that the nearshore nourishment at Harvey Cedars had a positive impact on the adjacent beach. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Small uncrewed aerial systems (sUASs) provide an efficient way to reveal processes controlling the morphology of sandy shorelines so that they can be more effectively managed. One of Hawaiʻi's most popular tourist destinations, Waikīkī's Royal Hawaiian Beach, features patterns of sediment transport driven by trade-wind activity, seasonal wave conditions, tropical storm activity, and other phenomena that make it an effective laboratory for the study of beach morphology. To evaluate the efficacy of using consumer-grade sUASs to monitor subaerial sand volume and processes that drive beach morphodynamics, we conducted weekly aerial and ground surveys from which high-resolution point clouds, digital elevation models, and orthomosaics were generated through structure from motion (SfM) photogrammetry. Our period of observation (April to November 2018) bracketed the Central Pacific hurricane season and the season of elevated southerly swell. Both phenomena are known to significantly influence sediment transport in the study area. Using empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analysis, we described combinations of single and dual littoral cell behavior generated by both longshore sediment transport and abrupt episodic fluctuations in cross-shore transport. While past studies have investigated morphological change at this location, this unique single and dual cell behavior within the greater littoral system had not been previously revealed. This study demonstrates that sUASs are capable of capturing high-resolution spatial and temporal topographic data that allow for detailed evaluation of both seasonal processes and abrupt perturbations of beach systems. These processes drive significant changes in beach area, volume, and overall beach morphology and their understanding critical to effective management in an era of sea level rise-driven change. The employed methodology was designed to be highly efficient and universally applicable to sandy shorelines whilst also being relatively inexpensive and instrumentation readily available, allowing for a more comprehensive understanding of these unique coastal environments. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Although geologically constrained sandy beaches are ubiquitous along wave-exposed coasts, there is still a limited understanding of their morphological response, particularly under storm conditions, which is mainly due to a critical lack of nearshore bathymetry observations. This paper examines the potential to derive bathymetries from video imagery under challenging wave conditions in order to investigate headland control on morphological beach response. For this purpose, a video-based linear depth inversion algorithm is applied to three consecutive weeks of frames collected during daylight hours from a single fixed camera located at La Petite Chambre d'Amour beach (Anglet, SW France). Video-derived bathymetries are compared against in situ topo-bathymetric surveys carried out at the beginning and end of the field experiment in order to assess the performance of the bathymetric estimates. The results show that the rates of accretion/erosion within the surf zone are strongly influenced by the headland, whereas the beach morphological response can be classified into three main regimes depending on the angle of wave incidence θ p : (1) under deflection configuration ( θ p > 0 ° ), the alongshore sediment transport was trapped at the updrift side of the headland, promoting sand accretion. (2) Under shadowed configuration ( θ p < 0 ° ), the interruption of the longshore current drove a deficit of sand supply at the downdrift side of the headland, leading to an overall erosion in the surf zone. (3) Under shore-normal configuration ( θ p = 0 ° ), rip channels developed, and up-state beach transition was observed. A comparison between video-derived bathymetries and surveys shows an overall root mean square error (RMSE) around 0.49 to 0.57 m with a bias ranging between −0.36 and −0.29 m. The results show that video-derived bathymetries can provide new insight into the morphological change driven by storm events. The combination of such inferred bathymetry with video-derived surface current data is discussed, showing great potential to address the coupled morphodynamics system under time-varying wave conditions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Myrtos Beach (Cephalonia Island, Ionian Sea, Greece) represents a pocket beach with strong touristic, economic and natural interest. In this research, the morphodynamic behavior of the coastal area (e.g., hydrodynamic and sedimentary state, morphology, orientation, etc.), the current wave conditions (extreme and dominant waves, wave exposure), and also external factors, such as human impact and the geotechnical condition of the wider area, are examined. Short- and medium-to-long-term analysis took place, such as mapping, sediment analysis, wave/wind analysis, numerical modeling, and satellite monitoring, in order to identify the dynamic forcing parameters related to geomorphology, sedimentology, and hydrology that prevail in the area. Additionally, the intense tectonics, the karstified limestones, and the steep slopes of the cliffs in combination with the frequent seismic events on the island set up a geotechnically unstable area, which often cause landslides on the beach of Myrtos; these supply the beach with a large amount of aggregates, constituting the main sediment supply. Wave exposure forcing conditions, longshore–rip current direction, and other hydrodynamic processes are stable with high values in the area, causing notable sediment transport within the bay boundaries. As a result, at Myrtos Bay there is a dynamic balance of the natural system, which is directly affected by human interventions. Taking also into consideration that Myrtos is one of the most famous beaches in Greece and one of the main attractions of Cephalonia Island with thousands of visitors every year, beach management must be focused on preserving the natural system of the coastal area. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Advances in image-based remote sensing using unmanned aerial vehicles (UAV) and structure-from-motion (SfM) photogrammetry continue to improve our ability to monitor complex landforms over representative spatial and temporal scales. As with other water-worked environments, coastal sediments respond to shaping processes through the formation of multi-scale topographic roughness. Although this topographic complexity can be an important marker of hydrodynamic forces and sediment transport, it is seldom characterized in typical beach surveys due to environmental and technical constraints. In this study, we explore the feasibility of using SfM photogrammetry augmented with an RTK quadcopter for monitoring the coastal topographic complexity at the beach-scale in a macrotidal environment. The method had to respond to resolution and time constraints for a realistic representation of the topo-morphological features from submeter dimensions and survey completion in two hours around low tide to fully cover the intertidal zone. Different tests were performed at two coastal field sites with varied dimensions and morphologies to assess the photogrammetric performance and eventual means for optimization. Our results show that, with precise image positioning, the addition of a single ground control point (GCP) enabled a global precision (RMSE) equivalent to that of traditional GCP-based photogrammetry using numerous and well-distributed GCPs. The optimal model quality that minimized vertical bias and random errors was achieved from 5 GCPs, with a two-fold reduction in RMSE. The image resolution for tie point detection was found to be an important control on the measurement quality, with the best results obtained using images at their original scale. Using these findings enabled designing an efficient and effective workflow for monitoring coastal topographic complexity at a large scale. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The interconnections between hydrodynamics, coastal sediments, and ecosystem distribution were analysed for a ~250 km strip on the northern Mexican Caribbean coast. Ecosystems were related to the prevailing and extreme hydrodynamic conditions of two contrasting coastal environments in the study area: Cancun and Puerto Morelos. The results show that the northern Mexican Caribbean coast has fine and medium sands, with grain sizes decreasing generally, from north of Cancun towards the south of the region. Artificial beach nourishments in Cancun have affected the grain size distribution there. On beaches with no reef protection, larger grain sizes (D50 > 0.46 mm) are noted. These beaches are subject to a wide range of wave-induced currents (0.01–0.20 m/s) and have steeper coastal profiles, where sediments, macroalgae and dune-mangrove systems predominate. The coastline with the greatest amount of built infrastructure coincides with beaches unprotected by seagrass beds and coral reefs. Where islands or coral reefs offer protection through less intense hydrodynamic conditions, the beaches have flatter profiles, the dry beach is narrow, current velocities are low (~0.01–0.05 m/s) and sediments are finer (D50 < 0.36 mm). The results offer a science-based description of the interactions between physical processes and the role played by land uses for other tropical coastal ecosystems. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Landslides, debris flows, and other secondary disasters caused by earthquakes threaten the safety and stability of river basins. Earthquakes occur frequently in Japan. Therefore, it is necessary to study the impact of earthquakes on sediment transport in river basins. In this study, considering the influence of reservoirs, the Soil and Water Assessment Tool-calibration and uncertainty program (SWAT-CUP) was employed to analyze the runoff parameter sensitivity and to optimize the parameters. We manually corrected the sediment transport parameters after earthquake, using the Soil and Water Assessment Tool (SWAT) model to assess the process of runoff and sediment transport in the Atsuma River basin before and after the 2018 Hokkaido Eastern Iburi Earthquake. The applicability of the SWAT model to runoff simulation in the Atsuma River basin and the changes of sediment transport process after the earthquake were studied. The research results show that the SWAT model can accurately simulate the runoff process in the Atsuma River basin, the Nash–Sutcliffe efficiency coefficient (NSE) is 0.61 in the calibration period, and is 0.74 in the verification period. The sediment transport increased greatly after the earthquake and it is roughly estimated that the amount of sediment transport per unit rainfall increased from 3.5 tons/mm/year before the earthquake to 6.2 tons/mm/year after the earthquake. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Featured Application: The video monitoring system and mobile light detecting and ranging (LiDAR) used in this study can be applied for erosion control in beaches with various bedforms and coastal structures. Shoreline processes observed by a video monitoring system were investigated under different wave conditions. A 30 m-high tower equipped with video cameras was constructed in Hujeong Beach, South Korea, where coastal erosion was suspected to occur. Two-year shoreline data since December 2016 showed that beach area, A b , has decreased, but periods of rapid increase in A b were also observed. Shoreline change was closely related to the wave propagation directions and bottom topography. A b increased when waves approached the shore obliquely, whereas it decreased when they approached in a normal direction. The shoreline became undulated when A b increased, while it became flatter when A b decreased. The undulation process was influenced by nearshore bedforms because the shoreline protruded in the lee area where underwater rocks or nearshore sandbars actively developed, with a sheltering effect on waves. Specifically, the locations of shoreline accretion corresponded to the locations where the sandbar horns (location where a crescentic sandbar protrudes toward the shore) developed, confirming the out-of-phase coupling between sandbars and shoreline. When waves with higher energy approached normal to the shore, the sheltering effect of sandbars and underwater rocks became weaker and offshore sediment transport occurred uniformly along the coast, resulting in flatter shorelines. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The attractiveness of beaches to people has led, in many places, to the construction of buildings at the beach–dune interface. Buildings change the local airflow patterns which, in turn, alter the sediment transport pathways and magnitudes. This induces erosion and deposition patterns around the structures. In this study, a numerical model is developed using the open-source computational fluid dynamics solver OpenFOAM. First, the model is used to predict the airflow patterns around a single rectangular building. The model predictions are validated with wind-tunnel data, which show good agreements. Second, a reference beach building is introduced and then the building dimensions are increased in length, width and height, each up to three times the reference building dimension. The impact of each dimensional extent on the near-surface airflow patterns is investigated. The results show that the near-surface airflow patterns are least dependent on the length of the building in the wind direction and they depend most on the width of the building perpendicular to the wind direction. Third, the convergence of the third-order horizontal near-surface velocity field is calculated to interpret the impact of changes in airflow patterns on potential erosion and deposition patterns around the building. The numerical predictions are compared with the observed erosion and sedimentation patterns around scale models in the field. The comparisons show satisfactory agreements between numerical results and field measurements. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Recently, many rigid structures have been installed to cope with and efficiently manage coastal erosion. However, the changes in the coastline or isocenter and the movements of coastal sediment are poorly understood. This study examined the equilibrium shoreline and isocenter lines by applying a Model of Estimating Equilibrium Parabolic-type Shoreline (MeEPASoL) as an equilibrium shoreline prediction model. In addition, the inverse method was used to estimate littoral drift sediment transport from long-term beach profile observations. The movement of coastal sediments was analyzed using long-term beach profile observation data for three Indonesian beaches, namely, Kuta Beach for 13 years, Karang Beach in Sanur for 15 years, and Samuh Beach in Nusa Dua for 18 years. The littoral drift at every site was dynamically controlled by seasonal changes in the monsoon, the erosion and deposition patterns coupled with the presence of coastal structures, and limited sediment movement. Shoreline deformation in Kuta is generally backward deformed, with a littoral drift from south to north. In Sanur, the littoral drift vector carries sediment from the right and left sides and forms a salient behind the offshore breakwater. The littoral drift at Nusa Dua is dominantly from south to north, but the force of sediment transport decreases near the breakwater towards the north. Furthermore, the methods applied herein could aid the development of strategic coastal management plans to control erosion in subcells of coastal areas. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Wave dynamics contribute significantly to coastal hazards and were thus investigated at Vougot Beach by simulating both historical and projected future waves considering climate change impacts. The historical period included a major storm event. This period was projected to the future using three globally averaged sea level rise (SLR) scenarios for 2100, and combined SLR and wave climate scenarios for A1B, A2, and B1 emissions paths of the IPCC. The B1 wave climate predicts an increase in the occurrence of storm events. The simulated waves in all scenarios showed larger relative changes at the beach than in the nearshore area. The maximum increase of wave energy for the combined SLR and wave scenarios was 95%, while only 50% for the SLR-only scenarios. The effective bed shear stress from waves and currents showed different spatial variability than that of the wave height, emphasizing the importance of interactions between nearshore waves and currents. Increases in the effective bed shear stress (combined scenarios: up to 190%, and SLR-only scenarios: 35%) indicate that the changes in waves and currents will likely have significant impacts on the nearshore sediment transport. This work emphasizes that combined SLR and future wave climate scenarios need to be used to evaluate future changes in local hydrodynamics and their impacts. These results provide preliminary insights into potential future wave dynamics at Vougot Beach under different climate change scenarios. Further studies are necessary to generalize the results by investigating the wave dynamics during storm events with different hydrodynamical conditions and to evaluate potential changes in sediment transport and morphological evolution due to climate change. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Beach nourishment represents a type of coastal defense intervention, keeping the beach as a natural coastal defense system. Altering the cross-shore profile geometry, due to the introduction of new sediments, induces a non-equilibrium situation regarding the local wave dynamics. This work aims to increase our knowledge concerning 3D movable bed physical modeling and beach nourishment impacts on the hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and morphodynamics. A set of experiments with an artificial beach nourishment movable bed model was prepared. Hydrodynamic, sediment transport, and morphological variations and impacts due to the presence of the nourishment were monitored with specific equipment. Special attention was given to the number and positioning of the monitoring equipment and the inherent constraints of 3D movable beds laboratory tests. The nourishment induced changes in the beach dynamics, leading to an increase in the flow velocities range and suspended sediment concentration, and effectively increasing the emerged beach width. Predicting and anticipating the morphological evolution of the modeled beach has a major impact on data accuracy, since it might influence the monitoring equipment's correct position. Laboratory results and constraints were characterized to help better define future laboratory procedures and strategies for increasing movable bed models' accuracy and performance. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this paper, a new approach to model wave-driven, cross-shore shoreline change incorporating multiple timescales is introduced. As a base, we use the equilibrium shoreline prediction model ShoreFor that accounts for a single timescale only. High-resolution shoreline data collected at three distinctly different study sites is used to train the new data-driven model. In addition to the direct forcing approach used in most models, here two additional terms are introduced: a time-upscaling and a time-downscaling term. The upscaling term accounts for the persistent effect of short-term events, such as storms, on the shoreline position. The downscaling term accounts for the effect of long-term shoreline modulations, caused by, for example, climate variability, on shorter event impacts. The multi-timescale model shows improvement compared to the original ShoreFor model (a normalized mean square error improvement during validation of 18 to 59%) at the three contrasted sandy beaches. Moreover, it gains insight in the various timescales (storms to inter-annual) and reveals their interactions that cause shoreline change. We find that extreme forcing events have a persistent shoreline impact and cause 57–73% of the shoreline variability at the three sites. Moreover, long-term shoreline trends affect short-term forcing event impacts and determine 20–27% of the shoreline variability. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Rubble islands are dynamic sedimentary features present on reef platforms that evolve under a variety of morphodynamic processes and controlling mechanisms. They provide valuable inhabitable land for small island nations, critical habitat for numerous species, and are threatened by climate change. Aiming to investigate the controlling mechanisms dictating the evolution of One Tree Island (OTI), a rubble island in the Southern Great Barrier Reef, we combined different remotely-sensed data across varying timescales with wave data extracted from satellite altimetry and cyclone activity. Our findings show that (1) OTI had expanded by 7% between 1978 and 2019, (2) significant gross planform decadal adjustments were governed by the amount, intensity, proximity, and relative position of cyclones as well as El Niño Southern Oscillation (ENSO) phases, and (3) the mechanisms of island growth involve rubble spits delivering and redistributing rubble to the island through alongshore sediment transport and wave overtopping. Frequent short-term monitoring of the island and further research coupling variations in the different factors driving island change (i.e., sediment availability, reef-wave interactions, and extreme events) are needed to shed light on the future trajectory of OTI and other rubble islands under a climate change scenario. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal erosion is anissuewhich affects beaches all over the world and that signifies enormous economic and environmental losses. Classed as a slow phenomenon, the evolution of the coastline requires long-term analysis. In this study, old cartography and aerial photographs from various dates have been used to study the evolution of the coastline. The information has been processed with free software (QGIS) and for the calculation of sediment transport the Coastal Modeling System (SMC) software. The results show the accretion/erosion phenomena that occurred after the construction of the port in San Pedro del Pinatarin 1954 and which changed the coastal dynamics of a highly protected area. In some sectors, the beach has been reduced almost in its entirety, with retreat rates of up to −2.05 m per year and a total area loss of 66,419.81 m2 in Las Salinas beach and 76,891.13 m2 on Barraca Quemada beach. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

An equilibrium beach profile model is developed and coupled with a parametric hydrodynamic model to provide feedback between the evolving morphology and the hydrodynamics. The model is compared to laboratory beach profiles evolving toward equilibrium conditions under constant forcing. The equilibrium model follows the classical approach but uses the bulk sediment transport as the governing model parameter. This approach is coupled with empirically derived and normalised sediment transport functions and a parametric surf zone wave transformation model. The dissipation predicted by the surf zone model controls the cross-shore position of the maxima in the sediment transport functions and hence the cross-shore evolution of the beach profile. Realistic beach profile shapes are generated for both erosive (barred) and accretive (bermed) beach profiles, and predictions of bar and berm position are satisfactory. With more complex normalised sediment transport functions, the model can be applied to conditions with a cyclical wave climate. However, the model concept is better associated with erosive wave conditions and further work is required to improve the link between the modelled dissipation and local transport for accretive conditions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Beach nourishment, a common practice to replenish an eroded beach face with filling sand, has become increasingly popular as an environmentally friendly soft engineering measure to tackle coastal erosion. In this study, three 200 m long offshore submerged sandbars were placed about 200 m from the shore in August 2017 for both coastal protection and beach nourishment at Shanhai Pass, Bohai Sea, northeastern China. A series of 21 beach profiles were collected from August 2017 to July 2018 to monitor the morphological changes of the nourished beach. Field observations of wave and tide levels were conducted for one year and tidal current for 25 h, respectively. To investigate the spatial-temporal responses of hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and morphology to the presence of three artificial submerged sandbars, a two-dimensional depth-averaged (2DH) multi-fraction sediment transport and morphological model were coupled with wave and current model and implemented over a spatially varying nested grid. The model results compare well with the field observations of hydrodynamics and morphological changes. The tidal range was around 1.0 m and the waves predominately came from the south-south-east (SSE) direction in the study area. The observed and predicted beach profiles indicate that the sandbars moved onshore and the morphology experienced drastic changes immediately after the introduction of sandbars and reached an equilibrium state in about one year. The morphological change was mainly driven by waves. Under the influences of the prevailing waves and the longshore drift toward the northeast, the coastline on the leeside of the sandbars advanced seaward by 35 m maximally while the rest adjacent coastline retreated severely by 44 m maximally within August 2017–July 2018. The model results demonstrate that the three sandbars have little effect on the tidal current but attenuate the incoming wave significantly. As a result, the medium-coarse sand of sandbars is transported onshore and the background silt is mainly transported offshore and partly in the longshore direction toward the northeast. The 2- and 5-year model simulation results further indicate that shoreline salient may form behind the sandbars and protrude offshore enough to reach the sandbars, similar to the tombolo behind the breakwater. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Understanding swash zone dynamics is of crucial importance for coastal management as the swash motion, consisting of the uprush of the wave on the beach face and the subsequent downrush, is responsible for driving changes in the beach morphology through sediment exchanges between the sub-aerial and sub-aqueous beach. Improved understanding of the probabilistic characteristics of these motions has the potential to allow coastal engineers to develop improved sediment transport models which, in turn, can be further developed into coastal management tools. In this paper, novel descriptors of swash motions are obtained by combining field data and statistical modelling. Our results indicate that the probability distribution function (PDF) of shoreline height timeseries ( p (ζ) ) and trough-to-peak swash heights ( p (ρ) ) measured at a high energy, sandy beach were both inherently multimodal. Based on the observed multimodality of these PDFs, Gaussian mixtures are shown to be the best method to statistically model them. Further, our results show that both offshore and surf zone dynamics are responsible for driving swash zone dynamics, which indicates unsaturated swash. The novel methods and results developed in this paper, both data collection and analysis, could aid coastal managers to develop improved swash zone models in the future. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

For observation on the influence mechanism of environmentally and aesthetically friendly artificial submerged sand bars and reefs in a process-based way, a set of experiments was conducted in a 50 m-long flume to reproduce the cross-shore beach morphodynamic process under four irregular wave conditions. The beach behavior is characterized by the scarp (indicating erosion) and the breaker bar (indicating deposition), respectively, and the scarp location can be formulated as a linear equation regarding the natural exponential of the duration time. Overall, main conclusions are: (1) the cross-shore structure of significant wave height and set-up is mainly determined by the artificial reef (AR); (2) the cross-shore distribution of wave skewness, asymmetry, and undertow (indicating shoaling and breaking) is more affected by the artificial submerged sand bar (ASB); (3) the ASB deforms and loses its sand as it attenuates incident waves, which leads to a complex sediment transport pattern; (4) the scarp retreat is related to the beach state, which can be changed by the AR and the ASB; (5) the AR, the ASB, and their combination decrease wave attack on the beach. In conclusion, this study proves positive effects of the AR and the ASB in beach protection through their process-based influences on beach behaviors and beach states for erosive waves. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Intertidal bars are naturally occurring morphological features along the waterline of sandy beaches. Present quantitative knowledge on intertidal bar behavior is limited, due to the scarcity of data resources and the limitations of traditional survey techniques. To investigate and quantify the cross-shore morphologic behavior of intertidal bars, hourly terrestrial laser scans of Kijkduin beach (The Netherlands) are used and a conceptual evolution intertidal bar model is constructed. In a six-week period in January and February 2017, a pronounced intertidal bar formed at Kijkduin beach and migrated onshore during mild wave conditions and eroded again during storm conditions. The observed maximum shoreward migration was 30 m horizontally with a maximum growth of about 1 m in the vertical direction. Onshore sediment transport fluxes peaked around 2 m3 per m width per day. In the conceptual model proposed here, run-up and overwash processes are dominant for shoreward growth and migration of the bar and submersion processes are responsible for bar destruction. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Artificial reefs are being implemented around the world for their multi-functions including coastal protection and environmental improvement. To better understand the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic roles of an artificial reef (AR) in beach protection, a series of experiments were conducted in a 50 m-long wave flume configured with a 1:10 sloping beach and a model AR (1.8 m long × 0.3 m high) with 0.2 m submergence depth. Five regular and five irregular wave conditions were generated on two types of beach profiles (with/without model AR) to study the cross-shore hydrodynamic and morphological evolution process. The influences of AR on the processes are concluded as follows: (1) AR significantly decreases the incident wave energy, and its dissipation effect differs for higher and lower harmonics under irregular wave climates; (2) AR changes the cross-shore patterns of hydrodynamic factors (significant wave height, wave skewness and asymmetry, and undertow), leading to the movement of shoaling and breaking zones; (3) the beach evolution is characterized by a sandbar and a scarp which respectively sit at a higher and lower location on the profile with AR than natural beach without AR; (4) the cross-shore morphological features indicate that AR can lead to beach state transformation toward reflective state; (5) the scarp retreat process can be described by a model where the scarp location depends linearly on the natural exponential of time with the fitting parameters determined by wave run-up reduced by AR. This study demonstrates cross-shore effects of AR as a beach protection structure that changes wave dynamics in surf and swash zone, reduces offshore sediment transport, and induces different morphological features. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper reports the results of hydrodynamic measurements at two different water depths to observe wave properties in the course of wave propagation, especially during storm periods, in Hujeong Beach, Korea. In addition to hydrodynamic measurements, video monitoring data and satellite images from Sentinel-II were employed to compare the temporal changes in shoreline positions and shallow water bathymetry during the storms. Through combination of a variety of observational data sets, the accuracy of analysis could be enhanced by preventing possible misinterpretation. Two significant storms were observed from two experiments conducted at different times and locations of the beach. The hydrodynamic conditions were similar in both of the periods in terms of wave and current conditions as well as wave nonlinearity such as skewness. However, the response of shoreline during the two storms was the opposite because it was eroded during the first storm but advanced during the second storm. This suggests that other controlling factors such as storm duration need to be investigated to support the analysis of cross-shore sediment transport and consequent shoreline evolution for future studies. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Video monitoring systems (VMS) have been used for beach status observation but are not effective for examining detailed beach processes as they only measure changes to the shoreline and backshore. Here, we extracted longshore sediment transport (LST) from VMS in order to investigate long- and short-term littoral processes on a pocket beach. LST estimated by applying one-line theory, wave power, and the oblique angle of incident waves were used to understand shoreline changes caused by severe winter storms. The estimated LST showed good agreement with the shoreline changes because the sediments were trapped at one end of the pocket beach and the alongshore direction of transported sediments was corresponded to the direction of LST. The results also showed that the beach that was severely eroded during storms was also rapidly recovered following the evolution of LST, which indicates that the LST may play a role in the recovery process while the erosion was mainly caused by the cross-shore transport due to storm waves. After the beach was nourished, beach changes became more active, even under lower wave energy conditions, owing to the equilibrium process. The analysis presented in this study could be applied to study inhomogeneous beach processes at other sites. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The Ria de Vigo (NW Iberian Peninsula) is one of the most impacted coastal areas of Galicia, due to demographic and industrial pressure. One of the main consequences of this pressure is the need to extend the current wastewater treatment plant of the city of Vigo (295,000 inhabitants). This extension includes a new submerged pipeline construction to discharge the treated water in the central channel of the Ria. The new planned pipeline must cross Samil Beach, the most important urban beach of the city. Based on a multitool strategy, this work characterizes the interactions between the new pipeline route alternatives and the sediment dynamics of Samil Beach. This approximation improves the reliability of the results in the subtidal area of the beach, where studies are scarce due to the complexity of the data acquisition. The present study is based on high resolution bathymetry data, seabed physical characterization, a granulometric study of the superficial sediment, and a numerical simulation of the tide, wave climate, and sediment transport in low and high energy conditions using open source Delft3D software. The results showed that the area of interest is a low energy area, which is significantly shielded from wave attack, where fine sand predominates. However, the field data indicated an interaction (accretion-erosion) in the submerged obstacles between 0 and 12 m deep. The model revealed that there is significant sediment movement above a 7.4 m isobath, and that the pipeline would not alter the general transport dynamics of the beach, but would interact in the shallowest section. The main conclusion of this work states that the future structure would not alter the global sediment dynamics of the beach. In addition, in order to guarantee the safety of the new pipeline, it should emerge above an 8 m isobath. The multiapproach methodology presented can be applied to other studies of the interaction between coastal structures and the environment. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Predicting the morphological changes of the backshore is vital for appropriate beach management because the backshore plays a significant role in the ecosystem and disaster prevention. In this study, a one-dimensional model was developed and applied to the Hasaki Coast in Japan to predict changes in backshore volume. The volume change was estimated from the difference between the aeolian sediment transport rates at the seaward and landward boundaries of the investigation area, considering the wind velocity and direction, sediment size, precipitation, and vegetation in the process. The model was calibrated and validated using the first and second halves of beach profile data obtained weekly at the Hasaki Coast over a 28-year period from 1987 to 2014. The validation suggests that the model can reasonably reproduce the cumulative volume change, which is the amount of volume change from the initial value, but it underestimates the time-varying fluctuations of the weekly averaged volume-change rate. This can be attributed to the presence of small-scale features, such as dense vegetation and wrack, which are not taken into account in the model. Although the model performance for the cumulative volume change was good, it overpredicted the values in the second half of the validation process. This can be attributed to the fact that the model is not able to predict reductions in the aeolian sediment transport rate caused by an increase in beach steepness. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

To relate hydrodynamic forcing and topographic response for a tide-dominated sandy beach, extensive field measurements were carried out in the intertidal zone. Hydrodynamics and beach topography were monitored during a total of 12 weeks at two different study sites: one with a featureless intertidal zone and one with intertidal bars. The results of both study sites indicate that the intertidal beach grows when wave steepness is small, whereas it erodes when wave steepness is large. Spring-neap variations in tidal current direction heavily distort this trend: strong spring tidal currents transport sediment away from the beach, resulting in enhanced erosion. Tide-induced beach volume changes are on the same order of magnitude as wave-induced changes. Besides waves and tides, the effect of variations in the amount of sediment supply is substantial, with enhanced accretion when the sediment supply is large. The effect of variations in sediment supply on the intertidal beach topography is subordinate to the effect of waves and tide, though. From this study, it is concluded that larger waves are primarily erosive, but they can also enhance the natural sediment supply. Furthermore, it is found that tidal currents can be equally important as waves in shaping the beach topography, especially during spring tide on macrotidal beaches. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Episodic coastal hazards associated to sea storms are responsible for sudden and intense changes in coastal morphology. Climate change and local anthropogenic activities such as river regulation and urban growth are raising risk levels in coastal hotspots, like low-lying areas of river deltas. This urges to revise present management strategies to guarantee their future sustainability, demanding a detailed diagnostic of the hazard evolution. In this paper, flooding and erosion under current and future conditions have been assessed at local scale at the urban area of Riumar, a touristic enclave placed at the Ebro Delta (Spain). Process-based models have been used to address the interaction between beach morphology and storm waves, as well as the influence of coastal environment complexity. Storm waves have been propagated with SWAN wave model and have provided the forcings for XBeach, a 2DH hydro-morphodynamic model. Results show that future trends in sea level rise and wave forcing produce non-linear variations of the flooded area and the volume of mobilized sediment resulting from marine storms. In particular, the balance between flooding and sediment transport will shift depending on the relative sea level. Wave induced flooding and long-shore sand transport seem to be diminished in the future, whereas static sea level flooding and cross-shore sediment transport are exacerbated. Therefore, the characterization of tipping points in the coastal response can help to develop robust and adaptive plans to manage climate change impact in sandy wave dominated coasts with a low-lying hinterland and a complex shoreline morphology. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The evolution of different initial beach profiles towards the same final beach configuration is investigated based on large-scale experimental data. The same wave condition was performed three times, each time starting from a different initial profile morphology. The three different initial profiles are an intermediate energy profile with an offshore bar and a small swash berm, a plane profile and a low energy profile with a large berm. The three cases evolve towards the same final (equilibrium) profile determined by the same wave condition. This implies that the same wave condition generates different sediment transport patterns. Largest beach changes and differences in hydrodynamics occur in the beginning of the experimental cases, highlighting the coupling between morphology and hydrodynamics for beach evolution towards the same profile. The coupling between morphology and hydrodynamics that leads to the same final beach profile is associated with differences in sediment transport in the surf and swash zone, and is explained by the presence of bar and berm features. A large breaker bar and concave profile promote wave energy dissipation and reduce the magnitudes of the mean near-bed flow velocity close to the shoreline limiting shoreline erosion. In contrast, a beach profile with reflective features, such as a large berm and a small or no bar, increases negative velocity magnitudes at the berm toe promoting shoreline retreat. The findings are summarised in a conceptual model that describes how the beach changes towards equilibrium from two different initial morphologies. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A physical model test was carried out to evaluate a measure of reducing sediment transport in a condition of erosive wave incidence. The erosion trend was analyzed in a beach profile consisting of 0.1 mm sand, and a scenario in which 1 mm and 5 mm materials were applied to the erosion section was conducted. The effects of beach nourishment profiles with different sand diameters were verified by comparing the results when the submerged breakwater was installed. In addition, because high waves are usually accompanied with strong wind, to determine the wind effect, morphological change was examined under waves only and the coexistence of waves and wind together. The experimental results showed that sediment transport around the shoreline decreased in a condition of nourishment with 1 mm grains, and the total amount of morphological change was similar to the case in which the submerged breakwater was installed. The results illustrated that a change in wind velocity increased the wave energy density, as well as the range of morphological change. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Sediment transport is a key element in intertidal beach morphodynamics, but measurements of sediment transport are often unreliable. The aim of this study is to quantify and investigate cross-shore sediment transport and the resulting topographic changes for a tide-dominated, sandy beach. Two fortnight-long field experiments were carried out during which hydrodynamics and sediment dynamics were measured with optical and acoustic sensors, while the beach topography was surveyed with a permanent terrestrial laser scanner. Suspended sediment was generally well-mixed and currents were largest at approximately 1.5 m above the bed, which resulted in a peak in sediment transport at 1/3 of the high tide level. The mean transport direction was onshore during calm conditions (wave height <0.6 m) thanks to tidal currents and offshore during energetic conditions due to undertow. Oscillatory transport was always onshore because of wave asymmetry but it was subordinate to mean transport. The intertidal zone showed an alternation of erosion and accretion with formation of morphological features during energetic (no storm) conditionsand smoothening of the morphology during calm conditions. A good qualitative and quantitative agreement was found between the daily cross-shore suspended load and beach volume changes, especially during calm conditions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In Africa, several new seaport developments are being considered. In sedimentary environments, such port developments can have adverse impacts on the evolution of adjacent coastlines. To learn from past port engineering practice, we created a unique database containing the coastline evolution and characteristics of 130 existing African seaports. Whereas the systematic mapping of coastal impacts was previously hampered by data availability, innovative automated satellite image processing techniques have enabled us to intercompare ports at an unprecedented continental scale. We found large geographical differences with respect to the beach evolution. The total detected changes in the beach area between 1984 and 2018 totaled 44 km2, of which ca. 23 km2 is accretion and ca. 21 km2 is erosion. The top 10% "hotspot" ports account for more than 65% of these changes. These hotspots exhibit common characteristics, namely: they are located on open coastlines, have large alongshore sediment transport potential, and have large cross-shore breakwaters. Although these driving characteristics are well established in coastal engineering theory, our results indicate that the beaches adjacent to the existing seaports have been and remain seriously affected by these drivers. Our results can be used to inform beach maintenance strategies for existing seaports and to support planners and engineers to minimize long-term coastal impacts of port expansions and new port developments in Africa in the future. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Aeolian sediment transport on beaches is responsible for dune growth and/or recovery. Models predicting potential aeolian sediment transport rates often overpredict the amount of deposition on the foredune when applied to narrow (<100 m) beaches, pointing to supply limitations. Our goal is to better understand these limitations, especially in the long-term (>years) in order to improve predicted transport volumes and the timing of transport. Here, we used 8 years of Argus video images at Egmond aan Zee, The Netherlands, in combination with routine weather data to delineate 241 limited from 467 unlimited sand transport events to explore supply-limiting factors. Our research shows that the wind is more oriented to the west (shore normal) and is generally stronger for limited transport events. This indicates that the available fetch distance is often less than the critical fetch needed for unlimited transport. This is further confirmed by the timing of the transport events, as limited events often became unlimited during low tide when the beach was the widest and fetch potentially the longest. Our results help understanding the nature of aeolian sediment transport on narrow beaches, which will hopefully lead to better predictions of annual aeolian sediment transport rates. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A new experimental campaign on a 2D movable-bed physical model, reproducing a typical nourishment sandy beach profile, is being carried out in the wave flume of the Laboratory of Coastal Engineering at Politecnico di Bari (Bari, Italy). The main aim is to assess the short-term evolution of a sandy beach nourishment, relying on a mixed solution built on the deployment of a Beach Drainage System (BDS) and a rubble-mound detached submerged breakwater. This paper aims at illustrating the experimental findings. Tests presented herein deal with both unprotected and protected configurations, focusing on the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes under erosive conditions. Results show that, with respect to the unprotected conditions, BDS reduces the shoreline retreat and the beach steepen within swash and surf zone as well. Moreover, a reduction of net sediment transport rate is observed. When BDS is coupled with the submerged sill, a reversal of the prevalent direction of the net sediment transport seaward occurs offshore the sheltered region. Less considerable positive effects on shoreline retreat are induced by the submerged structure, whereas the mean beach slope remains quite stable. Secondary effects of drain on the submerged sill performance are also highlighted. BDS reduces wave-induced setup on beach, by mitigating the mean water level raising, typically experienced by such structures. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]