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Beach–dune systems are highly dynamic features of the coastal system, the evolution of which is influenced by several processes that occur at very different spatial and temporal scales. To mitigate shoreline retreat that threatens extensive coastal areas worldwide, coastal erosion mitigation measures are implemented, aiming to make coastal areas resilient to the effects induced by coastal erosion and the anticipated climate change related to storms, flood events and sea level rise. Numerical modelling can support planned and sustainable coastal management from a medium-to-long-term perspective (decades). This research focuses on presenting contributions regarding the numerical modelling of subaerial beach dynamics (berm width and dune systems interactions) from a medium-term perspective. The method applied is based on a combination of the results of two simplified numerical models (the LTC and CS-Model). The results demonstrate the potential of the proposed combined model for medium-term projections, allowing for the interpretation of beach–dune dynamics and the evaluation of the importance of longshore and cross-shore sediment transport processes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal erosion poses significant challenges to shoreline management, exacerbated by rising sea levels and changing climate patterns. This study investigates the influence of gap spacing between semicircular coastal defence structures on shoreline dynamics during storm events. The innovative design of these structures aims to induce a drift reversal of prevalent sediment transport while avoiding interruption of alongshore sediment drift, thus protecting the beach. Three different gap spacings, ranging from 152 m to 304 m, were analysed using the XBeach numerical model, focusing on storm morphodynamic behaviour. Methodologically, hydrodynamic and morphodynamic analyses were conducted to understand variations in significant wave heights adjacent to the structures, in accretion and erosion volumes, and changes in bed level under storm conditions. The study aims to elucidate the complex interaction between engineered coastal protection solutions and natural coastal processes, providing practical insights for coastal management practices. Results indicate that installing semicircular coastal defence structures influences sediment dynamics during storm events, effectively protecting stretches of the coast at risk. Optimal gap spacing between structures is crucial to mitigating coastal erosion and enhancing sediment accumulation, offering a sustainable shoreline protection approach. The findings underscore the importance of balanced location selection to optimize protection benefits while minimizing adverse morphological effects. Overall, this research contributes to advancing knowledge of hydro-morphological phenomena essential for effective coastal engineering and informs the design and implementation of more sustainable coastal protection strategies in the face of increasing coastal erosion and sea level rise challenges. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Numerical modeling of wave transformation, hydrodynamics, and morphodynamics in coastal regions holds paramount significance for combating coastal erosion by evaluating and optimizing various coastal protection structures. This study aims to present an integration of numerical models to accurately simulate the coastal processes with the presence of coastal and harbor structures. Specifically, integrated modeling employs an advanced mild slope model as the main driver, which is capable of describing all the wave transformation phenomena, including wave reflection. This model provides radiation stresses as inputs to a hydrodynamic model based on Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes equations to simulate nearshore currents. Ultimately, these models feed an additional model that can simulate longshore sediment transport and bed level changes. The models are validated against experimental measurements, including energy dissipation due to bottom friction and wave breaking; combined refraction, diffraction, and breaking over a submerged shoal; wave transformation and wave-generated currents over submerged breakwaters; and wave, currents, and sediment transport fields over a varying bathymetry. The models exhibit satisfactory performance in simulating all considered cases, establishing them as efficient and reliable integrated tools for engineering applications in real coastal areas. Moreover, leveraging the validated models, a numerical investigation is undertaken to assess the effects of wave reflection on a seawall on coastal processes for two ideal beach configurations—one with a steeper slope of 1:10 and another with a milder slope of 1:50. The numerical investigation reveals that the presence of reflected waves, particularly in milder bed slopes, significantly influences sediment transport, emphasizing the importance of employing a wave model that takes into account wave reflection as the primary driver for integrated modeling of coastal processes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Numerical models can be powerful tools for evaluating the best scenarios for the construction of artificial nourishments to mitigate coastal erosion. Until recent decades, when looking at medium- to long-term simulations, cross-shore and alongshore processes have been studied separately. Accounting for both processes in a shoreline evolution numerical model would improve the understanding and predictive capacity of future changes in coastline evolution. The AX-COAST project aims to develop new capacities in modeling cross-shore sediment transport processes by adding the CS-Model, a cross-shore numerical model, into the existing LTC (Long-Term Configuration) model. The LTC model is a shoreline evolution numerical model which is a module of the cost–benefit assessment tool COAST. This work presents the first steps of the CS-Model implementation, which involve evaluating its performance by calibrating the model with extensive measured datasets of wave climate, beach profiles, tide levels, etc., from coastal areas in IJmuiden and Sand Motor in the Netherlands. The results show good agreement between modeled and observed values. Additionally, wave climate datasets derived from global and regional wave models were considered to evaluate modeling performance at IJmuiden. Using derived timeseries from the wave models did not significantly lead to different results compared to using measured data. The obtained mean absolute and relative errors for each profile were low for both types of datasets. Calibration processes with consistent data are important in modeling simulations to accurately represent the study area and ensure the credibility of future simulations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study, a swash-zone model, using Larson and Wamsley formula (LW07), was combined into the Telemac-2D model system to examine the performance of modeling swash-zone processes through comparisons with field observation data. The experimental site was the Haeundae Beach in South Korea where Typhoon Phanfone occurred in October 2014, and bathymetric surveys were performed before and after the typhoon. Hydrodynamic data were also measured to validate the modeled data. The performance of LW07 was tested by running the model in two modes, with and without LW07. First, the model was run to simulate the shoreline response to an imaginary coastal breakwater. The result showed a clear discrepancy between the two modes as the sediments were considerably cumulated behind the breakwater in the case with the swash-zone formula (LW07) in the wide range along the shoreline behind the breakwater, indicating that the sediments more actively and rapidly responded to the shadowing by the breakwater with LW07. The model was also run for a realistic case from August to October 2014, which included the typhoon's period during 2–6 October. The results showed that the morphological changes at both ends of the beach in the swash zone were simulated with higher accuracy with LW07, supporting the effectiveness of LW07 in simulating the short-term morphological changes induced by the typhoon attack. In particular, the successful simulation of the sand accumulation at the end sides of the beach's swash zone indicates that LW07 was effective in estimating not only the cross-shore transport but also longshore transport, which was likely due to the characteristics of LW07 that calculated sand transport in both directions. The enhanced modeling performance with LW07 was likely due to the adjustment of the sediment transport rate to the instantaneous changes in the local beach slope, which could successfully control the erosion/accretion process in the swash zone more realistically. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study, laboratory experiments were conducted to investigate the influence of changes in storm wave height and water level on beach response in a medium-scale wave flume. A schematic storm was simulated (rising, apex, and waning phases). A non-intrusive photogrammetric method was used to collect high-resolution and synchronous data regarding the free surface water elevation and bed level, from which shoreline location, sandbar position, cross-shore sediment transport rates, and nonlinear wave parameters were derived. The cross-shore sediment transport was in agreement with previous laboratory measurements, including the monotonous exchange from foreshore erosion to shoaling zone accretion in most stages of the storm simulation. The surf zone was the main region supplying sediment for beach morphology modification and sandbar generation. The degree of storm erosion was not completely determined by the largest wave height and water level or the cumulative wave power of the apex phase. The largest gradients of the wave parameter sequence change occurred in the rising phase, and this was the main factor generating efficient beachface erosion. It induced an increase in sandbar size, accompanied by the cross-shore motion of maximum velocity amplitude, more violent disturbances of wave nonlinearity, and increased surf zone erosion, with these factors increasing beach instability and leading to more severe storm erosion. The large wave height and water level resulted in shoreline retreat, with a more significant swash zone erosion under a higher runup. The offshore sediment transport turned toward the onshore direction as the original large sandbar deteriorated under the decreasing wave parameter sequence in the waning phase. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This work presents a new model for surf and swash zone morphology evolution induced by nonlinear waves. Wave transformation in the surf and swash zones is computed by a nonlinear wave model based on the higher order Boussinesq equations for breaking and non-breaking waves. Regarding sediment transport, the model builds on previous research by the authors and incorporates the latest update of a well-founded sediment transport formula. The wave and morphology evolution model is validated against two sets of experiments on beach profile change and is afterwards used to test the performance of a widely-adopted erosion/accretion criterion. The innovation of this work is the validation of a new Boussinesq-type morphology model under both erosive and accretive conditions at the foreshore (accretion is rarely examined in similar studies), which the model reproduces very well without modification of the empirical coefficients of the sediment transport formula used; furthermore, the model confirms the empirical erosion/accretion criterion even for conditions beyond the ones it was developed for and without imposing any model constraints. The presented set of applications highlights model capabilities in simulating swash morphodynamics, as well as its suitability for coastal erosion mitigation and beach restoration design [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

With the recent development from grey infrastructures to green infrastructures, artificial reefs become more popular in coastal protection projects. To investigate the responses of beach profile evolution to the presence of an artificial reef, a non-hydrostatic model is established. Both hydrodynamic and morphodynamic evolution for the beach with and without an artificial reef are compared under regular wave conditions. In addition, the protected beach profile evolution by an artificial reef is discussed under irregular wave conditions. Three key parameters in non-hydrostatic simulation are considered for sensitivity analysis, including maximum wave steepness criterium (maxbrsteep), water depth factor (depthscale), and equilibrium sediment concentration factor (sedcal). The numerical results under regular wave conditions indicate that the artificial reef enhances wave attenuation by inducing wave breaking. In addition, the artificial reef reduces local flow velocity and offshore sediment transport by 51%, therefore decrease the total erosion by 53%. Over the artificial reef, wave skewness and asymmetry go through a drastic change. Under irregular wave conditions, short waves contribute to the wave energy mainly and reflection-induced standing wave effects decline considerably. It demonstrates that the artificial reef can protect the beach from regular and irregular waves by reducing erosion and offshore transport of suspended sediments. Moreover, in the wave breaking area, the increase of maximum wave steepness criterium may give arise to the wave height. The morphological evolution is more sensitive to water depth factor than equilibrium sediment concentration factor, because the former is a controlling factor for beach profile characteristics while the latter forms the sandbar varying irregularly in shape. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study investigated the beach nourishment effect and topographical changes when using nourishment sand with relatively large particle diameters to perform beach nourishment on a beach subject to erosion. A physical model test was conducted in a 2D wave flume with an installed wind tunnel. The experiment examined the sediment transport mechanism under conditions with wind and waves. Although applying nourishment sand with large particle diameters attenuated sediment transport, the increase in particle diameter was not always proportional to the reduction in topographical changes. Increasing the particle diameter of the nourishment sand increased the friction force between particles, resulting in large-scale erosion and accretion around the coastline, and this trend increased with winds. Also, with wind, the wave run-up height increased, the undertow became stronger, and large-scale scouring occurred at the boundary between the nourishment sand and the existing beach. Increasing the particle diameter of the nourishment sand played a role in reducing the run-up phenomenon (d50: 1.0 mm with 24–50%, d50: 5.0 mm with 59–83%), and the range of particles moved by winds also decreased (d50: 1.0 mm with 10–38%, d50: 5.0 mm with 5–37%). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The three-dimensional liquid–sediment system of a coastline was investigated using experimental and numerical approaches. A scaled-down model of the coastline was numerically studied using smooth particle hydrodynamics (SPH). The flow dynamics and the impacts of the wave frequency and the seaward slope angle on the breaking wave characteristics of the two-phase liquid–sediment interaction were parametrically studied. A particle image velocimetry (PIV) experiment was conducted to validate the SPH predictions. It was found that the flow profiles obtained by the PIV and SPH are in good agreement both qualitatively and quantitatively. The maximum velocity of the fluid flow was recorded as 0.5623 m/s in the SPH simulation, but as 0.5860 m/s in the PIV experimental, with a percentage difference of 4.21%. Subsequently, it was found that the breaking wave characteristic is surging at the wave frequency range of f < 0.15 Hz, plunging at 0.15 < f < 0.55 Hz, and spilling at 0.55 < f ≤ 1.0 Hz. It was also established that at a particular Froude number, it is observed that spilling, plunging, and surging wave breakers are produced at low, mid, and high seaward slope angles, respectively. Meanwhile, increasing the Froude number increases the tendency to produce spilling or plugging breaking waves, irrespective of the slope angle. Ultimately, this study has demonstrated the presented methodology's usefulness in investigating coastlines' liquid–sediment interaction properties. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Continuous monitoring of the varying topographical characteristics of shorelines is important for effective coastal management. Closed-circuit television (CCTV) cameras are installed to accumulate photographic data on coastal topographical changes. The overall change in the coastal waters can be intuitively understood from the images. However, the amount of three-dimensional (3D) changes that can be grasped is limited. To address this, studies have employed aerial photogrammetry, which is the use of unmanned aerial vehicles (UAVs) to capture aerial pictures, construct 3D models of target areas, and perform analysis through scale-invariant feature transform and structure from motion technologies. Although highly efficient, this technique requires several ground-control points (GCPs), which could corrupt the overall imagery. This study designs real-time kinematics—global navigation satellite system (RTK–GNSS) UAV, which requires few GCPs. To evaluate the positional accuracy of the captured UAV orthographic images and digital surface models (DSMs) used for precise coastal terrain measurements, a virtual reference service survey was performed to determine the vertical errors. The R-squared was 0.985, which is close to 1.0. Short-term and one-year topographic changes before and after a storm were investigated using time-series UAV image data after a coastal maintenance project. Analysis of the coefficient of variation in the beach volume for one year revealed that submerged breakwater reduced erosion during high wave resistance. The submerged breakwater located in the center exhibited variability similar to the opening. Hence, this method is more suitable for periodically monitoring coastal areas. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Understanding the dynamics of beach–dune systems is crucial for effective coastal management. The cellular automata model DuBeVeg provides a powerful tool for simulating and understanding the bio-geomorphological evolution of these systems, capturing key interactions of aeolian, hydro-, and vegetation dynamics in a simplified manner. In this study, we present an alternative representation of the aeolian transport component in DuBeVeg, aiming to better capture the saltation transport mode that prevails on beaches. This new representation is compared with the original aeolian transport representation in DuBeVeg, which is inspired by ripple migration. For three beach width scenarios, we considered the effects of the different aeolian transport representations on the predicted foredune morphology after 50 years, as well as the spatio-temporal evolution of the beach–dune system leading to that morphologic state. The saltation transport representation resulted in a more realistic simulation of the seaward expansion of the foredune compared with the original representation, particularly in scenarios with wide and prograding beaches. The new representation also more accurately captured the amplitude of aeolian bedforms emerging across the beach. These findings highlight the importance of selecting the representative transport mode when simulating the transient bio-geomorphological evolution of beach–dune systems. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Costa da Caparica beach, in Portugal, has suffered from chronic erosion for the last 50 years, a phenomenon that has been countered by various management interventions. This study aims at comparing sixteen possible interventions, thus identifying the most effective one(s) in terms of reducing beach erosion or even promoting beach accretion. This exercise is achieved using a one-line shoreline evolution model, calibrated with in situ field data, forced by local wave conditions. The target management period is 25 years. In the calibration phase, it is found that the annual mean alongshore net sediment transport along the 24 km sandy coast is variable in direction and magnitude, but it is mostly smaller than ±50 × 103 m3/year. This net transport results from the imbalance of northward/southward-directed bulk transports of circa tenfold-larger magnitudes. This affects the overall sediment balance at the urban beaches, as well as the effectiveness of the intervention strategies. The results show that the present management strategy is effective in holding the shoreline position, although deploying the same nourishment volume but over a shorter area could lead to better results. The best solutions, which are capable of promoting beach accretion, implicate the lengthening of the terminal groin at the northern extremity of the beach. The results from this study can support decision makers in identifying the most appropriate management action, not just locally but also at other coastal regions where similar problems persist and the same methodology could be applied. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Typhoons play an important role in beach evolution. The storm surge and large waves caused by typhoons can cause significant changes in beach morphology in a short period of time. The mechanism of beach evolution and profile changes during typhoons is significantly different from that under non-typhoon dynamic conditions. The XBeach numerical model provides an effective tool for predicting the response of sandy coasts to typhoons. This study is based on field-collected long-term beach profile elevations and grain size data, which were used to establish a two-dimensional XBeach model for simulating the morphological evolution of Cudao Island Beach under Typhoon Lekima. The GSA (Generalized Sensitivity Analysis) method was used to determine the sensitivity order of several important parameters in this modeling. Four different moments of wave height variation were selected during the typhoon process to analyze and study beach evolution. The results show that Chudao South Beach is always in a state of erosion during the typhoon period. The wave water increase is apparent in the nearshore wave-breaking area. The beach shoulder in the northeastern part of the beach is short, and the profile, with a short length, responds quickly to the typhoon. The eroded sediment is mainly deposited in the lower part of the intertidal zone or even transported outside of the wave-breaking zone, and a small part is transported to the shore and deposited in the high-tide zone. The continuous sediment transport along the coast of Chudao Beach is an important factor that influenced the evolution of each profile during Typhoon Lekima. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This document is a correction notice for an article titled "Spatio-Temporal Morphodynamics of a Nourished Sandy Shore Based on LiDAR Measurements." The correction addresses errors in the original publication, specifically inappropriate citations in the Discussion section. The correction provides the correct references and clarifies the phenomenon of heightened dune erosion in the area, attributing it to long, oblique depressions in the bottom topography. The correction also discusses the ongoing coastal protection efforts on the Hel Peninsula in Poland and the causes of erosion in the area. The authors state that the scientific conclusions of the article are unaffected by the correction. [Extracted from the article]

The compatibility of sediments in terms of grain size, composition and colour among beaches and strategic sediment deposits (SSD) along Western Sardinia (Western Mediterranean Sea) were assessed to explore management strategy in the protection and adaptation to counteract the beach erosion and the effect of sea level rise along sandy shores. Twelve beaches, mainly conditioned by geological control, due to the presence of extensive rocky outcrops in the sea, enclosed in seven sedimentary cells (defined by the continuity of sediment transport pathways and by identification of boundaries where there are discontinuities), were characterised in terms of sediment composition and grain size. One hundred ninety-three beach sediments and one hundred sediments from SSDs were collected and analysed for sediment grain size, carbonate content and sediment colour. The beach sediments are composed by gravel to fine sands (D50: from 81 µm to 4986 µm) with siliciclastic and biogenic carbonate sediments mixed in different proportions (0–100% in CaCO3). The SSDs sediments are gravels to medium-fine sand (D50: from 96 µm to 1769 µm) composed by biogenic carbonate sands mixed with siliciclastic grains (0–100% in CaCO3). To be able to evaluate the compatibility between the beaches and SSDs, a multivariate statistical procedure was applied to grain size dataset. Our results show that 8 beaches have strategic deposits of compatible grain size and composition, whereas only 2 beaches have compatible strategic deposits of both grain size and colour. This may be related to the different sediment sources and depositional processes of sediment along the coastal cells and the continental shelf. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Small uncrewed aerial systems (sUASs) provide an efficient way to reveal processes controlling the morphology of sandy shorelines so that they can be more effectively managed. One of Hawaiʻi's most popular tourist destinations, Waikīkī's Royal Hawaiian Beach, features patterns of sediment transport driven by trade-wind activity, seasonal wave conditions, tropical storm activity, and other phenomena that make it an effective laboratory for the study of beach morphology. To evaluate the efficacy of using consumer-grade sUASs to monitor subaerial sand volume and processes that drive beach morphodynamics, we conducted weekly aerial and ground surveys from which high-resolution point clouds, digital elevation models, and orthomosaics were generated through structure from motion (SfM) photogrammetry. Our period of observation (April to November 2018) bracketed the Central Pacific hurricane season and the season of elevated southerly swell. Both phenomena are known to significantly influence sediment transport in the study area. Using empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analysis, we described combinations of single and dual littoral cell behavior generated by both longshore sediment transport and abrupt episodic fluctuations in cross-shore transport. While past studies have investigated morphological change at this location, this unique single and dual cell behavior within the greater littoral system had not been previously revealed. This study demonstrates that sUASs are capable of capturing high-resolution spatial and temporal topographic data that allow for detailed evaluation of both seasonal processes and abrupt perturbations of beach systems. These processes drive significant changes in beach area, volume, and overall beach morphology and their understanding critical to effective management in an era of sea level rise-driven change. The employed methodology was designed to be highly efficient and universally applicable to sandy shorelines whilst also being relatively inexpensive and instrumentation readily available, allowing for a more comprehensive understanding of these unique coastal environments. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Although geologically constrained sandy beaches are ubiquitous along wave-exposed coasts, there is still a limited understanding of their morphological response, particularly under storm conditions, which is mainly due to a critical lack of nearshore bathymetry observations. This paper examines the potential to derive bathymetries from video imagery under challenging wave conditions in order to investigate headland control on morphological beach response. For this purpose, a video-based linear depth inversion algorithm is applied to three consecutive weeks of frames collected during daylight hours from a single fixed camera located at La Petite Chambre d'Amour beach (Anglet, SW France). Video-derived bathymetries are compared against in situ topo-bathymetric surveys carried out at the beginning and end of the field experiment in order to assess the performance of the bathymetric estimates. The results show that the rates of accretion/erosion within the surf zone are strongly influenced by the headland, whereas the beach morphological response can be classified into three main regimes depending on the angle of wave incidence θ p : (1) under deflection configuration ( θ p > 0 ° ), the alongshore sediment transport was trapped at the updrift side of the headland, promoting sand accretion. (2) Under shadowed configuration ( θ p < 0 ° ), the interruption of the longshore current drove a deficit of sand supply at the downdrift side of the headland, leading to an overall erosion in the surf zone. (3) Under shore-normal configuration ( θ p = 0 ° ), rip channels developed, and up-state beach transition was observed. A comparison between video-derived bathymetries and surveys shows an overall root mean square error (RMSE) around 0.49 to 0.57 m with a bias ranging between −0.36 and −0.29 m. The results show that video-derived bathymetries can provide new insight into the morphological change driven by storm events. The combination of such inferred bathymetry with video-derived surface current data is discussed, showing great potential to address the coupled morphodynamics system under time-varying wave conditions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal storm erosion can lead to episodic morphological changes and hinterland flooding that requires sustainable management. An accurate estimation of storm erosion can determine the success of hazard mitigation strategies. Two morphological models, Delft3D and XBeach, were applied separately to a stormy period with "Roller" and "No Roller" wave dynamics activated, to estimate erosion of the beach and dune system on the Sylt island. This is the first numerical impact assessment of roller dynamics on coastal erosion using the two models. The choice of model had more impact on the hydrodynamic and morphological predictions than the option to include or omit roller dynamics. Agreement between measured and simulated waves was higher in Delft3D (R2 > 0.90 and RMSE < 0.15 m) than XBeach. Storm erosion in both models had the highest sensitivity to the roller parameter Beta. Both models predicted a similar storm erosion pattern along the coast, albeit different magnitudes. It is found that Delft3D cannot produce comparable storm erosion to XBeach, when the roller dynamics and avalanching are considered. Delft3D is less sensitive to the roller dynamics than XBeach. Including roller dynamics in Delft3D increased storm erosion up to 31% and in XBeach decreased the erosion down to 58% in the nearshore area, while the erosion in the dune area increased up to 13% in Deflt3D and up to 97% in XBeach. Both models are skilled in simulating storm impact. For the simulation of a storm period with intermittent calm periods, it is suggested that applying a time-varying parameter setting for wave dynamics and sediment transport to capture storm erosion and post-storm beach recovery processes could improve results. Such a modelling approach may ultimately increase the accuracy of estimating storm erosion to support coastal management activities (e.g., sand nourishment volume). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Featured Application: The video monitoring system used in this study can be applied for monitoring coastal processes of erosion and recovery and thus can be useful in designing beach protection/prevention plans for damage by storm waves. Once a beach is eroded by storm waves, it is generally recovered under milder wave conditions. To prevent or reduce damage, it is therefore important to understand the characteristics of the site-specific recovery process. Here, we present the results, based on a data set from a video monitoring system and wave measurements, of the recovery process in a pocketed beach located inside a bay where the shoreline retreated harshly (~12 m, on average, of beach width) during Typhoon TAPAH (T1917) in September 2019. It took about 1.5 years for the beach to be recovered to the level before the typhoon. During this period, the erosion and accretion were repeated, with the pattern highly related to the wave power ( P w ); most of the erosion occurred when P w became greater than 30 kWatt/m, whereas the accretion prevailed when P w was no greater than 10 kWatt/m. The recovery pattern showed discrepancies between different parts of the beach. The erosion during storm events was most severe in the southern part, whereas the northern shoreline did not significantly change even during TAPAH (T1917). In contrast, the recovery process occurred almost equally at all locations. This discrepancy in the erosion/accretion process was likely due to human intervention, as a shadow zone was formed in the northern end due to the breakwaters, causing disequilibrium in the sediment transport gradient along the shore. The results in this study could be applied in designing the protection plans from severe wave attacks by effectively estimating the size of coastal structures and by correctly arranging the horizontal placement of such interventions or beach nourishment. Although the application of these results should be confined to this specific site, the method using wave energy parameters as criteria can be considered in other areas with similar environments, for future planning of beach protection. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

When erosion occurs, sand beaches cannot maintain sufficient sand width, foreshore slopes become steeper due to frequent erosion effects, and beaches are trapped in a vicious cycle of vulnerability due to incident waves. Accordingly, beach nourishment can be used as a countermeasure to simultaneously minimize environmental impacts. However, beach nourishment is not a permanent solution and requires periodic renourishment after several years. To address this problem, minimizing the period of renourishment is an economical alternative. In the present study, using the Tuvaluan coast with its cross-sectional gravel nourishment site, four different test cases were selected for the hydraulic model experiment aimed at discovering an effective nourishment strategy to determine effective alternative methods. Numerical simulations were performed to reproduce gravel nourishment; however, none of these models simultaneously simulated the sediment transport of gravel and sand. Thus, an artificial neural network, a deep learning model, was developed using hydraulic model experiments as training datasets to analyze the possibility of simultaneously accomplishing the sediment transport of sand and gravel and supplement the shortcomings of the numerical models. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The Polish government has made a decision to build a nuclear power plant (NPP) in the South Baltic coastal zone. This means that three major types of structures will be located in the nearshore: (1) breakwaters and a wharf where ships may dock to load and unload cargo (harbor), (2) seawalls protecting the shore against erosion and storm surge floods, and (3) an underwater piping system for cold water intake and heated water discharge. This study determines the dominant directions and rate of sediment transport for the coastline section in the vicinity of the projected Polish NPP (ca. 100,000 m3/year), as well as assesses current changes at this coastline location on the basis of field measurements and mathematical modeling. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The mechanisms that control estuarine sediment transport are complicated due to the interaction between riverine flows, tidal currents, waves, and wave-driven currents. In the past decade, severe seabed erosion and shoreline retreat along the sandy coast of western Taiwan have raised concerns regarding the sustainability of coastal structures. In this study, ADCPs (Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler) and turbidity meters were deployed at the mouth of the Zengwen river to obtain the time series and the spatial distribution of flow velocities and turbidity during the base flow and flood conditions. A nearshore circulation model, SHORECIRC, has been adapted into a hybrid finite-difference/finite-volume, TVD (Total Variation Diminishing)-type scheme and coupled with the wave-spectrum model Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN). Conventional finite-difference schemes often produce unphysical oscillations when modeling coastal processes with abrupt bathymetric changes at river mouths. In contrast, the TVD-type finite volume scheme allows for robust treatment of discontinuities through the shock-capturing mechanism. The model reproduces water levels, waves, currents observed at the mouth of the Zengwen River reasonably well. The simulated residual sediment transport patterns demonstrate that the transport process at the river mouth is dominated by the interaction of the bathymetry and wave-induced currents when the riverine discharge was kept in reservoirs. The offshore residual transport causes erosion at the northern part of the river mouth, and the onshore residual transport causes accretion in the ebb tidal shoals around the center of the river mouth. The simulated morphological evolution displays significant changes on shallower deltas. The location with significant sea bed changes is consistent with the spot in which severe erosion occurred in recent years. Further analysis of morphological evolution is also discussed to identify the role of coastal structures, for example, the extension of the newly constructed groins near the river mouth. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Artificial reefs are being implemented around the world for their multi-functions including coastal protection and environmental improvement. To better understand the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic roles of an artificial reef (AR) in beach protection, a series of experiments were conducted in a 50 m-long wave flume configured with a 1:10 sloping beach and a model AR (1.8 m long × 0.3 m high) with 0.2 m submergence depth. Five regular and five irregular wave conditions were generated on two types of beach profiles (with/without model AR) to study the cross-shore hydrodynamic and morphological evolution process. The influences of AR on the processes are concluded as follows: (1) AR significantly decreases the incident wave energy, and its dissipation effect differs for higher and lower harmonics under irregular wave climates; (2) AR changes the cross-shore patterns of hydrodynamic factors (significant wave height, wave skewness and asymmetry, and undertow), leading to the movement of shoaling and breaking zones; (3) the beach evolution is characterized by a sandbar and a scarp which respectively sit at a higher and lower location on the profile with AR than natural beach without AR; (4) the cross-shore morphological features indicate that AR can lead to beach state transformation toward reflective state; (5) the scarp retreat process can be described by a model where the scarp location depends linearly on the natural exponential of time with the fitting parameters determined by wave run-up reduced by AR. This study demonstrates cross-shore effects of AR as a beach protection structure that changes wave dynamics in surf and swash zone, reduces offshore sediment transport, and induces different morphological features. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Predicting the morphological changes of the backshore is vital for appropriate beach management because the backshore plays a significant role in the ecosystem and disaster prevention. In this study, a one-dimensional model was developed and applied to the Hasaki Coast in Japan to predict changes in backshore volume. The volume change was estimated from the difference between the aeolian sediment transport rates at the seaward and landward boundaries of the investigation area, considering the wind velocity and direction, sediment size, precipitation, and vegetation in the process. The model was calibrated and validated using the first and second halves of beach profile data obtained weekly at the Hasaki Coast over a 28-year period from 1987 to 2014. The validation suggests that the model can reasonably reproduce the cumulative volume change, which is the amount of volume change from the initial value, but it underestimates the time-varying fluctuations of the weekly averaged volume-change rate. This can be attributed to the presence of small-scale features, such as dense vegetation and wrack, which are not taken into account in the model. Although the model performance for the cumulative volume change was good, it overpredicted the values in the second half of the validation process. This can be attributed to the fact that the model is not able to predict reductions in the aeolian sediment transport rate caused by an increase in beach steepness. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Keywords: marine sediment; contaminated sediment management; coastal sediment transport; harbor siltation; dredging; water quality; coastal engineering; coastal defence system; mathematical modelling; engineering practice EN marine sediment contaminated sediment management coastal sediment transport harbor siltation dredging water quality coastal engineering coastal defence system mathematical modelling engineering practice 243 243 1 05/05/20 20200401 NES 200401 1. Indeed, estuarine, coastal, and harbor areas often undergo operations that temporarily increase sediment transport, e.g., to nourish beaches, to maintain navigation channels, and to remove contaminated sediment primarily to support their use. Marine sediment, contaminated sediment management, coastal sediment transport, harbor siltation, dredging, water quality, coastal engineering, coastal defence system, mathematical modelling, engineering practice. [Extracted from the article]

To relate hydrodynamic forcing and topographic response for a tide-dominated sandy beach, extensive field measurements were carried out in the intertidal zone. Hydrodynamics and beach topography were monitored during a total of 12 weeks at two different study sites: one with a featureless intertidal zone and one with intertidal bars. The results of both study sites indicate that the intertidal beach grows when wave steepness is small, whereas it erodes when wave steepness is large. Spring-neap variations in tidal current direction heavily distort this trend: strong spring tidal currents transport sediment away from the beach, resulting in enhanced erosion. Tide-induced beach volume changes are on the same order of magnitude as wave-induced changes. Besides waves and tides, the effect of variations in the amount of sediment supply is substantial, with enhanced accretion when the sediment supply is large. The effect of variations in sediment supply on the intertidal beach topography is subordinate to the effect of waves and tide, though. From this study, it is concluded that larger waves are primarily erosive, but they can also enhance the natural sediment supply. Furthermore, it is found that tidal currents can be equally important as waves in shaping the beach topography, especially during spring tide on macrotidal beaches. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Keywords: coastal region; surf zone; swash zone; beach erosion; hydrodynamics; morphodynamics; laboratory experiments; analytical and numerical modeling; statistical methods; climate changes The work by Albernaz et al. [[5]] deals with the current and wave induced sediment transport, which requires a suitable parameterization of the wave orbital velocities. Coastal region, surf zone, swash zone, beach erosion, hydrodynamics, morphodynamics, laboratory experiments, analytical and numerical modeling, statistical methods, climate changes. [Extracted from the article]

The evolution of different initial beach profiles towards the same final beach configuration is investigated based on large-scale experimental data. The same wave condition was performed three times, each time starting from a different initial profile morphology. The three different initial profiles are an intermediate energy profile with an offshore bar and a small swash berm, a plane profile and a low energy profile with a large berm. The three cases evolve towards the same final (equilibrium) profile determined by the same wave condition. This implies that the same wave condition generates different sediment transport patterns. Largest beach changes and differences in hydrodynamics occur in the beginning of the experimental cases, highlighting the coupling between morphology and hydrodynamics for beach evolution towards the same profile. The coupling between morphology and hydrodynamics that leads to the same final beach profile is associated with differences in sediment transport in the surf and swash zone, and is explained by the presence of bar and berm features. A large breaker bar and concave profile promote wave energy dissipation and reduce the magnitudes of the mean near-bed flow velocity close to the shoreline limiting shoreline erosion. In contrast, a beach profile with reflective features, such as a large berm and a small or no bar, increases negative velocity magnitudes at the berm toe promoting shoreline retreat. The findings are summarised in a conceptual model that describes how the beach changes towards equilibrium from two different initial morphologies. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A physical model test was carried out to evaluate a measure of reducing sediment transport in a condition of erosive wave incidence. The erosion trend was analyzed in a beach profile consisting of 0.1 mm sand, and a scenario in which 1 mm and 5 mm materials were applied to the erosion section was conducted. The effects of beach nourishment profiles with different sand diameters were verified by comparing the results when the submerged breakwater was installed. In addition, because high waves are usually accompanied with strong wind, to determine the wind effect, morphological change was examined under waves only and the coexistence of waves and wind together. The experimental results showed that sediment transport around the shoreline decreased in a condition of nourishment with 1 mm grains, and the total amount of morphological change was similar to the case in which the submerged breakwater was installed. The results illustrated that a change in wind velocity increased the wave energy density, as well as the range of morphological change. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Low-crested detached breakwaters (LCDBs) have been widely employed as a mitigation measure against beach erosion. However, only a few studies have assessed their performance in sea-breeze-dominated environments. This work investigates the beach morphodynamics behind LCDBs deployed on a micro-tidal sea-breeze-dominated beach. The study area, located in the northern Yucatán peninsula, is characterized by low-energy, high-angle waves, which drive a persistent (westward) alongshore sediment transport (O(104) m3/year). High-resolution real-time kinematics global positioning system (GPS) beach surveys were conducted over a one-year period (2017–2018) to investigate the performance of LCDBs at three sites. Moreover, unmanned aerial vehicle flights were employed to evaluate far-field shoreline stability. Field observations revealed a distinct behavior in the three study sites, dependent on the breakwaters' transmission characteristics, geometry, stability, and shoreline orientation. Impermeable LCDBs, made of sand-filled geosystems, induced significant beach accretion (erosion) in up-(down-)drift areas. On the other hand, permeable LCDBs, made of Reef Ball™ modules, induced moderate beach changes and small erosion in down-drift areas owing to higher transmission coefficients. Measurements of LCDBs' freeboard height show that sand-filled geosystems' breakwaters presented a significant loss of sand during the study period, which explains the unexpected beach morphodynamic response on the lee side of the structure. Observations suggest that the study area is highly sensitive to the presence of LCDBs with low transmissivity. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Alongshore sediment bypassing rocky headlands remains understudied despite the importance of characterizing littoral processes for erosion abatement, beach management, and climate change adaptation. To address this gap, a numerical model sediment transport study was developed to identify controlling factors and mechanisms for sediment headland bypassing potential. Four idealized headlands were designed to investigate sediment flux around the headlands using the process-based hydrodynamic model Delft-3D and spectral wave model SWAN. The 120 simulations explored morphologies, substrate compositions, sediment grain sizes, and physical forcings (i.e., tides, currents, and waves) commonly observed in natural settings. A generalized analytical framework based on flow disruption and sediment volume was used to refine which factors and conditions were more useful to address sediment bypassing. A bypassing parameter was developed for alongshore sediment flux between upstream and downstream cross-shore transects to determine the degree of blockage by a headland. The shape of the headland heavily influenced the fate of the sediment by changing the local angle between the shore and the incident waves, with oblique large waves generating the most flux. All headlands may allow sediment flux, although larger ones blocked sediment more effectively, promoting their ability to be littoral cell boundaries. The controlling factors on sediment bypassing were determined to be wave angle, size, and shape of the headland, and sediment grain size. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]