Search

Less, D.F.S.; Ward, N.D.; Richey, J.E., and Da Cunha, A.C., 2021. Seasonal and daily variation of hydrodynamic conditions in the Amazon River Mouth: Influence of discharge and tide on flow velocity. Journal of Coastal Research, 37(6), 1181–1192. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Hydrodynamics characteristics control various biogeochemical processes related to the phenomena of transport of particulate materials, biogeochemical components, and greenhouse emissions; however, the hydrodynamic conditions in the North Channel of the Amazon River Mouth is relatively little understood. The seasonal and tidal variability of hydrodynamic characteristics in the North Channel of the Amazon River Mouth were investigated using an acoustic measurement technique. The measurements of discharge (Q), water velocity (U), and water level (h) were performed during a semidiurnal tidal cycle in a 12 km wide transect during four hydrological seasons. The hydrodynamics are mainly controlled by the river discharge, being directly related to the rain pattern with a well-defined time lapse for the Amazon Basin. The amplitude of the tides, the mean discharge, and the velocity of the natural flow presented during high discharge season were 3 m, 12,423 m3 s–1 and 1.18 m s–1, respectively. The analyses of tidal effects showed a phase opposition between the water level, river discharge, and water velocity; the water velocity was ∼42% higher during the ebb tide with a duration ∼1 hour and 30 minutes longer than the flood phase. The U and h are inversely proportional (R = –0.72, p < 0.01); significant variations in velocity throughout the tidal cycle are associated with the highest values observed at ebb tide, when the velocity and level of the water are significantly influenced by both diurnal and seasonal components. Thus, the results can contribute to the evaluations of more detailed potential interactions of the advective processes, such as mixing and dilution of passive agents of the natural flow, which are very poorly recorded in the existing literature. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Morales, J.A.; Sedrati, M.; Boulmirate, O.; Borrego, J., and Carro, B.M., 2020. Measuring dimensions of ship-generated waves in Guadalquivir Estuary banks (SW Spain): Hydrodynamic considerations. In: Malvárez, G. and Navas, F. (eds.), Global Coastal Issues of 2020. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 95, pp. 568–572. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Estuaries have always been very important to communities, as they often represent the economic centers of many countries. The estuarine banks, as fetch-limited environments, might be highly affected by some anthropogenic actions. Ship-generated waves are starting to be the subject of several studies in order to understand their impact on coastal environments. These waves might be the leading factor to erosion in estuarine channel margins when traffic is frequent. Guadalquivir is one of the most important estuaries in Spain. It connects an important number of commercial ships to the port of Seville. Along the estuary, bank erosion is highly pronounced which is starting to worry both, landowners and ecologists, since a part of the estuarine channel crosses the marine sector of Doñana natural park. Last years, port of Seville intended to dredge the channel to get the entrance of bigger ships to the port. Ecologists argue that the magnitude of the waves generated by the ships is proportional to the size of the ship. So, the entrance of bigger ships will increase the erosion along the margins. The aim of this paper, is to obtain preliminary data to verify the relevance of this theory through a hydrodynamic survey using wave gauges on the banks and an ADCP in the bottom of the channel to control the modification of waves and currents caused by the ships. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Suzuki, T. and Cox, D.T., 2019. Statistical analysis of longshore currents on a barred beach. Journal of Coastal Research, 35(6), 1215–1224. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Longshore currents were observed using a horizontally mounted acoustic Doppler current profiler in the nearshore on a dissipative barred beach. The data were taken for 20 days from 13 May to 2 June 2016. Wave, current, water level, and wind data were continuously observed. From a statistical point of view, the exceedance probability/occurrence ratio of higher currents is important. Therefore, in this research, the hourly data were used to investigate the spatial and wave-energetic distributions of exceedance probability of the longshore currents. Moreover, the effect of tidal range on this exceedance probability is discussed. From the analysis, the exceedance probabilities of longshore currents were well predicted by the Weibull distribution, with parameters estimated using the normalized wave energy flux, relative surf-zone location, and normalized water depth. The exceedance probability of the longshore current was largely affected by water level (tidal elevation): during high tide it was the same or lower than that of the full data set. However, the exceedance probability was approximately two times larger during low tide than that using the full data set. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Jeong, S.-H.; Kwon, J.H., and Lee, J., 2023. Analysis of rip current flow fields in CCTV images using optimal LSPIV parameters. In: Lee, J.L.; Lee, H.; Min, B.I.; Chang, J.-I.; Cho, G.T.; Yoon, J.-S., and Lee, J. (eds.), Multidisciplinary Approaches to Coastal and Marine Management. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 116, pp. 240-244. Charlotte (North Carolina), ISSN 0749-0208. Research on rip currents can be conducted through indoor studies with numerical simulation tests or by studies that analyze data by installing instruments in the actual ocean. For flow field studies using measuring instruments, data are collected by installing an Acoustic Wave Current Measurement (AWAC) or Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP). It is not appropriate in terms of effectiveness, cost, and accuracy to analyze data obtained in a specific area by applying it to the entire flow field. In this study, the applicability and limitations of the Large Scale Particle Image Velocimetry (LSPIV) technique were derived for Closed-circuit Television (CCTV) images of rip currents in Haeundae by applying the optimal velocity calculation parameters. For LSPIV analysis, the tilted CCTV image was tilt-corrected using 208 GCPs and Affine Transformation and stabilized using feature points. The flow rate calculated with 18 parameters by combining 6 interrogation areas and 3 searching areas was compared with the average flow rate of the normal distribution confidence interval. As the size of the parameter changes, the error rate changes along with its characteristics. Compared to the average flow rate, three parameters with errors within 2% were determined as LSPIV flow rate calculation parameters. The flow velocities calculated with the determined parameters were 0.196 m/sec, 0.205 m/sec, and 0.207 m/sec within a maximum range of 5.31%. In addition, it was found that the flow velocity increased, and the error decreased as the size of the interrogation area increased. The LSPIV velocity vector overlapped with the rip current's foam image in the tilt-corrected CCTV image to confirm the degree of matching. In the future, if several high-resolution CCTVs are used and stereo image-based object detection and 3D location tracking algorithms are applied to the analysis area, it can be a good alternative as a direct measurement analysis verification method of marine data. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Dong, D.; Zhu, D.; Ya, H.; Chen, X., and Chen, B., 2019. Typhoon-driven storm jet generation and water level fluctuations near the coast of Guangxi. In: Guido-Aldana, P.A. and Mulahasan, S. (eds.), Advances in Water Resources and Exploration. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 93, pp. 427–435. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Using acoustic Doppler current profiler data from a single station for one year in duration, as well as associated tide level and wind field observational data, the corresponding relationship between westward storm jets and water level fluctuation near the coast of Guangxi during Typhoon Nesat in 2011 is studied. The primary causes of the formation of the westward storm jets near the coast of Guangxi during the typhoon are analyzed. The results show that during the landfall of the typhoon, the surface and bottom current velocities were more than doubled compared to conditions without the typhoon. The maximum residual current speed was more than tripled compared to the normal situation. It is very rare to observe such strong westward storm jets less than 1 km offshore. The generation of strong westward storm jets and water level fluctuation were closely related to the typhoon. Systematic study on the theories of deformation, intensification, and decay of storm jets after the jets entered the coastal bay of Guangxi during the typhoon is of theoretical and practical significance for revealing the characteristics of Guangxi nearshore pollutant transport. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Using acoustic Doppler current profiler data from a single station for one year in duration, as well as associated tide level and wind field observational data, the corresponding relationship between westward storm jets and water level fluctuation near the coast of Guangxi during Typhoon Nesat in 2011 is studied. The primary causes of the formation of the westward storm jets near the coast of Guangxi during the typhoon are analyzed. The results show that during the landfall of the typhoon, the surface and bottom current velocities were more than doubled compared to conditions without the typhoon. The maximum residual current speed was more than tripled compared to the normal situation. It is very rare to observe such strong westward storm jets less than 1 km offshore. The generation of strong westward storm jets and water level fluctuation were closely related to the typhoon. Systematic study on the theories of deformation, intensification, and decay of storm jets after the jets entered the coastal bay of Guangxi during the typhoon is of theoretical and practical significance for revealing the characteristics of Guangxi nearshore pollutant transport. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Xiao, K.; Li, H.; Song, D.; Chen, Y.; Wilson, A.M.; Shananan, M.; Li, G., and Huang, Y., 2019. Field measurements for investigating the dynamics of the tidal prism during a spring-neap tidal cycle in Jiaozhou Bay, China. Journal of Coastal Research, 35(2), 335–347. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. The tidal prism is a crucial environmental index for evaluating the water self-purification capacity in semi-enclosed bay systems, but quantitative studies linking spring-neap tidal variations are few. In this paper, field measurements of the tidal level and tidal flux were conducted in Jiaozhou Bay (JZB) to estimate the hydrodynamic and tidal prism variations during a spring-neap tidal cycle. JZB is located on the south coast of Shandong Peninsula, China, with a narrow inlet of 3.1 km width, which was accessible for continuous shipboard Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler measurements over 15 days. Unfortunately, due to the violent sea induced by typhoon "Chan-hom," the measurements were suspended for 2 days. However, the fluxes during the temporary suspension were reproduced using the significant linear relationship between the inlet fluxes and the changes in tidal level (r2 = 0.94, P < 0.001), without considering the storm surge. The relationship between tidal range and tidal prism was also linearly correlative (r2 = 0.69, P < 0.001), indicating that the tidal prism was primarily controlled by the tidal range in JZB. These linear relationships are well verified by historical data in JZB. Compared with previous studies in JZB, the tidal prism has decreased 26% from 1928 to 2008. The decreased intertidal areas, caused by large-scale land reclamations, were likely responsible for the decrease in the tidal prism, which in turn weakened the self-purification capability and triggered the chronic pollutant enrichment. However, the tidal prism increased 4% from 2008 to 2015 as the restoration of water area through protective policies formulated by government. These findings will contribute to designing maintenance strategies for reducing human activity impacts on the health of JZB in the future. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

ABSTRACT Ko, D.H.; Park, J.-S., and Lee, K.-S., 2018. Assessment of tidal current energy potential at Uldolmok in the southwestern coast of Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1301–1305. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Quantitative assessment for the tidal current energy potential and marine conditions should be preceded to construct the optimal tidal energy farm. Assessment of tidal energy resource at Uldolmok which is the optimal candidate sites for tidal energy farm was carried out. In order to collect the field data, static survey using ADCP(Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler) was conducted and harmonic analysis was done to predict the annual tidal current. As a result, the dominant direction of ebb current was southeast and flood current was northwest. The maximum ebb current speed was about 4.09 m/s. While, annual power density was estimated as 56.78MWh/m2. 1MW(HS 1000), 1.2MW(MCT 1200), 1.5MW(AR 1500), 2MW(SeaGen-S 2000) that were commercially available turbines in the world were used to calculate the annual energy production. SeaGen-S was possible to produce the highest annual energy production up to 9,338.4MWh. These results can be used to establish a plan for the development of the tidal current energy farm. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

ABSTRACT Ha, H.K.; Seo, J.Y.; Jung, Y.H.; Ha. H.J.; Kim, S.B.; Kang, J.W.; Kim, Y.H., and Ryu, J., 2018. Dynamics of sediment resuspension in the inner harbor under different forcing conditions: A case study of Ulsan, Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 451–455. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Bottom mooring data of currents and backscatter strength derived from a 1200-kHz acoustic Doppler current profiler were collected in the inner Onsan Harbor, Ulsan during the summer season (July 5 to August 5, 2016). The mean volume backscattering strength (MVBS), which is a proxy of suspended sediment concentration (SSC), continued to exhibit distinct signatures of sediment erosion (or resuspension) under different forcing conditions such as tides, winds, and precipitation. Results exhibit the different patterns of sediment resuspension between spring and neap tides. During spring tide, the extensive tidal forcing provided a favorable condition to resuspend sediments trapped near the bed. The MVBS with high SSC was consistently recorded. During neap tide, on the other hand, the MVBS with high SSC was intermittently recorded, which was related to the strong wind events. While the flow was being intensified by winds, the short-lasting (2–4 hours) sharp spikes of MVBS were observed. The stratification developed by increased precipitation might cause to block the upward transport of sediments near the bed, even though the strong winds (>13.6 m s−1) lasted over 4 days. These outcomes could give insight into the complexity of hydrodynamics and sediment transport occurring in the harbor where various natural and artificial forcings are combined. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Moh, T.; Cho, J.H.; Jung, S.-K.; Kim, S.-H., and Son, Y.B., 2018. Monitoring of the Changjiang River plume in the East China Sea using a wave glider. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 26–30. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Most water from the Changjiang River discharges into the East China Sea (ECS), and affects the sea's oceanographic environment, even near Jeju Island, Korea. However, most research conducted using vessels, buoys, and satellite systems has a limited capacity for continuous direct measurement over a wide area. To overcome these spatial and temporal limitations, an autonomous wave-powered glider equipped with a fluorometer, a conductivity-temperature-depth, and an acoustic Doppler current profiler was deployed. Over 34 days from August 19 to September 22 in 2016, the wave glider navigated 985 km in the ECS near Jeju Island, and sensed 34,500 continuous water columns every minute. The glider transmitted the data via the Iridium satellite communication system, even under severe weather conditions. The wave glider detected low salinity and high turbidity of the surface water southwest of Jeju Island. Comparison of the surface turbidity and back-scattered echo intensity revealed that the surface turbid water migrated from west to south of Jeju Island. It descended slightly through chaning of the mixed layer depth. The observations from this study suggest that wave gliders can provide reliable sensing and maneuvering capabilities for monitoring of the Changjiang River plume in the ECS. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Fang, J.Y.; Chen, Y.P.; Yao, P., and Su, M., 2016. Effective Roughness Height in High-Concentrated Flows. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 33-37. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. The effective roughness height is an important parameter in coastal sediment transport models. It has been extensively investigated in the past but few research results are related to the high-concentrated flows which often occur in a silty coast. A series of experiments has been carried out in a wave-current flume with silt-sized sediment bed. The mean velocity profiles were measured under different combined wave-current conditions. The effective roughness heights were calculated based on the curve fitting of measured velocity profiles by following the velocity profile model of You (1994). The accuracy of three empirical models, namely, Grant and Madsen (1982), Li and Amos (1998) and You (1996) was examined with the 'measured' effective roughness heights. The results show that all the models are not much accurate for the high-concentrated flows, particularly in the case with a relatively small sediment size. Therefore, cautions should be taken when applying those models in the silty coast, particularly during the extreme events. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Chevalier; C.; Devenon, J.-L.; Rougier, G., and Blanchot, J., 2015. Hydrodynamics of the Toliara reef lagoon (Madagascar): Example of a lagoon influenced by waves and tides. In meso-tidal lagoons, the coral reef barrier can be temporarily submerged at high tide and partially exposed at low tide, which causes highly specific lagoon dynamics. To understand those dynamics, three field-measurement campaigns were conducted in the Toliara Lagoon (Madagascar), where the tide and the waves increase that effect. The method combined measurements taken from fixed moorings and measurements from a small, moving, inflatable boat along the transects through the reef passages. A tidal analysis methodology adapted to this lagoon was used to reconstitute the currents through the passages and to determine the spatial and temporal current variability. Then, the lagoon water dynamics were studied. The tidal dynamics of the lagoon appear to depend significantly on flows through the passages, although they were also affected by water passing across the reef. Water entered the lagoon through the passages during the tidal flow and left it during the ebb. The tidal-prism flushing time (estimated using the tidal prism method) was 1 day during spring tide and 5 days during neap tide. At the same time, the average flow during a tidal cycle appears to be directly linked to the waves breaking over the reef. Indeed, the average cross-reef flow was inflowing and was mainly driven by the ocean swell. That inflow was balanced by an outflow through the passages. Hence, the average bulk flushing time was estimated at 13 days during the wet season and 4 days during the dry season. Dans les lagons méso-tidaux, la barrière de corail peut être alternativement immergée à marée haute et quasiment émergée à marée basse ce qui entraîne une dynamique des masses d'eau tout à fait particulière. Pour comprendre cette dynamique, 3 campagnes de terrain ont été réalisée dans le lagon de Tuléar. L'approche expérimentale combine à la fois des mesures en mouillages et des mesures lors de transects réalisés à partir d'une petite embarcation. A partir de ces mesures et grâce à une méthode spécifique d'analyse de données, nous reconstituons les courants dans les passes et obtenons leur variabilité spatiale et temporelle. Nous étudions alors la dynamique du lagon. L'eau entre dans le lagon par les passes durant le flot et en sort durant le jusant. Cette dynamique est toutefois modulée par les courants au-dessus du récif barrière En effet, ces courants qui dépendent à la fois de la marée, mais aussi de la houle déferlant au-dessus du récif, peuvent engendrer des distorsions dans les ellipses de marée au voisinage du récif, générés une onde quart-diurne au sein du lagon. Enfin, alors que la dynamique tidale du lagon semble fortement dépendre du flux au niveau des passes, les flux moyennés sur un cycle de marée dépendent plus particulièrement du flux moyen au-dessus de la barrière et semblent directement lié à la houle déferlant le long du récif : le flux cross-récifal moyen est entrant et son intensité varie en fonction de la houle au large. Cet apport est compensé par un flux sortant au niveau des passes. Ainsi, le temps de résidence moyen est de 13 jours en saison humide et 4 jours en saison sèche. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Dong, D.; Zhu, D.; Ya, H.; Chen, X., and Chen, B., 2019. Typhoon-driven storm jet generation and water level fluctuations near the coast of Guangxi. In: Guido-Aldana, P.A. and Mulahasan, S. (eds.), Advances in Water Resources and Exploration. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 93, pp. 427–435. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Using acoustic Doppler current profiler data from a single station for one year in duration, as well as associated tide level and wind field observational data, the corresponding relationship between westward storm jets and water level fluctuation near the coast of Guangxi during Typhoon Nesat in 2011 is studied. The primary causes of the formation of the westward storm jets near the coast of Guangxi during the typhoon are analyzed. The results show that during the landfall of the typhoon, the surface and bottom current velocities were more than doubled compared to conditions without the typhoon. The maximum residual current speed was more than tripled compared to the normal situation. It is very rare to observe such strong westward storm jets less than 1 km offshore. The generation of strong westward storm jets and water level fluctuation were closely related to the typhoon. Systematic study on the theories of deformation, intensification, and decay of storm jets after the jets entered the coastal bay of Guangxi during the typhoon is of theoretical and practical significance for revealing the characteristics of Guangxi nearshore pollutant transport. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Gonçalves, M.; Rusu, E., and Guedes Soares, C., 2015. Evaluation of two spectral wave models in coastal areas. The objective of the present work is to evaluate two wave models, SWAN and STWAVE, considering various coastal areas with different bathymetric features. Although both models are based on the spectrum concept and integrate the action balance equation over the computational domain using rectangular grids, there are also fundamental differences between them induced by the propagation schemes implemented and also by the different formulations considered for the basic source terms. The two models are evaluated in four coastal areas, three of them belonging to the Portuguese continental coastal environment and the other one located in the nearshore of Sardinia Island. The bathymetric characteristics of the computational domains considered are rather different. Two of them have smooth contours, another is characterized by very high bathymetric gradients, and finally the last one includes a harbor area. Comparisons of the models' predictions against measurements were carried out in both intermediate and very shallow water. Besides these, comparisons between the two models as regards the field distributions of the main wave parameters were also performed. The results of the work show that SWAN is a more complex model that can be better calibrated and adapted for a specific site, especially due to the multitude of options available. On the other hand, STWAVE is simpler, more robust, and quicker and can be used effectively in various coastal environments. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Lippmann, T. C., J. Irish, and Hunt, J., 2013. Observations of the vertical structure of tidal currents in two inlets. Observations of the vertical structure of broad band tidal currents were obtained at two energetic inlets. Each experiment took place over a 4 week period, the first at Hampton Inlet in southeastern New Hampshire, USA, in the Fall of 2011, and the second at New River Inlet in southern North Carolina, USA, in the spring of 2012. The temporal variation and vertical structure of the currents were observed at each site with 600 kHz and 1200 kHz RDI Acoustic Doppler Current Profilers (ADCP) deployed on low-profile bottom tripods in 7.5 and 12.5 m water depths near the entrance to Hampton Inlet, and in 8 and 9 m water depth within and outside New River Inlet, respectively. In addition, a Nortek Aquapro ADCP was mounted on a jetted pipe in about 2.5 m water depth on the flank of the each inlet channel. Flows within the Hampton/Seabrook Inlet were dominated by semi-diurnal tides ranging 2.5 - 4 m in elevation, with velocities exceeding 2.5 m/s. Flows within New River inlet were also semi-diurnal with tides ranging about 1 - 1.5 m in elevation and with velocities exceeding 1.5 m/s. Vertical variation in the flow structure at the dominant tidal frequency are examined as a function of location within and near the inlet. Outside the inlet, velocities vary strongly over the vertical, with a nearly linear decay from the surface to near the bottom. The coherence between the upper most velocity bin and the successively vertically separated bins drops off quickly with depth, with as much as 50% coherence decay over the water column. The phase relative to the uppermost velocity bin shifts over depth, with as much as 40 deg phase lag over the vertical, with bottom velocities leading the surface. Offshore, rotary coefficients indicate a stable ellipse orientation with rotational directions consistent over the vertical. At Hampton, the shallower ADCP, but still outside the inlet, shows a rotational structure that changes sign in the vertical indicating a sense of rotation at the bottom that is opposite to that at the surface. Within the inlet, the flow is more aligned with the channel, the decay in amplitude over the vertical is diminished, the coherence and phase structure is nearly uniform, and the rotary coefficients indicate no sense of rotation in the flow. The observations are qualitatively consistent with behavior described by Prandle (1982) for shallow water tidal flows. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Gu, B.-H.; Woo, S.-B., and Kim, S., 2021. Optimization of influencing factors in tidal current data assimilation modeling in macro tidal estuary, Gyeonggi Bay, South Korea. In: Lee, J.L.; Suh, K.-S.; Lee, B.; Shin, S., and Lee, J. (eds.), Crisis and Integrated Management for Coastal and Marine Safety. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 114, pp. 66–70. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. The study investigates the effect of the model prediction accuracy improvement using data assimilation technique in macro-tidal estuary, such as the Gyeonggi Bay (GGB), South Korea. The observation data used in this study is a tidal current measurement from Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) mooring device. GGB is located at the middle west coast of South Korea, and it is semi-closed estuary that has a tidal range over 6.8 m. To take the irregularity of coastline into account, this study utilized the Finite Volume Coastal Ocean Model (FVCOM), which has the flexible advantage of grid resolution by using unstructured triangular grid system. When applying data assimilation into the coastal model, various parameters, such as scaling factors and correlation lengths are needed to be adjusted to find out the best performance. Total 25 cases used in Taylor diagram showed that different influencing factors are required to be optimized at each observation location. It means that parameters in data assimilation depend on the physical dynamic system via complicated geometry. The optimized parameters not only increase by the tidal range but also it is offset by the effect of river discharge. The horizontal influence range of data assimilation with all observed locations becomes even less than the result applying only one location. It is estimated that the phenomena occurred due to strong tidal currents and interference between the range of influence. The sensitivity of data assimilation parameters in tidally dominated coastal area indicates that a systematic way of choosing the most optimized site-specific parameters are required in macro tidal area. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article presents a short history of collective experiences conducting research and designing-monitoring salt marsh restorations in the Bay of Fundy, Canada. Topics discussed include description of the Bay of Fundy, the challenge in fieldwork in the Bay of Fundy, and the opportunity offered in working the Bay of Fundy.

Billson, O.J.; Russell, P.; Davidson, M.; Poate, T.; Amoudry, L.O., and Williams, M.E., 2020. In-situ observations of infragravity response during extreme storms on sand and gravel beaches. Global Coastal Issues of 2020. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 95, pp. 382–386. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Infragravity waves (frequency = 0.005 – 0.05 Hz) play a key role in coastal storm impacts such as flooding and beach/dune erosion. They are known to dominate the inner surf zone on low-sloping sandy beaches during storms. However, in large wave conditions, their importance on different beach types, of variable swell and wind-waves dominance, is largely unknown. Here, a new dataset is presented comprising in-situ observations during storm wave conditions (significant wave height of 3.3 m, peak periods of 18 s and return periods up to 1 in 60 years) from two contrasting sites: a low-sloping sandy beach and a steep gravel beach. Wave measurements were collected seaward of the breakpoint by wave buoys and bed-mounted acoustic Doppler current profilers, and through the surf zone using arrays of pressure transducers. Wave spectra showed contrasting evolution from the shoaling zone to the inner surf zone at the two sites. At the sandy beach, gravity band energy dissipated gradually as depth reduced, while infragravity band energy simultaneously increased, resulting in strongly infragravity-dominated wave spectra in the inner surf zone. At the steep gravel site, a rapid drop in short wave energy was observed, with limited growth of infragravity energy so that inner surf zone spectra showed a low energy peak in the infragravity band. The normalized bed slope parameter indicated whether infragravity waves were generated by bound long wave release or breakpoint forcing, showing that the former (latter) was dominant on the sandy (gravel) beach. In spite of these differences, the shoreline wave spectra under storm wave conditions were infragravity-dominated on both the sandy and gravel beaches. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]