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ABSTRACT Kim, M.; Lim, H.S.; Do, J.-D.; Kim, S.-S.; Lee, H.J., and Shim, J.-S., 2018. Variations of nearshore currents induced by seasonal waves in Haeundae. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1551–1555. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Haeundae, located on the southeastern coast of the Korean Peninsula, is a famous sand beach with a 1.6 km long, 70 m wide coastline. It suffers from wave-induced beach erosion in both summer and winter. For beach restoration, the Korean government has conducted beach nourishment (620,000 m3), and installed submerged breakwaters at both ends of the beach. Despite these efforts, the beach is still vulnerable to erosion caused by high waves. To understand beach erosion processes and sediment transport mechanisms, the government initiated an R&D project for the development of coastal erosion control technology since 2013. As part of the project, we have measured over three years of AWAC measurements at a water depth of 22 m and 1.8 km from the beach. Intensive measurements of wave, current, sediment transport near the surf-zone in summer and winter have been made using AWAC, VECTOR, and ADV with OBS. Analyses of nearshore currents induced by seasonal waves in the surf-zone have shown that cross-shore currents in summer are mainly induced by strong waves from the SSW or S that propagate to the beach due to wave breaking and shoaling effects on the reef near the beach. However, longshore currents in winter are induced by high waves from the E or ESE that propagate to the shoreline by diffraction at the east coastline. Eroded sand in summer returns along the beach by cross-shore and weak longshore currents induced by waves from the SSW or S. However, suspended sand in winter is moved to the west by strong longshore currents induced by waves from the E or ESE. Due to its pocket beach shape, beach erosion and sediment transport are caused by variations of nearshore currents induced by seasonal waves. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Lim, H.S.; Kim, M.; Do, J.-D.; Kim, S.-S.; Lee, H.J., and Kim, D.H., 2018. Variation of nearshore currents induced by seasonal waves in Haeundae. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 686–690. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Wave-induced currents at Anmok, located on the eastern coast of the Korean Peninsula, are one of the main causes of beach erosion related to high waves. Coastline changes induced by beach erosion and deposition are predominantly caused by sediment transport in the surf zone. This sediment transport is generated by wave-induced currents and depends on the wave height and direction. To understand beach erosion processes and the sediment transport mechanisms, field measurements of beach elevation and water depth were conducted for one month in winter 2015–2016. Using AWAC, ADP, VECTOR, and Aquadopp Profiler with OBS, intensive observations were made of waves, currents, and sediment transport in the surf zone. Wave and current variations were simultaneously analyzed at a water depth of approximately 18 m (W1) using long-term deployed AWAC data. Wave statistical analysis at station W1 shows that high waves from the NNE and NE are dominant in winter due to strong northeasterly winds from the NE. However, in summer, high waves coming from the NE and ENE are prevalent due to seasonal winds from the E and SE. By analyzing currents observed in the surf zone with waves, we found that a cross-shore current is generated by high waves, predominantly in winter, with incoming waves normal to the shoreline. Following the direction of incoming waves, longshore currents are separated into SE or NW directions depending on high waves come from the NNE or ENE, respectively. The variations of wave-induced currents caused by incoming wave height and direction accounts for the observed beach erosion and sediment transport, which in turn leads to beach cusp formation and crescentic sand bar migration during high wave periods. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Macrotidal beaches are scattered in the west coast of Korea mostly in small embayments of the ria-type coastline and islands. In contrast to well-known tidal flats, these beaches have been little studied from the hydromorphologic viewpoint. Byunsan Beach was chosen to investigate beach processes affected by winter monsoon, which creates strong waves and wind-generated currents. The multiyear (2005-2008) profiling of the beach, together with the intensive sampling of surface sediments, provided the details of morphologic characteristics of the beach. Deep water winter wave characteristics were based on the measurements of an offshore buoy. A benthic tripod was deployed on the beach to observe waves, currents, and suspended sediments during a winter storm. The estimated morphodynamic parameters suggest that Byunsan Beach be classified as an ultradissipative state during winter. The tendency of grain size toward systematically fining seaward could be explained by the lateral displacements across the beach of swash and surf zones owing to a high tidal range. In addition, the tripod observations show that a storm readily generated offshore return flows capable of considerable beach erosion. The storm waves also significantly contributed to the erosion. This may reflect that the macrotidal, open beaches in the west coast of Korea are seasonally susceptible to pronounced erosion by winter monsoon. The results of this study may be useful for evaluating man-made environmental impacts caused largely by seawalls and dykes on the natural beach state intrinsic to the west coast of Korea. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]