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Objective In hair care cosmetic products’ evaluation, one commonly used method is to evaluate the hair appearance as a gold standard in order to determine the effect of an active ingredient on the final state of the hair via visual appreciation. Although other techniques have been proposed for a direct analysis of the hair fibres, they give only surface or structural information, without any accurate molecular information. A different approach based on confocal Raman spectroscopy has been proposed for tracking in situ the molecular change in the keratin directly in the human hair fibres. It presents a high molecular specificity to detect chemical interactions between molecules and can provide molecular information at various depths at the cortex and cuticle levels. Methods To evaluate the potential of confocal Raman spectroscopy in testing the efficiency of cosmetic ingredients on keratin structure, we undertook a pilot study on the effectiveness of a smoothing shampoo on natural human hair, by analysing α‐helix and β‐sheet spectral markers in the Amide I band and spectral markers specific to the cystin sulfur content. Results We confirmed that an active proved to be effective on a gold standard decreases α‐helix keratin conformation and promotes β‐sheet keratin conformation in the hair fibres. We also showed that treatment with the effective active decreases the intensity of covalent disulfide (S–S at 510 cm‐1) cross‐linking bands of cysteine. These data confirm that the effective active also acts on the tertiary structure of keratin. Conclusion From these experiments, we concluded that the effective active has a smoothing effect on the human hair fibres by acting on α‐helix and β‐sheet keratin conformation and on the tertiary structure of keratin. Based on these results, confocal Raman spectroscopy can be considered a powerful technique for investigating the influence of hair cosmetic ingredients on keratin structure in human hair fibres. Moreover, this analytical technique has the advantage of being non‐destructive and label free; in addition, it does not require sample extraction or purification and it can be applied routinely in cosmetic laboratories., Confocal Raman spectroscopy can be considered as a powerful technique for investigating the influence of hair cosmetic ingredients on keratin structure in human hair fibres.

Skin is one of the most important organs of the human body because of its characteristics and functions. There are many alterations, either pathological or physiological, that can disturb its functioning. However, at present all methods used to investigate skin diseases, non-invasive or invasive, are based on clinical examinations by physicians. Thus, diagnosis, prognosis and therapeutic management rely on the expertise of the practitioner, the quality of the method and the accessibility of distinctive morphological characteristics of each lesion. To overcome the high sensitivity of these parameters, techniques based on more objective criteria must be explored. Vibrational spectroscopy has become as a key technique for tissue analysis in the biomedical research field. Based on a non-destructive light/matter interaction, this tool provides information about specific molecular structure and composition of the analyzed sample, thus relating to its precise physiopathological state and permitting to distinguish lesional from normal tissues. This label-free optical method can be performed directly on the paraffin-embedded tissue sections without chemical dewaxing. In this study, the potential of the infrared microspectroscopy, combined with data classification methods was demonstrated, to characterize at the tissular level different types of inflammatory skin lesions, and this independently from conventional histopathology.

International audience; This study evaluated the midterm delivery of doxorubicin in liver specimens from patients (N = 4) with hepatocellular carcinoma treated with drug-eluting embolic (DEE) transarterial chemoembolization. The patients had surgical resection 57, 79, 80 and 105 days after doxorubicin DEE chemoembolization. Doxorubicin concentrations inside embolic particles and in surrounding tissues were assessed by infrared microspectroscopy and microspectrofluorimetry, respectively. Embolic particles still contained doxorubicin and provided sustained drug delivery within targeted tissues 80 days after chemoembolization. Doxorubicin was undetectable after 105 days. In addition, aggregation of embolic particles inside vessel lumina was associated with slower doxorubicin elution and higher tissue concentrations when the number of aggregated embolic particles increased.

International audience; This paper presents a procedure that digitally neutralizes the contribution of paraffin to FTIR hyperspectral images. A brief mathematical derivation of the procedure is demonstrated and applied on one normal human colon sample to exemplify the de-waxing procedure. The proposed method includes construction of a paraffin model based on PCA, EMSC normalization and application of two techniques for spectral quality control. We discuss every step in which the researcher needs to take a subjective decision during the de-waxing procedure, and we explain how to make an adequate choice of parameters involved. Application of this procedure to 71 hyperspectral images collected from 55 human colon biopsies (20 normal, 17 ulcerative colitis, and 18 adenocarcinoma) showed that paraffin was appropriately neutralized, which made the de-waxed images adequate for analysis by pattern-recognition techniques such as k-means clustering or PCA-LDA.

Assessing the tumor invasiveness is a paramount diagnostic step to improve the patients care. Infrared spectroscopy access the chemical composition of samples; and in combination with statistical multivariate processing, presents the capacity to highlight subtle molecular alterations associated with malignancy development. Our investigation demonstrated that infrared signatures of cell lines presenting various invasiveness phenotypes contain discriminant spectral features, which are useful informative signals to implement an objective invasiveness scale. This last development reflects the interest of vibrational approach as a candidate biophotonic label-free technique, usable in routine clinics, to characterize quantitatively tumor aggressiveness. In addition, the methodology can reveal the heterogeneity of cancer cells, opening the way to further researches in cancer science.

International audience; Upon chronological aging, human skin undergoes structural and molecular modifications, especially at the level of type I collagen. This macromolecule is one of the main dermal structural proteins and presents several age-related alterations. It exhibits a triple helical structure and assembles itself to form fibrils and fibers. In addition, water plays an important role in stabilizing the collagen triple helix by forming hydrogen-bonds between collagen residues. However, the influence of water on changes of dermal collagen fiber orientation with age has not been yet understood. Polarized-Fourier Transform Infrared (P-FTIR) imaging is an interesting biophotonic approach to determine in situ the orientation of type I collagen fibers, as we have recently shown by comparing skin samples of different ages. In this work, P-FTIR spectral imaging was performed on skin samples from two age groups (35-and 38-year-old on the one hand, 60-and 66-year-old on the other hand), and our analyses were focused on the effect of H 2 O/D 2 O substitution. Spectral data were processed with fuzzy C-means (FCM) clustering in order to distinguish different orientations of collagen fibers. We demonstrated that the orientation was altered with aging, and that D 2 O treatment, affecting primarily highly bound water molecules, is more marked for the youngest skin samples. Collagen-bound water-related spectral markers were also highlighted. Our results suggest a weakening of water/collagen interactions with age. This non-destructive and label-free methodology allows us to understand better the importance of bound water in collagen fiber orientation alterations occurring with skin aging. Obtaining such structural information could find benefits in dermatology as well as in cosmetics. † Electronic supplementary information (ESI) available. See

International audience; During chronological skin aging, alterations in dermal structural proteins cause morphological modifications. Modifications are probably due to collagen fiber (type I collagen) rearrangement and reorientation with aging that have not been researched until now. FTIR microspectroscopy appears as an interesting method to study protein structure under normal and pathological conditions. Associated with a polarizer, this vibrational technique permits us to probe collagen orientation within skin tissue sections, by computing the ratio of integrated intensities of amide I and amide II bands. In this study, we used the polarized-FTIR imaging to evaluate molecular modifications of dermal collagen during chronological aging. The data processing of polarized infrared data revealed that type I collagen fibers become parallel to the skin surface in aged skin dermis. Our approach could find innovative applications in dermatology as well as in cosmetics.

Caffeine is utilised as a reference for permeation studies in dermatology and cosmetology. The present work aimed to monitor the permeation of a caffeine solution through the skin. For this purpose, Raman and infrared studies were performed. Raman microspectroscopy permitted a dynamic follow-up of the caffeine diffusion. In complementary, infrared microimaging provided information of the caffeine localization in the skin by applying multivariate statistical processing on skin tissue sections. Herein, we prove the possibility of tracking low concentrations of caffeine through the skin and we highlight some experimental limitations of vibrational spectroscopies.

The present paper provides a spectral comparison between abdominal human skin (Transkin) and pig ear skin using confocal Raman microspectroscopy at 660 nm. Pig ear skin is usually utilized as a substitute for human skin for active ingredients assessment in dermatological and cosmetics fields. Herein, the comparison is made at the level of the stratum corneum (SC), the SC/epidermis junction and the viable epidermis. The 660 nm excitation source appears to be the most appropriate wavelength for such skin characterization. From Raman signatures of both skin types, a tentative assignment of vibrations was performed in the fingerprint and the high wavenumber spectral regions. Significant differences were highlighted for lipid content in in-depth spectra and for hyaluronic acid (HA) and carotenoid in SC spectra. Marked tissular variability was also revealed by certain Raman vibrations. These intrinsic molecular data probed by confocal Raman microspectroscopy have to be considered for further applications such as cutaneous drug permeation.

This study aims to develop a new FT–IR spectral imaging of tumoral tissue permitting a better characterization of tumor heterogeneity and tumor/surrounding tissue interface. Infrared (IR) data were acquired on 13 biopsies of paraffin-embedded human skin carcinomas. Our approach relies on an innovative fuzzy C-means (FCM)-based clustering algorithm, allowing the automatic and simultaneous estimation of the optimal FCM parameters (number of clusters K and fuzziness index m). FCM seems more suitable than classical ‘hard’ clusterings, as it permits the assignment of each IR spectrum to every cluster with a specific membership value. This characteristic allows differentiating the nuances in the assignment of pixels, particularly those corresponding to tumoral tissue and those located at the tumor/peritumoral tissue interface. FCM images permit to highlight a marked heterogeneity within the tumor and characterize the interconnection between tissular structures. For the infiltrative tumors, a progressive gradient in the membership values of the pixels of the invasive front was also revealed.

This study describes a complementary infrared (IR) and Raman spectroscopic investigations of a set of biomolecule representatives of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) class. Both IR and Raman data exhibit characteristic spectral signatures that allow a direct molecular distinction of these compounds. Comparison of these molecular signatures clearly evidences the differences between heparan sulfate and heparin by computing the intensity ratio between the 1248 cm −1 and 1043 cm −1 peaks, corresponding respectively to sulfate and C─O─C linkages. Identically, chondroitin-4-sulfate and chondroitin-6-sulfate are differentiated via the 730 cm −1 and 853 cm −1 bands (axial orientation) and the 822 cm −1 and 1000 cm −1 bands (equatorial orientation). These orientations concern the sulfate groups of these molecules. Secondly, multivariate statistical methods were employed to analyze the data set. Hierarchical cluster analysis (HCA) of both IR and Raman spectra showed a very good differentiation between the different structures. In addition, the sulfatation degree could be obtained from this classification. Principal component analysis using three principal components (PCs) confirmed the findings of HCA and, furthermore, comparisons of the PC loadings highlight the main molecular differences between the members of this class of biological molecules. It is expected that these microspectroscopic methods will be useful in identifying GAG spectral signatures in complex biological systems.

In this study, we tested the potential of Fourier-transform infrared absorption spectroscopy to screen, on the one hand, Saccharomyces cerevisiae and non-S. cerevisiae strains and, on the other hand, to discriminate between S. cerevisiae and Saccharomyces bayanus strains. Principal components analysis (PCA), used to compare 20 S. cerevisiae and 21 non-Saccharomyces strains, showed only 2 misclassifications. The PCA model was then used to classify spectra from 14 Samos strains. All 14 Samos strains clustered together with the S. cerevisiae group. This result was confirmed by a routinely used electrophoretic pattern obtained by pulsed-field gel electrophoresis. The method was then tested to compare S. cerevisiae and S. bayanus strains. Our results indicate that identification at the strain level is possible. This first result shows that yeast classification and S. bayanus identification can be feasible in a single measurement.

The outermost layer of the mammalian skin, the stratum corneum (SC), represents the main skin barrier. The SC lipids have a very exceptional composition, as the main lipid classes are ceramides (CER), long-chain fatty acids and cholesterol. Information on the function of each CER subclass and on the relation between CER lipid organisation and composition is of great importance to unravel the mechanism controlling the skin barrier function. Raman spectroscopy has been increasingly used for the study of intra- and inter-molecular structures of long-chain lipid compounds. In this study, we employed Raman spectroscopy to evaluate the effect of (1) the chain length and (2) the polar head architecture on the conformational order and organisational behaviour of CERs. The relation between the structure and the stability of the organisation was studied by monitoring the thermotropic response of each CER in the temperature range between 25 and 95 °C. This work enabled the determination of a correlation between the gauche/trans ratio in the νCC region and the state of the lateral packing. Moreover, it was shown that –OH groups in the α position of the fatty acids reduce the stability while long alkyl chains reinforces the intra- and inter-chains order.

Non-melanoma skin cancer includes basal cell carcinoma (BCC), squamous cell carcinoma (SCC) and Bowen's disease. The differential diagnosis of these lesions is sometimes difficult and relies on the histopathological examination of surgical specimens. However, a precise differential diagnosis is crucial for an accurate therapy and thus better patient care. FTIR spectral micro-imaging was applied directly on formalin-fixed paraffin-embedded samples of non-melanoma skin cancers. Chemometric and multivariate statistical analyses were developed to generate an automated IR-based histology without any chemical dewaxing. Different prediction models were developed using linear discriminant analysis combined with data reduction by Principal Component Analysis (PCA) or by wavenumber selection using statistical tests or genetic algorithms. Pseudo-colour maps were reconstructed and compared to conventional histology procedures. High correlation was obtained between the prediction maps and the histology which proves the great potential of FTIR spectroscopy for the differential diagnosis of skin carcinomas.

Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy is nowadays widely accepted as a technique with high potential for diagnosis of cancerous tissues. This study presents an example of the investigation of peritoneal metastases by FTIR microimaging. Peritoneal malignancies are generally secondary localizations of primary visceral cancers such as ovarian, stomach or colon cancers. By analysing simultaneously both formalin-fixed paraffin-embedded and frozen specimens, we examined malignant and non-malignant (i.e. fibrotic and cicatricial) peritoneal lesions. Paraffin-embedded tissues were analysed without any previous dewaxing. Multivariate statistical approaches, based on the classification of infrared data by hierarchical cluster analysis, allowed the discrimination of these various samples. Microimaging also permits the revelation of the heterogeneity of the tissue: it was possible to localize precisely the cancerous areas, and to distinguish, on the basis of their spectral signatures, the peritumoral neighbouring connective tissue close to the carcinomatous areas from the connective tissue distant from the cancerous areas. These spectral differences could be useful as complementary information to study molecular changes associated with the malignancy.

This study aims to develop IR imaging of tumor tissues for generating an automated IR-based histology. Formalin-fixed paraffin-embedded xenografts of human colon carcinomas were analyzed. Chemometric and statistical multivariate treatments of spectral data permitted to probe the intrinsic chemical composition of tissues, directly from paraffinized sections without previous dewaxing. Reconstructed color-coded spectral images revealed a marked tumor heterogeneity. We identified three spectral clusters associated to tumoral tissues, whereas HE staining revealed only a single structure. Nine other clusters were assigned to either necrotic or host tissues. This spectral histology proved to be consistent over multiple passages of the same xenografted tumor confirming that intratumoral heterogeneity was maintained over time. In addition, developing an innovative image analysis, based on the quantification of neighboring pixels, permitted the identification of two main sequences of spectral clusters related to the tissue spatial organization. Molecular attribution of the spectral differences between the tumor clusters revealed differences of transcriptional activity within these tumor tissue subtypes. In conclusion, IR spectral imaging proves to be highly effective both for reproducible tissue subtype recognition and for tumor heterogeneity characterization. This may represent an attractive tool for routine high throughput diagnostic challenges, independent from visual morphology.

Processing of multispectral images is becoming an important issue, especially in terms of data mining for disease diagnosis. We report here an original image analysis procedure developed in order to compare 42 infrared multispectral images acquired on human ascending aortic healthy and pathological tissues. Each image contained about 2500 infrared absorption spectra, each composed of 1641 variables (wavenumbers). To process this large data set, we have restricted the spectral window used to the 1800-950 cm(-1) spectral range and selected 100 spectra from the aortic media, which is the most altered part of the aortic tissue in aneurysms. Prior to this selection, a spectral quality test was performed to eliminate 'bad' spectra. Our data set was first subjected to a discriminant analysis, which allowed separation of aortic tissues in two groups corresponding respectively to normal and aneurysmal states. Then a K-means analysis, based on 20 groups, allowed reconstruction of infrared images using false-colours and discriminated between pathological and healthy tissues. These results demonstrate the usefulness of such data processing methods for the analysis and comparison of a set of spectral images.

The aim of this tutorial review is to give an overview of the state of the art of intracellular applications of analytical SERS spectroscopy. We pay particular attention to nanoparticle-based SERS spectroscopy since this currently dominates the published literature on non-disturbing analysis of live cells. We describe recent advances in this domain due to the development of multispectral imaging and to the combined use of SERRS (surface-enhanced resonance Raman scattering) and fluorescence spectroscopy. Finally, a perspective view is given on the tip-based approaches like tip-enhanced Raman spectroscopy (TERS) which allow micrometric and nanometric resolution.

The incidence of fungal infections, in particular candidiasis and aspergillosis, has considerably increased during the last three decades. This is mainly due to advances in medical treatments and technologies. In high risk patients (e.g. in haematology or intensive care), the prognosis of invasive candidiasis is relatively poor. Therefore, a rapid and correct identification of the infectious agent is important for an efficient and prompt therapy. Most clinical laboratories rely on conventional identification methods that are based on morphological, physiological and nutritional characteristics. However, these have their limitations because they are time-consuming and not always very accurate. Moreover, molecular methods may be required to determine the genetic relationship between the infectious strains, for instance in Candida outbreaks. In addition, the latter methods require time, expensive consumables and highly trained staff to be performed adequately. In this study, we have applied the FTIR spectroscopic approach to different situations encountered in routine mycological diagnosis. We show the potentials of this phenotypic approach, used in parallel with routine identification methods, for the differentiation of 3 frequently encountered Candida species (C. albicans, C. glabrata and C. krusei) by using both suspensions and microcolonies. This approach, developed for an early discrimination, may help in the initial choice of antifungal treatment. Furthermore, we demonstrate the feasibility of the method for intraspecies comparison (typing) of 3 Candida species (C. albicans, C. glabrata and C. parapsilosis), particularly when an outbreak is suspected.

The purpose of this study was to characterize the variation in biochemical composition of 89 strains of Listeria monocytogenes with different susceptibilities towards sakacin P, using Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy and Raman spectroscopy. The strains were also analyzed using amplified fragment length polymorphism (AFLP) analysis. Based on their susceptibilities to sakacin P, the 89 strains have previously been divided into two groups. Using the FTIR spectra and AFLP data, the strains were basically differentiated into the same two groups. Analyses of the FTIR and Raman spectra revealed that the strains in the two groups contained differences in the compositions of carbohydrates and fatty acids. The relevance of the variation in the composition of carbohydrates with respect to the variation in the susceptibility towards sakacin P for the L. monocytogenes strains is discussed.

Microspectrofluorometry has been employed to study the spatial distribution of phenolic material in cereal grain. Transverse sections of the grain were used for the spectral characterisation of different molecular species present inTriticum durumgrains. Auto-fluorescence emission spectra were recorded on micro regions of each section. The analysis of the whole set of spectra permitted the characterisation of three principal spectral features; indicators of phenolics in specific regions of wheat sections. The comparison with model reference spectra showed that spectral components could be attributed to ferulic and p-coumaric acids. Using these spectral components, spectral fluorescence imaging was performed allowing the relative fluorescence intensity of each phenolic feature to be mapped. Images generated were used for the generation of the 3D organisation of auto-fluorescent phenolic materials within the grain. This new and rapid method was further used for the spectral characterisation of the various aleurone cell walls with high sensitivity. Analysis of the data showed that outer and inner aleurone cell walls exhibited similar fluorescence profiles but with significantly different intensities.

This thesis relates to the combination of two in vivo skin characterization techniques. On the one hand, Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy (DRS) enables skin optical properties characterization by quantifying light absorption and light elastic scattering. On the other hand, Raman microspectroscopy provides information on molecular compositions of tissues with no need of labeling. Localization and quantification functions of Raman microspectroscopy are both distorted in scattering media such as skin. Therefore, the aim of this thesis was to assess the effect of light-matter interactions on these functions. A bimodal method is proposed to achieve quantitative biochemical characterization of cutaneous tissues in vivo. The main idea is to develop a procedure of Raman spectra correction based on the quantified optical properties provided by DRS. This work was divided in three complementary approaches: the development of a system enabling diffuse reflectance and optical properties measurements in the same zone as Raman microspectroscopy; the fabrication of optical phantoms improving our knowledge on absorption, elastic scattering and Raman scattering phenomena; and the development of a Raman spectra correction model as function of the skin optical properties given by DRS measurements.; L'objectif de cette thèse concerne l'association de deux techniques de mesure dans le cadre de la caractérisation in vivo de la peau. La première, nommée Spectroscopie de Réflectance Diffuse (DRS), permet la caractérisation des paramètres optiques de la peau analysée et quantifie les phénomènes d'absorption et de diffusion de la lumière. La deuxième est la microspectroscopie Raman. Elle fournit une identification chimique des composés analysés sans marquage. L'objet de cette thèse est d'évaluer l'effet de l'interaction lumière-matière sur les capacités de localisation et de quantification de la microspectroscopie Raman, lesquelles sont dégradées dans un milieu diffusant tel que la peau. Une approche in vivo bimodale (DRS et Raman) est proposée pour la caractérisation biochimique quantitative des tissus cutanés avec l'idée d'établir un protocole de correction des spectres Raman acquis, en exploitant les propriétés optiques fournies par la DRS. Elle est décomposée en trois axes de travail complémentaires : le développement d'une instrumentation DRS permettant la mesure des spectres de réflectance diffuse et le calcul des propriétés optiques dans la zone sondée par la spectroscopie Raman; le développement de fantômes optiques permettant une compréhension expérimentale des phénomènes d'absorption, de diffusion élastique et de diffusion Raman; le développement d'un protocole de correction des spectres Raman à partir des propriétés optiques obtenues par DRS.