Isaline Saunier, Vincent Bernard, Mathilde Cervel, Dominique Joly, Noost Bayarkhuu, Tsagaan Turbat, Antoine Zazzo, Sébastien Lepetz, Groupe Sociétés, Religions, Laïcités (GSRL), École pratique des hautes études (EPHE), Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS), Centre de Recherche en Archéologie, Archéosciences, Histoire (CReAAH), Le Mans Université (UM)-Université de Rennes 1 (UR1), Université de Rennes (UNIV-RENNES)-Université de Rennes (UNIV-RENNES)-Université de Rennes 2 (UR2), Université de Rennes (UNIV-RENNES)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Université de Nantes - UFR Histoire, Histoire de l'Art et Archéologie (UFR HHAA), Université de Nantes (UN)-Université de Nantes (UN)-Ministère de la Culture (MC), Archéologie et Philologie d'Orient et d'Occident (AOROC), École normale supérieure - Paris (ENS Paris), Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-École pratique des hautes études (EPHE), Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL), Ville de Chartres et Chartres Métropole - Direction de l'Archéologie, Mongolian Academy of Sciences (MAS), Archéozoologie, archéobotanique : sociétés, pratiques et environnements (AASPE), Muséum national d'Histoire naturelle (MNHN)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS), This study was carried out within the framework of the work of the French Archaeological Mission in Mongolia (director Sébastien Lepetz) funded by the MEAE (French Ministry for Europe and Foreign Affairs), the CNRS (National Centre for Scientific Research), the MNHN (National Museum of Natural of History) and the the French National Research Agency LabEx ANR-10-LABX-0003-BCDiv, in the context of the 'Investissements d’avenir' n°ANR-11-IDEX-0004-02., ANR-10-LABX-0003,BCDiv,Biological and Cultural Diversities : Origins, Evolution, Interactions, Future(2010), ANR-11-IDEX-0004,SUPER,Sorbonne Universités à Paris pour l'Enseignement et la Recherche(2011), Université de Nantes (UN)-Le Mans Université (UM)-Université de Rennes 2 (UR2), Université de Rennes (UNIV-RENNES)-Université de Rennes (UNIV-RENNES)-Université de Rennes 1 (UR1), Université de Rennes (UNIV-RENNES)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Ministère de la Culture (MC), École Pratique des Hautes Études (EPHE), Le Mans Université (UM)-Université de Rennes (UR)-Université de Rennes 2 (UR2)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Ministère de la Culture (MC)-Nantes Université - UFR Histoire, Histoire de l'Art et Archéologie (Nantes Univ - UFR HHAA), Nantes Université - pôle Humanités, Nantes Université (Nantes Univ)-Nantes Université (Nantes Univ)-Nantes Université - pôle Humanités, Nantes Université (Nantes Univ)-Nantes Université (Nantes Univ), Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Département des Sciences de l'Antiquité - ENS Paris (DSA ENS-PSL), École normale supérieure - Paris (ENS-PSL), and Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-École normale supérieure - Paris (ENS-PSL)
International audience; The analysis of archaeological textiles is a primary source of knowledge about past societies, and the information it provides is remarkably diverse. However, special preservation conditions are needed to obtain an accurate picture of the use of textiles, particularly in the making of clothing. In Tomb 14 at the site of Burgast (Altai Mountains, Mongolia), excavated in 2016 by the French archaeological mission in Mongolia and the Institute of Archaeology of the Mongolian Academy of Sciences, the particular local conditions favoured the preservation of organic materials, including the complete clothing worn by the mummy of a child belonging to the Bulan-Kobin culture. This paper examines several questions on the origin of the raw material used and the role of these garments in funerary practices. The fibre analysis indicates that the silk and taffeta fabrics used to dress the mummy likely from China. We consider a plurality of sources (historical, archaeological, technical study analysis), as silk could have travelled. Our study of the tailoring shows that some of the textiles were probably re-used and provides new insights into clothing design and know-how. We argue that the deceased was dressed with care, and we propose that specific, non-quotidian garments were used for the funeral ceremony. Together, these findings contribute to describing little-known aspects of the Bulan-Kobin culture and hypotheses about its relations within the Xiongnu confederation.