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• Flume experiments were conducted to assess the impact of submerged flexible vegetation on regular wave attenuation and beach morphology. • The presence of vegetation prevented further erosion of the beach, resulting in a reduction of 7% to 63% in experiments. • The attenuation caused by vegetation results in the wave breaking point being closer to the shoreline on vegetated sand, leading to shoreline retreat. • A dimensionless equation was developed to characterize the behaviour of the cross-shore beach profile under the protection of flexible vegetation. Coastal protection methods are evolving from hard engineering techniques to natural enhancement approaches. Aquatic vegetation provides an environmentally friendly solution by effectively dissipating waves and resisting erosion. Laboratory flume experiments were conducted to investigate the effect of submerged flexible vegetation on the regular wave attenuation and cross-shore profiles on the artificial plane beach under varying hydraulic conditions. Variations in the waveform, wave spectrum, and wave height were analysed in the vegetation zone. Results show vegetation distorts the waveform and accelerates the attenuation process of the wave energy, and wave height evolution behaves differently from the theoretically obtained attenuation by Mendez and Losada (2004) due to the underestimating vegetation-induced attenuation and neglecting sediment-induced attenuation. Additionally, the formation process of the winter and summer profiles of the vegetated beach was analysed by the screenshots. Regenerated wave breaking becomes more apparent with increasing wave periods. The critical surf similarity parameter of the vegetated beaches was found to be lower than that of a smooth, impermeable slope because of the energy dissipation. Vegetation did not alter the type of the beach profiles, as compared to the final profiles and their characteristic parameters of the unvegetated beaches. Instead, it reduced the erosion depth and brought the eroded area closer to the shoreline. Dimensionless parameters were formulated to characterize the response of the cross-shore beach profile under the shelter of flexible vegetation, and an empirical equation about maximum erosion depth was developed within the scope of the experiment. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Storm surge, a major disaster in coastal areas, is generated by tropical cyclones. Strong currents and waves during storm surges often cause sediment transport and beach erosion, significantly damaging the coastal ecosystem. This paper presents a flow-wave-sediment-morphodynamic coupled model to predict morphodynamic changes caused by overwash during storm surges. In the model, the flow field is calculated using the generalized shallow water equations coupled with the Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) model, while sediment transport and bed changes are computed using a non-equilibrium total-load sediment transport model. The model solves the governing equations by employing the explicit finite-volume approach based on a rectangular mesh. The Godunov-type central upwind scheme is adopted to calculate the interface fluxes, thereby solving the complex Riemann problem. A series of numerical experiments considering wave-induced longshore current and short-term bed erosion are conducted to validate the established model and demonstrate its ability to simulate waves, flow fields, and bed changes during storm surge. Specifically, we used the model to simulate the morphological evolution of the Santa Rosa barrier island caused by Hurricane Ivan's storm surge, and the results indicate that the model accurately predicts the real-case erosion process caused by storm surge and overwash during the hurricane. The simulated results clearly explain overwash development, including washover fans, foredune erosion, and back-barrier deposition. It demonstrates that the front dune significantly eroded with the Santa Rosa barrier island coastline retreating by a maximum of about 80 m during the storm surge. More than three breaches with a width of up to 135 m were formed on the sandy barrier due to wave overwash, while the topography at the breach changed significantly. • A new flow-wave-sediment-morphodynamic coupled model is developed to predict morphodynamic changes caused by overwash during storm surges. • A series of numerical experiments conducted using the new model demonstrates its ability and it successfully predicts the overwash erosion of the Santa Rosa barrier island during Hurricane Ivan's storm surge. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Underneath rock slopes of rubble mound structures often one or more granular filter layers are present. These filter layers prevent base material washout. In contrast to traditional filters, geometrically open filters allow for some movement of base material. In order to design such open filters the amount of erosion and accretion of base material needs to be predicted. Based on 2D physical model tests Van Gent and Wolters (2015) presented a method to estimate the erosion and accretion of sand underneath rock slopes. Since the developed method was only valid for perpendicular wave attack, a new study has been performed to assess effects of oblique wave attack on the amount of erosion and accretion of sand underneath a rock slope. For that purpose 3D physical model tests were performed in a wave basin with 5 different wave angle between 0° (perpendicular wave attack) and 75°. Based on the test results it was shown how the effects of wave obliquity can be taken into account in the design of open filters. In addition, the effect of the storm duration on open filters has been studied. This led to an extended design method to predict the amount of erosion and accretion of sand underneath rock slopes under wave loading. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study the numerical model Delft3D is implemented on high-resolution grids to evaluate beach morphological response to groins and submerged breakwaters under sea-breeze conditions. The numerical model is compared with field measurements from three sites on the northern Yucatan coast of Mexico. At these sites, relatively low energy waves with significant wave heights arrive at a steep oblique angle to the coast that drives high sediment transport rates. After calibration of the model, by adjustment of model free parameters, the model results show accurate representations of the diurnal variation of hydrodynamic conditions (wave height and current velocity) driven by the daily sea-breezes. Moreover, the morphodynamic model shows a good representation of the rapid morphological changes, particularly of the accretion pattern caused by a temporary groin and the subsequent recovery following the structure removal. However, erosion patterns at the downdrift areas of structures were not reproduced, owing to the numerical model limitations of simulating swash morphodynamics. Model validation with field observations of the beach response behind submerged breakwaters enabled the model to be used for a parametric study. Following previous work, new equations are developed in the present study that show an improvement for predicting shoreline changes near submerged breakwaters under sea-breeze conditions. Despite the limitations in reproducing downdrift erosion, overall the high-resolution modelling approach satisfactorily simulates the hydrodynamic and the updrift accretion responses to coastal structures on sandy beaches with oblique waves. • Simulations of beach change near groins and submerged breakwaters are performed. • Results are compared to measurements at three sites with high sediment transport rates. • New equations show improved prediction of shoreline change near submerged structures. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal dunes provide many ecosystem services including protection of infrastructure from wave overtopping and habitat for native species. Foredunes grow at different rates and assume different forms (i.e., short and wide to tall and narrow) depending on a range of factors including pre-existing beach and dune morphology, wind, wave, and water levels, sediment grain size, and vegetation characteristics, yet the relative importance of these factors on foredune growth is understudied. Here, we quantify foredune evolution (2016–2019) and explore the relative influence of a suite of metocean, sedimentary, and ecological factors for dune growth on three barrier islands in the U.S. North Carolina Outer Banks (Cape Lookout National Seashore). We incorporate observed and hindcast wind, wave, and water level data into the process-based, coupled beach-dune evolution model, Windsurf, to explore the relative contribution of factors likely to influence foredune growth at the annual timescale (2016–2017). Our cross-shore topographic profile observations show varied interannual foredune change rates and characteristics, including horizontal retreat and progradation at the dune toe and vertical erosion and accretion at the dune crest. Model results indicate that, of the factors explored, pre-existing morphology had the greatest influence on the type of foredune growth that occurred (i.e., incipient dune development, widening of the dune, and/or vertical accretion), which dramatically altered the final shape of the dune. Variations in wind and wave climates were associated with the relative contribution of marine- and aeolian-driven bed elevation changes and were particularly influential during storms. In addition, increases in the minimum elevation of vegetation on the dune profile (analogous to the cross-shore distance between the shoreline and established vegetation line, i.e., the vegetation limit, as coined by Duran and Moore, 2013) increased dune crest height and dune volume. Moreover, variations in the minimum vegetation elevation resulted in a larger range of dune crest elevations and dune volumes than differences in the median sand grain size. We suggest that insights into the relative influence of metocean, sedimentary, and ecological factors to dune growth can assist in the development of practical coastal management strategies. • Pre-existing beach-dune morphology had the largest influence on dune growth type. • Exposure to the dominant wave direction led to increased dune volume. • Higher minimum vegetation elevation and finer sand resulted in taller dunes. • Minimum vegetation elevation influenced dune growth more than sand grain size. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Experimental results involving shoreface nourishment scenarios are presented. The experiments are performed at small scale and the effects of nourishment placement and timing in relation to long-term cross-shore profile development are investigated. Four different nourishment scenarios are tested experimentally, with nourishment positioned both in the trough of a pre-developed profile as well as along the bar of the profile. The results demonstrate that under all scenarios the erosion of the shoreline slows relative to the case without nourishment. The two cases where the nourishment was placed along the bar reduced erosion of the shoreline more compared to the two cases with nourishment in the trough onshore of the bar. Compared to past experiments on nourishment presented in the literature, the present experiments were run for a longer duration, and the concepts of equilibrium profile and the development towards such an equilibrium were investigated. Curiously, the experiments showed a reversal of the sediment transport rate from being primarily offshore directed across the entire profile to onshore directed in the inner surf zone region closest to the shoreline. This reversal of transport rate occurred without changing the incoming wave conditions and resulted in deposition at the shoreline. This either questions the existence of equilibrium beach profiles or at the very least shows that the development towards such an equilibrium will not always be monotonic in time. • Shoreface nourishments are performed at model scale investigating the influence of timing and placement on long term profile development. • Placement of nourishment can disturb the cross-shore profile shape over long time. • After long time running with the same wave climate the transport rate changed from offshore directed to onshore directed in the inner surf zone. • The change in sign was related to cessation of wave-breaking and resulted in sand returning to an otherwise eroding beach. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Shorelines bordering ebb deltas are often subject to deformation by the approach and attachment of ebb-tidal shoals. Although this is a common behaviour, little attention has been paid to the link between shoal migration and the multi-annual development of the adjacent beach-dune system. This study aims to understand beach-dune systems' behaviour during the approach phase of an ebb-tidal shoal attachment event. Topographic and bathymetric data of the barrier island of Texel (NL) was used to calculate shoreline position, beach and dune volume, dunefoot position, and shoal displacement rates. Two classical beach-dune interaction models were used to understand the observed behaviour: the surfzone-beach-dune model and the sediment budget model. The analysis revealed how a larger bank on the land-facing side of the ebb delta split into two smaller shoals with different morphological behaviours. One of the shoals (S1) moved consistently landwards, recently attaching the shore, whereas the second shoal (S2) is still evolving and presents a milder landward movement than S1. In parallel to the landward movement of S1, the adjacent coastline was subject to erosion, partially counterbalanced by nourishments. However, despite the erosion, dunes are growing in volume, suggesting a net positive transfer of sand from the beach to the dunes. In the surfzone-beach-dune model, regular nourishments positively affect beach state by maintaining sufficient beach size for aeolian sediment transport and reducing shoreline erosion. In the budget model, dune volume growth may occur despite a slightly negative beach budget. Framing Texel in the budget model implies that the beach budget before the start of the approach phase is crucial in defining the behaviour of the dune system during this phase. If the shoal approach significantly reduces the beach budget, the system may cross the budget threshold that dune building is possible. Thus, the dune system may evolve to an erosional state, including dune ridge dissection and blowout development. Hence, nourishments have been essential in keeping the current morphological state during the attachment of the shoal, as they restrict the system from crossing the negative morphological threshold. Thus, without the nourishments, beach erosion driven by the shoal might have led to morphological changes in the dune system that could lead to years of a weakened level of protection until foredune recovery after attachment. • Shoal-induced changes in beach budget influence dune development. • Dune morphology may change depending on the beach state prior to attachment. • Nourishments can retain beach budget at a sufficient level to maintain dune morphology. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The field observation at two neighboring beaches showed significant effects of berm height on beach profile changes during a major storm. The fully nonlinear Boussinesq wave model, FUNWAVE-TVD, with a sediment transport module was used to simulate the beach erosion processes of the two beaches. The model reproduced the beach profile changes in good agreement with the measured data. The model results revealed that, for the beach with a higher berm, the wave force, wave-induced undertow flow, along with the higher sediment concentration on the berm induce more offshore sediment transport and cause significant beach profile changes compared to the beach with a lower berm. The erosion trend with different berm heights was predicted by using a series of numerical tests with different berm heights and offshore forcing conditions. The test results suggested that beach erosion increases with the berm height until the berm height reaches a certain level. • Field observation erosion/deposition shows pattern different storm-induced between two neighboring beaches. • The sediment module in the Boussinesq model, FUNWAVETVD, is validated against measured morphological data for the first time for the wind wave conditions. • Trend of beach erosion with different heights of beach berm is investigated. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: Future shoreline changes on a sandy beach with a structure such as a jetty or groin can be estimated when wave time series is known (i.e. sequence of wave height, period, and direction). This paper presents an extension of an existing solution () for the linearized partial differential equation for shoreline change at an infinite jetty where waves are time varying and when the angle of the shoreline is small with respect to the waves breaking at the shoreline. The novel solution provided in this paper allows the previous constant wave condition solution to be extended to the case where wave properties (i.e. wave direction, wave height, and wave period) are time varying. Example usage of the method presented shows that shorelines may be of different final plan form shape for time varying wave conditions even though the sediment transport along adjacent beaches is not spatially varying (i.e. spatially constant) from time step to time step. Although this difference in shape may have been known previously using numerical models, it could not be proved analytically. Reversals of wave height, period, and direction time series are shown to provide different final shoreline shapes even though the time series consists of the same waves although in different ordered time. The solution provided will allow one line numerical shoreline models to be tested using an analytic solution. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: The disruption of sediment supply from river to coast by dam development has been a topic of global concern. In Japan, among the top 30 dams in terms of height, 14 dams were constructed prior to 1970 and another 6 dams before 1980. However, the coastline erosion did not surface up as a grievous problem until the 1980s. According to the River Bureau of Japan, the overall erosion rate along the coastline of Japan was 0.72×106m2/yr prior to 1980, but sharply increased to 1.6×106m2/yr since 1980. Therefore, there was a time lag between the disruption of sediment supply by dam and beach erosion. This paper presents a case study on what may have delayed the response of beach to the effect of dam construction. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: A technique is described to observe and quantify wave-by-wave bed-level changes in the swash zone. The ultrasonic instrument system is non-contact with the beach face surface being measured and the sensors remain outside of the fluid flows causing sediment movement. Sensor resolution combined with the electronic noise inherent within a digital network data-logging system results in a (conservative) measurement accuracy of ±1 mm, equating to a couple of sand grain diameters in height. Illustrative field results demonstrate the practical use of the instrumentation, and a simple data pre-processing method to separate swashes and intervening bed-level ‘events’ is discussed. These example data reveal rather complex fluctuations of the bed observed over time periods of minutes to hours. Rather strikingly, gross bed-level changes per wave are revealed to be up to many orders of magnitude larger than the observed net rate of beach face evolution. It is outlined how observations of successive bed-level changes at multiple locations within a dense grid, combined with a consideration of sediment continuity, will now enable the total net sediment transported per uprush–backwash to be quantified. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Numerical modeling of a beach nourishment project is conducted to enable a detailed evaluation of the processes associated with the effects of nearshore dredge pits on nourishment evolution and formation of erosion hot spots. A process-based numerical model, Delft3D, is used for this purpose. The analysis is based on the modification of existing bathymetry to simulate “what if” scenarios with/without the bathymetric features of interest. Borrow pits dredged about 30 years ago to provide sand for the nourishment project have a significant influence on project performance and formation of erosional hot spots. It was found that the main processes controlling beach response to these offshore bathymetric features were feedbacks between wave forces (roller force or alongshore component of the radiation stress), pressure gradients due to differentials in wave set-up/set-down and bed shear stress. Modeling results also indicated that backfilling of selected borrow sites showed a net positive effect within the beach fill limits and caused a reduction in the magnitude of hot spot erosion. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: The processes responsible for sediment transport and morphological change in the intertidal zone of natural beaches are not well known. Consequently, factors determining whether the intertidal beach erodes/accretes or remains stable in the face of significant wave impact, and the mechanisms behind the elusive concept of ‘equilibrium beach slope’ are poorly understood. A field experiment was designed to measure suspended sediment transport in the swash and inner surf zone through successive tidal cycles in the intertidal zone at Egmond Beach, The Netherlands, using a stack of fiberoptic backscatter sensors (UFOBS-7). The experimental period comprised three large storm events, including an extreme storm with offshore significant wave heights in excess of 7 m. Surveys spanning a >1 km long section of the beach as well as observations from an ARGUS video camera system showed that gently sloping shoreline salients (megacusps) were highly stable in position and displayed only minor slope adjustments through the storm period, whereas steeply sloping embayments were eroded significantly. The sediment transport measurements at a shoreline salient indicated that the subdued net beach response was because offshore sediment transport occurring under surf zone conditions at high tide was compensated by onshore sediment transport at low tide when swash zone processes dominated. Such temporally varying, tidally modulated sediment transport rates and directions are suggested to be able to maintain a quasi-equilibrium intertidal beach slope and the results indicate that a negative feedback existed between initial beach slope and net sediment transport patterns. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

The response of nourished beaches to sea level rise is investigated experimentally with random waves in a laboratory wave flume (20 m × 1 m × 1 m), following on from a previous investigation of the response of non-nourished beaches (Atkinson et al., 2018). The nourishments are placed on beach profiles previously exposed to sufficient durations of waves to have approached a near-equilibrium state, i.e., with stable shoreline, bars and berms. Nourishment was placed in three different locations: on the berm, within the bar trough, and as a shoreline placement. In the latter case, and following Bruun rule concepts (Bruun, 1962), the volume of sediment placed was estimated a priori to lead to zero recession under the chosen water level rise. The nourished beaches were then exposed again to sufficient durations of waves to reach a near-equilibrium state at the raised water level. The shoreline recession and the mean recession of the profile following a rise in water level are compared for both the nourished and non-nourished beaches, and to theoretical estimates based on Bruun rule concepts and a previously developed Profile Translation Model (PTM). Quantitative agreement is found with the variants of the Bruun Rule that account for nourishment and with the PTM, and the predicted recession is within an order of ±30% of the observed recession. Overall, the PTM provides the best estimate of the recession. The mean recession of the profile is found to be in better agreement with the model predictions than the recession measured at the shoreline, because the latter is affected by changes in profile shape around the still water line. The efficacy of the nourishment was investigated from the reduction in the observed recession. The efficacy depends on how the recession is measured. For the mean recession, highest efficacy was observed when all the nourishment is added into the active profile. Conversely, for the shoreline recession, highest efficacy was observed with the nourishment placed on the upper beach because it prevents additional recession through wave overtopping. • Direct comparison of nourishment and non-nourishment experiments. • Nourishment reduces recession associated with sea level rise. • Nourishment placed further landward reduces chance of loss of sediment offshore. • The effective nourishment volume is important to consider when predicting recession. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]