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Background: Skin photoaging and uneven pigmentation are common dermatological concerns. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THDA) and acetyl zingerone (AZ) are potent antioxidants that have been shown to have anti-photoaging and anti-pigmentation effects. THDA is a more stable and penetrable form of vitamin C. AZ is an antioxidant derived from ginger which has clinical evidence for improving photoaging. However, no studies have assessed how they may synergistically act on the skin., Aims: This study aims to assess whether a serum containing both THDA and AZ can improve photoaging and the appearance of uneven facial pigmentation., Patients/methods: This open-label study was conducted on 35 healthy individuals aged 21-55. All subjects were instructed to use three to five drops of the topical serum (Power-C Serum, Image Skincare, Lantana, FL) daily for 12 weeks. Videomicroscopy and high-resolution photography and various skin biophysical measurements were taken at baseline, 1, 4, and 12 weeks. Outcomes included skin tone and pigmentation, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin smoothness, firmness, and elasticity., Results: Compared to baseline, the results at 12 weeks revealed significant decreases in skin pigmentation (p < 0.0001), decreased fine lines and wrinkles (p < 0.0001), and increased smoothness (p < 0.0001), firmness (p < 0.0001), and elasticity (p < 0.0001). Additionally, transepidermal water loss was significantly decreased at 4 weeks compared to baseline (p = 0.01), indicating an increased epidermal barrier integrity., Conclusions: Overall, these findings provide evidence for the combined use of THDA and AZ to address skin photoaging and dyspigmentation changes., (© 2024 The Authors. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology published by Wiley Periodicals LLC.)

Background: Tetrahexydecyl ascorbate (THDA) is a lipophilic precursor to ascorbic acid that may be stabilized by acetyl zingerone (AZ). Studies have shown that the topical application of THDA may have photoprotective effects. Similarly, AZ has been shown to mitigate oxidative and inflammatory stress, thereby improving the appearance of photoaging., Aims: To examine the effects of THDA and AZ (THDA-AZ) on skin photoaging compared to THDA alone., Patients/methods: In this double-blind, randomized controlled trial, healthy individuals aged 30 to 65 were included and 44 participants were randomized to receive either THDA-AZ (THDA 5% + AZ 1%) or THDA only (THDA 5%) for 8 weeks. Facial photographs were taken at 0, 4, and 8 weeks to analyze wrinkle severity, pigment intensity, and redness intensity. A skin colorimeter was used to assess infraorbital pigmentation and erythema. Self-perception of skin and tolerability were assessed through questionnaires., Results: Average wrinkle severity was significantly decreased in the THDA-AZ group at Weeks 4 and 8 by 0.75% (p = 0.023) and 3.72% (p = 0.048), respectively, compared to the THDA group where wrinkle severity at Weeks 4 and 8 was increased by 7.88% and 4.48%, respectively. Facial pigment intensity was significantly decreased in the THDA-AZ group by 4.10% (p = 0.0002) at Week 8 compared to a 0.69% decrease in the THDA group. Facial redness intensity was decreased in the THDA-AZ group at Weeks 4 and 8 by 3.73% (p = 0.0162) and 14.25% (p = 0.045), respectively, compared to the THDA group where at Weeks 4 and 8 erythema increased by 27.5% and 8.34%, respectively. There were no significant differences in either group for infraorbital pigmentation or erythema., Conclusions: Daily use of combined THDA and AZ may improve facial wrinkle severity, pigment intensity, and erythema to a greater extent than THDA. While THDA alone increases facial wrinkle severity and erythema, the addition of AZ reduces both., (© 2024 The Authors. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology published by Wiley Periodicals LLC.)

Background: Beeswax is a naturally occurring product secreted from worker bees that has varied uses in modern day. In skincare, its function ranges from its role as an occlusive, helping to create a semi-occlusive skin barrier that minimizes transepidermal water loss; as a humectant, locking in hydration; and an emollient to soften and soothe the skin. As a natural substance, its use has been shown to help alleviate symptoms associated with common cutaneous conditions like dermatitis, psoriasis, and overgrowth of normal skin flora., Aims: In this narrative review, we aim to describe current uses of beeswax in skincare that has been published in the literature., Materials and Methods: A review of beeswax related publications was performed by searching the PubMed database studies., Results: A total of five clinical studies were included with three studies on animals and two studies in humans., Discussion: Several studies show the benefits of topical beeswax in supporting the skin barrier., Conclusion: Beeswax can be a low-cost, natural ingredient for use in products. Further studies with topical beeswax are warranted., (© 2023 The Authors. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology published by Wiley Periodicals LLC.)

Psoriasis and atopic dermatitis are chronic inflammatory skin conditions, each affecting about 2-3% of the United States adult population. Phototherapy, such as narrowband ultraviolet-B (NB-UVB) therapy have been employed for the treatment of both psoriasis and atopic dermatitis for decades. More recently, systemic biologics have been approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), representing a great advancement in dermatology. No comprehensive study to date has compared the cost efficacy of phototherapy compared to FDA-approved biologics for the treatment of psoriasis and atopic dermatitis. We pursued a systematic review of the literature for studies assessing efficacy of NB-UVB or biologics with endpoints including the Psoriasis Area and Severity Index (PASI) and the Eczema Area and Severity Index (EASI). Thirty-four studies including 55 treatment regimens and 5,123 patients were included in the analysis. Phototherapy costs were estimated with Medicare fee schedules for phototherapy-related current procedural terminology code (CPT), and biologic costs were estimated with wholesale acquisition cost (WAC). Total costs to achieve PASI 75 or EASI 75 in each study were standardized to a single month, the "adjusted cost," and exploited to a year, the "effective yearly cost," allowing direct cost-efficacy comparison despite different durations of treatment described in studies. The psoriasis analysis found NB-UVB to be the most cost-effective therapy, with an adjusted monthly cost of $1714.00 per PASI 75. Infliximab was the least expensive biologic, with an adjusted monthly cost of $2076.00 to $2502.00 per PASI 75. For atopic dermatitis, no NB-UVB studies utilized EASI 75 as their outcome measure, hindering the ability to directly compare cost effectiveness for the treatment of atopic dermatitis. However, all NB-UVB studies depicted a reduced treatment cost per treatment period compared to studies assessing biologics, although this comparison does not account for efficacy. The results depict NB-UVB to be the most cost effective for the treatment of psoriasis and the least expensive per treatment period for the treatment of atopic dermatitis. However, certain factors need to be taken into account. Biologics may be more effective for more severe disease, do not require multiple weekly clinic visits, and the ease for patient compliance may lead some to favor biologic therapy. This study is necessary to allow physicians, patients, and health systems to make informed decisions regarding cost-efficacy for a variety of treatment options., (© 2023 the International Society of Dermatology.)

This commentary is intended to expand the discussion around comparisons of topical bakuchiol to topical retinol. The state of the evidence for existing retinoid studies, the limitations in previous assessment methodologies, and the evolution of newer methods with high resolution image analysis-based techniques are explored., (© 2021 Wiley Periodicals LLC.)

Background: Both topical and oral probiotics are becoming widely used. There is increasing interest in the cosmetic potential in topical probiotics. Nitrosomonas eutropha is an ammonia-oxidizing bacteria., Aim: The purpose of this study was to assess whether there is any improvement in facial wrinkles with the use of Nitrosomonas eutropha, a topical probiotic., Methods: In this prospective study, high-resolution photographs were obtained in twenty-nine participants at baseline and after using topical Nitrosomonas eutropha for seven days., Results: There was a significant difference in wrinkle depth and severity in the high concentration probiotic group. There was also a statistically significant improvement in pigmentation of the forehead and glabella in the higher concentration group., Conclusions: Nitrosomonas eutropha may have aesthetic benefits in terms of reducing the appearance of wrinkles. Larger studies with longer treatment and follow-up periods are required., (© 2019 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

Background: Cloud-based image sharing technology allows facilitated sharing of images. Cloud-based image sharing technology has not been well-studied for acne assessments or treatment preferences, among international evaluators. We evaluated inter-rater variability of acne grading and treatment recommendations among an international group of dermatologists that assessed photographs., Methods: This is a prospective, single visit photographic study to assess inter-rater agreement of acne photographs shared through an integrated mobile device, cloud-based, and HIPAA-compliant platform. Inter-rater agreements for global acne assessment and acne lesion counts were evaluated by the Kendall's coefficient of concordance while correlations between treatment recommendations and acne severity were calculated by Spearman's rank correlation coefficient., Results: There was good agreement for the evaluation of inflammatory lesions (KCC = 0.62, P < 0.0001), noninflammatory lesions (KCC = 0.62, P < 0.0001), and the global acne grading system score (KCC = 0.69, P < 0.0001). Topical retinoid, oral antibiotic, and isotretinoin treatment preferences correlated with photographic based acne severity., Conclusions: Our study supports the use of mobile phone based photography and cloud-based image sharing for acne assessment. Cloud-based sharing may facilitate acne care and research among international collaborators., (© 2017 The International Society of Dermatology.)

Background: The reproducible evaluation of facial redness is critical to the assessment of erythematotelangiectatic rosacea. Assessments have typically focused on the use of photography with the use of semi-quantitative grading scales based on evaluator rating. However, few studies have utilized computer-based algorithms to evaluate facial redness., Aim: The purpose of this clinical study was to assess whether there is correlation between clinical grading of facial redness to the assessment of a quantitative computer-based facial modeling and measurement., Material and Methods: In this prospective study, a set of high-resolution facial photographs and cross-polarized subsurface photographs for erythema detection were obtained for 31 study participants. A computer algorithm was then utilized to detect and quantify facial redness in the photographs and compare this to semi-quantitative evaluator-based grading for facial redness., Results: There was a strong correlation between computer-based cross-polarized subsurface erythema quantification and clinical grading for redness intensity (Clinical Erythema Assessment), redness distribution, and overall redness severity (Modified Clinical Erythema Assessment)., Conclusion: Overall, facial redness measurements by facial imaging and computer analysis correlated well to clinical grading scales for both redness intensity and distribution. Future studies should incorporate facial modeling and analysis tools for assessments in clinical studies to introduce greater objectivity and quantitative analysis in facial erythema-based analyses., (© 2015 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

Platelet-rich plasma (PRP) is a highly concentrated autologous solution of plasma prepared from a patient's own blood. PRP contains platelets that are purported to release numerous growth factors that may be valuable in numerous dermatologic applications. Here, we review systematically the clinical cosmetic applications of PRP including: androgenetic alopecia, scar revision, acne scars, skin rejuvenation, dermal augmentation, and striae distensae to understand the potential and best practices for PRP use. A systematic search was conducted on three databases: Pubmed, Embase, and Web of Science. Publications were included if they were in English, investigated the clinical applications of PRP in aesthetic dermatology and reported clinical results either as case reports or clinical studies. There were a total of 22 manuscripts that fulfilled these criteria. Four evaluated hair-related applications, eight evaluated the treatment of scars and postprocedure recovery, eight evaluated skin rejuvenation and dermal augmentation, and two evaluated treatment of striae distensae. PRP is a relatively new treatment modality with studies suggesting its utility in aesthetic dermatology. The combination of PRP with other therapies is particularly interesting. Future studies should include controls, including incorporation of split-face comparisons, to reduce intersubject variability., (© 2015 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)