1. Awakening the Senses: Adornment in Film Costumes by Adrian
- Author
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Perlman, Karen Randi [Author], Font, Lourdes [Thesis advisor], Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York. Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice [Degree granting institution], Perlman, Karen Randi [Author], Font, Lourdes [Thesis advisor], and Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York. Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice [Degree granting institution]
- Abstract
Department: Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice, Advisors: Font, Lourdes, Committee members: Davidson, Hilary; Carlson, Brooke, Hollywood films of the 1920s-40s included lavishly embellished costumes that reflected light from metallic embroidery, sequins and glass beads. The reflected light was augmented with feathers, fringes, and other adornments. These spectacular costumes were enhanced by headdresses and jewelry. The challenge of creating illusionary beauty was achieved by the costume designer, who imagined and executed his/her designs. In Hollywood history, there is a legendary film costume designer whose costumes are still marveled at today. He is Gilbert Adrian (1903-59) simply known as “Adrian,” who worked as the Head Costume Designer at Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer (MGM) from 1928 to 1941. Film scholars have credited Adrian as the most influential film costume designer, and the creator of the “Hollywood Glamour Look.” Adrian’s creations serve as cases-in-point to examine how adornment (i.e. embellishment, headwear and jewelry) augment the “embodiment” of film costumes (i.e. dress). Eighteen films from 1929 to 1941 were categorized into five groups: Reflected Light; Feathers and Fringes Abound; Modernism: Simplicity and Contrast; Hollywood’s Orientalism; and Masquerade and Musicals. The theoretical frameworks were phenomenology, Mei Mei Rado, Edward Said, and Anne Hollander among others to provide a different perspective on “embodiment.” The results Adrian achieved from his astute understanding of how fabrics and embellishments film in black-and-white are impressive. Adrian’s prolific career from film costume to fashion designer remains influential today.
- Published
- 2023