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Nearshore incised valleys are important conduits for the transport of sediment, nutrients, pollutants and organic carbon from the continents to the sea. Therefore, it is essential to understand the autogenic evolution of deltas confined within incised valleys and how such evolution is affected by relative sea‐level rise. To date, limited research has focused on how deltas constrained by incised valleys or other forms of antecedent topography respond to rising sea level. An existing theory of autostratigraphy envisages scenarios in which two‐dimensional or unconfined three‐dimensional fan deltas can experience three evolutionary stages under constant rates of relative sea‐level rise and sediment supply: progradation, autoretreat and post‐autobreak transgression. In this work, an integrated study of geometric numerical models and physical experiments is undertaken to investigate autostratigraphic delta evolution for a variety of incised‐valley geometries, under conditions of constant rates of relative sea‐level rise and sediment supply. Results indicate that interplays of antecedent topography (valley geometries) and sediment mass balance expressed in resultant deltaic geometries can result in autogenic changes in shoreline dynamics and river avulsion frequency on deltas. The following primary findings arise. (i) Compared to valleys with rectangular and trapezoidal cross‐sectional profiles, valleys with triangular cross‐sections tend to contain deltas that experience faster rates of progradation, autoretreat and post‐autobreak transgression under rising sea level, and exhibit a more prominent convex‐seaward shoreline trajectory. (ii) The shoreline trajectory is also related to delta topset geometry, becoming more convex‐seaward under decreasing topset slopes. (iii) River avulsion frequency on deltas with rising sea level varies markedly across valleys with different geometries, even under the same rate of relative sea‐level rise; this is attributed to the difference in temporal evolution of shoreline migration for different valley geometries and the resultant difference in the delta topset aggradation. This study highlights complexities in responses of sedimentary systems under the confinement of different topographic configurations that have hitherto largely been overlooked in sequence‐stratigraphic models. The findings provide insight into future shoreline behaviour and river avulsion hazard on confined deltas, and for decoding the stratigraphic record. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Beach–dune systems are highly dynamic features of the coastal system, the evolution of which is influenced by several processes that occur at very different spatial and temporal scales. To mitigate shoreline retreat that threatens extensive coastal areas worldwide, coastal erosion mitigation measures are implemented, aiming to make coastal areas resilient to the effects induced by coastal erosion and the anticipated climate change related to storms, flood events and sea level rise. Numerical modelling can support planned and sustainable coastal management from a medium-to-long-term perspective (decades). This research focuses on presenting contributions regarding the numerical modelling of subaerial beach dynamics (berm width and dune systems interactions) from a medium-term perspective. The method applied is based on a combination of the results of two simplified numerical models (the LTC and CS-Model). The results demonstrate the potential of the proposed combined model for medium-term projections, allowing for the interpretation of beach–dune dynamics and the evaluation of the importance of longshore and cross-shore sediment transport processes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

As escalating environmental pressures threaten the world's beaches, understanding the driving factors influencing their geomorphological changes is of critical global importance. This study focuses on the morphological changes of Sigeng beach adjacent to Changhua River Mouth in Hainan Island, China through decadal monitoring of shoreline and profile topography and tries to illuminate the natural and anthropogenic factors that drove geomorphological changes. The results showed that Sigeng beach undergone significant changes between 2008 and 2024, with notable accretion at the northernmost and southernmost and general erosion at other sections. The shoreline change rates ranged between -18.4 m/yr and 13.0 m/yr, with the average rate of -1.9 m/yr, indicating overall erosion. The net longshore sediment transport (LST) rates along Sigeng beach was estimated through the combination of the cross-shore (profile) and longshore (shoreline) changes. The overall direction of net LST along the beach were southward, except for the northern section where the direction was northward due to the diffraction of NE waves by the long sand spit at the northernmost. The net LST rates at each profile varied from 0.8×104 m³/yr to 3.5×104 m³/yr. The main factors controlling Sigeng beach evolution, including seasonal wave action and reduction in fluvial sediment load, followed by sand spit and coastal structures, typhoon events, aeolian transport, and sea level rise, were discussed. Subsequently, adaptive protection measures, including beach nourishment, accompanied with groin system or multiple detached breakwaters were proposed to combat with beach erosion. The analysis presented in this study is helpful to understand the morphodynamics and to predict the future change of beaches. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The Philippines has dynamically active coastal areas where sediment transport is a matter of concern due to its environmental implications, one of which is coastal erosion. Local studies have used seasonal beach profiling, shoreline tracing, and bathymetric analysis to provide relevant information on possible causes, trends, and adaptation strategies to address coastal erosion, but studies using numerical modelling of morphological dynamics are limited despite its capability to quantify different processes that is essential when an engineering intervention is necessary. This study uses numerical modelling in assessing coastal erosion and aims to model the hydrodynamics, waves, sediment transport and morphological dynamics of the study area using Delft3D. A 3-dimensional, coupled FLOW and WAVE model was set-up and calibrated to assess the transport of sediments and morphological dynamics in Ibajay, Aklan, one of the areas tagged as experiencing coastal erosion due to the presence of identifying physical features. The model was calibrated by comparing simulation results with measured time-series water level, bottom velocity, and wave parameters obtained from field surveys. Good agreement with measured parameters was observed after calibration, with root-mean-square-error of less than 10% of range of observed values at an observation point located 100 m off the coast at a depth of 8 m. The calibrated model was run for one year under prevailing (non-extreme) wind and wave conditions. Results showed two transport patterns caused by breaking of waves and strong currents near the lateral boundaries. It was determined that the shore is accreting with some erosion observed on the lateral boundaries caused by tidal asymmetry. Dry season months from November to April exhibited more active cross-shore transport due to intensifying of waves brought by the northeast monsoon while recovery of sand was observed during calmer conditions the rest of the year. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal erosion poses significant challenges to shoreline management, exacerbated by rising sea levels and changing climate patterns. This study investigates the influence of gap spacing between semicircular coastal defence structures on shoreline dynamics during storm events. The innovative design of these structures aims to induce a drift reversal of prevalent sediment transport while avoiding interruption of alongshore sediment drift, thus protecting the beach. Three different gap spacings, ranging from 152 m to 304 m, were analysed using the XBeach numerical model, focusing on storm morphodynamic behaviour. Methodologically, hydrodynamic and morphodynamic analyses were conducted to understand variations in significant wave heights adjacent to the structures, in accretion and erosion volumes, and changes in bed level under storm conditions. The study aims to elucidate the complex interaction between engineered coastal protection solutions and natural coastal processes, providing practical insights for coastal management practices. Results indicate that installing semicircular coastal defence structures influences sediment dynamics during storm events, effectively protecting stretches of the coast at risk. Optimal gap spacing between structures is crucial to mitigating coastal erosion and enhancing sediment accumulation, offering a sustainable shoreline protection approach. The findings underscore the importance of balanced location selection to optimize protection benefits while minimizing adverse morphological effects. Overall, this research contributes to advancing knowledge of hydro-morphological phenomena essential for effective coastal engineering and informs the design and implementation of more sustainable coastal protection strategies in the face of increasing coastal erosion and sea level rise challenges. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Numerical modeling of wave transformation, hydrodynamics, and morphodynamics in coastal regions holds paramount significance for combating coastal erosion by evaluating and optimizing various coastal protection structures. This study aims to present an integration of numerical models to accurately simulate the coastal processes with the presence of coastal and harbor structures. Specifically, integrated modeling employs an advanced mild slope model as the main driver, which is capable of describing all the wave transformation phenomena, including wave reflection. This model provides radiation stresses as inputs to a hydrodynamic model based on Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes equations to simulate nearshore currents. Ultimately, these models feed an additional model that can simulate longshore sediment transport and bed level changes. The models are validated against experimental measurements, including energy dissipation due to bottom friction and wave breaking; combined refraction, diffraction, and breaking over a submerged shoal; wave transformation and wave-generated currents over submerged breakwaters; and wave, currents, and sediment transport fields over a varying bathymetry. The models exhibit satisfactory performance in simulating all considered cases, establishing them as efficient and reliable integrated tools for engineering applications in real coastal areas. Moreover, leveraging the validated models, a numerical investigation is undertaken to assess the effects of wave reflection on a seawall on coastal processes for two ideal beach configurations—one with a steeper slope of 1:10 and another with a milder slope of 1:50. The numerical investigation reveals that the presence of reflected waves, particularly in milder bed slopes, significantly influences sediment transport, emphasizing the importance of employing a wave model that takes into account wave reflection as the primary driver for integrated modeling of coastal processes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Numerical models can be powerful tools for evaluating the best scenarios for the construction of artificial nourishments to mitigate coastal erosion. Until recent decades, when looking at medium- to long-term simulations, cross-shore and alongshore processes have been studied separately. Accounting for both processes in a shoreline evolution numerical model would improve the understanding and predictive capacity of future changes in coastline evolution. The AX-COAST project aims to develop new capacities in modeling cross-shore sediment transport processes by adding the CS-Model, a cross-shore numerical model, into the existing LTC (Long-Term Configuration) model. The LTC model is a shoreline evolution numerical model which is a module of the cost–benefit assessment tool COAST. This work presents the first steps of the CS-Model implementation, which involve evaluating its performance by calibrating the model with extensive measured datasets of wave climate, beach profiles, tide levels, etc., from coastal areas in IJmuiden and Sand Motor in the Netherlands. The results show good agreement between modeled and observed values. Additionally, wave climate datasets derived from global and regional wave models were considered to evaluate modeling performance at IJmuiden. Using derived timeseries from the wave models did not significantly lead to different results compared to using measured data. The obtained mean absolute and relative errors for each profile were low for both types of datasets. Calibration processes with consistent data are important in modeling simulations to accurately represent the study area and ensure the credibility of future simulations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This document is a compilation of various scientific articles and studies related to coastal engineering, beach nourishment, and shoreline dynamics. The references cover a wide range of topics, including the impacts of nourishment on shoreline response, the use of nature-based solutions for coastal erosion, and the effects of submerged breakwaters. They also discuss the role of waves, sediment transport, and beach profile change in beach nourishment, as well as the effects of nourishment on benthic fauna and the vulnerability of beaches to sea level rise. These references provide valuable information for researchers and decision-makers interested in these subjects. [Extracted from the article]

Developed barrier systems (barrier islands and spits) are lowering and narrowing with sea‐level rise (SLR) such that habitation will eventually become infeasible or prohibitively expensive for most communities in its current form. Before reaching this state, choices will be made to modify the natural and built environment to reduce relatively short‐term risk. These choices will likely vary substantially even along the same developed barrier system as these landscapes are rarely uniformly managed alongshore. Building on the results from a companion paper, here we use a new modeling framework to investigate the complexities in barrier system dynamics that emerge as a function of alongshore variability in management strategies, accelerations in SLR, and changes in storm intensity and frequency. Model results suggest that when connected through alongshore sediment transport, barriers with alongshore variable management strategies—here, the construction of dunes and wide beaches to protect either roadways or communities—evolve differently than they would in the absence of alongshore connections. Shoreline stabilization by communities in one location influences neighboring areas managed solely for roadways, inducing long‐term system‐wide lags in shoreline retreat. Conversely, when barrier segments managed for roadways are allowed to overwash, this induces shoreline curvature system‐wide, thus enhancing erosion on nearby stabilized segments. Feedbacks between dunes, storms, overwash flux, and alongshore sediment transport also affect outcomes of climate adaptation measures. In the case of partial, early abandonment of roadway management, we find that system‐wide transitions to less vulnerable landscape states are possible, even under accelerated SLR and increased storminess. Plain Language Summary: Because humans inhabit barrier islands and spits (collectively referred to as "barriers") these landscapes, that would otherwise naturally change shape in response to storms and sea‐level rise (SLR), are influenced by efforts to protect development with wide beaches and tall dunes. These features interfere with a process called overwash, which transports sand landward during storms, building barrier elevation relative to sea level. Here, we use a new model to better understand how these interactions influence the habitability of barriers over time. Our simulations show that different management decisions made for adjacent coastal segments affect each other in positive and negative ways. When communities nourish beaches, adjacent to segments managed for roadways, some nourished sand reaches the adjacent segments, reducing shoreline erosion there. Conversely, portions of barriers that are managed only for roadways allow some overwash to reach the barrier interior; this negatively affects neighboring communities by enhancing their shoreline erosion rates. We find that early abandonment of dune management along portions of barriers may prevent highly vulnerable future states, such as barrier drowning. As communities explore choices for climate adaptation, our findings reveal the importance of coordination among decision makers in adjacent communities to avoid undesirable outcomes. Key Points: When management strategies vary alongshore, their effects are coupled via alongshore sediment redistribution, influencing barrier evolutionBeach nourishment (along portions of barriers) induces system‐wide lags in shoreline retreat, even decades after nourishment practices ceaseMore overwash (due to lower dunes or increased storminess) can prolong habitability, but drives increased nourishment frequency elsewhere [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study, a swash-zone model, using Larson and Wamsley formula (LW07), was combined into the Telemac-2D model system to examine the performance of modeling swash-zone processes through comparisons with field observation data. The experimental site was the Haeundae Beach in South Korea where Typhoon Phanfone occurred in October 2014, and bathymetric surveys were performed before and after the typhoon. Hydrodynamic data were also measured to validate the modeled data. The performance of LW07 was tested by running the model in two modes, with and without LW07. First, the model was run to simulate the shoreline response to an imaginary coastal breakwater. The result showed a clear discrepancy between the two modes as the sediments were considerably cumulated behind the breakwater in the case with the swash-zone formula (LW07) in the wide range along the shoreline behind the breakwater, indicating that the sediments more actively and rapidly responded to the shadowing by the breakwater with LW07. The model was also run for a realistic case from August to October 2014, which included the typhoon's period during 2–6 October. The results showed that the morphological changes at both ends of the beach in the swash zone were simulated with higher accuracy with LW07, supporting the effectiveness of LW07 in simulating the short-term morphological changes induced by the typhoon attack. In particular, the successful simulation of the sand accumulation at the end sides of the beach's swash zone indicates that LW07 was effective in estimating not only the cross-shore transport but also longshore transport, which was likely due to the characteristics of LW07 that calculated sand transport in both directions. The enhanced modeling performance with LW07 was likely due to the adjustment of the sediment transport rate to the instantaneous changes in the local beach slope, which could successfully control the erosion/accretion process in the swash zone more realistically. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study, laboratory experiments were conducted to investigate the influence of changes in storm wave height and water level on beach response in a medium-scale wave flume. A schematic storm was simulated (rising, apex, and waning phases). A non-intrusive photogrammetric method was used to collect high-resolution and synchronous data regarding the free surface water elevation and bed level, from which shoreline location, sandbar position, cross-shore sediment transport rates, and nonlinear wave parameters were derived. The cross-shore sediment transport was in agreement with previous laboratory measurements, including the monotonous exchange from foreshore erosion to shoaling zone accretion in most stages of the storm simulation. The surf zone was the main region supplying sediment for beach morphology modification and sandbar generation. The degree of storm erosion was not completely determined by the largest wave height and water level or the cumulative wave power of the apex phase. The largest gradients of the wave parameter sequence change occurred in the rising phase, and this was the main factor generating efficient beachface erosion. It induced an increase in sandbar size, accompanied by the cross-shore motion of maximum velocity amplitude, more violent disturbances of wave nonlinearity, and increased surf zone erosion, with these factors increasing beach instability and leading to more severe storm erosion. The large wave height and water level resulted in shoreline retreat, with a more significant swash zone erosion under a higher runup. The offshore sediment transport turned toward the onshore direction as the original large sandbar deteriorated under the decreasing wave parameter sequence in the waning phase. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Sandy beaches have different shoreline change rates (i.e., erosion/accretion rates). An erosive process on beaches poses risks for human-occupied areas. One example is Matinhos Beach (state of Paraná - Brazil), which has an average annual erosion rate of around 1.5 m yr-1 This study applied a methodology that combines in situ measurements and numerical modeling to simulate the physical processes in the coastal area of Matinhos during the 2018 Austral winter. Monthly DGPS surveys were carried out in the study area from June to September. The MOHID modeling system was applied to simulate hydrodynamics and sediment transport, considering waves and tidal forcing validated with in situ data. The WAVEWATCH III and SWAN models were applied in a nesting approach to simulate the waves at Matinhos Beach. The GFS was used to assess the wind conditions. The study period showed a dynamic evolution of accretion and erosion between monthly measurements with no clear pattern in most profiles. Significant sand accumulation was observed near the headland. Morphological changes were minor due to the predominance of low energy without significant storm events. The measured morphological changes are in line with the residual littoral drift obtained from the modeling results for the period. The residual current velocities were towards the southwest, with magnitudes ranging from 0.15 m s-1 to 0.2 m s-1. A slight variation in the angle of wave incidence (10°) may change the direction (southwest or northeast) and intensity of the littoral drift. The applied methodology can reduce uncertainty and support effective coastal management. However, the seasonal scales of wave climate cannot be disregarded, nor can the need for coastal oceanographic data. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This work presents a new model for surf and swash zone morphology evolution induced by nonlinear waves. Wave transformation in the surf and swash zones is computed by a nonlinear wave model based on the higher order Boussinesq equations for breaking and non-breaking waves. Regarding sediment transport, the model builds on previous research by the authors and incorporates the latest update of a well-founded sediment transport formula. The wave and morphology evolution model is validated against two sets of experiments on beach profile change and is afterwards used to test the performance of a widely-adopted erosion/accretion criterion. The innovation of this work is the validation of a new Boussinesq-type morphology model under both erosive and accretive conditions at the foreshore (accretion is rarely examined in similar studies), which the model reproduces very well without modification of the empirical coefficients of the sediment transport formula used; furthermore, the model confirms the empirical erosion/accretion criterion even for conditions beyond the ones it was developed for and without imposing any model constraints. The presented set of applications highlights model capabilities in simulating swash morphodynamics, as well as its suitability for coastal erosion mitigation and beach restoration design [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This document is a correction notice for an article titled "Spatio-Temporal Morphodynamics of a Nourished Sandy Shore Based on LiDAR Measurements." The correction addresses errors in the original publication, specifically inappropriate citations in the Discussion section. The correction provides the correct references and clarifies the phenomenon of heightened dune erosion in the area, attributing it to long, oblique depressions in the bottom topography. The correction also discusses the ongoing coastal protection efforts on the Hel Peninsula in Poland and the causes of erosion in the area. The authors state that the scientific conclusions of the article are unaffected by the correction. [Extracted from the article]

The main purpose of the research was to develop appropriate tools for forecasting the effects of storms. The use of the high-resolution SWAN wave model powered by AROME wind fields to couple it with the SWANOneSed sediment transport model and a model using the Ruggiero formula, predicting the extent of the flooded shore, allowed the development of reliable tools for forecasting the effects of storms. Validation using qualitative analysis showed that the results obtained from the coupled SWANOneSed model are characterized by high consistency in intensification and direction of changes. The model using the Ruggiero formula obtained a high value of the correlation coefficient, i.e. 0.970 and 0.992 for the Satbałtyk-Xbeach model data, based on the Hunt&Mase formula, and the high-resolution Pleiades Neo satellite data, respectively. By combining models from the SWAN family, i.e. the SWAN and SWANOneSed wave model and a model using the Ruggiero formula, it was possible to obtain reliable and compatible tools enabling an uninterrupted and synchronized operational process of generating forecasts of storm effects. [Display omitted] • The coupling of the SWAN & SWANOneSed enables reliable and operational forecasting. • Measured & terrain surveyed data-fed model are consistent with other observed data. • Formula van Rijn reliably reproduces sediment transport in various types of coasts. • The Ruggiero formula is applicable in various parts of the Polish coast. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Understanding sediment transport processes on natural sandy beaches is essential for gaining insights into beach recovery and making effective coastal management decisions. This study examines surfzone sediment transport rates related to beachface morphological variations on an embayed mesotidal sandy beach located on the northwestern coast of the Baja California Peninsula in Mexico. Data were collected during a week-long field experiment conducted in June 2016 under low-to-moderate wave energy conditions (H s = 0.4 − 1.3 m). Daily topographical surveys and continuous measurements of near-bottom suspended sediment fluxes were conducted alongside the application of an extended energetics-based model that accounted for velocity and acceleration skewness. Results reveal contrasting accretionary and erosive patterns in the inner surfzone, along with consistent sediment deposition in the swash zone throughout the study period. Onshore sediment transport is found to be related to short-period calm wave conditions (H s < 0.7 m; T p < 10 s) and a weak undertow (<0.2 ms−1). Alongshore nonuniform wave breaking, influenced by irregular bathymetry and moderate-energetic oblique waves from the northwest, contributes to an alongshore gradient in sediment transport rate, leading to erosion in the northern part of the intertidal beach and accretion in the southern part. Suspended sediment flux measurements at 0.2 m above the bed suggest offshore mean transport predominates over oscillatory transport throughout the field experiment. Nevertheless, this observation should be interpreted with caution, as the flux is not vertically integrated across the water column and does not consider fluid acceleration. The model predictions effectively replicate sediment transport rates and consequent volumetric changes (Accuracy = 55– 63 % ; RMSE = 44–69 m3; Bias = − 2 to −61 m3), although they underestimate observed accretion by a factor of three and overestimate erosion by a factor of two. Overall, this research highlights the complexities of natural sandy beach recovery processes in mesotidal environments and emphasizes the importance of considering both cross-shore and longshore components in sediment transport assessments. [Display omitted] • Beachface accretion remains consistent under low-to-moderate wave conditions. • Combined velocity- and acceleration-skewness model reproduces onshore sediment transport, but underestimates beachface accretion. • Erosive and accretive surfzone patterns are linked to nonuniform wave breaking influenced by bathymetry. • Undertow significantly governs offshore sediment flux near the seabed within the surfzone. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

• Flume experiments were conducted to assess the impact of submerged flexible vegetation on regular wave attenuation and beach morphology. • The presence of vegetation prevented further erosion of the beach, resulting in a reduction of 7% to 63% in experiments. • The attenuation caused by vegetation results in the wave breaking point being closer to the shoreline on vegetated sand, leading to shoreline retreat. • A dimensionless equation was developed to characterize the behaviour of the cross-shore beach profile under the protection of flexible vegetation. Coastal protection methods are evolving from hard engineering techniques to natural enhancement approaches. Aquatic vegetation provides an environmentally friendly solution by effectively dissipating waves and resisting erosion. Laboratory flume experiments were conducted to investigate the effect of submerged flexible vegetation on the regular wave attenuation and cross-shore profiles on the artificial plane beach under varying hydraulic conditions. Variations in the waveform, wave spectrum, and wave height were analysed in the vegetation zone. Results show vegetation distorts the waveform and accelerates the attenuation process of the wave energy, and wave height evolution behaves differently from the theoretically obtained attenuation by Mendez and Losada (2004) due to the underestimating vegetation-induced attenuation and neglecting sediment-induced attenuation. Additionally, the formation process of the winter and summer profiles of the vegetated beach was analysed by the screenshots. Regenerated wave breaking becomes more apparent with increasing wave periods. The critical surf similarity parameter of the vegetated beaches was found to be lower than that of a smooth, impermeable slope because of the energy dissipation. Vegetation did not alter the type of the beach profiles, as compared to the final profiles and their characteristic parameters of the unvegetated beaches. Instead, it reduced the erosion depth and brought the eroded area closer to the shoreline. Dimensionless parameters were formulated to characterize the response of the cross-shore beach profile under the shelter of flexible vegetation, and an empirical equation about maximum erosion depth was developed within the scope of the experiment. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

While the impact of the spatio/temporal variability of grain size on morphological beach state is reasonably well understood, relatively little is known on its impact at a scale of days/months on aeolian sediment transport. This study focuses on five short intensive wind events during which aeolian sediment transport measurements, beach surface sampling and elevation change surveys were carried out for 1 to 3 days, over a 16-month period on a microtidal beach dominated by offshore winds. Monthly observations show a high temporal variability in beach grain size in relation to the decoupling between hydrodynamic and aeolian processes, from medium sand after a marine storm and inundation of the beach, to very coarse sand after several weeks of storm-force winds. During each wind event, topographic change on the beach ranged from zero, to 0.55 m. The time scale of coarsening depended on the initial beach grain size and could be very fast when the beach was composed of medium sand (e.g. 388 μm sand changed to coarse sand of 547 μm in 40 h). In contrast, it took one month to transition from a coarse median beach grain size of 883 μm to a very coarse one of 1323 μm. This variability in grain size results in dramatically different rates of sediment flux. For example, during average wind speeds of 10 to 14 m/s the sediment flux when the beach was composed of medium sized sand ranged between 21 and 154 kg/m/h compared to 0.4 to 50 kg/m/h when the beach was composed of coarse and very coarse sized grains. Overall, this study highlights the importance of beach grain size variability on aeolian sediment transport and shows that for similar incident wind and climatic conditions aeolian sediment transport rates vary dramatically. The study demonstrates the importance of taking care when using a constant median grain size in the calculation of long-term aeolian sand transport on beaches with heterogeneous spatial and temporal beach grain size variability. • Transport rates can be ten times greater on medium-sized beach than coarse one. • Offshore wind generate a grain size sorting, the finest sands are exported seaward. • Topographic variations of the beach depends on its grain size and sand supply. • The return of fine sediments depends on marine storms occurrence and intensities. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

An approach involving data on wave-induced sediment transport estimates is essential for managing coastal environments. Numerical models are powerful tools to understand and investigate many processes responsible for longshore sediment transport (LST) in a systematic way, since direct measurement of LST is a difficult task. This paper presents estimates of longshore sediment transport through numerical modeling of wave-induced sediment dispersion patterns in the Formosa Bay, State of Rio de Janeiro - Southeast Brazil. The analysis was conducted using the computational package Coastal Modeling System/SMC-Brazil and mathematical formulations proposed by Cerc (1984). The results suggest average residual solid discharge (Qsr avg) in the order of 131,442.745 m3/yr in northern sector, −151,908.32 m3/yr in central sector, and 71,987.69 m3/yr in southern sector of investigated area. In addition, it is important to highlight that minor variations in the wave incidence angle may cause changes in the longshore sediment drift, promoting the convergence and divergence zones throughout the investigated area. The results presented contribute to the advancement of knowledge on the topic addressed here and will be useful in future engineering projects related to beach nourishment and the management of coastal areas subject to erosion processes. • Data are presented on simulations of wave-induced longshore sediment transport rates in Baia Formosa Bay, southeastern Brazil. • The Coastal Modeling System SMC/Brazil were used. • Results suggest different solid outflow rates for each sector of investigated area. • The model may provide a basis for planning actions and environmental management in coastal zones. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Beach loss is a growing global challenge that threatens the safety of coastal communities, the health of coastal ecosystems, recreational amenities, and regional economies dependent on tourism. Spatial gradients in longshore sediment transport, or divergence of drift (DoD), is a primary driver of beach width change over multi-annual time scales, but the response of any particular beach can be challenging to characterize and predict. Here we present a new method to characterize DoD using a non-uniform segmentation of the coastline informed by the spatial distribution of longshore transport potential, including the location of physical barriers identified using satellite imagery, and both maxima and reversals in longshore transport potential derived from nearshore wave data. The method demonstrates improved capacity to predict beach width trends at sandy beaches compared to methods that rely on a uniform segmentation of the coastline. In an application to southern California where satellite data documents two decades of beach width change, the non-uniform segmentation method correctly predicts the sign of beach trends at 93% of transects within a littoral cell and achieves a linear correlation between DoD and beach width trends exceeding 0.8. Moreover, we find that a minimum of five years of data are required to establish consistently strong correlations between DoD and beach width changes. Conversely, use of a uniform segmentation is shown to be unreliable for estimating beach width trends due to strong sensitivities to shoreline segment size. This work shows the potential to leverage nearshore wave data and satellite-based beach width data for improved characterization of shoreline dynamics relevant to beach erosion management. • A new shoreline modeling method is presented for estimating divergence of drift. • Segment boundaries are identified using longshore transport characteristics. • Strong correlations were shown between divergence of drift and beach width trends. • A littoral Peclet number characterizes the dominant longshore transport mechanism. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper presents the use of an Eulerian–Eulerian multi-phase model to examine sediment transport over a gravel beach under regular waves. A previously published full-scale experiment is reproduced numerically; the simulated wave deformation, flow velocity, pore pressure, and morphological evolution are consistent with measurements. The multi-phase model can produce berm formation for smaller waves and beach erosion for larger waves as observation in previous field studies. The sensitivity analysis suggests that the nonlinear component of drag has significant effect on the berm formation through infiltration and exfiltration. The two simulated forces applied on the sediment (drag and buoyancy) are examined. The drag is the main force directly for sediment transport; therefore the sediment transport rate has high correlation with depth-averaged flow velocity. The buoyancy that is caused by plunging flow impacting beach face can push the sediment landward in the bore front, where the flow acceleration has its peak. The flow acceleration is considered in some previous sediment transport models empirically for simulating morphological evolution of gravel beach under waves. The buoyancy links the flow acceleration and sediment transport rate in the bore front. • Sediment transport in a gravel beach is simulated using a multiphase model. • The drag is the main force directly for sediment transport. • The buoyancy links the flow acceleration and sediment transport rate in the bore front. • The nonlinear drag has the effect on berm formation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Storm surge, a major disaster in coastal areas, is generated by tropical cyclones. Strong currents and waves during storm surges often cause sediment transport and beach erosion, significantly damaging the coastal ecosystem. This paper presents a flow-wave-sediment-morphodynamic coupled model to predict morphodynamic changes caused by overwash during storm surges. In the model, the flow field is calculated using the generalized shallow water equations coupled with the Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) model, while sediment transport and bed changes are computed using a non-equilibrium total-load sediment transport model. The model solves the governing equations by employing the explicit finite-volume approach based on a rectangular mesh. The Godunov-type central upwind scheme is adopted to calculate the interface fluxes, thereby solving the complex Riemann problem. A series of numerical experiments considering wave-induced longshore current and short-term bed erosion are conducted to validate the established model and demonstrate its ability to simulate waves, flow fields, and bed changes during storm surge. Specifically, we used the model to simulate the morphological evolution of the Santa Rosa barrier island caused by Hurricane Ivan's storm surge, and the results indicate that the model accurately predicts the real-case erosion process caused by storm surge and overwash during the hurricane. The simulated results clearly explain overwash development, including washover fans, foredune erosion, and back-barrier deposition. It demonstrates that the front dune significantly eroded with the Santa Rosa barrier island coastline retreating by a maximum of about 80 m during the storm surge. More than three breaches with a width of up to 135 m were formed on the sandy barrier due to wave overwash, while the topography at the breach changed significantly. • A new flow-wave-sediment-morphodynamic coupled model is developed to predict morphodynamic changes caused by overwash during storm surges. • A series of numerical experiments conducted using the new model demonstrates its ability and it successfully predicts the overwash erosion of the Santa Rosa barrier island during Hurricane Ivan's storm surge. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]