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The basic requirements of a garment in use and basic techniques in garment manufacture are briefly discussed. The relevant mechanical properties, of buckling, compression in the plane of the fabric and shearing are described and methods of measurement are indicated. It is argued that there are upper and lower limits to some of these properties in order to obtain fabrics with optimum performance. A few cases of forming a flat fabric into a three-dimensional shell are discussed and their relationship to mechanical properties is indicated. A property termed "formability" of a fabric is defined. To retain a given form the fabric must be set. and it is shown that, for stitching with overfeed, there is a definite relationship between settability, formability and the degree of overfeed. Dimensional stability is discussed and measured with relation to steaming, wetting and steam pressing. It is shown how dimensional changes will influence two different layers of fabric stitched together, and how this depends on formability ; also that steaming will produce a good dimensional equilibrium in a fabric regardless of other treatments such as wetting and pressing. Storing changes the dimensions towards those of the steamed fabric. A method which can be used in practice is suggested for measuring dimensional changes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The basic requirements of a garment in use and basic techniques in garment manufacture are briefly discussed. The relevant mechanical properties, of buckling, compression in the plane of the fabric and shearing are described and methods of measurement are indicated. It is argued that there are upper and lower limits to some of these properties in order to obtain fabrics with optimum performance. A few cases of forming a flat fabric into a three-dimensional shell are discussed and their relationship to mechanical properties is indicated. A property termed "formability" of a fabric is defined. To retain a given form the fabric must be set, and it is shown that, for stitching with overfeed, there is a definite relationship between settability, formability and the degree of overfeed. Dimensional stability is discussed and measured with relation to steaming, wetting and steam pressing. It is shown how dimensional changes will influence two different layers of fabric stitched together, and how this depends on formability also that steaming will produce a good dimensional equilibrium in a fabric regardless of other treatments such as wetting and pressing. Storing changes the dimensions towards those of the steamed fabric. A method which can be used in practice is suggested for measuring dimensional changes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The finishing of fabrics made from blends of Acrilan and wool is described. The process includes a heat-treatment and a washing-off process, easily carried out on commercial machinery. The mechanical properties of a selection of wool, Acrilan and Acrilan/wool cloths were measured. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Tyre-cord fatigue occurs most commonly when a cord is subjected to cyclic longitudinal compression. An experimental and theoretical study of the behaviour of two-fold cord under compressive stress is related to appropriate physical constants and the standard twisted structure of tyre cord in current use. Lateral displacement of cord foldings is shown to relieve the filamentary stress except at lower twist levels, where buckling of the structure is seen to occur. The study therefore supports the view that tyre cord must satisfy two conditions in order to operate satisfactorily under compressive stress, i.e. : (i) avoidance of lower twists where buckling occurs; and (ii) operation in the upper twist range, where filamentary stress and strain are reduced with increasing twist, the precise twist levels being determined by operating conditions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The modes of breakage of twisted continuous-filament yams are examined; and it is found that, for short specimens and slow rates of loading, the break occurs in two distinct stages. Yarns in which only the first stage of break has taken place are examined, and the mechanism of breakage is discussed. The effects of buckling, filament deformation, and migration on breaking extension are examined. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The migration pattern in a seven-ply structure is predicted theoretically on the assumption that the centre filament moves to an outer layer only when it is slack. The frequency of migration is dependent on the twist, the twisting tension, the free length in the twisting zone, the tension resulting from an extension of the yarn, and the degree of buckling needed to initiate migration. If the tension is high enough, migration will be prevented. The theoretical predictions were confirmed by a study of the twisting of seven 100-denier twisted viscose rayon yarns on an apparatus specially constructed to twist model yarn samples. The order of migration indicated that, of the six yarns in the outer layer, the yarn which had last migrated had a low, but not zero, probability of moving back to the centre, but that the other five had equal probability. Subsidiary experiments were performed on Courlene monofilaments and zero-twist rayon yarns. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

As part of a study of fabric drape, the fabric-shearing apparatus due to Mömer and Eeg-Olofsson has been built and studied. Methods of expressing the results are given and the variability of the results has been measured. The effect of tension on the specimen has been measured and a model is given which may be used to explain the shape of the hysteresis diagrams. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A series of apparel fabrics were bonded both to a cotton base cloth and to a worsted base cloth. The fabrics were then wrinkled by the AKU tester under wet and standard atmospheric conditions, and their wrinkle severity was determined by means of the Sivim Wrinklemeter. Buckling and cantilever tests were also made, and the wrinkling behaviour and bending performance were compared. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

After a phenomenological discussion of elasticity, viscosity, friction, and plasticity in textile structures, rheological models of coupled frictional, elastic, and plastic elements of finite and infinitesimal types are demonstrated, and their stress-strain behaviour is derived. These models are applied to deformation-recovery phenomena of textile fabrics in extension, shearing, bending-buckling, and creasing, and theoretical conclusions are compared with experimental results. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article elaborates some key aspects of the structure of the cotton hair, specifically the morphology of the cell wall. The structures investigated by several researchers are considered more or less interdependent as regards causation. The points elaborated by the author include striations and the spiral structure of the wall, convolutions, slip planes, Monsenthal's pits, buckling lines abnormalities, hair growth relationship and conformation, the surface of the cotton hair, the central canal and the cross section, the porosity of the wall, and the mechanism of wall deposition and the formation of striations.

Tailorability involves fabric properties which are arranged systematically. Additional methods of determining steam-setting behaviour during bending and compressional deformations have been devised. Basic tests of a published theory and the corresponding measurements, have been made by joining fabric strips of different lengths by double seams. Experimental results and their divergence from theory have been discussed with a view to continuing the current investigations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The paucity of information about the fine structure of cuticle cells, in animal hair and wool fibres, has been a major factor in the general failure to advance a theory capable of explaining quantitatively the origin of the Directional Frictional Effect. Electron microscope studies have been made covering : (i) surface replications, (ii) examination of fibre profiles, and (iii) thin sectioning. Significant differences have been found between the surface textures of replicas of various wool fibres. However, because of the lack of equipment for the quantitative interpretation of stereo electron-micrographs, the direct examination of fibre profiles was undertaken. Thus, information was obtained about the height and frequency of the distribution of cuticle cell edges along the fibre axis, together with other information about the surface asperities. Thin sections (both transverse and longitudinal) yielded information about the type and extent of radial and peripheral overlapping of cuticle cells ; also, the various ways in which they are attached to their neighbours. The idealized model of a cuticle cell, emerging from these studies, could account for the two distinctly different mechanisms of deformation, namely buckling and compression, under forces acting in the direction of fibre-root and fibre-tip respectively. Evidence was obtained providing further, if not conclusive, proof of the "ploughing" action, operative during motion in the tip-to-root direction. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Studies the concept and meaning of homily based on the Blickling Homilies, the manuscripts of which is in the library of Blickling Hall, Norfolk, England. Interlace structure in the Blickling Homilies; Pattern of English sermons.

A cellular material can be represented as an assembly of many small columns connected in a three-dimensional network. In many cases closed cells are also present. During the deformation of this type of material, many complex mechanical phenomena occur. [ABSTRACT FROM PUBLISHER]

An account is given of an experimental investigation of the cylindrical snarling of highly twisted monofilaments. The theory underlying cylindrical snarling is set out, and an expression is derived for calculating the critical twist level at which normal snarling will be replaced by cylindrical snarling. Experiments on rubber filaments are described, and it is shown that there is good agreement between the theoretical and experimental results. Further experiments, in which the specimen was allowed to contract freely or forced into other forms, are also described. It is shown from these experiments that it is difficult to establish the true equilibrium behaviour, since the situation appears to be dominated by frictional effects or by direct barriers to relative movement. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The problems involved in making a mechanical analysis of bending deformations in textile fabrics are discussed. It is suggested that progress can be made by making simplifying assumptions concerning the geometry of fabric structure and deformation and using energy considerations to calculate forces and moments. Certain simple examples are given of the usefulness of this approach. A foundation is laid for the construction of a computer model that will, it is hoped, simulate the viscoelastic bending and creasing behaviour of textile fabrics from a knowledge of the bending and torsional viscoelastic properties of the constituent fibre(s) and their relative geometrical arrangement. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]