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The sourcing of raw materials with low environmental impact, e.g., “upcycled” ingredients from short supply chains, has currently become necessary, and agri-food waste represents a very attractive hub to produce innovative cosmetic extracts. In this paper, an integrated approach considering all the different steps, starting from material selection, extraction, chemical characterization, biological activity evaluation, and environmental impact calculation, was adopted to obtain innovative, sustainable, and effective cosmetic raw materials from food waste. As case report, a supercritical CO2 extract obtained from wild-strawberry-processing waste after jam production (WSWSCO2 extract) was developed. The fatty acids profile of the waste material and WSWSCO2 extract was investigated via a GC–MS method, and mainly polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) such as linoleic and linolenic acids were detected. Furthermore, the ability of the WSWSCO2 extract to inhibit 5α-reductase type 1 expression in skin fibroblasts was assessed, confirming significant efficacy at the dose of 5 mg/mL. Finally, in view of the eco-sustainability approach, the environmental impact related to WSWSCO2 extract was calculated using a life cycle assessment (LCA) analytical approach, considering different parameters and indicators (e.g., carbon footprint) and verifying the eco-friendly approach in extract development and production. Although further research is needed, for example, to check the full composition of the extract and its effect on skin cells, these results suggest that the WSWSCO2 extract may represent an innovative and sustainable ingredient for cosmetic applications especially in topical preparation for the treatment of some androgenic-related discomfort, such as acne and androgenic alopecia, reflecting the potentiality of the holistic and pioneering approach related to ingredient development presented in this study for the cosmetic sector.

Secondary metabolites from the sawmill waste Picea abies bark were extracted using an innovative two-step extraction that includes a first step with supercritical CO2 (SCO2) and a second step using green solvents, namely ethanol, water, and water ethanol mixture. Maceration (M), ultrasound assisted extraction (UAE) and microwave assisted extraction (MAE) techniques were applied in the second step. A total of nineteen extract were obtained and yield were compared. Bark extracts were characterized by LC-DAD-MSn and classes of compounds were quantified as abietane derivatives, piceasides, flavonoids, and phenolics to compare different extractions. Obtained extracts were studied by in vitro assay to evaluate potential pharmaceutical, nutraceutical and cosmetic uses assessing the antioxidant activity as well as the inhibitory activity on target enzymes. Results show that the “smart extraction chain” is advantageous in term of yield of extraction and phytoconstituent concentration. SCO2 extract, presenting a unique composition with a large amount of abietane derivatives, exerted the best activity for amylase inhibition compared to the other extracts.

Products based on plants containing hydroxyanthracene derivatives (HADs)—such as Rheum, Cassia, and Aloe species—are widely used in food supplements or nutraceuticals due to their laxative effects. A more restricted control of HAD contents in food supplements has been implemented by EU Regulation 2021/468, in order to increase the safety of these preparations. Due to their toxicity, aloin A, aloin B, aloe emodin, emodin, and the synthetic derivative danthron have been listed as prohibited substances in food supplements, being tolerated in amounts < 1 mg kg−1 in marketed products. In this work, we report the development of a sensitive and fast LC–DAD–MS-based procedure for the determination of these five compounds in food supplements and plant materials or extracts. The entire procedure includes a simple sample preparation step, where target analytes are concentrated by means of solvent extraction and evaporative concentration (solid samples), or by lyophilisation (liquid samples). The average LOQ of 0.10 mg/L, LOD of 0.03 mg/L, accuracy, and precision with CVs below 12.72 were obtained for the studied analytes. This method is suitable for assessing the compliance of commercial products and raw materials with EU Regulation 2021/468. Furthermore, the proposed method can represent a starting point for the development of a unique and standardised analytical approach for the determination of other HADs under the attention of EU authorities.