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Les migrations sont encore trop rarement abordees sous l’angle de la consommation et de la culture materielle. Pourtant, les migrants n’arrivent pas dans leur nouvelle vie sans passe ou habitudes. Ils apportent avec eux des plats et des ingredients culinaires, des rituels de beaute, des codes vestimentaires, des normes corporelles... qui se diffusent et modifient les pratiques de consommation de la societe « dominante », souvent par le biais d’entrepreneurs migrants. A travers la publication...

S’interesser a la consommation de cosmetiques des femmes noires et metissees a Paris et a Berlin, c’est plonger au cœur de deux societes et de deux histoires migratoires, coloniales et postcoloniales. C’est s’interroger sur la presence (ou non) de modeles de beaute « de couleur » dans les medias nationaux, sur la disponibilite (ou non) d’une offre commerciale dediee a cette beaute qui aurait pignon sur rue. En contrepoint, l’etude des pratiques du quotidien des femmes concernees permet d’analyser leurs mises en recit de soi. Aussi, la black beauty n’en finit-elle pas de bousculer les marches pour affirmer sa place dans la ville et pour lutter contre les categorisations sociales dont elle fait l’objet.

This paper focuses on the beauty and sartorial choices of young French Muslim women in the Paris area. Through biographies on their morning rituals, this article questions the notion of cosmopolitanism when it comes to their veiling practices. Research suggests that these young women, through their double presence in the world – as French citizens and as global citizens – are powerful agents of change of the dominant material culture and consumption. Their varied beauty and sartorial choices help them construct a coherent inner and outer self and manage social and gendered interactions, facilitating circulation. It is argued that wearing the hijab can be conceptualized as a new form of cosmopolitanism, neither ‘from below’ nor ‘from above’: it reframes a Eurocentric view of conflicts between religious and secular discourses in postcolonial times, as well as French fashion.

Cet ouvrage vise à documenter une série d'échanges scientifiques francoallemands qui se sont déroulés entre 2015 et 2017 sur la figure du consommateur immigré. À travers cinq rencontres, l'ambition était de faire émerger un nouveau champ de recherche, croisant deux thématiques traditionnellement abordées séparément - celle des migrations d'une part, et celle de la consommation d'autre part - et de faire dialoguer des historiographies qui se connaissent peu du fait de la barrière de la langue ...

International audience; Une invitation à découvrir les recherches menées en France et en Allemagne sur la thématique du consommateur immigré.Cet ouvrage vise à documenter une série d’échanges scientifiques franco‑allemands qui se sont déroulés entre 2015 et 2017 sur la figure du consommateur immigré. À travers cinq rencontres, l’ambition était de faire émerger un nouveau champs de recherche, croisant deux thématiques traditionnellement abordées séparément - celle des migrations d’une part, et celle de la consommation d’autre part - et de faire dialoguer des historiographies qui se connaissent peu ou pas du tout du fait de la barrière de la langue et du manque de réception des travaux existants.

International audience; With a rapidly growing number of consumers experiencing migration around the world, the need for new research methodologies to understand ethnic consumption becomes more pressing for managers operating in global markets. The objective of this contribution is to show that Greimasian semiotics is a very relevant interpretive framework to capture the symbolic and dynamic dimensions of ethnicity. In the context of a three-cities research programme (Paris, Berlin, Kuala Lumpur), we use the spatial identity semiotic square to interpret consumers' discourses in the context of dominated and non-dominated acculturation experiences. We show that informants' discourses are structured around four identity anchors and that dual culture consumers use products, brands, ingredients and retail environments to construct their identites. Managing two spatial reference points within a coherent self can be, at times, challenging for consumers coming from "third" or "first" world countries. The issue is even more pressing for ethnic consumers who experience discrimination, since they are constantly reminded of their difference. This research confirms the relevance of semiotics, in terms of market research methodology, for grasping the deeper symbolic dimensions of ethnic consumers' discourse.

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to focus on mothers as key influencers in luxury retailing contexts. Design/methodology/approach Using a semiotic interpretation of mothers’ discourses, the authors underline the identity motivations for purchasing luxury apparel for their pre-adolescent children. Findings The paper shows that when shopping for luxury brands for their pre-adolescent children, mothers manage discrepancies between their “real” and “idealised” selves as well as the pushes and pulls of being a mother and a woman. Research limitations/implications The findings point to possible future research on this topic, particularly with regard to investigating how luxury stores and retailers can adapt so as to satisfy mothers’ identity quest. Practical implications Managers of luxury brand retail spaces looking at the future of retailing could analyse their store environment in the light of these mothers’ identity-related motivations. As well as focussing on how children look, store layout and merchandising should provide different spaces for mothers’ identity expression, using new in-store digital technologies. Originality/value This study is one of the first to analyse luxury shopping for children taking the point of view of mothers. The paper underlines how young mothers build their new maternal identity and their projected relationship with their child through purchases of children’s luxury goods in specific retail environments.

International audience