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Sediment exchange between the shoreface and the foreshore is investigated through the analysis of sandbar and berm migration cycles at La Misión beach in Baja California, Mexico. In general, nearshore sandbars migrate onshore during low-energy wave conditions merging with the shoreline to become intertidal sandbars that later contribute to berm rebuilding. However, significant alongshore differences were observed in the sandbar welding and berm rebuilding process, which can be attributed to alongshore wave skewness and near-surfzone flow variations. The analysis of topographic and bathymetric surveys collected monthly over a 5-year period revealed larger shoreline retreat and longer recovery times in the southern beach compared to the north. This was related to the inability of sandbars to weld to the intertidal beach during spring and summer, occurring only during extended periods of low-energy waves. In the southern beach, the berm formation process exhibited less dependence on incoming wave energy, persisting during mild-energy winters, and reforming in the presence of sandbars. Hydrodynamic measurements indicated that the southern part of the beach experienced relatively more intense net offshore flows (up to −0.2 ms−1) due to undertow, and possibly related to the presence of persistent rip currents. In contrast, the berm in the northern beach followed a seasonal erosion and rebuilding process associated with sandbar migrations driven by variations in incoming wave energy and cross-shore sediment transport. This was characterized by larger near-bed wave velocity skewness compared to the south. Net flows in the north were predominantly onshore, reaching up to 0.1 ms−1 during lower-energy periods with oblique wave incidence. This study reveals the presence of considerably distinct sandbar and berm migration cycles along a relatively short beach of 2.2 km long. It also highlights how such variability can be related to the morphodynamic feedback with sandbars affecting hydrodynamics, particularly near-bed wave skewness and near-surfzone flow variations, which in turn influence sediment transport and morphological evolution. • Bar merging affects berm rebuilding, influenced by wave skewness and flow variations. • Net onshore flows and higher skewness allow seasonal berm rebuilding. • Net offshore flows and lower skewness kept the bar offshore but the berm recovered. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study the numerical model Delft3D is implemented on high-resolution grids to evaluate beach morphological response to groins and submerged breakwaters under sea-breeze conditions. The numerical model is compared with field measurements from three sites on the northern Yucatan coast of Mexico. At these sites, relatively low energy waves with significant wave heights arrive at a steep oblique angle to the coast that drives high sediment transport rates. After calibration of the model, by adjustment of model free parameters, the model results show accurate representations of the diurnal variation of hydrodynamic conditions (wave height and current velocity) driven by the daily sea-breezes. Moreover, the morphodynamic model shows a good representation of the rapid morphological changes, particularly of the accretion pattern caused by a temporary groin and the subsequent recovery following the structure removal. However, erosion patterns at the downdrift areas of structures were not reproduced, owing to the numerical model limitations of simulating swash morphodynamics. Model validation with field observations of the beach response behind submerged breakwaters enabled the model to be used for a parametric study. Following previous work, new equations are developed in the present study that show an improvement for predicting shoreline changes near submerged breakwaters under sea-breeze conditions. Despite the limitations in reproducing downdrift erosion, overall the high-resolution modelling approach satisfactorily simulates the hydrodynamic and the updrift accretion responses to coastal structures on sandy beaches with oblique waves. • Simulations of beach change near groins and submerged breakwaters are performed. • Results are compared to measurements at three sites with high sediment transport rates. • New equations show improved prediction of shoreline change near submerged structures. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]