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As a young woman who has spent two-thirds of her life in a burgeoning concrete jungle of 20 million where people coolly spill onto the streets in the face of speeding vehicles, as though to comply with Superman, it's not surprising that walking has never been a pastime of choice. So when I arrived in Bologna, I was a mixture of being quizzical and sloth-like; ready to take on the city by foot, but not exactly sure how to do so.  [ABSTRACT FROM PUBLISHER]