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The Midwest is not the nation's only grain belt. There once was another in upstate New York, and it is now being revived and expanded, not with commodity crops, but, to the delight of professional and amateur cooks and bakers, with specialty grains ground locally into flours and meals. It is a cooperative effort among several farms growing organic corn, spelt and wheat, often heirloom varieties. There is now a mill in Penn Yan to dehusk and separate the grains, and another in Trumansburg for grinding them into flour. Packaged under the Farmer Ground Flour label, the flours are sold in paper sacks in Greenmarkets by Cayuga Pure Organics, a participant in the cooperative. The flours are fresh, and have not sat for months in warehouses. [ABSTRACT FROM PUBLISHER]