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Cette présentation se focalise sur les principes de synthèse des vecteurs nanoparticulaires suivie de leur application en pharmacie et en cosmétologie. La nanotechnologie est une technologie multidisciplinaire pour la manipulation des objets (atomes et molécules) de taille inférieure à 100 nanomètres. Les nanoparticules peuvent être synthétisées par la méthode de top down (du haut en bas) dessous) et bottom up (du bas en haut). Dans cette présentation nous nous intéresserons aux méthodes de bottom up utilisant soit des polymères préformés ou formés in situ pendant la synthèse. Les méthodes de synthèse sont l’émulsification/évaporation de solvant, l’émulsification/déplacement de solvant, la polymérisation interfaciale, l’utilisation de polymères naturels, des fluides supercritiques et la production en milieu non aqueux (e.g. PRINT). Ces techniques permettent d’obtenir diverses classes de nanoparticules organiques (exemple des liposomes) ou inorganiques (exemple des particules d’argent ou d’or). La nanotechnologie améliore les propriétés physicochimiques (stabilité, solubilité et dissolution), biopharmaceutiques (pharmacocinétiques/libération contrôlée), thérapeutiques et toxicologiques des principes actifs utilises. L’application de la nanotechnologie en pharmacie a déjà abouti depuis 1995 a l’enregistrement de plus de 70 nouveaux produits approuvés par la US FDA (Food and Drug Administration) dont la plupart sont utilisés dans le traitement amélioré du cancer et des maladies infectieuses. En phytomedicine, la nanotechnologie améliore non seulement la production agricole/vétérinaire et la synthèse verte sans solvants organiques nocifs, mais elle permet aussi de concrétiser le concept émergent d’économie circulaire (par exemple l’utilisation des écorces de noix de coco pour faire du charbon actif de grande utilité en pharmacie, la purification de l’eau et des minéraux précieux). Ces méthodes aident aussi à optimiser l’incorporation des huiles essentielles (naturellement hydrophobes) dans les milieux aqueux dans toute formulation galénique ou cosmétique. L'application de la nanotechnologie en cosmétique est aussi en demande croissante et utilise notamment les nanoémulsions pour une meilleure pénétration transcutanée et les lipides solides pour leurs effets occlusifs. En conclusion, la nanotechnologie offre d’énormes potentiels pour l’émergence de la pharmacie industrielle en Afrique si les grands challenges ou défis des étapes clés du procédé de l’industrialisation (R&D, formulation, production, contrôle de qualité, emballage, régulation) peuvent être maitrisés

Copyright of Studii şi Cercetări de Onomastică şi Lexicologie is the property of University of Craiova, Faculty of Letters and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Lipids are major ingredients in cosmetics and play an essential role in cosmetics ability to improve skin, hair, nail and mucuous membranes aspect, sensory qualities and function, either by interacting with skin components, enhancing active ingredient release or by spreading and forming a protective layer on its surface. Measuring lipids efficacy to the skin is possible through a wide range of non-invasive clinical and instrumental methods. Measurements of sebum, temperature, hydration, transepidermal water loss, skin surface topography, skin firmness, elasticity, color enable to assess the lipids ability to protect the skin, hair and mucuous membrane (from pollution, cold, chemical aggression, dehydration), restore stratum corneum barrier function, improve cutaneous visco-elastic properties and surface characteristics, enhance skin or hair sensory qualities (softness, smoothness) or look (radiance, shine), nourish dry skins and mucuous membranes or help sooth sensitive ones. We explored the advantages and limits of these methods. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Résumé: La méthylisothiazolinone (MI) est un allergène émergent dans les cosmétiques, les produits professionnels et ménagers. Une véritable épidémie d’allergie de contact européenne est constatée depuis quelques années avec une prévalence de sensibilisation de contact de 5,6 à 6 % dans les études les plus récentes. Pour ces raisons, le test à la MI vient d’être inclus récemment dans la batterie standard européenne à la concentration de 2000ppm dans l’eau. Des mesures réglementaires concernant les cosmétiques sont en cours de discussion au niveau européen. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Copyright of Revue Francaise d'Allergologie is the property of Elsevier B.V. and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Copyright of Revue Francaise d'Allergologie is the property of Elsevier B.V. and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Copyright of Revue Francaise d'Allergologie is the property of Elsevier B.V. and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Copyright of Revue Francaise d'Allergologie is the property of Elsevier B.V. and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Copyright of Revue Francaise d'Allergologie is the property of Elsevier B.V. and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Erucic acid (22:113) has been identified as an anti-nutritional compound in meadowfoam (Limnanthes alba) and other oilseeds in the Brassicales, a classification which has necessitated the development of low erucic acid cultivars for human consumption. The erucic acid concentrations of meadowfoam wild types (8%-24%) surpass industry standards for human consumption (≤3%). The goals of the present study were to develop low erucic acid lines and identify loci affecting the accumulation of 22:113 and other very long-chain fatty acids (VLCFAs) in meadowfoam seed storage lipids. LE76, a low erucic acid line, was developed by 3 cycles of selection in an ethyl methanesulfonate-treated wildtype population. LE76 produced 3% 22:113, threefold less than the M0 population. Wildtype × LE76 F2 populations produced continuous, approximately normal erucic and dienoic acid distributions. Loss-of-function mutations apparently did not segregate and individuals with low 22:113 concentrations (≤3%) were observed only in F2 populations from hybrids with L. alba subsp. alba wild types. The meadowfoam genome was mapped and scanned for quantitative trait loci (QTL) affecting VLCFA profiles in seed storage lipids by genotyping and phenotyping wildtype × low erucic acid F2 progeny. Composite interval mapping identified 3 moderately large-effect erucic acid QTL. The low erucic acid parent transmitted favorable alleles for 2 of 3 QTL, suggesting low erucic acid cultivars can be developed by combining favorable alleles transmitted by wildtype and low erucic acid parents. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Revue Francaise d'Allergologie is the property of Elsevier B.V. and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Abstract: Cosmetics are products, which by definition “…must not damage human health in the normal conditions of use”. However, unwanted effects do occur, the best known being cutaneous and allergic reactions. The dermatology-allergy specialist is thus the first to be concerned with cosmetovigilance. In 1966, the Groupe d’études et de recherche en dermato-allergologie (GERDA) created a vigilance network concerned with cutaneous allergic incidents [Réseau de vigilance sur les accidents allergiques cutanés (REVIDAL)], the REVIDAL GERDA, which acts as a coordinator for cosmetovigilance. In 2004, a public cosmetovigilance committee was created; all serious adverse effects or those appearing to be serious were to be reported immediately to the Agence française de sécurité sanitaire des produits de santé (AFSSAPS) by health professionals who observed them. Manufacturers are required to participate in this public cosmetovigilance. They have a similar responsibility via the Direction générale de la concurrence et de la consommation (DGCCRF) to report to AFSSAPS the list of their products which contain substances for which there is a serious doubt. This means that cosmetovigilance requires collection of cases; it will work well only if reports are made regularly. The physician who reports cases improves the management of his patients and participates in Public Health actions. This type of cosmetovigilance will extend to all EU countries. Reports by consumers should be possible, but they will be encouraged to consult a doctor before doing so. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: The diagnosis of allergic contact dermatitis to cosmetics is based on a careful history (anamnesis), taking into account all the cosmetic products that have been used by the patient, on inspection of the clinical symptoms and localisation of the lesions, and on the performance of epicutaneous tests or patch tests. In addition, other types of tests such as open and semi-open testing with products having a certain irritant potential as well as repeated open application tests (ROAT) on the forearm can also be very useful in the diagnosis of contact dermatitis caused by cosmetic products. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Copyright of EMC-Dermatologie--Cosmetologie is the property of Elsevier B.V. and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

A number of cosmetic products containing sesame oil are used for daily cutaneous care. The risk of secondary induction of eczema or even anaphylactic shock after topical use of products containing vegetable oils is still unknown. We describe the case of 36-years-old atopic, sesame-sensitized women who presented with contact urticaria after application of a foundation cream containing sesame oil. Immediate prick and patch tests with sesame oil, sesame grains, the foundation cream and its components confirmed this sensitization. We discuss the innocuousness of vegetable and animal products present in foods and in cosmetics and problems that may occur when they are used by patients during an inflammatory phase of atopic dermatitis and by patients with specific sensitization to these allergens. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

The most important allergenic components in cosmetics are the perfumes and preservative agents. The perfume components have been attracting the most attention recently because increasing numbers of positive reactions to them during routine patch testing are being reported from a number of centers. Investigation of other contact sensitizers in cosmetics is necessary. Moreover, while the perfume components may be allergenic of themselves, they may also contain sensitizing contaminants as well as highly allergenic oxidation products. With respect to preservatives in cosmetics, important shifts in allergenicity have occurred over the years, and their spectrum varies considerably from country to country. Other potential sensitizers in cosmetics include anti-oxidants, emulsifiers, vehicle components, sunscreens — the latter being often responsible for photoallergic contact dermatitis — and also several “natural” ingredients. As to occupational allergens, it is particularly acrylate-containing products used on the nails that currently require our attention. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

According to the knowledge acquired some 15 years ago, the cutaneous lipids may be classified into 2 families: the “neutral” lipids, represented by cholesterol, cholesterol esters, cholesterol sulphate, triglycerides, free fatty acids, squalen and alcanes, and the “polar” lipids including phospholipids (phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylethanolamine, sphingomyeline) and sphingolipids (ceramides I-VII, monohexosylceramides). From the functional point of view, free fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides organised in layers are the most important components of intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum. Analytic methods have been recently developed to help understand the structural organisation of these various molecules within the horny layer and their influence on the epidermal barrier function. Raman microspectroscopy or X-ray diffraction are most frequently used. Differential calorimetry and fluorescence or infrared spectroscopy provide complementary information. The principal findings are:

Résumé: L’allergie de contact aux cosmétiques est en perpétuelle augmentation. Son exploration n’est pas facile et est déterminante pour le patient qui doit savoir quels ingrédients éviter. Dés l’interrogatoire il faudra rechercher tous les produits ű cachés Ƈ par le patient car ils peuvent paraître peu imputables. La lecture de la liste des ingrédients, des tests d’application répétée ou d’usage, dans certains cas des prick-tests ou de tests avec les ingrédients fournis par le fabriquant permettent de débusquer l’allergène. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objectives: The existence of borderline products between the status of a medicinal product and other less regulated products allows some products to have different statuses or even to change from one status to another. In order to quantify these changes, a review of medicines that have changed from drug status to other statuses (medical device, cosmetic product or food supplement) in France between 2010 and 2019 was performed., Method: The lists of medicinal products with archived or revoked marketing authorization (MA) from the French National Authority's Register of Medicinal Products were analyzed in order to identify the medicinal products withdrawn from the market between January 1, 2010 and September 30, 2019 that could be considered as products with a "potential for status change". Then, we searched on the official websites of the MA holders and other firms, for a possible return to the market with a different status, marketed by the same firm (self-change of status) or a different firm (hetero-change of status)., Results: Out of a list of 206 drugs identified as "with potential for status change", we detected a total of 101 status changes, including 36 auto-changes and 65 hetero-changes. These changes mainly concern vitamin or herbal drugs later marketed as food supplements (30 cases of auto-changes and 60 cases of hetero-changes). There are also 6 cases of switching to cosmetic product and 5 cases of switching to medical device., Conclusion: The existence of no clear distinction between the different statuses of health products facilitates their status changes. The increasing shift from "medicines" to less regulated products, the trivialization of their use by the public and their increasing consumption make them a fundamental issue of social pharmacology, requiring to raise the awareness of consumers and health professionals., (Copyright © 2020 Société française de pharmacologie et de thérapeutique. All rights reserved.)

Introduction: The standardized litchi extract had been revealed on phytochemical actives, in vitro and cellular activities against aging and darkening of skin. However, a formulation containing the extract has never been developed as per clinical evaluated., Materials and Methods: The litchi serum was developed, safety and efficacy were clinically evaluated in human volunteers. The stable and none irritated 0.05 and 0.1% litchi serums were randomized-single blind placebo control clinical applied on the inner forearm of 29 volunteers for a consecutive 112 days and monitored by Mexameter® MX18, Cutometer® MPA 580 and Visioscan® VC 98., Results: Skin lightening efficacy of the 0.1% and 0.05% litchi serum was significantly (P<0.001 and P<0.05) higher than the placebo. Skin elasticity and wrinkle reduction was significantly (P<0.05 and P<0.005) achieved by the 0.1% litchi serum. The efficacy of litchi serums was confirmed by a split-face, randomized, single-blind controlled that the 0.1% litchi serum was significantly (P<0.05) better than the 0.05% one of all examined parameters., Conclusion: Safety and efficacy of litchi extract are clinically confirmed for hyperpigmentation and aging of skin treatments., (Copyright © 2020 Académie Nationale de Pharmacie. Published by Elsevier Masson SAS. All rights reserved.)

With the development of industry and increase in road traffic, atmospheric pollution has reached unprecedented levels in many regions of the world. Concentrations of pollutants are often far beyond the recommendations of the World Health Organization. Skin, as the first interface between the human body and its environment, is one of the main organs exposed to pollutants and to other environmental factors such as UV irradiation. As much as the effects of pollution and UV irradiation on human skin have been described, the underlying mechanisms remain to be elucidated. This state of the art study aims at exposing the numerous adverse effects of UV and pollution as well as their mode of action on skin. We summarize how these environmental factors negatively impact skin cells: by upregulating xenobiotic metabolism (and bioactivation) and inducing oxidative stress and inflammation, leading to premature aging and a disrupted barrier function. Consequently, we suggest adapted protective measures for the cosmetic industry to support anti-pollution claims., (Copyright © 2019 Académie Nationale de Pharmacie. Published by Elsevier Masson SAS. All rights reserved.)

Introduction: Scaphium scaphigerum or malva nut has long been served in Chinese medicine. However, the use of this herb in modern health care applications has, to date, been rarely reported., Materials and Methods: Maceration of the herb in water afforded malva nut polysaccharide which was standardized. Safety and skin hydrating efficacy of the polysaccharide and products were evaluated in human volunteers., Results: Malva nut polysaccharide (41.71±0.64%) having 36.58±0.51% total sugar content was isolated, with further analysis quantifying ash, carbohydrate, reducing sugar and moisture contents to be 6.05±0.00, 40.06±1.00, 12.20±0.05 and 12.64±0.31%, respectively. The polysaccharide exhibited swelling and hydrating capacities of 0.46±0.01% and 54.46±0.02g/g, with L*, a* and b* of 52.56±0.04, 9.02±0.06 and 18.42±0.03, respectively, and a viscosity of 1263.00±2.00 cps. Accelerated testing indicated the biopolysaccharide to be stable, resulting in no skin irritation in 15 human volunteers. The skin hydrating efficacy as assessed via a randomized single-blind, placebo-controlled study in 24 volunteers highlighted the superior performance of malva nut over the vehicle (moisture retainment for 70min as examined by Corneometer ® CM 825). A stable skin moisturizing gel containing malva nut was developed and was shown to exhibit improved performance over benchmark tamarind and algae polysaccharide gels (after 180min observation)., Conclusion: Malva nut polysaccharide has potential as a key ingredient in skin hydrating products, which should encourage its further development., (Copyright © 2017 Académie Nationale de Pharmacie. Published by Elsevier Masson SAS. All rights reserved.)

Avene thermal spring water is recognized for more than two centuries for its benefits on skin diseases. Since 1975, the Pierre Fabre Group has modernized the facilities, and developed the brand « Eau Thermal Avène », allowing more than 2,500 patients/year to be treated by this therapeutic water. The regulation requires high standards on origin, bacteriological purity and physico-chemical stability. Many works have allowed us to understand its origin, its underground path and identify its specific physico-chemical profile. Finally, thanks to its therapeutic properties verified in various clinical studies, the « Eau Thermal Avène » is the first active ingredient of a variety of products for sensitive skin., (© 2017 Elsevier Masson SAS. Tous droits réservés.)

Background: Within the European Union, sun protection products have long been considered cosmetics whereas in other parts of the world, such as the United States, they are considered as medicinal products. In France, sun protection products with medical device status have recently appeared. Our aim was to compare medical and cosmetic sun protection products., Materials and Methods: We subjected 4 sun protection products to in vitro testing in order to determine their efficacy in the UVB and UVA ranges, as well as their photo-stability and water resistance. We tested two cosmetic products (Dépiwhite S Soin photoprotecteur(®) SPF 50+ and Urgo cicatrices(®) SPF 30) and two class I medical devices (MD) (Actinica lotion(®) and Kelocote UV(®) Gel for scars). The main in vitro method used involved measuring the transmittance of a sample of each product applied to a dish containing poly(methyl methacrylate) using a spectrophotometer with integrating spheres. This method enabled us to determine the SPF of the various products as well as their photo-stability and degree of water resistance., Results: Regarding efficacy, three of the four test products met the European recommendations governing sun protection products, i.e. a ratio between UVB and UVA protection of 3 or less, and a critical wavelength (λc) of 370 nm or higher. Actinica lotion(®) was the more effective of the two medical devices tested, and was also the most photo-stable, at least within the UVB range. All four products tested were water-resistant., Discussion: The products tested, while having different status and different claims, exhibited equivalent filtration properties under the study conditions., (Copyright © 2015 Elsevier Masson SAS. All rights reserved.)

Risk assessment for personal care products requires the use of alternative methods since animal testing is now totally banned. Some of these methods are effective and have been validated by the "European Union Reference Laboratory for alternatives to animal testing"; but there is still a need for development and implementation of methods for specific endpoints. In this review, we have focused on dermal risk assessment because it is the prime route of absorption and main target organ for personal care products. Within this field, various areas must be assessed: irritation, sensitisation and toxicokinetic. Personal care product behaviour after use by the consumer and potential effects on the environment are also discussed. The purpose of this review is to show evolution and the prospects of alternative methods for safety dermal assessment. Assessment strategies must be adapted to the different chemical classes of substances studied but also to the way in which they are used. Finally, experimental and theoretical technical parameters that may impact on measured effects have been identified and discussed., (Copyright © 2015 Elsevier Masson SAS. All rights reserved.)

Background: We report the case of a girl presenting acute allergic contact dermatitis due to methoxy PEG 22 dodecyl glycol contained in Mustela Cold Cream Nutriprotecteur®., Patients and Methods: A 6-year-old girl was referred with acute eczema of the face occurring within 12h of applying a new moisturizing cream, Mustela Cold Cream Nutriprotecteur®. Patch tests were performed on the upper back using the Finn Chamber technique with the European standard series and the patient's own cream. Readings were performed after 2 days and the sole positive ++ reaction was associated with Mustela Cold Cream®. Additional patch testing was carried out with the ingredients of the cream, with the sole positive ++ reaction again being to methoxy PEG 22 dodecyl glycol copolymer. The other ingredients were negative., Discussion: Methoxy PEG 22 dodecyl glycol is a copolymer used in cosmetics as an emulsion stabilizer and viscosity-increasing agent. It is found in 20 cosmetics currently on the market, most of which are prescribed for children., Conclusion: Although it is rare, doctors must be aware of allergic contact dermatitis due to methoxy PEG 22 dodecyl glycol because of the extent of clinical reactions and because it chiefly affects the paediatric population., (Copyright © 2013 Elsevier Masson SAS. All rights reserved.)