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Beach–dune systems are highly dynamic features of the coastal system, the evolution of which is influenced by several processes that occur at very different spatial and temporal scales. To mitigate shoreline retreat that threatens extensive coastal areas worldwide, coastal erosion mitigation measures are implemented, aiming to make coastal areas resilient to the effects induced by coastal erosion and the anticipated climate change related to storms, flood events and sea level rise. Numerical modelling can support planned and sustainable coastal management from a medium-to-long-term perspective (decades). This research focuses on presenting contributions regarding the numerical modelling of subaerial beach dynamics (berm width and dune systems interactions) from a medium-term perspective. The method applied is based on a combination of the results of two simplified numerical models (the LTC and CS-Model). The results demonstrate the potential of the proposed combined model for medium-term projections, allowing for the interpretation of beach–dune dynamics and the evaluation of the importance of longshore and cross-shore sediment transport processes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

As escalating environmental pressures threaten the world's beaches, understanding the driving factors influencing their geomorphological changes is of critical global importance. This study focuses on the morphological changes of Sigeng beach adjacent to Changhua River Mouth in Hainan Island, China through decadal monitoring of shoreline and profile topography and tries to illuminate the natural and anthropogenic factors that drove geomorphological changes. The results showed that Sigeng beach undergone significant changes between 2008 and 2024, with notable accretion at the northernmost and southernmost and general erosion at other sections. The shoreline change rates ranged between -18.4 m/yr and 13.0 m/yr, with the average rate of -1.9 m/yr, indicating overall erosion. The net longshore sediment transport (LST) rates along Sigeng beach was estimated through the combination of the cross-shore (profile) and longshore (shoreline) changes. The overall direction of net LST along the beach were southward, except for the northern section where the direction was northward due to the diffraction of NE waves by the long sand spit at the northernmost. The net LST rates at each profile varied from 0.8×104 m³/yr to 3.5×104 m³/yr. The main factors controlling Sigeng beach evolution, including seasonal wave action and reduction in fluvial sediment load, followed by sand spit and coastal structures, typhoon events, aeolian transport, and sea level rise, were discussed. Subsequently, adaptive protection measures, including beach nourishment, accompanied with groin system or multiple detached breakwaters were proposed to combat with beach erosion. The analysis presented in this study is helpful to understand the morphodynamics and to predict the future change of beaches. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal erosion poses significant challenges to shoreline management, exacerbated by rising sea levels and changing climate patterns. This study investigates the influence of gap spacing between semicircular coastal defence structures on shoreline dynamics during storm events. The innovative design of these structures aims to induce a drift reversal of prevalent sediment transport while avoiding interruption of alongshore sediment drift, thus protecting the beach. Three different gap spacings, ranging from 152 m to 304 m, were analysed using the XBeach numerical model, focusing on storm morphodynamic behaviour. Methodologically, hydrodynamic and morphodynamic analyses were conducted to understand variations in significant wave heights adjacent to the structures, in accretion and erosion volumes, and changes in bed level under storm conditions. The study aims to elucidate the complex interaction between engineered coastal protection solutions and natural coastal processes, providing practical insights for coastal management practices. Results indicate that installing semicircular coastal defence structures influences sediment dynamics during storm events, effectively protecting stretches of the coast at risk. Optimal gap spacing between structures is crucial to mitigating coastal erosion and enhancing sediment accumulation, offering a sustainable shoreline protection approach. The findings underscore the importance of balanced location selection to optimize protection benefits while minimizing adverse morphological effects. Overall, this research contributes to advancing knowledge of hydro-morphological phenomena essential for effective coastal engineering and informs the design and implementation of more sustainable coastal protection strategies in the face of increasing coastal erosion and sea level rise challenges. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Numerical modeling of wave transformation, hydrodynamics, and morphodynamics in coastal regions holds paramount significance for combating coastal erosion by evaluating and optimizing various coastal protection structures. This study aims to present an integration of numerical models to accurately simulate the coastal processes with the presence of coastal and harbor structures. Specifically, integrated modeling employs an advanced mild slope model as the main driver, which is capable of describing all the wave transformation phenomena, including wave reflection. This model provides radiation stresses as inputs to a hydrodynamic model based on Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes equations to simulate nearshore currents. Ultimately, these models feed an additional model that can simulate longshore sediment transport and bed level changes. The models are validated against experimental measurements, including energy dissipation due to bottom friction and wave breaking; combined refraction, diffraction, and breaking over a submerged shoal; wave transformation and wave-generated currents over submerged breakwaters; and wave, currents, and sediment transport fields over a varying bathymetry. The models exhibit satisfactory performance in simulating all considered cases, establishing them as efficient and reliable integrated tools for engineering applications in real coastal areas. Moreover, leveraging the validated models, a numerical investigation is undertaken to assess the effects of wave reflection on a seawall on coastal processes for two ideal beach configurations—one with a steeper slope of 1:10 and another with a milder slope of 1:50. The numerical investigation reveals that the presence of reflected waves, particularly in milder bed slopes, significantly influences sediment transport, emphasizing the importance of employing a wave model that takes into account wave reflection as the primary driver for integrated modeling of coastal processes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Numerical models can be powerful tools for evaluating the best scenarios for the construction of artificial nourishments to mitigate coastal erosion. Until recent decades, when looking at medium- to long-term simulations, cross-shore and alongshore processes have been studied separately. Accounting for both processes in a shoreline evolution numerical model would improve the understanding and predictive capacity of future changes in coastline evolution. The AX-COAST project aims to develop new capacities in modeling cross-shore sediment transport processes by adding the CS-Model, a cross-shore numerical model, into the existing LTC (Long-Term Configuration) model. The LTC model is a shoreline evolution numerical model which is a module of the cost–benefit assessment tool COAST. This work presents the first steps of the CS-Model implementation, which involve evaluating its performance by calibrating the model with extensive measured datasets of wave climate, beach profiles, tide levels, etc., from coastal areas in IJmuiden and Sand Motor in the Netherlands. The results show good agreement between modeled and observed values. Additionally, wave climate datasets derived from global and regional wave models were considered to evaluate modeling performance at IJmuiden. Using derived timeseries from the wave models did not significantly lead to different results compared to using measured data. The obtained mean absolute and relative errors for each profile were low for both types of datasets. Calibration processes with consistent data are important in modeling simulations to accurately represent the study area and ensure the credibility of future simulations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This document is a compilation of various scientific articles and studies related to coastal engineering, beach nourishment, and shoreline dynamics. The references cover a wide range of topics, including the impacts of nourishment on shoreline response, the use of nature-based solutions for coastal erosion, and the effects of submerged breakwaters. They also discuss the role of waves, sediment transport, and beach profile change in beach nourishment, as well as the effects of nourishment on benthic fauna and the vulnerability of beaches to sea level rise. These references provide valuable information for researchers and decision-makers interested in these subjects. [Extracted from the article]

Developed barrier systems (barrier islands and spits) are lowering and narrowing with sea‐level rise (SLR) such that habitation will eventually become infeasible or prohibitively expensive for most communities in its current form. Before reaching this state, choices will be made to modify the natural and built environment to reduce relatively short‐term risk. These choices will likely vary substantially even along the same developed barrier system as these landscapes are rarely uniformly managed alongshore. Building on the results from a companion paper, here we use a new modeling framework to investigate the complexities in barrier system dynamics that emerge as a function of alongshore variability in management strategies, accelerations in SLR, and changes in storm intensity and frequency. Model results suggest that when connected through alongshore sediment transport, barriers with alongshore variable management strategies—here, the construction of dunes and wide beaches to protect either roadways or communities—evolve differently than they would in the absence of alongshore connections. Shoreline stabilization by communities in one location influences neighboring areas managed solely for roadways, inducing long‐term system‐wide lags in shoreline retreat. Conversely, when barrier segments managed for roadways are allowed to overwash, this induces shoreline curvature system‐wide, thus enhancing erosion on nearby stabilized segments. Feedbacks between dunes, storms, overwash flux, and alongshore sediment transport also affect outcomes of climate adaptation measures. In the case of partial, early abandonment of roadway management, we find that system‐wide transitions to less vulnerable landscape states are possible, even under accelerated SLR and increased storminess. Plain Language Summary: Because humans inhabit barrier islands and spits (collectively referred to as "barriers") these landscapes, that would otherwise naturally change shape in response to storms and sea‐level rise (SLR), are influenced by efforts to protect development with wide beaches and tall dunes. These features interfere with a process called overwash, which transports sand landward during storms, building barrier elevation relative to sea level. Here, we use a new model to better understand how these interactions influence the habitability of barriers over time. Our simulations show that different management decisions made for adjacent coastal segments affect each other in positive and negative ways. When communities nourish beaches, adjacent to segments managed for roadways, some nourished sand reaches the adjacent segments, reducing shoreline erosion there. Conversely, portions of barriers that are managed only for roadways allow some overwash to reach the barrier interior; this negatively affects neighboring communities by enhancing their shoreline erosion rates. We find that early abandonment of dune management along portions of barriers may prevent highly vulnerable future states, such as barrier drowning. As communities explore choices for climate adaptation, our findings reveal the importance of coordination among decision makers in adjacent communities to avoid undesirable outcomes. Key Points: When management strategies vary alongshore, their effects are coupled via alongshore sediment redistribution, influencing barrier evolutionBeach nourishment (along portions of barriers) induces system‐wide lags in shoreline retreat, even decades after nourishment practices ceaseMore overwash (due to lower dunes or increased storminess) can prolong habitability, but drives increased nourishment frequency elsewhere [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study, a swash-zone model, using Larson and Wamsley formula (LW07), was combined into the Telemac-2D model system to examine the performance of modeling swash-zone processes through comparisons with field observation data. The experimental site was the Haeundae Beach in South Korea where Typhoon Phanfone occurred in October 2014, and bathymetric surveys were performed before and after the typhoon. Hydrodynamic data were also measured to validate the modeled data. The performance of LW07 was tested by running the model in two modes, with and without LW07. First, the model was run to simulate the shoreline response to an imaginary coastal breakwater. The result showed a clear discrepancy between the two modes as the sediments were considerably cumulated behind the breakwater in the case with the swash-zone formula (LW07) in the wide range along the shoreline behind the breakwater, indicating that the sediments more actively and rapidly responded to the shadowing by the breakwater with LW07. The model was also run for a realistic case from August to October 2014, which included the typhoon's period during 2–6 October. The results showed that the morphological changes at both ends of the beach in the swash zone were simulated with higher accuracy with LW07, supporting the effectiveness of LW07 in simulating the short-term morphological changes induced by the typhoon attack. In particular, the successful simulation of the sand accumulation at the end sides of the beach's swash zone indicates that LW07 was effective in estimating not only the cross-shore transport but also longshore transport, which was likely due to the characteristics of LW07 that calculated sand transport in both directions. The enhanced modeling performance with LW07 was likely due to the adjustment of the sediment transport rate to the instantaneous changes in the local beach slope, which could successfully control the erosion/accretion process in the swash zone more realistically. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study, laboratory experiments were conducted to investigate the influence of changes in storm wave height and water level on beach response in a medium-scale wave flume. A schematic storm was simulated (rising, apex, and waning phases). A non-intrusive photogrammetric method was used to collect high-resolution and synchronous data regarding the free surface water elevation and bed level, from which shoreline location, sandbar position, cross-shore sediment transport rates, and nonlinear wave parameters were derived. The cross-shore sediment transport was in agreement with previous laboratory measurements, including the monotonous exchange from foreshore erosion to shoaling zone accretion in most stages of the storm simulation. The surf zone was the main region supplying sediment for beach morphology modification and sandbar generation. The degree of storm erosion was not completely determined by the largest wave height and water level or the cumulative wave power of the apex phase. The largest gradients of the wave parameter sequence change occurred in the rising phase, and this was the main factor generating efficient beachface erosion. It induced an increase in sandbar size, accompanied by the cross-shore motion of maximum velocity amplitude, more violent disturbances of wave nonlinearity, and increased surf zone erosion, with these factors increasing beach instability and leading to more severe storm erosion. The large wave height and water level resulted in shoreline retreat, with a more significant swash zone erosion under a higher runup. The offshore sediment transport turned toward the onshore direction as the original large sandbar deteriorated under the decreasing wave parameter sequence in the waning phase. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Sandy beaches have different shoreline change rates (i.e., erosion/accretion rates). An erosive process on beaches poses risks for human-occupied areas. One example is Matinhos Beach (state of Paraná - Brazil), which has an average annual erosion rate of around 1.5 m yr-1 This study applied a methodology that combines in situ measurements and numerical modeling to simulate the physical processes in the coastal area of Matinhos during the 2018 Austral winter. Monthly DGPS surveys were carried out in the study area from June to September. The MOHID modeling system was applied to simulate hydrodynamics and sediment transport, considering waves and tidal forcing validated with in situ data. The WAVEWATCH III and SWAN models were applied in a nesting approach to simulate the waves at Matinhos Beach. The GFS was used to assess the wind conditions. The study period showed a dynamic evolution of accretion and erosion between monthly measurements with no clear pattern in most profiles. Significant sand accumulation was observed near the headland. Morphological changes were minor due to the predominance of low energy without significant storm events. The measured morphological changes are in line with the residual littoral drift obtained from the modeling results for the period. The residual current velocities were towards the southwest, with magnitudes ranging from 0.15 m s-1 to 0.2 m s-1. A slight variation in the angle of wave incidence (10°) may change the direction (southwest or northeast) and intensity of the littoral drift. The applied methodology can reduce uncertainty and support effective coastal management. However, the seasonal scales of wave climate cannot be disregarded, nor can the need for coastal oceanographic data. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This work presents a new model for surf and swash zone morphology evolution induced by nonlinear waves. Wave transformation in the surf and swash zones is computed by a nonlinear wave model based on the higher order Boussinesq equations for breaking and non-breaking waves. Regarding sediment transport, the model builds on previous research by the authors and incorporates the latest update of a well-founded sediment transport formula. The wave and morphology evolution model is validated against two sets of experiments on beach profile change and is afterwards used to test the performance of a widely-adopted erosion/accretion criterion. The innovation of this work is the validation of a new Boussinesq-type morphology model under both erosive and accretive conditions at the foreshore (accretion is rarely examined in similar studies), which the model reproduces very well without modification of the empirical coefficients of the sediment transport formula used; furthermore, the model confirms the empirical erosion/accretion criterion even for conditions beyond the ones it was developed for and without imposing any model constraints. The presented set of applications highlights model capabilities in simulating swash morphodynamics, as well as its suitability for coastal erosion mitigation and beach restoration design [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

With the recent development from grey infrastructures to green infrastructures, artificial reefs become more popular in coastal protection projects. To investigate the responses of beach profile evolution to the presence of an artificial reef, a non-hydrostatic model is established. Both hydrodynamic and morphodynamic evolution for the beach with and without an artificial reef are compared under regular wave conditions. In addition, the protected beach profile evolution by an artificial reef is discussed under irregular wave conditions. Three key parameters in non-hydrostatic simulation are considered for sensitivity analysis, including maximum wave steepness criterium (maxbrsteep), water depth factor (depthscale), and equilibrium sediment concentration factor (sedcal). The numerical results under regular wave conditions indicate that the artificial reef enhances wave attenuation by inducing wave breaking. In addition, the artificial reef reduces local flow velocity and offshore sediment transport by 51%, therefore decrease the total erosion by 53%. Over the artificial reef, wave skewness and asymmetry go through a drastic change. Under irregular wave conditions, short waves contribute to the wave energy mainly and reflection-induced standing wave effects decline considerably. It demonstrates that the artificial reef can protect the beach from regular and irregular waves by reducing erosion and offshore transport of suspended sediments. Moreover, in the wave breaking area, the increase of maximum wave steepness criterium may give arise to the wave height. The morphological evolution is more sensitive to water depth factor than equilibrium sediment concentration factor, because the former is a controlling factor for beach profile characteristics while the latter forms the sandbar varying irregularly in shape. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A field campaign was carried out at a sheltered sandy beach with the aim of gaining new insights into the driving processes behind sheltered beach morphodynamics. Detailed measurements of the local hydrodynamics, bed level changes and sediment composition were collected at the man-made beach on the leeside of the barrier island Texel, bordering the Marsdiep basin that is part of the Dutch Wadden Sea. The data set consists of (1) current, wave and turbidity measurements from a dense cross-shore array and a 3 km alongshore array, (2) sediment composition data from beach surface samples, (3) high-temporal-resolution RTK-GNSS beach profile measurements, (4) a pre-campaign spatially covering bathy-topo map and (5) meteorological data. This manuscript outlines how these measurements were set up and how the data have been processed, stored and can be accessed. The novelty of this data set lies in the detailed approach to resolve forcing conditions on a sheltered beach, where sediment transport is governed by a strong interplay between tidal currents, waves and bed composition, primarily due to the low-energy (near-threshold) forcing. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study investigated the beach nourishment effect and topographical changes when using nourishment sand with relatively large particle diameters to perform beach nourishment on a beach subject to erosion. A physical model test was conducted in a 2D wave flume with an installed wind tunnel. The experiment examined the sediment transport mechanism under conditions with wind and waves. Although applying nourishment sand with large particle diameters attenuated sediment transport, the increase in particle diameter was not always proportional to the reduction in topographical changes. Increasing the particle diameter of the nourishment sand increased the friction force between particles, resulting in large-scale erosion and accretion around the coastline, and this trend increased with winds. Also, with wind, the wave run-up height increased, the undertow became stronger, and large-scale scouring occurred at the boundary between the nourishment sand and the existing beach. Increasing the particle diameter of the nourishment sand played a role in reducing the run-up phenomenon (d50: 1.0 mm with 24–50%, d50: 5.0 mm with 59–83%), and the range of particles moved by winds also decreased (d50: 1.0 mm with 10–38%, d50: 5.0 mm with 5–37%). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The three-dimensional liquid–sediment system of a coastline was investigated using experimental and numerical approaches. A scaled-down model of the coastline was numerically studied using smooth particle hydrodynamics (SPH). The flow dynamics and the impacts of the wave frequency and the seaward slope angle on the breaking wave characteristics of the two-phase liquid–sediment interaction were parametrically studied. A particle image velocimetry (PIV) experiment was conducted to validate the SPH predictions. It was found that the flow profiles obtained by the PIV and SPH are in good agreement both qualitatively and quantitatively. The maximum velocity of the fluid flow was recorded as 0.5623 m/s in the SPH simulation, but as 0.5860 m/s in the PIV experimental, with a percentage difference of 4.21%. Subsequently, it was found that the breaking wave characteristic is surging at the wave frequency range of f < 0.15 Hz, plunging at 0.15 < f < 0.55 Hz, and spilling at 0.55 < f ≤ 1.0 Hz. It was also established that at a particular Froude number, it is observed that spilling, plunging, and surging wave breakers are produced at low, mid, and high seaward slope angles, respectively. Meanwhile, increasing the Froude number increases the tendency to produce spilling or plugging breaking waves, irrespective of the slope angle. Ultimately, this study has demonstrated the presented methodology's usefulness in investigating coastlines' liquid–sediment interaction properties. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Continuous monitoring of the varying topographical characteristics of shorelines is important for effective coastal management. Closed-circuit television (CCTV) cameras are installed to accumulate photographic data on coastal topographical changes. The overall change in the coastal waters can be intuitively understood from the images. However, the amount of three-dimensional (3D) changes that can be grasped is limited. To address this, studies have employed aerial photogrammetry, which is the use of unmanned aerial vehicles (UAVs) to capture aerial pictures, construct 3D models of target areas, and perform analysis through scale-invariant feature transform and structure from motion technologies. Although highly efficient, this technique requires several ground-control points (GCPs), which could corrupt the overall imagery. This study designs real-time kinematics—global navigation satellite system (RTK–GNSS) UAV, which requires few GCPs. To evaluate the positional accuracy of the captured UAV orthographic images and digital surface models (DSMs) used for precise coastal terrain measurements, a virtual reference service survey was performed to determine the vertical errors. The R-squared was 0.985, which is close to 1.0. Short-term and one-year topographic changes before and after a storm were investigated using time-series UAV image data after a coastal maintenance project. Analysis of the coefficient of variation in the beach volume for one year revealed that submerged breakwater reduced erosion during high wave resistance. The submerged breakwater located in the center exhibited variability similar to the opening. Hence, this method is more suitable for periodically monitoring coastal areas. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Understanding the dynamics of beach–dune systems is crucial for effective coastal management. The cellular automata model DuBeVeg provides a powerful tool for simulating and understanding the bio-geomorphological evolution of these systems, capturing key interactions of aeolian, hydro-, and vegetation dynamics in a simplified manner. In this study, we present an alternative representation of the aeolian transport component in DuBeVeg, aiming to better capture the saltation transport mode that prevails on beaches. This new representation is compared with the original aeolian transport representation in DuBeVeg, which is inspired by ripple migration. For three beach width scenarios, we considered the effects of the different aeolian transport representations on the predicted foredune morphology after 50 years, as well as the spatio-temporal evolution of the beach–dune system leading to that morphologic state. The saltation transport representation resulted in a more realistic simulation of the seaward expansion of the foredune compared with the original representation, particularly in scenarios with wide and prograding beaches. The new representation also more accurately captured the amplitude of aeolian bedforms emerging across the beach. These findings highlight the importance of selecting the representative transport mode when simulating the transient bio-geomorphological evolution of beach–dune systems. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Costa da Caparica beach, in Portugal, has suffered from chronic erosion for the last 50 years, a phenomenon that has been countered by various management interventions. This study aims at comparing sixteen possible interventions, thus identifying the most effective one(s) in terms of reducing beach erosion or even promoting beach accretion. This exercise is achieved using a one-line shoreline evolution model, calibrated with in situ field data, forced by local wave conditions. The target management period is 25 years. In the calibration phase, it is found that the annual mean alongshore net sediment transport along the 24 km sandy coast is variable in direction and magnitude, but it is mostly smaller than ±50 × 103 m3/year. This net transport results from the imbalance of northward/southward-directed bulk transports of circa tenfold-larger magnitudes. This affects the overall sediment balance at the urban beaches, as well as the effectiveness of the intervention strategies. The results show that the present management strategy is effective in holding the shoreline position, although deploying the same nourishment volume but over a shorter area could lead to better results. The best solutions, which are capable of promoting beach accretion, implicate the lengthening of the terminal groin at the northern extremity of the beach. The results from this study can support decision makers in identifying the most appropriate management action, not just locally but also at other coastal regions where similar problems persist and the same methodology could be applied. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Typhoons play an important role in beach evolution. The storm surge and large waves caused by typhoons can cause significant changes in beach morphology in a short period of time. The mechanism of beach evolution and profile changes during typhoons is significantly different from that under non-typhoon dynamic conditions. The XBeach numerical model provides an effective tool for predicting the response of sandy coasts to typhoons. This study is based on field-collected long-term beach profile elevations and grain size data, which were used to establish a two-dimensional XBeach model for simulating the morphological evolution of Cudao Island Beach under Typhoon Lekima. The GSA (Generalized Sensitivity Analysis) method was used to determine the sensitivity order of several important parameters in this modeling. Four different moments of wave height variation were selected during the typhoon process to analyze and study beach evolution. The results show that Chudao South Beach is always in a state of erosion during the typhoon period. The wave water increase is apparent in the nearshore wave-breaking area. The beach shoulder in the northeastern part of the beach is short, and the profile, with a short length, responds quickly to the typhoon. The eroded sediment is mainly deposited in the lower part of the intertidal zone or even transported outside of the wave-breaking zone, and a small part is transported to the shore and deposited in the high-tide zone. The continuous sediment transport along the coast of Chudao Beach is an important factor that influenced the evolution of each profile during Typhoon Lekima. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This document is a correction notice for an article titled "Spatio-Temporal Morphodynamics of a Nourished Sandy Shore Based on LiDAR Measurements." The correction addresses errors in the original publication, specifically inappropriate citations in the Discussion section. The correction provides the correct references and clarifies the phenomenon of heightened dune erosion in the area, attributing it to long, oblique depressions in the bottom topography. The correction also discusses the ongoing coastal protection efforts on the Hel Peninsula in Poland and the causes of erosion in the area. The authors state that the scientific conclusions of the article are unaffected by the correction. [Extracted from the article]

Gravel barrier beaches can offer natural protection to coastlines from adverse storm conditions. Understanding the morphodynamics of gravel barrier beaches is vital for the effective and sustainable management of these systems. Here, we use a synthetic dataset to investigate the morphodynamic response of the gravel barrier beach at Hurst Castle Spit, located on the Southwest coast of the United Kingdom, to both unimodal and bimodal storms. This spit is exposed to wind and swell waves propagating up the English Channel from the Southwest approaches and has suffered repeated storm erosion. The results are analyzed to identify the key drivers that govern the spatio-temporal gravel barrier morphodynamic responses to storms and to explore the morphodynamic states of the barrier. We found that the morphodynamic response of the barrier beach is strongly influenced by the combination of storm wave height and still water level. Further, the presence of swell waves can be a controlling factor in the barrier response.

The compatibility of sediments in terms of grain size, composition and colour among beaches and strategic sediment deposits (SSD) along Western Sardinia (Western Mediterranean Sea) were assessed to explore management strategy in the protection and adaptation to counteract the beach erosion and the effect of sea level rise along sandy shores. Twelve beaches, mainly conditioned by geological control, due to the presence of extensive rocky outcrops in the sea, enclosed in seven sedimentary cells (defined by the continuity of sediment transport pathways and by identification of boundaries where there are discontinuities), were characterised in terms of sediment composition and grain size. One hundred ninety-three beach sediments and one hundred sediments from SSDs were collected and analysed for sediment grain size, carbonate content and sediment colour. The beach sediments are composed by gravel to fine sands (D50: from 81 µm to 4986 µm) with siliciclastic and biogenic carbonate sediments mixed in different proportions (0–100% in CaCO3). The SSDs sediments are gravels to medium-fine sand (D50: from 96 µm to 1769 µm) composed by biogenic carbonate sands mixed with siliciclastic grains (0–100% in CaCO3). To be able to evaluate the compatibility between the beaches and SSDs, a multivariate statistical procedure was applied to grain size dataset. Our results show that 8 beaches have strategic deposits of compatible grain size and composition, whereas only 2 beaches have compatible strategic deposits of both grain size and colour. This may be related to the different sediment sources and depositional processes of sediment along the coastal cells and the continental shelf. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Overwash is the cross‐shore transport of water and sediment from a waterbody over the crest of a sand or gravel barrier beach, and washover is the resulting sedimentary deposit. Washover volume, and alongshore patterns of washover distribution, are fundamental components of sediment budgets for low‐lying coastal barrier systems. Accurate sediment budgets are essential to forecasting barrier system sustainability under future climate‐driven forcing. However, comprehensive surveys of three‐dimensional washover morphology are challenging to deliver. Here, we use the results of a physical experiment, analysis of lidar data, and examples of washover characteristics reported in the literature to develop scaling relationships for washover morphometry that demonstrate volume can be reasonably inferred from planform measurements, for washover in natural (non‐built) and built barrier settings. Gaining three‐dimensional insight into washover deposits from two‐dimensional information unlocks the ability to analyze past aerial imagery and estimate contributions from washover flux to sediment budgets for past storms. Plain Language Summary: When a coastal storm drives water up and over the crest of a beach, sediment gets picked up by the flow and deposited behind the beach. That deposit, which might settle among dunes, on a marsh, or on the streets of a neighborhood, is called washover. Knowing the total volume of washover delivered by a storm event helps coastal managers account for the amount of sediment that moves through a beach system over time, known as a sediment budget. An accurate sediment budget provides an indication of environmental functioning and sustainability. However, washover volume is expensive to measure over large spatial scales—so despite its importance to sediment budgets, washover volume often goes unquantified. What if three‐dimensional washover volume could be estimated from the two‐dimensional shape and size of washover deposits visible in aerial photos? Here, we created washover deposits in a laboratory and compared them to washover in field settings to show that the area of a washover deposit is a good predictor of its volume. This relationship between area and volume unlocks information about past storm deposition captured in aerial photo archives, and enables estimation of washover volume where direct measurement of volume is unavailable or impossible. Key Points: Washover volume can be estimated from washover areaScaling relationships for washover size and shape link measurements from a physical experiment and field examplesEstimation of washover volume from aerial imagery is a step toward quantifying storm‐driven contributions to sediment budgets [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Mercaldi, B.; Brideau, L.E.; Tait, J.F., and Griggs, G., 2022. Seasonal morphological variability on estuarine beaches and implications for low-energy beach management. Journal of Coastal Research, 38(6), 1135–1147. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Estuarine beaches and other low-energy shorelines are critical for habitats and coastal infrastructure protection. Many different species inhabit estuaries because of the water bodies' unique characteristics, such as their mixed seawater and freshwater and variable tidal ranges. Estuarine beaches also have the important role of buffering storm wave energy. Yet, their natural physical processes are understudied. This research focuses on seasonal morphological variability of estuarine, low-energy beaches and evaluates the implications for beach management practices. Five sandy beaches were studied along the northern shoreline of Long Island Sound in the northeastern region of the United States. The studied beaches vary in location, width, length, and orientation within Long Island Sound to represent different exposures to wave energy. Three seasonal profiles were measured at each beach approximately every four months from late 2015 to early 2019 to document topographic changes. The results revealed minimal sediment movement throughout the study period and there was no evidence of significant cyclic cross-shore sediment transport to indicate patterns of seasonal profile changes. These findings reveal important implications for beach management practices on low-energy shorelines. Specifically, estuarine and other low-energy beaches should be studied on decadal time scales to document any long-term variability and post-storm recovery rather than the monthly or yearly time scales on which open-ocean beaches are typically evaluated. Additionally, estuarine beaches and other low-energy shorelines require specialized management practices that cater to their stagnancy to ensure adequate protection of coastal structures and infrastructure in the face of intensifying hurricanes and sea level rise. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Impacts from a changing climate, in particular sea-level rise, will be most acutely felt on small oceanic islands. A common configuration of mid-latitude islands is the sandy barrier island. Sable Island, Nova Scotia, Canada is a vegetated sand island near the shelf edge, 160 km from the nearest point of land, that is morphologically similar to a barrier island. This study uses 60 years of airphoto records to analyse changes in coastline position through digitized shore and vegetation (foredune proxy) lines. Rates of coastal movement are analysed to model the future (2039) coastal configuration. The analyses suggest that the majority of the coastline on Sable Island is in retreat, with net retreat on the south side of the island only partially offset by modest net advance on the north side. The different morphologies of the beach–dune systems of South Beach and North Beach, driven by incident wind and waves, yield these different coastline responses. Projected loss of 10 ha by 2039 of the climax heath vegetative community to shoreline retreat suggests a trend toward island instability due to coastline migration. Island-wide data set trends show support for two different but complementary hypotheses about whole-island evolution: (1) the island is mobile via bank migration driving southern coastline changes and experiencing sediment transport toward the east, or (2) the island is generally immobile and losing subaerial sediments (and thus shrinking) likely due to ongoing (and accelerating) sea-level rise. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Small uncrewed aerial systems (sUASs) provide an efficient way to reveal processes controlling the morphology of sandy shorelines so that they can be more effectively managed. One of Hawaiʻi's most popular tourist destinations, Waikīkī's Royal Hawaiian Beach, features patterns of sediment transport driven by trade-wind activity, seasonal wave conditions, tropical storm activity, and other phenomena that make it an effective laboratory for the study of beach morphology. To evaluate the efficacy of using consumer-grade sUASs to monitor subaerial sand volume and processes that drive beach morphodynamics, we conducted weekly aerial and ground surveys from which high-resolution point clouds, digital elevation models, and orthomosaics were generated through structure from motion (SfM) photogrammetry. Our period of observation (April to November 2018) bracketed the Central Pacific hurricane season and the season of elevated southerly swell. Both phenomena are known to significantly influence sediment transport in the study area. Using empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analysis, we described combinations of single and dual littoral cell behavior generated by both longshore sediment transport and abrupt episodic fluctuations in cross-shore transport. While past studies have investigated morphological change at this location, this unique single and dual cell behavior within the greater littoral system had not been previously revealed. This study demonstrates that sUASs are capable of capturing high-resolution spatial and temporal topographic data that allow for detailed evaluation of both seasonal processes and abrupt perturbations of beach systems. These processes drive significant changes in beach area, volume, and overall beach morphology and their understanding critical to effective management in an era of sea level rise-driven change. The employed methodology was designed to be highly efficient and universally applicable to sandy shorelines whilst also being relatively inexpensive and instrumentation readily available, allowing for a more comprehensive understanding of these unique coastal environments. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

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The main purpose of the research was to develop appropriate tools for forecasting the effects of storms. The use of the high-resolution SWAN wave model powered by AROME wind fields to couple it with the SWANOneSed sediment transport model and a model using the Ruggiero formula, predicting the extent of the flooded shore, allowed the development of reliable tools for forecasting the effects of storms. Validation using qualitative analysis showed that the results obtained from the coupled SWANOneSed model are characterized by high consistency in intensification and direction of changes. The model using the Ruggiero formula obtained a high value of the correlation coefficient, i.e. 0.970 and 0.992 for the Satbałtyk-Xbeach model data, based on the Hunt&Mase formula, and the high-resolution Pleiades Neo satellite data, respectively. By combining models from the SWAN family, i.e. the SWAN and SWANOneSed wave model and a model using the Ruggiero formula, it was possible to obtain reliable and compatible tools enabling an uninterrupted and synchronized operational process of generating forecasts of storm effects. [Display omitted] • The coupling of the SWAN & SWANOneSed enables reliable and operational forecasting. • Measured & terrain surveyed data-fed model are consistent with other observed data. • Formula van Rijn reliably reproduces sediment transport in various types of coasts. • The Ruggiero formula is applicable in various parts of the Polish coast. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study investigated the beach nourishment effect and topographical changes when using nourishment sand with relatively large particle diameters to perform beach nourishment on a beach subject to erosion. A physical model test was conducted in a 2D wave flume with an installed wind tunnel. The experiment examined the sediment transport mechanism under conditions with wind and waves. Although applying nourishment sand with large particle diameters attenuated sediment transport, the increase in particle diameter was not always proportional to the reduction in topographical changes. Increasing the particle diameter of the nourishment sand increased the friction force between particles, resulting in large-scale erosion and accretion around the coastline, and this trend increased with winds. Also, with wind, the wave run-up height increased, the undertow became stronger, and large-scale scouring occurred at the boundary between the nourishment sand and the existing beach. Increasing the particle diameter of the nourishment sand played a role in reducing the run-up phenomenon (d50: 1.0 mm with 24–50%, d50: 5.0 mm with 59–83%), and the range of particles moved by winds also decreased (d50: 1.0 mm with 10–38%, d50: 5.0 mm with 5–37%).

The three-dimensional liquid–sediment system of a coastline was investigated using experimental and numerical approaches. A scaled-down model of the coastline was numerically studied using smooth particle hydrodynamics (SPH). The flow dynamics and the impacts of the wave frequency and the seaward slope angle on the breaking wave characteristics of the two-phase liquid–sediment interaction were parametrically studied. A particle image velocimetry (PIV) experiment was conducted to validate the SPH predictions. It was found that the flow profiles obtained by the PIV and SPH are in good agreement both qualitatively and quantitatively. The maximum velocity of the fluid flow was recorded as 0.5623 m/s in the SPH simulation, but as 0.5860 m/s in the PIV experimental, with a percentage difference of 4.21%. Subsequently, it was found that the breaking wave characteristic is surging at the wave frequency range of f<0.15 Hz, plunging at 0.15

Field measurements of aeolian sediment transport during major storm events are challenging in coastal settings due to the common coincidence of high winds with elevated water levels that can cover beaches. This work demonstrates a new application of lidar to remotely measure properties of wind‐blown sand transport at high spatial resolution. A data set of spatially continuous saltation heights was remotely developed from rapid (7.1 Hz) lidar scanning along a two‐dimensional transect across a beach during wind speeds of between 3.1 and 15.8 m/s associated with the passing of Tropical Storm Isaias. Outputs from the lidar demonstrate the ability to remotely observe the threshold velocity for the initiation of motion for sand transport and show that the upper limit of the saltation layer rises with increasing wind speed. Plain Language Summary: Wind can be an important contributor to landscape changes in sandy desert and coastal environments. There are complex mechanisms by which wind moves sand that are not yet entirely understood. To answer questions about how, when, and why sand is transported by wind, experiments commonly use point‐based sensors that are unable to capture the full spatial and temporal complexity of sand movement very close to the ground. This paper shows that new laser sensors can be utilized to remotely measure properties of sand transport simultaneously at multiple points and with increased detail compared to prior approaches. High resolution, remote measurements from a tropical storm event are used to show how high wind‐blown sand is lifted off of the ground surface and how different wind speeds influence these sand transport patterns. Key Points: Wind‐driven sand transport can be measured using repeat terrestrial laser scanningRemote measurements are used to characterize time and space variable saltation heights during energetic wind forcingMaximum saltation heights respond to changes in wind speed on a coastal beach [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Although geologically constrained sandy beaches are ubiquitous along wave-exposed coasts, there is still a limited understanding of their morphological response, particularly under storm conditions, which is mainly due to a critical lack of nearshore bathymetry observations. This paper examines the potential to derive bathymetries from video imagery under challenging wave conditions in order to investigate headland control on morphological beach response. For this purpose, a video-based linear depth inversion algorithm is applied to three consecutive weeks of frames collected during daylight hours from a single fixed camera located at La Petite Chambre d'Amour beach (Anglet, SW France). Video-derived bathymetries are compared against in situ topo-bathymetric surveys carried out at the beginning and end of the field experiment in order to assess the performance of the bathymetric estimates. The results show that the rates of accretion/erosion within the surf zone are strongly influenced by the headland, whereas the beach morphological response can be classified into three main regimes depending on the angle of wave incidence θ p : (1) under deflection configuration ( θ p > 0 ° ), the alongshore sediment transport was trapped at the updrift side of the headland, promoting sand accretion. (2) Under shadowed configuration ( θ p < 0 ° ), the interruption of the longshore current drove a deficit of sand supply at the downdrift side of the headland, leading to an overall erosion in the surf zone. (3) Under shore-normal configuration ( θ p = 0 ° ), rip channels developed, and up-state beach transition was observed. A comparison between video-derived bathymetries and surveys shows an overall root mean square error (RMSE) around 0.49 to 0.57 m with a bias ranging between −0.36 and −0.29 m. The results show that video-derived bathymetries can provide new insight into the morphological change driven by storm events. The combination of such inferred bathymetry with video-derived surface current data is discussed, showing great potential to address the coupled morphodynamics system under time-varying wave conditions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Cheng, J. and Wang, P., 2022. Factors controlling storm-induced morphology changes at an erosional hot spot on a nourished beach, Sand Key barrier island, west-central Florida. Journal of Coastal Research, 38(4), 750–765. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Beach nourishment has become the dominant sandy shore protection method over the past 40 years. The performance of nourished beaches and therefore the design of renourishment projects are significantly controlled by the presence of erosional hot spots and storm impacts. Based on 5.5-year bimonthly beach profile surveys, along a nourished beach spanning an erosional hot spot, this study examines the hydrodynamic conditions of extratropical (winter) and tropical (summer) storms that cause significant morphology changes. The sand volume loss above the short-term closure depth averaged along the 1.8-km stretch erosional hot spot was 178 m3/m over the 5.5 years after the nourishment. A large portion of this volume loss was caused by several extratropical storms and Hurricane Irma in 2017, when the high, northerly approaching waves were associated with a depressed water level. The northerly approaching waves induced a large longshore sediment transport gradient along the generally north-south trending coast due to wave refraction over a nearby ebb tidal delta. The energetic Hurricane Irma induced a large negative surge and also transported sediment seaward beyond the short-term closure depth. On the other hand, during the passages of typical tropical storms, the southerly approaching waves superimposed on elevated water levels caused substantial beach volume loss above the mean sea level. The eroded sediment deposited on the nearshore sandbar, resulting in conserved sand volume above the short-term closure depth. Understanding the different beach response to extratropical and tropical storms would benefit beach management, especially under the circumstance of increasing storm activities due to climate change. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

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Coastal erosion is a natural phenomenon that occurs when sediment transport away from the coast is not countered by the formation of new material on the shoreline. This is indeed a problem that is driving the erosion of coastal areas. A sea wall and a groin were created to prevent coastal erosion and floods. The future topography of the beach is being investigated using shoreline evolution analysis. Erosion, accretion, and sea level changes are basic stages that have a significant impact on the coastal structure. A qualitative analysis of the model coastal behavior in relation to the controlling process is required to research beach erosion and beach deposition. When stated in terms of non-dimensional variables, all are mathematically equivalent. In general, the models do not have to be dimensionally different. Those might just be modifications of the same problems. One can solve a wide range of models with a single solution to the related nondimensional equation. In this research, we provide a governing equation when a groin is introduced to a one-dimensional shoreline growth model. A non-dimensional shoreline evolution model with a groin structure model is provided. The model now has the ability to manipulate physical parameters. When groin structural effects are present, the initial condition setting method and boundary condition approaches are also given. To approximate the incremental model in each year, the forward time-centered space technique and the unconditionally stable Saulyev finite difference methods are used. The Saulyev finite difference approach can handle numerical solutions in almost any scenario since the stability requirements are not restricted. The Saulyev finite difference technique can be very useful for computing a practical conceptual design of shoreline evolution since the number of grids has increased. The numerical models offered provide a viable simulation for evaluating long-term coastal development. The proposed modeling may be used to forecast the effectiveness of constructing a groin system on a local beach. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Beach erosion at the unprotected downdrift end of a groin is common with waves approaching the structure obliquely. This phenomenon has often occurred on the downdrift side of natural groins on the east coast of South Korea during high waves in winter months. The resulting planform assumes a distinctive crenulate shape with a maximum indentation point landward of the erosion. An analytical model is employed to study the beach erosion at the downdrift end of a natural rock groin at Jeongdongjin Beach in Korea, using mathematical equations derived from the parabolic model for headland-bay beaches in static equilibrium, to predict the downdrift control point and maximum indentation of the eroded shoreline. These equations are solved using the prevailing wave height, wave angle at breaking and wave direction derived from analyzing NOAA's wave data over 40 years and the longshore sediment transport rate calculated from the wave data. The location of the calculated maximum indentation is also verified using shoreline video monitoring data and compared with the result of a one-line numerical model for shoreline change. The limitation of the proposed analytical model is discussed as is the effect of sediment bypassing the groin. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal storm erosion can lead to episodic morphological changes and hinterland flooding that requires sustainable management. An accurate estimation of storm erosion can determine the success of hazard mitigation strategies. Two morphological models, Delft3D and XBeach, were applied separately to a stormy period with "Roller" and "No Roller" wave dynamics activated, to estimate erosion of the beach and dune system on the Sylt island. This is the first numerical impact assessment of roller dynamics on coastal erosion using the two models. The choice of model had more impact on the hydrodynamic and morphological predictions than the option to include or omit roller dynamics. Agreement between measured and simulated waves was higher in Delft3D (R2 > 0.90 and RMSE < 0.15 m) than XBeach. Storm erosion in both models had the highest sensitivity to the roller parameter Beta. Both models predicted a similar storm erosion pattern along the coast, albeit different magnitudes. It is found that Delft3D cannot produce comparable storm erosion to XBeach, when the roller dynamics and avalanching are considered. Delft3D is less sensitive to the roller dynamics than XBeach. Including roller dynamics in Delft3D increased storm erosion up to 31% and in XBeach decreased the erosion down to 58% in the nearshore area, while the erosion in the dune area increased up to 13% in Deflt3D and up to 97% in XBeach. Both models are skilled in simulating storm impact. For the simulation of a storm period with intermittent calm periods, it is suggested that applying a time-varying parameter setting for wave dynamics and sediment transport to capture storm erosion and post-storm beach recovery processes could improve results. Such a modelling approach may ultimately increase the accuracy of estimating storm erosion to support coastal management activities (e.g., sand nourishment volume). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Beaches are important coastal features that provide vital ecosystem services; however, these systems are threatened by coastal erosion, sea-level rise, and coastal squeeze. Beach nourishments are a commonly applied coastal protection measure to mitigate erosion and flood risks while maintaining or enhancing recreational values. Nourishments vary in scale from mega-nourishments to small-scale nourishments, where the latter has typically been less studied due to the limited resources for monitoring. Meanwhile, with rising sea levels, the implementation of small-scale nourishments is expected to increase, and there is a need for more knowledge about the morphological evolution and technical lifetime of these interventions. In this study, the morphological responses of small-scale beach nourishment (total volume 20,000 m3 which amounts to 30 m3 added per m alongshore) are observed and quantified over various timescales, considering the initial adjustment, long-term development, and event-driven response. The investigated nourishment is implemented in a partly sheltered coastal embayment in the semi-enclosed Baltic Sea, which has a complex interaction between waves and water levels. Furthermore, the beach is surrounded by hard structures, a rock revetment at the back, and a harbor mole and a groin, influencing the longshore and cross-shore sediment transport. The results show that substantial reduction in subaerial volume can be attributed to specific events. In addition, we observed considerable spatial variation in the sediment re-distribution induced by hard structures and variability in the nearshore bathymetry. The lifetime of the beach nourishment is just over two years. The nourished material remains in the system at the end of the lifetime but is not available for beach recovery. Still, the added subaerial volume has eroded at the midsection, and the protective beach width has been reduced, leaving the rock revetment exposed with reduced protection for the hinterland. The energy conditions at the site are highly episodic, which impacts morphological evolution, and observations indicate that the development is event-driven. • Beach morphodynamics in a low-energy coastal embayment • Episodic wave activity and water level variations are influenced by basin effects. • Morphological response of a small-scale beach nourishment at different timescales • Beach nourishment performance during an extreme storm surge [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

While the impact of the spatio/temporal variability of grain size on morphological beach state is reasonably well understood, relatively little is known on its impact at a scale of days/months on aeolian sediment transport. This study focuses on five short intensive wind events during which aeolian sediment transport measurements, beach surface sampling and elevation change surveys were carried out for 1 to 3 days, over a 16-month period on a microtidal beach dominated by offshore winds. Monthly observations show a high temporal variability in beach grain size in relation to the decoupling between hydrodynamic and aeolian processes, from medium sand after a marine storm and inundation of the beach, to very coarse sand after several weeks of storm-force winds. During each wind event, topographic change on the beach ranged from zero, to 0.55 m. The time scale of coarsening depended on the initial beach grain size and could be very fast when the beach was composed of medium sand (e.g. 388 μm sand changed to coarse sand of 547 μm in 40 h). In contrast, it took one month to transition from a coarse median beach grain size of 883 μm to a very coarse one of 1323 μm. This variability in grain size results in dramatically different rates of sediment flux. For example, during average wind speeds of 10 to 14 m/s the sediment flux when the beach was composed of medium sized sand ranged between 21 and 154 kg/m/h compared to 0.4 to 50 kg/m/h when the beach was composed of coarse and very coarse sized grains. Overall, this study highlights the importance of beach grain size variability on aeolian sediment transport and shows that for similar incident wind and climatic conditions aeolian sediment transport rates vary dramatically. The study demonstrates the importance of taking care when using a constant median grain size in the calculation of long-term aeolian sand transport on beaches with heterogeneous spatial and temporal beach grain size variability. • Transport rates can be ten times greater on medium-sized beach than coarse one. • Offshore wind generate a grain size sorting, the finest sands are exported seaward. • Topographic variations of the beach depends on its grain size and sand supply. • The return of fine sediments depends on marine storms occurrence and intensities. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Beach loss is a growing global challenge that threatens the safety of coastal communities, the health of coastal ecosystems, recreational amenities, and regional economies dependent on tourism. Spatial gradients in longshore sediment transport, or divergence of drift (DoD), is a primary driver of beach width change over multi-annual time scales, but the response of any particular beach can be challenging to characterize and predict. Here we present a new method to characterize DoD using a non-uniform segmentation of the coastline informed by the spatial distribution of longshore transport potential, including the location of physical barriers identified using satellite imagery, and both maxima and reversals in longshore transport potential derived from nearshore wave data. The method demonstrates improved capacity to predict beach width trends at sandy beaches compared to methods that rely on a uniform segmentation of the coastline. In an application to southern California where satellite data documents two decades of beach width change, the non-uniform segmentation method correctly predicts the sign of beach trends at 93% of transects within a littoral cell and achieves a linear correlation between DoD and beach width trends exceeding 0.8. Moreover, we find that a minimum of five years of data are required to establish consistently strong correlations between DoD and beach width changes. Conversely, use of a uniform segmentation is shown to be unreliable for estimating beach width trends due to strong sensitivities to shoreline segment size. This work shows the potential to leverage nearshore wave data and satellite-based beach width data for improved characterization of shoreline dynamics relevant to beach erosion management. • A new shoreline modeling method is presented for estimating divergence of drift. • Segment boundaries are identified using longshore transport characteristics. • Strong correlations were shown between divergence of drift and beach width trends. • A littoral Peclet number characterizes the dominant longshore transport mechanism. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In many parts, coastal erosion is severe due to human-induced coastal zone development and storm impacts, in addition to climate change. In this study, the beach erosion risk was defined, followed by a quantitative assessment of potential beach erosion risk based on three components associated with the watershed, coastal zone development, and episodic storms. On an embayed beach, the background erosion due to development in the watershed affects sediment supply from rivers to the beach, while alongshore redistribution of sediment transport caused by construction of a harbor induces shoreline reshaping, for which the parabolic-type equilibrium bay shape model is adopted. To evaluate beach erosion during storms, the return period (frequency) of a storm occurrence was evaluated from long-term beach survey data conducted four times per year. Beach erosion risk was defined, and assessment was carried out for each component, from which the results were combined to construct a combined potential erosion risk curve to be used in the environmental impact assessment. Finally, the proposed method was applied to Bongpo–Cheonjin Beach in Gangwon-do, South Korea, with the support of a series of aerial photographs taken from 1972 to 2017 and beach survey data obtained from the period commencing in 2010. The satisfactory outcomes derived from this study are expected to benefit eroding beaches elsewhere. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Dune height is an important predictor of impact during a storm event given that taller dunes have a lower likelihood of being overtopped than shorter dunes. However, the temporal dominance of the wave collision regime, wherein volume loss (erosion) from the dune occurs through dune retreat without overtopping, suggests that dune width must also be considered when evaluating the vulnerability of dunes to erosion. We use XBeach, a numerical model that simulates hydrodynamic processes, sediment transport, and morphologic change, to analyze storm-induced dune erosion as a function of dune aspect ratio (i.e., dune height versus dune width) for storms of varying intensity and duration. We find that low aspect ratio (low and wide) dunes lose less volume than high aspect ratio (tall and narrow) dunes during longer and more intense storms when the beach width is controlled for. In managed dune scenarios, where sand fences are used to construct a "fenced" dune seaward of the existing "natural" dune, we find that fenced dunes effectively prevent the natural dune behind them from experiencing any volume loss until the fenced dune is sufficiently eroded, reducing the magnitude of erosion of the natural dune by up to 50 %. We then control for dune morphology to assess volume loss as a function of beach width and confirm that beach width exerts a significant influence on dune erosion; a wide beach offers the greatest protection from erosion in all circumstances while the width of the dune determines how long the dune will last under persistent scarping. These findings suggest that efforts to maintain a wide beach may be effective at protecting coastal communities from dune loss. However, a trade-off may exist in maintaining wide beaches and dunes in that the protection offered in the short-term must be considered in concert with potentially long-term detrimental effects of limiting overwash, a process which is critical to maintaining island elevation as sea level rises. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Featured Application: The video monitoring system used in this study can be applied for monitoring coastal processes of erosion and recovery and thus can be useful in designing beach protection/prevention plans for damage by storm waves. Once a beach is eroded by storm waves, it is generally recovered under milder wave conditions. To prevent or reduce damage, it is therefore important to understand the characteristics of the site-specific recovery process. Here, we present the results, based on a data set from a video monitoring system and wave measurements, of the recovery process in a pocketed beach located inside a bay where the shoreline retreated harshly (~12 m, on average, of beach width) during Typhoon TAPAH (T1917) in September 2019. It took about 1.5 years for the beach to be recovered to the level before the typhoon. During this period, the erosion and accretion were repeated, with the pattern highly related to the wave power ( P w ); most of the erosion occurred when P w became greater than 30 kWatt/m, whereas the accretion prevailed when P w was no greater than 10 kWatt/m. The recovery pattern showed discrepancies between different parts of the beach. The erosion during storm events was most severe in the southern part, whereas the northern shoreline did not significantly change even during TAPAH (T1917). In contrast, the recovery process occurred almost equally at all locations. This discrepancy in the erosion/accretion process was likely due to human intervention, as a shadow zone was formed in the northern end due to the breakwaters, causing disequilibrium in the sediment transport gradient along the shore. The results in this study could be applied in designing the protection plans from severe wave attacks by effectively estimating the size of coastal structures and by correctly arranging the horizontal placement of such interventions or beach nourishment. Although the application of these results should be confined to this specific site, the method using wave energy parameters as criteria can be considered in other areas with similar environments, for future planning of beach protection. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper presents the use of an Eulerian–Eulerian multi-phase model to examine sediment transport over a gravel beach under regular waves. A previously published full-scale experiment is reproduced numerically; the simulated wave deformation, flow velocity, pore pressure, and morphological evolution are consistent with measurements. The multi-phase model can produce berm formation for smaller waves and beach erosion for larger waves as observation in previous field studies. The sensitivity analysis suggests that the nonlinear component of drag has significant effect on the berm formation through infiltration and exfiltration. The two simulated forces applied on the sediment (drag and buoyancy) are examined. The drag is the main force directly for sediment transport; therefore the sediment transport rate has high correlation with depth-averaged flow velocity. The buoyancy that is caused by plunging flow impacting beach face can push the sediment landward in the bore front, where the flow acceleration has its peak. The flow acceleration is considered in some previous sediment transport models empirically for simulating morphological evolution of gravel beach under waves. The buoyancy links the flow acceleration and sediment transport rate in the bore front. • Sediment transport in a gravel beach is simulated using a multiphase model. • The drag is the main force directly for sediment transport. • The buoyancy links the flow acceleration and sediment transport rate in the bore front. • The nonlinear drag has the effect on berm formation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Storm surge, a major disaster in coastal areas, is generated by tropical cyclones. Strong currents and waves during storm surges often cause sediment transport and beach erosion, significantly damaging the coastal ecosystem. This paper presents a flow-wave-sediment-morphodynamic coupled model to predict morphodynamic changes caused by overwash during storm surges. In the model, the flow field is calculated using the generalized shallow water equations coupled with the Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) model, while sediment transport and bed changes are computed using a non-equilibrium total-load sediment transport model. The model solves the governing equations by employing the explicit finite-volume approach based on a rectangular mesh. The Godunov-type central upwind scheme is adopted to calculate the interface fluxes, thereby solving the complex Riemann problem. A series of numerical experiments considering wave-induced longshore current and short-term bed erosion are conducted to validate the established model and demonstrate its ability to simulate waves, flow fields, and bed changes during storm surge. Specifically, we used the model to simulate the morphological evolution of the Santa Rosa barrier island caused by Hurricane Ivan's storm surge, and the results indicate that the model accurately predicts the real-case erosion process caused by storm surge and overwash during the hurricane. The simulated results clearly explain overwash development, including washover fans, foredune erosion, and back-barrier deposition. It demonstrates that the front dune significantly eroded with the Santa Rosa barrier island coastline retreating by a maximum of about 80 m during the storm surge. More than three breaches with a width of up to 135 m were formed on the sandy barrier due to wave overwash, while the topography at the breach changed significantly. • A new flow-wave-sediment-morphodynamic coupled model is developed to predict morphodynamic changes caused by overwash during storm surges. • A series of numerical experiments conducted using the new model demonstrates its ability and it successfully predicts the overwash erosion of the Santa Rosa barrier island during Hurricane Ivan's storm surge. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

During August 2018 – November 2019, the transport pathways of dredge material from a specially constructed nearshore feeder berm were investigated as part of a collaborative study by the City of South Padre Island, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers–Galveston District, U.S. Geological Survey, Partrac GeoMarine Inc., and Texas A&M University, into the efficacy of beneficial use dredge material (BUDM) as a method of replenishing the beach profile and shoreface at South Padre Island, Texas with sediment. Dual-signature (fluorescent and ferrimagnetic) tracer particles, designed to be hydraulically equivalent to the dredge material, were placed on the berm, and a sampling program was initiated to monitor the spatiotemporal movement of tracer particles under the influence of the prevailing hydrodynamic regime. Wave and current data were collected and were used together with available metocean data to identify the forcing mechanisms of sediment transport; improved understanding garnered from the consideration of multiple datasets can be used to inform future coastal management decisions. Tracer analysis results indicated low magnitude, shoreward transport of dredge material from the berm and along shore transport in both northerly and southerly directions. Small amounts of tracer detected in beach face samples demonstrated connectivity between the constructed feeder berm and the shoreface. However, the generally low tracer concentration within beach face samples indicated low rates of sediment transport for berm sediments, and a low magnitude sediment transport pathway from the berm directly to the beach face, with possible storage of sediment in the nearshore bar system. Given that the berm was at or beyond the closure depth and considering the relatively weak prevailing near bottom hydrodynamic conditions, the potential for sediment to be mobilized and transported during the study period was generally low. Periods of higher energy waves, driven by north-northwest winds, were identified as a key driver of sediment transport but due to the infrequent nature of these events the sediment transport regime across the area of interest was temporally limited. Longshore movement of sediment was both north and south, mainly dependent on prevailing wind directions and resulting longshore currents. We discuss implications for coastal zone management and the use of feeder berms as an artificial beach nourishment mechanism to replenish sediments lost by coastal erosional processes. The insight into nearshore emplacement of material can be used by local governments and coastal managers to optimize the efficacy of berm emplacement and implement such schemes as a cost-effective nourishment option, or when onshore placement of material is not feasible. • Hydrodynamic and tracer measurements were effective monitors of sediment transport. • Hydrodynamic monitoring indicated relatively weak sediment transport conditions. • Tracer sampling confirmed that transport to replenish the beach was low magnitude. • Consider sediment transport regime before selection of BUDM placement area. • Licensed BUDM placement areas may not be optimal for beach nourishment. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami and the 2011 Tōhoku earthquake and tsunami caused large-scale topographic changes in coastal areas. Whereas much research has focused on coastlines that have or had large human populations, little focus has been paid to coastlines that have little or no infrastructure. The importance of examining erosional and depositional mechanisms of tsunami events lies in the rapid reorganization that coastlines must undertake immediately after an event. A thorough understanding of the pre-event conditions is paramount to understanding the natural reconstruction of the coastal environment. This study examines the location of sediment erosion and deposition during the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami event on the relatively pristine Phra Thong Island, Thailand. Coupled with satellite imagery, we use numerical simulations and sediment transportation models to determine the locations of significant erosion and the areas where much of that sediment was redeposited during the tsunami inundation and backwash processes. Our modeling approach suggests that beaches located in two regions on Phra Thong Island were significantly eroded by the 2004 tsunami, predominantly during the backwash phase of the first and largest wave to strike the island. Although 2004 tsunami deposits are found on the island, we demonstrate that most of the sediment was deposited in the shallow coastal area, facilitating quick recovery of the beach when normal coastal processes resumed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

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This paper explores the combination of unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV) photogrammetry and an e-GNSS survey to investigate the short-term geomorphic change and dynamic evolution of a beach system in 2015. The RMS values of the ground control points and checkpoints validate that the accuracy of UAV-SfM photogrammetry is suitable for the rapid and frequent acquisition of 3D survey data from a beach environment. We produced four digital surface models (DSMs) to determine the short-term beach topographic response to well-known western Pacific typhoons, the NE monsoon and anthropogenic construction using multitemporal surface analysis. We investigated the magnitude of the erosion caused by intense typhoons; however, the beach-dune system generally recovers through sediment transport processes in winter. Beach monitoring also reveals that the overall sand volume of this beach was reducing in short-term period. Given that the sand budget of Shanshui beach would have been continuing to reduce, this may be a negative warning to this precious tourism resource. The dynamic evolution of this beach may result in the formation of a tombolo. This study demonstrates the feasibility and survey efficiency of UAV-SfM photogrammetry for coastal monitoring, and the technique will contribute to identifying the risk to beach systems and will benefit sustainable coastal management. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]