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Storms and extremely energetic events may significantly impact the form and structure of beaches, and so cause erosive processes and coastal damages. Efficient management actions require an up-to-date and accurate knowledge of beach morphological changes, with the shoreline position being a good indicator of such changes. This work proposes the use of the open-source Shoreline Analysis and Extraction Tool (SAET) software for the definition of satellite-derived shorelines (SDSs) from L8 and Sentinel-2 imagery to reveal the shoreline position changes at the beaches of the Ebro Delta, NE Spain. Spatial-temporal models (STMs) of shoreline changes enable a characterisation of how the beaches responded to the storms of 2020. In conjunction with wave data, STMs enable an analysis of the erosive response to storm events, as well as a monitoring of subsequent beach recovery in the short and medium term (<1 year). Results show how Storm Gloria (January 2020, Hs max = 7.62 m) acted as a disruptive event and shifting point in the shoreline trend. As a response to that storm, major erosive processes occurred along the delta that caused an average shoreline retreat of 47 m. A progressive recovery during the spring and summer was mainly associated with periods of low wave energy. Nevertheless, by the end of the year a complete recovery had been achieved for about half of the coast, while the other half showed an average erosion of more than 10 m when compared to the pre-storm situation. Both the erosive and the recovery processes took place unevenly on different sections of the coast, probably dependent on factors such as the orientation of the beach and the pattern of longitudinal sediment transport along the coast. • Automatic shoreline extraction from Sentinel 2 and Landsat 8 imagery using SAET. • Pre and post-storm characterisation of SDS position in time and space using STMs. • Storm Gloria (January 2020) caused an unprecedented and heterogeneous impact on the Ebro Delta. • Slow recovery occurred in the months following the event conditioned by orientation and wave patterns. • About half of the delta showed a significant shoreline retreat by the end of 2020. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Storm surge, a major disaster in coastal areas, is generated by tropical cyclones. Strong currents and waves during storm surges often cause sediment transport and beach erosion, significantly damaging the coastal ecosystem. This paper presents a flow-wave-sediment-morphodynamic coupled model to predict morphodynamic changes caused by overwash during storm surges. In the model, the flow field is calculated using the generalized shallow water equations coupled with the Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) model, while sediment transport and bed changes are computed using a non-equilibrium total-load sediment transport model. The model solves the governing equations by employing the explicit finite-volume approach based on a rectangular mesh. The Godunov-type central upwind scheme is adopted to calculate the interface fluxes, thereby solving the complex Riemann problem. A series of numerical experiments considering wave-induced longshore current and short-term bed erosion are conducted to validate the established model and demonstrate its ability to simulate waves, flow fields, and bed changes during storm surge. Specifically, we used the model to simulate the morphological evolution of the Santa Rosa barrier island caused by Hurricane Ivan's storm surge, and the results indicate that the model accurately predicts the real-case erosion process caused by storm surge and overwash during the hurricane. The simulated results clearly explain overwash development, including washover fans, foredune erosion, and back-barrier deposition. It demonstrates that the front dune significantly eroded with the Santa Rosa barrier island coastline retreating by a maximum of about 80 m during the storm surge. More than three breaches with a width of up to 135 m were formed on the sandy barrier due to wave overwash, while the topography at the breach changed significantly. • A new flow-wave-sediment-morphodynamic coupled model is developed to predict morphodynamic changes caused by overwash during storm surges. • A series of numerical experiments conducted using the new model demonstrates its ability and it successfully predicts the overwash erosion of the Santa Rosa barrier island during Hurricane Ivan's storm surge. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Although many studies have been performed in the northern Gulf of Mexico, there have been a paucity of high-resolution sediment data collected from seabed. New multicores were collected repeatedly at 4 fixed stations in the inner Louisiana shelf on March 12, 2021, July 7, 2021, November 20, 2021, and March 5, 2022, respectively, to study detailed spatial and temporal variations of surficial sediment. Being a very high sediment accumulation zone, Raccoon Island dredge pit and its nearby shelf were selected as our study area and additional six vibracores were collected inside and outside the pit for comparison. This study area is about 140 km west of the modern Mississippi Delta and 70 km southeast of the Atchafalaya Delta. A total of 624 samples from both vibracores and multicores were analyzed for this study. Spatially, our results show that sediment near Ship Shoal was the coarsest and sediment deposited in the pit was the finest. The organic matter was highest inside the pit and lowest near Ship Shoal. The carbonate content was the lowest near Ship Shoal. Temporally, surficial sediments were generally coarser in July and November of 2021 and finer in March of 2021 and March of 2022. Although the Mississippi and Atchafalaya Rivers supply a large amount of sediment during spring season, it takes time for the river-derived sediment to be delivered into the study area. Hurricanes Delta, Zeta and Ida passed this area and greatly impacted sediment transport in the years 2021 and 2022. The comparatively coarser sediment in July and November of 2021 were likely related to the resuspension of some coarse sediment by these hurricane events. Besides the river supply, Ship Shoal and barrier islands are nearby localized sandy sources and inner Louisiana shelf is a widespread mud source. This spatial heterogeneity of surficial sediment interplays with the timing of Mississippi and Atchafalaya River flood season and hurricanes and together dictates the sediment texture. This research on a filled-up dredge pit can benefit future evaluation of the safety of existing oil infrastructure and the feasibility of building new pipelines and platforms after dredging activities. Our results also shed light on the study of river- and hurricane-impacted sediment transport in muddy and mixed-texture passive continental margins around the world. • Pit sediment hasn't reached an equilibrium with ambient environment yet. • Surficial sediments were coarser in July and November and finer in March. • Sediment grain size spatial variations were categorized into four groups. • This research will benefit future coastal restoration and sediment management. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Storm surge is a critical component in the evolution of barrier island systems, eroding the shoreface and depositing sediment landward as overwash deposits; this "rollover" process enables barrier islands to migrate landward during periods of rising sea level. However, cyclonic storms may also generate seaward-directed flow and sediment transport, which is not typically accounted for in barrier island modeling. A strong outflow occurred at Port Aransas, Texas during Hurricane Harvey in 2017, as evidenced from field observations, satellite photos, and tide data; modeling indicates that outflow was forced by offshore winds to the left of landfall. To investigate the impact of this event on the barrier system, we collected post-storm multibeam bathymetry data and sediment samples within Aransas Pass and Lydia Ann Channel, important conduits linking the bays to the Gulf of Mexico, and where such data were previously collected in 2009 and 2012. The 2009–2012 comparison provides a baseline against which to ascertain the storm impact contained in the 2012–2017 comparison. Both land- and marine-based evidence indicate that significant erosion accompanied the outflow event, focused at the edges of the Corpus Christi ship channel and Lydia Ann Channel. Large quantities of sand, up to 6.5 m thick, also accumulate in deeps of Aransas Pass and Lydia Ann Channel, presumably as the outflow event waned in strength. We infer that the outflow event transported a large amount of barrier system sands offshore, but do not have sufficient constraints at this time to quantify it. • Hurricane Harvey induced a seaward-directed surge on its left side. • We document loss of inshore sediment, and no overwash deposits in the study region. • Bathymetric data document a major sediment transport event. • Combined evidence suggests net loss of barrier sand to offshore around Port Aransas. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract Storm-induced sediment transport across a barrier island can lead to vertical accretion and onshore migration of the barrier island. Many barrier islands either have high dunes that prevent inundation, or are so low-lying that they are inundated several times a year. The Wadden Islands in the Netherlands, Germany and Denmark typically have alongshore-varying topography, where high dunes alternate with low-lying washover openings. The effects of the geometry of the washover openings on hydrodynamics and sediment transport are still unknown and are the main focus of this research. First, we present data on width and for some cases also vertical elevation of bed level for all washover openings along the Wadden Islands. The mean width is 200 m but the actual width ranges from 35 to 1100 m, and the elevation is between 1.5 and 2.1 m above MSL. Further, we present results of an XBeach model study to investigate how the washover opening geometry affects sediment transport during storm-induced inundation. We identify two important effects of washover width: firstly, for narrow openings flow contraction is important, causing relatively larger sediment exchange rates per unit width; secondly, in a wider opening sediment is transported over a larger width, resulting in larger sediment mass exchange rates. Furthermore, the elevation of the washover opening is of high importance: washover openings that are 30 cm higher than the reference case significantly decrease currents and sediment transport across the island. Divergence of sediment transport occurs in the washover opening, which leads to erosional patterns. Landward from the opening, sediment transport converges which leads to depositional patterns. The pressure gradient between North Sea and Wadden Sea across the Wadden Islands is an important forcing parameter: higher water levels in the back-barrier reduce onshore-directed currents and sediment transport. Highlights • Sediment transport during storms depends highly on washover opening width and height. • Beach width and slope are less important for potential washover deposits. • During inundation, currents are the drivers for sediment transport across the islands. • The water level dynamics during storms in the North Sea and Wadden Sea are crucial. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Recent major storms have piqued interest in understanding the responses of estuarine hydrodynamics and sediment transport to these events. To that end, flow velocity, wave characteristics, and suspended-sediment concentration (SSC) were measured for 11 months at eight locations in Chincoteague Bay, MD/VA, USA, a shallow back-barrier estuary. Daily breezes and episodic storms generated sediment-resuspending waves and modified the flow velocity at all sites, which occupied channel, shoal, and sheltered-bay environments with different bed-sediment characteristics. Despite comparable SSC during calm periods, SSC at the channel locations was considerably greater than at the shoal sites during windy periods because of relatively more erodible bed sediment in the channels. Sediment fluxes were strongly wind modulated: within the bay's main channel, depth-integrated unit-width sediment flux increased nonlinearly with increasing wind speed. When averaged over all sites, about 35% of the flux occurred during windy periods (wind speed greater than 6 m s −1 ), which represented just 15% of the deployment time. At channel sites, the net water and sediment fluxes were opposite to the direction of the wind forcing, while at shoal sites, the fluxes generally were aligned with the wind, implying complex channel–shoal dynamics. Yearly sediment fluxes exceed previous estimates of sediment delivery to the entirety of Chincoteague Bay. These observations illustrate the dynamic sedimentary processes occurring within microtidal back-barrier lagoons and highlight the importance of storm events in the hydrodynamics and overall sediment budgets of these systems. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract The large-scale littoral sediment drift along barrier island coasts involves alongshore sand transport at the islands’ surf zone and across tidal inlets. Mechanisms of sediment bypassing at non-migrating, mixed-energy tidal inlets are discussed based on process-based numerical modeling of sediment dynamics at an exemplary barrier island system in the southern North Sea. Residual transport pathways of distinct sediment grain-size fractions and morphological changes reveal the complexity of processes at tidal inlets driven by the non-linear interaction of competing tidal and wave forces. Sediment bypassing from the updrift to the downdrift shoreline of a tidal inlet is evaluated and the ratio of bypassed to recirculated sand volumes is estimated. Common inlet bypassing schemes are discussed and verified. It is shown that the different bypassing mechanisms can happen simultaneously and are related to the transport behavior of particular sediment grain-size fractions: Very fine to fine sand bypasses the inlet along the entire ebb-tidal delta periphery by wave-induced transport processes. Fine to medium sand is transported by the ebb-directed tidal currents in the inlet throat to the ebb-tidal delta where wave-driven transport processes and bar welding bypasses the sediments to the downdrift shore. For fine to medium and medium sands, a sediment recirculation cell at the downdrift ebb-tidal delta and reversal to the main inlet throat is identified. Highlights • Contradictory schemes of sediment bypassing at tidal inlets are explained by modelled residual transport patterns. • Net pathways of tidal inlet sediment bypassing are strongly dependent on sediment grain-size. • Sediment recirculated at the tidal inlet surmounts the bypassed sand volume with increasing grain-size. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Variations in bed friction due to land cover type have the potential to influence morphologic change during storm events; the importance of these variations can be studied through numerical simulation and experimentation at locations with sufficient observational data to initialize realistic scenarios, evaluate model accuracy and guide interpretations. Two-dimensional in the horizontal plane (2DH) morphodynamic (XBeach) simulations were conducted to assess morphodynamic sensitivity to spatially varying bed friction at Dauphin Island, AL using hurricanes Ivan (2004) and Katrina (2005) as experimental test cases. For each storm, three bed friction scenarios were simulated: (1) a constant Chezy coefficient across land and water, (2) a constant Chezy coefficient across land and depth-dependent Chezy coefficients across water, and (3) spatially varying Chezy coefficients across land based on land use/land cover (LULC) data and depth-dependent Chezy coefficients across water. Modeled post-storm bed elevations were compared qualitatively and quantitatively with post-storm lidar data. Results showed that implementing spatially varying bed friction influenced the ability of XBeach to accurately simulate morphologic change during both storms. Accounting for frictional effects due to large-scale variations in vegetation and development reduced cross-barrier sediment transport and captured overwash and breaching more accurately. Model output from the spatially varying friction scenarios was used to examine the need for an existing sediment transport limiter, the influence of pre-storm topography and the effects of water level gradients on storm-driven morphodynamics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal dunes provide many ecosystem services including protection of infrastructure from wave overtopping and habitat for native species. Foredunes grow at different rates and assume different forms (i.e., short and wide to tall and narrow) depending on a range of factors including pre-existing beach and dune morphology, wind, wave, and water levels, sediment grain size, and vegetation characteristics, yet the relative importance of these factors on foredune growth is understudied. Here, we quantify foredune evolution (2016–2019) and explore the relative influence of a suite of metocean, sedimentary, and ecological factors for dune growth on three barrier islands in the U.S. North Carolina Outer Banks (Cape Lookout National Seashore). We incorporate observed and hindcast wind, wave, and water level data into the process-based, coupled beach-dune evolution model, Windsurf, to explore the relative contribution of factors likely to influence foredune growth at the annual timescale (2016–2017). Our cross-shore topographic profile observations show varied interannual foredune change rates and characteristics, including horizontal retreat and progradation at the dune toe and vertical erosion and accretion at the dune crest. Model results indicate that, of the factors explored, pre-existing morphology had the greatest influence on the type of foredune growth that occurred (i.e., incipient dune development, widening of the dune, and/or vertical accretion), which dramatically altered the final shape of the dune. Variations in wind and wave climates were associated with the relative contribution of marine- and aeolian-driven bed elevation changes and were particularly influential during storms. In addition, increases in the minimum elevation of vegetation on the dune profile (analogous to the cross-shore distance between the shoreline and established vegetation line, i.e., the vegetation limit, as coined by Duran and Moore, 2013) increased dune crest height and dune volume. Moreover, variations in the minimum vegetation elevation resulted in a larger range of dune crest elevations and dune volumes than differences in the median sand grain size. We suggest that insights into the relative influence of metocean, sedimentary, and ecological factors to dune growth can assist in the development of practical coastal management strategies. • Pre-existing beach-dune morphology had the largest influence on dune growth type. • Exposure to the dominant wave direction led to increased dune volume. • Higher minimum vegetation elevation and finer sand resulted in taller dunes. • Minimum vegetation elevation influenced dune growth more than sand grain size. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Follet's Island (FI) is a sediment-starved barrier island located on the Upper Texas Coast; a stretch of coastline along the Gulf of Mexico that experiences on average four hurricanes and four tropical storms per decade. During Hurricane Ike, water levels and wave heights at FI exceeded the 100-year and 40-year return values, respectively, leading to significant overtopping and morphology changes of this low-lying barrier island. The physical processes governing the real-time morphodynamic response of the beach and dune system during 96 h of hurricane impact were modeled using XBeach (2D) and CSHORE (1D). Hydrodynamic boundary conditions were obtained from ADCIRC/SWAN model runs validated with measured buoy and wave gauge data while LiDAR surveys provided pre- and post-storm measured topography. XBeach displayed a decent model skill of 0.34 and provided numerical outputs of the entire 2D domain such as topography, suspended sediment load and bed load which was very useful in visualizing erosion and deposition patterns. CSHORE also displayed a decent model skill of 0.33 and was able to accurately predict the post-storm beach slope and shoreline, but was less effective at simulating the foredune morphology. Modeling results show that the complete morphodynamic response of FI to Hurricane Ike was governed by a sequence of impact regimes, including swash, collision, overwash, inundation, and storm surge ebb. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

We present detrital-zircon U–Pb geochronology from the Mississippi, Mobile, and Apalachicola rivers, as well as five beach and barrier island deposits to determine sediment sources, alongshore transport, and sediment mixing in the northeastern Gulf of Mexico. The Mississippi River has a distinct age spectrum defined by prominent Cenozoic and Mesozoic populations coupled with minor Appalachian (490-270 Ma), Grenville (1200-900 Ma), Granite-Rhyolite (1500-1300 Ma), and Yavapai-Mazatzal (1800-1600 Ma) populations. The Mobile and Apalachicola rivers exhibit age spectra containing few to no Cenozoic grains, are proportionately dominated by Appalachian and Grenville populations, and have minor populations consisting of Iaptian Rifting/Gondwanan (850-550 Ma), Granite-Rhyolite, and Yavapai-Mazatzal ages. Comparison of U–Pb age spectra and inverse mixing models shows that beach and barrier island deposits are primarily derived of material from the Apalachicola River, with Mobile River contribution being dependent on geographic position west of Mobile Bay. Minor Mississippi River contribution in coastal deposits results from shelf bypass to deep marine sinks and when present is likely associated with recycling of Coastal Plain strata. Metamorphic zircon grain abundance (14–36%) in coastal deposits and chemical-age relationships to southern Appalachian eastern Blue Ridge and Inner Piedmont provinces corroborate Apalachicola and or Mobile river system provenance. Results from this study suggest that anthropogenic influences and hurricanes have little to no effect on the detrital-zircon age spectra at a regional scale, and that the northeastern Gulf of Mexico can be used as an analog for older Cenozoic and Mesozoic source to sink investigations in the eastern Gulf Coastal Plain. • Detrital zircon geochronology can be used to track sediment transport in coastal deposits in the NE Gulf of Mexico. • Coastal deposits along the northeastern Gulf of Mexico are sourced from the Apalachicola and Mobile river systems. • Spatial relationships of U–Pb age spectra provides a modern analog for ancient deposits in the eastern Gulf Coastal Plain. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A coupled Flow-Wave-Sediment model was used to study hydrodynamics, sedimentation, and bottom boundary layer (BBL) dynamics over the Sandy Point Dredge Pit (SPDP; a potential sand mining site in the Louisiana shelf, northern Gulf of Mexico) during fair weather summer conditions (July and August 2015). The Delft3D modeling system on a curvilinear computational grid with spatial resolution between 10 m and 2.8 km was used. The flow, wave, and sediment transport models were evaluated using water level, current speed, wave parameters, and sediment concentration. During this period, the wind over the Louisiana shelf is characterized as low energy with the prevailing direction from southeast to the southwest, which corresponds to small wave heights (H s < 1.2 m) and small wave periods (T m < 4 s). The relatively shorter waves resuspended sediments only in very shallow areas along the Mississippi Birdfoot Delta. Simulations with and without the SPDP showed that the presence of the pit could decrease the speed of surface currents by as much as 19%, while its effect on wave characteristics was minor. The northward current produced by the prevailing winds transported the discharged sediments from the Mississippi River contributed 60% of the sedimentation over the SPDP. Sediment re-suspension inside the BBL of the SPDP occurred during the days that more energetic waves propagated over the shelf. As a result, sediments from the Mississippi River significantly increased the sediment concentration near the bottom of and throughout the water column above the SPDP. • The Sandy Point Dredge Pit could decrease the speed of surface currents, but the effect on wave characteristics was minor. • The Mississippi River increased the sediment concentration near the bottom of and throughout the water column above the Pit. • The northward current transported the sediments from the Mississippi River contributed 60% of the sedimentation over the Pit. • The average sedimentation rate inside the Sandy Point Dredge Pit was ∼2.5 mm/day. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Predicting coastal erosion requires an accurate morphodynamic model. XBeach has been widely adopted to simulate storm-induced coastal erosion. Because of the large number of model input parameters and their uncertainties, sensitivity analysis is a crucial step toward reliable results. This requires running a large number of computationally expensive simulations. Here, we adopt a computationally cost-effective approach based on the Non-Intrusive Polynomial Chaos Expansion method to quantify the sensitivity of XBeach to its input parameters. The method is applied to the coastal erosion event caused by Hurricane Sandy along the barrier islands of New Jersey in the United States. The results show a spatial variation of the model sensitivity with increasing boundary conditions. Parameters' interaction is found to decrease as the magnitude of boundary conditions increases, causing a reduction in the nonlinearity of the model behavior, and consequently leading to a reduction in the uncertainty of the model output. • Sensitivity of XBeach model to its input parameters is investigated. • Sensitivity is quantified using Non-Intrusive Polynomial Chaos Expansions method. • Effect of interactions among input parameters on model behavior is quantified. • Effects of boundary conditions and site characteristics on sensitivity are quantified. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal barriers are defined as shore-parallel, aggraded-prograded supratidal beach ridge sets and individual single ridge-landforms, composed of sand and/or gravel. Island, spit, and mainland barriers represent the three major topographic subdivisions. In terms of bathymetric and hydrographic characteristics, bottom sediment types and associated habitats, barriers separate the marine offshore from inshore facies. This definition is not uniformly accepted and applied in the literature. Barriers impose reduced salinities inshore, diminish storm impact and moderate inland inundation, protect critical habitats and may mark ancient longshore transport directions, shore and sea-level positions. A wide range of dimensions, topography, and other factors characterize mainland strandplains. Shoal aggradation appears to be the prime island-forming mechanism, followed by accretion around semi-consolidated, elevated cores. Smaller islands may also form by barrier spit fragmentation. Detachment of dune ridges from the mainland shore is an often cited but at best unlikely mode of island genesis. Review of the literature and remote-sensed images created new insights, utilized barrier definitions and genetic theories, as applied in the Mississippi Delta Complex. A three-stage concept, involving dune ridge or barrier spit-detachment by marine encroachment and landward shift of fragmented transgressive islands forms the basis of a recent invited Marine Geology research article. That model assumes spit-growth from delta headlands, followed by splintering into landward-migrating islands. Submerged, they become permanent shoals. For several reasons, this "island-cycle" hypothesis is questionable and a reassessment of the geomorphic and stratigraphic context of this delta coast is required. Contradicting the geomorphic setting of assumed Stage 1, key component of the cycle-model, evidence is lacking for subrecent delta lobes and erosional headland in spawning barrier islands. In addition, the delta headland-flanking islands reveal only progradational (regressive) development and in situ disintegration,. Transgressive landward migrations is known only from the Chandeleur chain's prehistory. Sand from decaying Terrebonne-Lafourche 6 Subdelta headland was the dominant source for the Caminada Strandplain and for the shoal /or island predecessor of Grand Isle. Wave refraction around an inferred Lafourche delta lobe (dated provisionally between ∼2900 - ∼ 2300 yrs. BP) and its decayed erosional headland remnant resulted in diametric reversal of littoral sand transport. An earlier proferred ∼750–300 yrs. BP Caminada Strandplain age range is now replaced by a loosely defined ∼2200- to- ∼800 yrs. BP value, based on ages of Grand Isle and reworked delta hinterland sediments incorporated into the Strandplain. • barrier and barrier categories. • littoral sediment transport reversal. • Mississippi Delta Complex. • strandplain and delta headland interaction. • transgressive island-cycle hypothesis. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Shorelines bordering ebb deltas are often subject to deformation by the approach and attachment of ebb-tidal shoals. Although this is a common behaviour, little attention has been paid to the link between shoal migration and the multi-annual development of the adjacent beach-dune system. This study aims to understand beach-dune systems' behaviour during the approach phase of an ebb-tidal shoal attachment event. Topographic and bathymetric data of the barrier island of Texel (NL) was used to calculate shoreline position, beach and dune volume, dunefoot position, and shoal displacement rates. Two classical beach-dune interaction models were used to understand the observed behaviour: the surfzone-beach-dune model and the sediment budget model. The analysis revealed how a larger bank on the land-facing side of the ebb delta split into two smaller shoals with different morphological behaviours. One of the shoals (S1) moved consistently landwards, recently attaching the shore, whereas the second shoal (S2) is still evolving and presents a milder landward movement than S1. In parallel to the landward movement of S1, the adjacent coastline was subject to erosion, partially counterbalanced by nourishments. However, despite the erosion, dunes are growing in volume, suggesting a net positive transfer of sand from the beach to the dunes. In the surfzone-beach-dune model, regular nourishments positively affect beach state by maintaining sufficient beach size for aeolian sediment transport and reducing shoreline erosion. In the budget model, dune volume growth may occur despite a slightly negative beach budget. Framing Texel in the budget model implies that the beach budget before the start of the approach phase is crucial in defining the behaviour of the dune system during this phase. If the shoal approach significantly reduces the beach budget, the system may cross the budget threshold that dune building is possible. Thus, the dune system may evolve to an erosional state, including dune ridge dissection and blowout development. Hence, nourishments have been essential in keeping the current morphological state during the attachment of the shoal, as they restrict the system from crossing the negative morphological threshold. Thus, without the nourishments, beach erosion driven by the shoal might have led to morphological changes in the dune system that could lead to years of a weakened level of protection until foredune recovery after attachment. • Shoal-induced changes in beach budget influence dune development. • Dune morphology may change depending on the beach state prior to attachment. • Nourishments can retain beach budget at a sufficient level to maintain dune morphology. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Erosion rates along Alaska's Beaufort Sea coast, among the highest in the world, are negatively impacting communities, industrial and military infrastructure, and wildlife habitat. Decreasing maximal winter ice extent and increasing summer open water duration and extent in the Beaufort Sea may be making the coast more vulnerable to destructive storm waves than during recent, colder, icier decades. Previous studies of Beaufort Sea coastal change have been limited to subaerial analyses of the shoreline. Here we describe nearshore seafloor change by comparing post-World War II (WWII) (1945-53) bathymetry data to recently acquired (1985–2018) bathymetry data and relate the observed seafloor change to adjacent shoreline change near Utqiagvik, within Stefansson Sound, and immediately west of Barter Island and Kaktovik. Within the Utqiagvik region, seabed erosion was generally highest (>1.0 m of loss) offshore of Point Barrow and along the eastern end of the Tapkaluk Islands, while there were lesser amounts of deposition (<0.5 m of gain) within the protected waters of Elson Lagoon. Sedimentation was generally highest offshore of Point Barrow, in a region of converging currents, and on the landward side of the barrier islands and spits fronting Elson Lagoon, which is likely related to a regional trend of westerly sediment transport and landward migration of the barrier islands. Within Stefansson Sound, perhaps the most notable changes from post-WWII bathymetry data compared to recent data are a switch from mixed, low erosion and deposition in 1997 to low deposition (<0.5 m) in 2018 east of the Boulder Patch, a switch from low erosion in 1997 to neutral depth change in 2018 in the channel between the north and south Boulder Patch areas, and higher deposition from 1997 to 2018 landward of the rapidly retreating barrier islands along the Sound's northern border. At Barter Island, high erosion near north-facing shorelines and high deposition near west-facing shorelines generally matched shoreline changes. One of our goals is to identify possible processes responsible for the depth changes we quantified. Using simple metrics that relate sediment characteristics with modeled waves and non-wave induced currents, we show that sediment resuspension and transport by both wave and non-wave driven currents likely contribute to the overall patterns of change within the ∼13 m isobath along the open coast, and that the influence of wave action affecting sediment transport is expanding seaward. • Patterns of decadal-scale changes in shoreline positions and bathymetry indicate possible linkages within the nearshore. • Depth changes are additionally driven by sediment resuspension and transport by both wave and non-wave driven currents. • Wave action affecting sediment transport expanded seaward and deepened by as much as 15 cm/yr between 1979 and 2019. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: The Wadden Sea and its associated barrier island system exhibit highly dynamic behaviour. Of major concern is the movement of water and air and the transport, erosion and deposition of sand and mud. These processes result in an ever-changing morphology (topography/bathymetry) of the islands, tidal channels, inter-tidal shoals and tidal flats. This dynamic development of the shape and nature of the Wadden area forms together with the biotic systems, the present Wadden system. The morphodynamic development of the Wadden Sea is influenced by changing environmental conditions e.g. sea-level rise as well as by human interferences. For the management and protection of the Wadden system knowledge on the morphodynamic development is essential. However, our present knowledge is not sufficient to predict the effects of human interferences under different climate change scenarios in sufficient detail and accuracy. This paper identifies the existing knowledge gaps, based on a review of the state of the art on morphodynamics of the Wadden Sea that is confronted with major requirements from a coastal zone management point of view. The identified knowledge gaps have to inspire and stimulate research in the fields of the large-scale sediment budgets, morphodynamic changes at smaller scales, processes and mechanisms of sediment transport, erosion and deposition and modelling tools. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: During the summer of 2005, Hurricane Dennis overwashed the eastern portion of St. George Island, part of the northwest barrier island chain located along the Florida Panhandle. In this paper, LiDAR-based morphological changes of the barrier island are analyzed, along with the short-term post-storm recovery of secondary dunes. Results show that overwash from the storm surge removed nearly the entire foredune complex, and the initial breaching probably occurred where the complex was either low or discontinuous; in these locations, beach widening was less. In contrast, approximately 10m of beach widening occurred where foredunes were higher and continuous, implying that more sediment was available for seaward transport during storm conditions. The secondary dunes recovered at an average linear rate of 3–4cm per month in the presence of vegetation, although monthly averages varied from −1.5 to 1.4m3/m and total volume changes varied from −17.9 to 16.4m3/m for the duration of the study. Furthermore, vegetation deterred dune migration, thus favoring dune growth and reducing erosion due to wind. In contrast, the absence of vegetation inhibited dune growth. Insignificant changes in elevation occurred in areas of storm debris or lag deposit. Finally, distributions of topographic gradients and curvature calculated numerically from pre- and post-storm LiDAR data are introduced as a potential tool in determining the relative post-storm recovery of the dune field. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

This work describes the application of hydrodynamic (ELCIRC) and transport (VELA and VELApart) models to the Ria Formosa lagoon (Portugal) to study the impact of the relocation of the Ancão Inlet. Located in the south of Portugal, this lagoon is a mesotidal barrier island system that communicates with the sea through 6 inlets. The Old Ancão Inlet was artificially closed and the New Ancão Inlet was relocated into a westward position. This work investigates the hydrodynamic patterns and the potential pathways of tracers in Ria Formosa in two distinct configurations: before and after the Ancão Inlet relocation. The hydrodynamic model was successfully calibrated and validated against elevation, velocity and inlet discharges data, accurately reproducing the tidal propagation. The inlet relocation increases the magnitude of tidal currents, residual velocities and the tidal prism across the bar, suggesting a better stability. The tracers transport simulations suggest enhanced water exchanges through the Ancão Inlet and smaller residence times in the western part of Ria Formosa with the present configuration. Overall, it is concluded that the Ancão Inlet relocation had a positive contribution towards increasing the water renewal of the western part of the lagoon, thus decreasing its vulnerability to pollution. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Anomalous morphological features within large estuaries may be: (1) recorders of external forces that periodically overwhelm the normal morphodynamic responses to estuarine energy fluxes, and (2) possible predictors of cycles of future coastal change. At the entrance to Willapa Bay, Washington, chronic beach erosion and frequent coastal flooding are related to the historical northward channel migration that destroyed the protective sand spits of Cape Shoalwater. Northward channel migration since the late 1800s conforms to the long-term net sediment transport direction. What requires explanation is periodic southward relocation of the trunk channel by as much as 5 km, and attendant construction of moderately large sand spits on the north side of the bay such as Kindred Island, Tokeland Peninsula, and Cape Shoalwater. Both autocyclic and allocyclic processes may have been responsible for trunk channel realignment and associated spit deposition. Channel recycling may occur when the main channel becomes overextended to the north and the tidal flow is inefficient because of its decreased gradient and increased susceptibility to shoaling by the growth and migration of tidal sand ridges. Under those conditions trunk channel relocation would be facilitated by increased wave heights and water levels of El Niño winter storms. However, co-seismic subsidence is the most likely mechanism for abruptly increasing sand supply and longshore transport that would favor discrete periods of channel relocation and spit deposition. Unless external forcing changes sand supply and predominant sediment transport directions in the future, the relative rise in sea level, frequent winter storms, and local deficit in the sand budget assure that beach erosion will continue at the mouth of this large estuary. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: The Holocene history of the SE Louisiana–Mississippi coast and a recently revised regional sea-level curve fail to support the concept of an abrupt Gulf-wide decline from +2.0 m to −1.5 m and regression, with barrier aggradation between 4.1 and 3.9 14C ka BP, triggered by massive onshore sediment transport. A subsequent rapid rise followed by minor oscillations are equally unsubstantiated. Suggestions for an overwhelming role of onshore transport during the assumed regression or otherwise may not be justified. A small hardcrust lens in the continuous subaqueous barrier sequence does not prove major fall in sea-level, regional regression and subaerial exposure. Elevation and lithofacies of Florida shore scarps and radiocarbon-dated beach ridges fail to support sea-level fluctuations. The presented paleogeographic and sea-level models indicate continuous shoal and associated island formation between ca. 5.2 and 4.0 14C ka BP, uninterrupted by sea-level decline. Rapid progradation of a Mississippi River–St. Bernard delta lobe terminated barrier development. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Along much of the world's coastline, coastal barriers serve as the first line of defense against oceanic and meteorological forces. Extreme storms cause large morphological changes on coastal barriers through high sediment transport rates, which may degrade their defensive capabilities. The understanding of morphological impacts is therefore important for coastal resiliency, but is often challenged by site-specific characteristics, such as land cover and sediment availability, and their poorly understood impacts on the governing physical processes. The Caminada Headlands, Louisiana, USA presents unique considerations for morphodynamic modeling with regard to its low-lying topography, variable land cover, nearshore muddy substrate and sand deficiency. This study investigates the effects of land cover and limited sediment supply on low-lying barrier island morphology under storm conditions by using physics-based numerical models. A high-resolution, local-scale sediment transport/morphodynamic model (XBeach) of the Caminada Headlands is verified for Hurricane Gustav's (2008) impact using pre- and post-storm LIDAR surveys. When accurate input data are used to create physics-based numerical models these tools are robust in hindcasting storm impacts and provide a wealth of information as to the governing processes, which is otherwise difficult to obtain observationally. The simulation results show that a short-duration overwash regime dominates the morphological change in this low-lying barrier and is influenced by backbarrier wetland deterioration. The morphological response to overwash is modulated by backbarrier land cover and topography, as reduced accommodation space limits landward transport during the subsequent inundation regime. An intact backbarrier marsh reduces landward washover sediment transport distances and promotes deposition at supratidal elevations. In light of these findings, simultaneous restoration/creation of backbarrier wetlands in conjunction with subaerial beach renourishment may be an effective form of increasing the resiliency of low-lying barriers subject to frequent overwashing. • A basin-scale hydrodynamic-wave and local-scale sediment transport model constructed for barrier washover simulations. • A hindcast of Hurricane Gustav's (2008) hydrodynamics and morphological impact to Louisiana verified with multiple data. • A relationship between storm-driven washover sediment transport and backbarrier wetland land cover/topography investigated. • Limited nearshore sand sediment supply influences the accuracy of storm-driven washover sediment transport modeling. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Human activities, such as dam construction and reclamation, can affect sedimentation rates as well as sediment topography and transport in estuaries such as the Nakdong River Estuary. To investigate the sedimentation history, two sediment cores (1–2 m long) were sampled in tidal flats of the estuary. In addition, surface sediments were collected to study present sedimentation environments that appear to be three environments locally: 1) fine-grained sediment deposition; 2) sediments under stronger hydraulic energy; and 3) sandy sediments with good sorting. At the fine sediment deposition, environmental sensitive fraction of elements (Cu, Pb, As, and Co) show an increased sedimentation flux after the dam construction. On the other hand, organic matter-normalized Pb-210 concentrations in sediment core reveal that marine-originated organic matter is predominant in the upper ~45 cm of sediment layers, indicating a significant change in sedimentation history related to massive sedimentation within the Nakdong River Estuary. • Sediment fluxes for metal contaminants increase after the dam construction. • OM-normalized 210Pb XS profile reflects change in sedimentation within estuary. • Large-scale topographical changes influence the spatio-temporal sedimentation rate. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

[Display omitted] • Intra-storm variations in sediment sources remain under studied in many settings. • Weathering indices and geochemistry used to trace intra-storm sediment sources. • Tributary sub-catchment spatial and individual source types were explored. • Quaternary geology surface soils and channel banks were key sources. There is an increasing need for reliable information on the origin of fine-grained sediment transported by river systems, but critically, at temporal scales that reflect the timing and pattern of sediment mobilization and delivery in response to effective precipitation events. Temporal variability is likely to be more pronounced in steep mountainous catchments. Accordingly, the main objective of this study was to investigate the temporal variability of sediment sources during and between flood events, in a mountainous catchment in Iran, using a geochemical fingerprinting approach and Bayesian un-mixing model. Potential sediment sources were classified as either tributary sub-basin spatial end members or individual source types represented by surface soils and channel banks. A total of 34 geochemical elements, elemental ratios and weathering indices were measured as potential tracers on a total of 155 samples, including 40 target samples collected across the hydrographs of four flood events at the overall catchment outlet. Virtual mixture tests, used to compare the computed source estimates with known source mixtures, revealed better fits in the case of spatial, rather than source type apportionment. The Bayesian un-mixing model results revealed pronounced intra-storm variations in the relative contributions from both the spatial sources and source types, but with Quaternary surface soils and channel banks being dominant at different stages of the hydrographs. For all the suspended sediment samples collected throughout the three small to medium size events, the Babazid, middle upstream sub-catchment, was the major (84%–99%) sediment source while for the largest sampled event, suspended sediment samples predominantly (>98%) originated from the Kalkoshan, the most southern sub-catchment. By investigating both spatial sources and source types, temporal variations in the dominant sources were revealed. Quaternary geology and channel banks were identified as the main sediment sources. By combining instantaneous suspended sediment loads through the sampled flood events (across all floods) and using the corresponding source proportions derived from the MixSIR un-mixing model, channel banks and channel bank and surface soils generated 2911 kg and 34,171 kg of suspended sediment, respectively. Whilst the use of spatial source end members is practical in medium-size drainage basins, integration with estimates of sediment source type contributions is more informative to managers in selecting relevant sediment mitigation methods. The intra-storm results underscore the need to manage sediment loss from both surface soils and channel banks. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Barrier islands throughout the world are increasingly stressed due to accelerating sea-level rise (SLR), increasing storminess, and diminishing sediment supplies. This condition is particularly evident along the Louisiana coast because it has one of the highest rates of relative SLR in the world and very limited sand sources. One of the keys in predicting how barrier islands will change in the future is to understand how they have evolved since their formation. Historical shoreline changes are usually insufficient, because those records only provide a glimpse of a barrier's history. Moreover, the data needed to decipher barrier evolution at an intermediate scale (~101–103 years) is lacking for many coastal Louisiana barrier systems. One method for tracking barrier island development through time makes use of optically stimulated luminescence (OSL) dating of beach ridge sediments. This study combines OSL and the analysis of aerial imagery and previous core logs to document the timing of beach ridge formation, rates of progradation, and geologic framework of the only developed barrier island in Louisiana. Grand Isle is composed of prograding beach ridges organized in distinct, unconformable sets. Ridges increase in spacing from west to east, due to increased rates of shoreline progradation caused by decreased accommodation space. Proto-Grand Isle began forming approximately 750 years ago, prograded northeastward until approximately 620 years ago when sediment supply slowed and/or major storms impacted the island. During that time, much the seaward portion of the existing ridges were eroded. Following truncation of the first set of beach ridges (Group 1), the island once again began to prograde in a slightly more eastward direction (Group 2 ridge sets). OSL dates indicate the island's central ridges (Group 2, ridge sets 7–9) formed between 370 ± 30 and 170 ± 10 years ago at an average rate of one ridge every 14.8 years, or progradation rate of 14.9 m/yr. The island's sediment source comes from an eroding beach ridge plain of the Caminada headland to the west. The volume of Grand Isle's barrier lithosome is 9.26 × 107 m3, which computes to an average northeasterly longshore transport rate of 128,625 m3/yr. This is a high longshore transport rate for the relatively low wave energy of this coast (H s = 0.6 m) but is explained by hurricane impacts that substantially increase average sand transport conditions. The substantial thickness of the Grand Isle barrier lithosome (~10 m) and its steady supply of sediment contribute to the island's stability in contrast to other barrier systems along the Louisiana coast. • Grand Isle began forming about 750 yr by accretion of beach ridges. • A likely cause for the westward decreased ridge density is reduced accommodation space. • The rate of headland erosion created an ample sand source for island construction. • Calculated transport rates of sediment westward exceed minimum required for progradation. • Grand Isle prograded and accreted at faster rates than a global sample of beach ridge plains. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Trends in research on morphologic changes on beaches and foredunes on sandy shores are identified from the 1960s to the present. Research during this period evolved from early descriptive explanation and classification of profile change, to instrumented field investigations, to modelling of landform change at larger scales. Research efforts have become increasingly more collaborative, with increasing use of field instrumentation, data acquisition systems and remote sensing. Rich datasets are resulting in more comprehensive computational models. Human-altered systems are of increasing interest, but knowledge of these systems lags far behind knowledge of natural systems. Research is becoming more relevant to societal needs as the vulnerability of coastal populations increases. The need for investigation of understudied or unexplored environments, including human altered ones, is ongoing. Many basic research issues remain, but future studies would profit from the development of new models rather than validating or reconfiguring old models. Collaboration between geomorphologists and engineers may open up research opportunities, particularly in modifying beaches and dunes built for shore protection to provide natural values in restricted space. Application of models to enhance knowledge of effects of sea level rise and coastal storms would be useful to managers developing resiliency plans. • Research trends in coastal geomorphology since the 1960s are identified. • The focus is on sandy beaches and foredunes on undeveloped and developed shores. • Geomorphology is becoming more linked to social and economic processes. • Resilience issues point to the need for more comprehensive models. • Future needs and opportunities for basic and applied research are identified. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study provides laboratory observations of the nearshore hydrodynamics and detailed topographic surveys associated with the morphological response of a beach-dune system to oblique waves during a storm event. A physical model consisting of a 20 m long sandy steep beach constructed in a wave basin, and a wave paddle oriented obliquely to the beach shoreline is used to generate irregular waves at the offshore boundary. In the experiment, the wave height is varied over time in five segments to simulate the change in the energy from a passing storm and is varied alongshore to initiate an alongshore gradient in waves and wave-driven currents. To simulate a constant storm surge, a high mean water level relative to the dune is used, enabling waves to reach the dune toe. The results indicate the formation and evolution of a beach scarp. The retreat of the scarp initially corresponds to time-varying wave energy, but becomes controlled by the changing nearshore beach slope over time. The alongshore current magnitude is governed by the spatio-temporal variability in wave energy and is the main driver of sediment flux. The sand that is eroded from the dune initially deposits at the dune toe when nearshore circulation is weak. However, as the wave energy increases sediment is transported along the beach and is deposited, increasing the surf zone width. The experimental results indicate that small waves at high water levels relative to the dune can drive the formation of a beach scarp. In addition, different levels of incident wave energy drive different rates of sediment transport and morphological evolution with high alongshore variability throughout a storm event. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Horn and Petit Bois islands are two of five Mississippi (MS) barrier islands that provide physical protection from tropical cyclones threatening the MS Gulf Coast, in addition to critical habitat for the northern Gulf of Mexico (GOM). In September 2004, Hurricane Ivan removed a large volume of sediment from the eastern ends of Horn and Petit Bois islands with its 1 to 2 m storm surge and ~194 kph wind speeds. Then, in August 2005 Hurricane Katrina severely impacted the two islands again with its 3.5 to 5.5 m storm surge on Horn and Petit Bois islands, and estimated maximum sustained wind speeds of 204 kph at landfall in southeast Louisiana. Using topographic light detection and ranging (LIDAR) datasets from 2004 to 2016, spatial and temporal changes of the islands' area, sediment volumes, and shorelines were measured to ascertain their geomorphic responses and recovery rates following the impacts of these devastating tropical cyclones. During the 2004–05 hurricane seasons, Horn Island lost ~13.3% of its pre-hurricane Ivan land area, lost ~35.9% sediment volume, and had a total average shoreline change rate of −10 m/yr. Petit Bois Island also lost ~13.3% of its pre-Ivan land area, lost ~27% sediment volume, and had a shoreline change rate of −33 m/yr. Between 2005 (post-Katrina) and 2016, Horn Island recouped ~6.6% of its pre-Ivan land area and ~4.3% sediment volume, whereas Petit Bois Island recovered ~4% of its pre-Ivan land area and ~22.9% sediment volume. The overall averaged shoreline change rates between 2004 and 2016 were −2 m/yr for Horn Island and −3 m/yr for Petit Bois Island. These changes reflect that Horn Island is no longer stable, as its sediment supply cannot keep pace with the current rate of sediment loss, and that because Petit Bois Island's narrow central shoreline is retreating at a rate of 10 m/yr, the island is at risk of breaching during the next storm. Highlighting complex island response, the relationship between area and shoreline changes to that of volume changes was inconsistent. • Pre/post-storm LIDAR-derived change analysis conducted on 2 Mississippi islands. • Both area and volume should be considered to assess barrier island geomorphology. • Both islands lost area/volume post-storm, with slight recovery in following years. • Horn Island is no longer stable, as sediment loss outpaces sediment gain. • Petit Bois Island is at risk of breaching during the next tropical cyclone. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Buried sandy paleo-river channels on the continental shelf can be accessed through dredging for the restoration of beaches and barrier islands which are under the threat of land loss and rising sea levels. However, our knowledge on post-dredging evolution of paleo-river channels is still very limited. In this study we focus on infilling rate, sediment acoustic characteristics, slope change and surficial morphology, all of which have implications for the management of seafloor oil and gas infrastructure. Bathymetric data collected during nine bathymetric surveys over 13 years were used to study the long-term changes of the Peveto Channel dredge pit, which is ~5 km offshore of Holly Beach in western Louisiana, USA. This pit was constructed in 2003 and was completely infilled in or before 2016. Initial pit infilling rates began at 214 cm/year from 2003 to 2004 and then rapidly decreased to an average rate of only 33 cm/year from 2006 to 2016. This corresponds volumetrically to 418,753 and 80,816 m3/year for the same intervals. Pit wall margins displayed small lateral migration, moving <30 m outwards over 13 years, posing minimal threat to adjacent infrastructure. After complete infilling, numerous small mounds were found on 2016 bathymetry, morphologically resembling 'mud volcanoes' that have been reported on deltas, continental shelves and slopes around the world. Newly deposited sediment on seafloor surface had a reflectivity lower than the ambient seafloor environment. Massive amounts of sediments were transported to the pit despite no proximity to direct riverine inputs, making the pit act as an efficient sediment trap. Inferred depth-integrated lateral sediment transport rates were 9.91–12.73 g/m/s. Despite the fact that Peveto Channel pit was filled up, consolidation continues and the filled sediment surface hasn't reach a condition in equilibrium with ambient seafloor yet. Our results highlight the continuing dewatering and long consolidation processes at the pit site even after a complete infilling. Unlabelled Image [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

On October 29, 2012, storm surge and large waves produced by Hurricane Sandy resulted in the formation of a breach in eastern Fire Island, NY. The goals of this study are to gain a better understanding of the physical processes that govern breach behavior and to assess whether process-based models can be used to forecast the evolution of future breaches. The wilderness breach grew rapidly in size during the first winter following formation. Growth of the breach was accompanied by the formation of a complex of flood shoals inside Great South Bay, a primary channel that flowed through the eastern part of the flood shoals, and an ebb shoal on the ocean side of the breach. From the summer of 2013 through late 2015, the breach continued to change and evolve, albeit at a much slower pace than in the first year after formation. A hybrid combination of Delft3D and XBeach models is used to hindcast the morphodynamic evolution of the wilderness breach over the first three years after formation. The formation of the breach during Hurricane Sandy is not part of the simulations. Model simulations are initiated with a post-storm topography in which the breach is already present. The models are capable of hindcasting the main morphodynamic changes of the wilderness breach. The spatial patterns, as well as the bulk statistics, such as breach geometry and sediment volume changes, are reasonably well reproduced by the model. The model sheds light on previously unknown processes of breach evolution, especially regarding sediment transport and flow regimes within the breach complex. • A hybrid combination of Delft3D and XBeach models hindcasts the morphodynamic evolution of a barrier island breach. • Model results are validated against a wide range of field observations. • The models shed light on previously unknown processes of breach evolution regarding sediment transport and flow regimes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal barriers are the first line of defense against storm surge and wind wave induced hazards. Their response to such events, therefore, require continual assessment. Airborne lidar surveying is a valuable remote sensing technique used to assess the dynamics of coastal dunes driven by the impacts of storms and the subsequent recovery processes. Different from previous research conducted on this topic, where pre- and post-storm surveys are employed to analyze the effects of isolated extreme events, this study makes use of a 15-year lidar survey time series of the Caminada-Moreau Headlands. The Caminada-Moreau Headlands, located in Louisiana, USA, on the Gulf of Mexico's northern coast, is a low-gradient, low-elevation mainland barrier which is rapidly eroding due to sediment deprivation, alongshore sediment transport, relative sea-level rise, and cumulative storm impacts. The time period analyzed, from 1998 to 2013, was notable for the number and intensity of hurricanes and tropical storms making landfall in the region. The analyses of the lidar data show that, while storms have frequently overwashed and destroyed the dunes, natural dune recovery has managed to maintain a nearly stable alongshore-averaged dune volume. On the other hand, change in dune crest elevation in the most vulnerable stretches of the coastline has not kept pace with sea-level rise. The analyses herein further suggest that, for low-elevation dunes which rapidly transition into backbarrier wetlands, the relative quantity of subaerial land surface area to open water, directly landward of the duneline, is an influential parameter affecting barrier shoreline morphodynamics. • Mainland coastal barrier subject to average erosion rates in excess of 15 m/yr • Low-lying coastal dunes maintain volume though multiple hurricane impacts • Correlation found between back barrier hypsometry and medium-term erosion rate • Multiple lidar surveys independently ground-truthed with extensive GPS dataset [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

• Morphodynamic hindcast of evolution of multiple-inlet system on barrier-lagoon coast was studied by a process-based model. • The evolution mechanism of two deep channels were studied respectively under a series of initial conditions. • Numerical results revealed how the shape of Barrier Islands and changes of sediment supply affect the morphologic evolution. Understanding the long-term morphodynamic evolution of tidal inlet systems and their control mechanisms has great significance in the management and sustainable development of coastal regions. This study addresses this issue by applying a process-based morphological model (Delft3D) to hindcast morphodynamic evolution of the Laolonggou tidal inlet (LTI) for a duration of 68 years and then analyze the mechanism of morphologic evolution and factors affecting it in tidal inlets. The morphodynamic model is validated against two periods, a natural stage (1938–1983), and a recent erosion stage with reservoir construction (1983–2006). Results show that the evolution pattern, sediment volume changes, and hypsometry curves simulated by the model agree well with field data. A series of scenarios were designed to analyze the mechanism of morphologic evolution and impacting factors. The model results reveal that the asymmetry of the tidal currents in the channels leads to tide residual sediment transport, which causes morphodynamic evolution. The inconsistency of tidal flow path, i.e., ebb dominance occurs in the west channel and flood dominance occurs in the east channel, is an important mechanism for the evolution of the whole system. In addition, the decrease of sediment supply caused by reservoirs in Luanhe River, and extension of the barrier island contribute to the evolution of LTI. Although this study is site-specific, the results are expected to provide valuable information for sustainable management of tidal inlet systems. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Numerical coastal erosion models are used by engineers to predict the magnitude of storm erosion at the coastline. In particular, the 'dry' region of the beach, extending landwards from the waterline to include the beach face, berm and dunes, is a particular focus of interest to managers, planners and other coastal practitioners. However, the choice of the most appropriate numerical model to predict subaerial beach erosion requires careful consideration of the strengths and limitations of each model, and the quality and quantity of field data available for both model calibration and prediction. While no model can perfectly replicate observed upper beach erosion, this study specifically assesses the quantity of field calibration data required to achieve optimum model performance for coastal storm erosion modelling applications. Two of the most commonly used, but differently formulated, coastal erosion profile models are compared: the process-based and more complex model XBeach, and the semi-empirical and significantly simpler model SBEACH. A rigorous calibration technique (the Generalised Likelihood Uncertainty Estimation) is applied to both models, using a comprehensive dataset of pre- and post-storm topographic measurements collected over four differing storm events at Narrabeen-Collaroy Beach in southeast Australia, as well as at two adjacent embayed beaches. When applying the two numerical models using their default parameters (i.e., with no model calibration), SBEACH was found to be the more skilful model and XBeach default parameters were found to have no predictive skill along this stretch of coastline. Once calibrated with detailed field observations obtained before and after a single storm event, XBeach validation skill rose considerably and provided predictions of subaerial beach profile change with greater skill (87% better Brier Skill Score on average for the same calibration data) than SBEACH. Overall XBeach model performance was found to marginally improve when field observations obtained from additional storm events were included in the calibration process, whereas SBEACH showed negligible improvement. A comparison was made of the options available for transferring previously-calibrated parameters to adjacent locations, finding spatial proximity to be the most sensitive indicator of model performance for a transferred parameter set. Due to the alongshore variability in pre-storm topography as well as wave exposure at the sites tested, the spatial coverage of data was more important for the calibration process than the magnitude of the individual storm(s) used for a specific calibration. The results of this study underscore the need for careful consideration of the available calibration field data when choosing and optimising coastal erosion models. • Default XBeach parameters were found to be non-skilful at coastal sites in southeast Australia. • The XBeach model outperformed the SBEACH model when one or more calibration storm event field datasets were available. • Collection of calibration pre- and post-storm field data at specific locations of interest was important. • Spatial proximity was found to be a good performance indicator of calibrated parameter values transferred to new locations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]