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Storms and extremely energetic events may significantly impact the form and structure of beaches, and so cause erosive processes and coastal damages. Efficient management actions require an up-to-date and accurate knowledge of beach morphological changes, with the shoreline position being a good indicator of such changes. This work proposes the use of the open-source Shoreline Analysis and Extraction Tool (SAET) software for the definition of satellite-derived shorelines (SDSs) from L8 and Sentinel-2 imagery to reveal the shoreline position changes at the beaches of the Ebro Delta, NE Spain. Spatial-temporal models (STMs) of shoreline changes enable a characterisation of how the beaches responded to the storms of 2020. In conjunction with wave data, STMs enable an analysis of the erosive response to storm events, as well as a monitoring of subsequent beach recovery in the short and medium term (<1 year). Results show how Storm Gloria (January 2020, Hs max = 7.62 m) acted as a disruptive event and shifting point in the shoreline trend. As a response to that storm, major erosive processes occurred along the delta that caused an average shoreline retreat of 47 m. A progressive recovery during the spring and summer was mainly associated with periods of low wave energy. Nevertheless, by the end of the year a complete recovery had been achieved for about half of the coast, while the other half showed an average erosion of more than 10 m when compared to the pre-storm situation. Both the erosive and the recovery processes took place unevenly on different sections of the coast, probably dependent on factors such as the orientation of the beach and the pattern of longitudinal sediment transport along the coast. • Automatic shoreline extraction from Sentinel 2 and Landsat 8 imagery using SAET. • Pre and post-storm characterisation of SDS position in time and space using STMs. • Storm Gloria (January 2020) caused an unprecedented and heterogeneous impact on the Ebro Delta. • Slow recovery occurred in the months following the event conditioned by orientation and wave patterns. • About half of the delta showed a significant shoreline retreat by the end of 2020. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Storm surge, a major disaster in coastal areas, is generated by tropical cyclones. Strong currents and waves during storm surges often cause sediment transport and beach erosion, significantly damaging the coastal ecosystem. This paper presents a flow-wave-sediment-morphodynamic coupled model to predict morphodynamic changes caused by overwash during storm surges. In the model, the flow field is calculated using the generalized shallow water equations coupled with the Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) model, while sediment transport and bed changes are computed using a non-equilibrium total-load sediment transport model. The model solves the governing equations by employing the explicit finite-volume approach based on a rectangular mesh. The Godunov-type central upwind scheme is adopted to calculate the interface fluxes, thereby solving the complex Riemann problem. A series of numerical experiments considering wave-induced longshore current and short-term bed erosion are conducted to validate the established model and demonstrate its ability to simulate waves, flow fields, and bed changes during storm surge. Specifically, we used the model to simulate the morphological evolution of the Santa Rosa barrier island caused by Hurricane Ivan's storm surge, and the results indicate that the model accurately predicts the real-case erosion process caused by storm surge and overwash during the hurricane. The simulated results clearly explain overwash development, including washover fans, foredune erosion, and back-barrier deposition. It demonstrates that the front dune significantly eroded with the Santa Rosa barrier island coastline retreating by a maximum of about 80 m during the storm surge. More than three breaches with a width of up to 135 m were formed on the sandy barrier due to wave overwash, while the topography at the breach changed significantly. • A new flow-wave-sediment-morphodynamic coupled model is developed to predict morphodynamic changes caused by overwash during storm surges. • A series of numerical experiments conducted using the new model demonstrates its ability and it successfully predicts the overwash erosion of the Santa Rosa barrier island during Hurricane Ivan's storm surge. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Although many studies have been performed in the northern Gulf of Mexico, there have been a paucity of high-resolution sediment data collected from seabed. New multicores were collected repeatedly at 4 fixed stations in the inner Louisiana shelf on March 12, 2021, July 7, 2021, November 20, 2021, and March 5, 2022, respectively, to study detailed spatial and temporal variations of surficial sediment. Being a very high sediment accumulation zone, Raccoon Island dredge pit and its nearby shelf were selected as our study area and additional six vibracores were collected inside and outside the pit for comparison. This study area is about 140 km west of the modern Mississippi Delta and 70 km southeast of the Atchafalaya Delta. A total of 624 samples from both vibracores and multicores were analyzed for this study. Spatially, our results show that sediment near Ship Shoal was the coarsest and sediment deposited in the pit was the finest. The organic matter was highest inside the pit and lowest near Ship Shoal. The carbonate content was the lowest near Ship Shoal. Temporally, surficial sediments were generally coarser in July and November of 2021 and finer in March of 2021 and March of 2022. Although the Mississippi and Atchafalaya Rivers supply a large amount of sediment during spring season, it takes time for the river-derived sediment to be delivered into the study area. Hurricanes Delta, Zeta and Ida passed this area and greatly impacted sediment transport in the years 2021 and 2022. The comparatively coarser sediment in July and November of 2021 were likely related to the resuspension of some coarse sediment by these hurricane events. Besides the river supply, Ship Shoal and barrier islands are nearby localized sandy sources and inner Louisiana shelf is a widespread mud source. This spatial heterogeneity of surficial sediment interplays with the timing of Mississippi and Atchafalaya River flood season and hurricanes and together dictates the sediment texture. This research on a filled-up dredge pit can benefit future evaluation of the safety of existing oil infrastructure and the feasibility of building new pipelines and platforms after dredging activities. Our results also shed light on the study of river- and hurricane-impacted sediment transport in muddy and mixed-texture passive continental margins around the world. • Pit sediment hasn't reached an equilibrium with ambient environment yet. • Surficial sediments were coarser in July and November and finer in March. • Sediment grain size spatial variations were categorized into four groups. • This research will benefit future coastal restoration and sediment management. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal dunes provide many ecosystem services including protection of infrastructure from wave overtopping and habitat for native species. Foredunes grow at different rates and assume different forms (i.e., short and wide to tall and narrow) depending on a range of factors including pre-existing beach and dune morphology, wind, wave, and water levels, sediment grain size, and vegetation characteristics, yet the relative importance of these factors on foredune growth is understudied. Here, we quantify foredune evolution (2016–2019) and explore the relative influence of a suite of metocean, sedimentary, and ecological factors for dune growth on three barrier islands in the U.S. North Carolina Outer Banks (Cape Lookout National Seashore). We incorporate observed and hindcast wind, wave, and water level data into the process-based, coupled beach-dune evolution model, Windsurf, to explore the relative contribution of factors likely to influence foredune growth at the annual timescale (2016–2017). Our cross-shore topographic profile observations show varied interannual foredune change rates and characteristics, including horizontal retreat and progradation at the dune toe and vertical erosion and accretion at the dune crest. Model results indicate that, of the factors explored, pre-existing morphology had the greatest influence on the type of foredune growth that occurred (i.e., incipient dune development, widening of the dune, and/or vertical accretion), which dramatically altered the final shape of the dune. Variations in wind and wave climates were associated with the relative contribution of marine- and aeolian-driven bed elevation changes and were particularly influential during storms. In addition, increases in the minimum elevation of vegetation on the dune profile (analogous to the cross-shore distance between the shoreline and established vegetation line, i.e., the vegetation limit, as coined by Duran and Moore, 2013) increased dune crest height and dune volume. Moreover, variations in the minimum vegetation elevation resulted in a larger range of dune crest elevations and dune volumes than differences in the median sand grain size. We suggest that insights into the relative influence of metocean, sedimentary, and ecological factors to dune growth can assist in the development of practical coastal management strategies. • Pre-existing beach-dune morphology had the largest influence on dune growth type. • Exposure to the dominant wave direction led to increased dune volume. • Higher minimum vegetation elevation and finer sand resulted in taller dunes. • Minimum vegetation elevation influenced dune growth more than sand grain size. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

We present detrital-zircon U–Pb geochronology from the Mississippi, Mobile, and Apalachicola rivers, as well as five beach and barrier island deposits to determine sediment sources, alongshore transport, and sediment mixing in the northeastern Gulf of Mexico. The Mississippi River has a distinct age spectrum defined by prominent Cenozoic and Mesozoic populations coupled with minor Appalachian (490-270 Ma), Grenville (1200-900 Ma), Granite-Rhyolite (1500-1300 Ma), and Yavapai-Mazatzal (1800-1600 Ma) populations. The Mobile and Apalachicola rivers exhibit age spectra containing few to no Cenozoic grains, are proportionately dominated by Appalachian and Grenville populations, and have minor populations consisting of Iaptian Rifting/Gondwanan (850-550 Ma), Granite-Rhyolite, and Yavapai-Mazatzal ages. Comparison of U–Pb age spectra and inverse mixing models shows that beach and barrier island deposits are primarily derived of material from the Apalachicola River, with Mobile River contribution being dependent on geographic position west of Mobile Bay. Minor Mississippi River contribution in coastal deposits results from shelf bypass to deep marine sinks and when present is likely associated with recycling of Coastal Plain strata. Metamorphic zircon grain abundance (14–36%) in coastal deposits and chemical-age relationships to southern Appalachian eastern Blue Ridge and Inner Piedmont provinces corroborate Apalachicola and or Mobile river system provenance. Results from this study suggest that anthropogenic influences and hurricanes have little to no effect on the detrital-zircon age spectra at a regional scale, and that the northeastern Gulf of Mexico can be used as an analog for older Cenozoic and Mesozoic source to sink investigations in the eastern Gulf Coastal Plain. • Detrital zircon geochronology can be used to track sediment transport in coastal deposits in the NE Gulf of Mexico. • Coastal deposits along the northeastern Gulf of Mexico are sourced from the Apalachicola and Mobile river systems. • Spatial relationships of U–Pb age spectra provides a modern analog for ancient deposits in the eastern Gulf Coastal Plain. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A coupled Flow-Wave-Sediment model was used to study hydrodynamics, sedimentation, and bottom boundary layer (BBL) dynamics over the Sandy Point Dredge Pit (SPDP; a potential sand mining site in the Louisiana shelf, northern Gulf of Mexico) during fair weather summer conditions (July and August 2015). The Delft3D modeling system on a curvilinear computational grid with spatial resolution between 10 m and 2.8 km was used. The flow, wave, and sediment transport models were evaluated using water level, current speed, wave parameters, and sediment concentration. During this period, the wind over the Louisiana shelf is characterized as low energy with the prevailing direction from southeast to the southwest, which corresponds to small wave heights (H s < 1.2 m) and small wave periods (T m < 4 s). The relatively shorter waves resuspended sediments only in very shallow areas along the Mississippi Birdfoot Delta. Simulations with and without the SPDP showed that the presence of the pit could decrease the speed of surface currents by as much as 19%, while its effect on wave characteristics was minor. The northward current produced by the prevailing winds transported the discharged sediments from the Mississippi River contributed 60% of the sedimentation over the SPDP. Sediment re-suspension inside the BBL of the SPDP occurred during the days that more energetic waves propagated over the shelf. As a result, sediments from the Mississippi River significantly increased the sediment concentration near the bottom of and throughout the water column above the SPDP. • The Sandy Point Dredge Pit could decrease the speed of surface currents, but the effect on wave characteristics was minor. • The Mississippi River increased the sediment concentration near the bottom of and throughout the water column above the Pit. • The northward current transported the sediments from the Mississippi River contributed 60% of the sedimentation over the Pit. • The average sedimentation rate inside the Sandy Point Dredge Pit was ∼2.5 mm/day. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Predicting coastal erosion requires an accurate morphodynamic model. XBeach has been widely adopted to simulate storm-induced coastal erosion. Because of the large number of model input parameters and their uncertainties, sensitivity analysis is a crucial step toward reliable results. This requires running a large number of computationally expensive simulations. Here, we adopt a computationally cost-effective approach based on the Non-Intrusive Polynomial Chaos Expansion method to quantify the sensitivity of XBeach to its input parameters. The method is applied to the coastal erosion event caused by Hurricane Sandy along the barrier islands of New Jersey in the United States. The results show a spatial variation of the model sensitivity with increasing boundary conditions. Parameters' interaction is found to decrease as the magnitude of boundary conditions increases, causing a reduction in the nonlinearity of the model behavior, and consequently leading to a reduction in the uncertainty of the model output. • Sensitivity of XBeach model to its input parameters is investigated. • Sensitivity is quantified using Non-Intrusive Polynomial Chaos Expansions method. • Effect of interactions among input parameters on model behavior is quantified. • Effects of boundary conditions and site characteristics on sensitivity are quantified. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal barriers are defined as shore-parallel, aggraded-prograded supratidal beach ridge sets and individual single ridge-landforms, composed of sand and/or gravel. Island, spit, and mainland barriers represent the three major topographic subdivisions. In terms of bathymetric and hydrographic characteristics, bottom sediment types and associated habitats, barriers separate the marine offshore from inshore facies. This definition is not uniformly accepted and applied in the literature. Barriers impose reduced salinities inshore, diminish storm impact and moderate inland inundation, protect critical habitats and may mark ancient longshore transport directions, shore and sea-level positions. A wide range of dimensions, topography, and other factors characterize mainland strandplains. Shoal aggradation appears to be the prime island-forming mechanism, followed by accretion around semi-consolidated, elevated cores. Smaller islands may also form by barrier spit fragmentation. Detachment of dune ridges from the mainland shore is an often cited but at best unlikely mode of island genesis. Review of the literature and remote-sensed images created new insights, utilized barrier definitions and genetic theories, as applied in the Mississippi Delta Complex. A three-stage concept, involving dune ridge or barrier spit-detachment by marine encroachment and landward shift of fragmented transgressive islands forms the basis of a recent invited Marine Geology research article. That model assumes spit-growth from delta headlands, followed by splintering into landward-migrating islands. Submerged, they become permanent shoals. For several reasons, this "island-cycle" hypothesis is questionable and a reassessment of the geomorphic and stratigraphic context of this delta coast is required. Contradicting the geomorphic setting of assumed Stage 1, key component of the cycle-model, evidence is lacking for subrecent delta lobes and erosional headland in spawning barrier islands. In addition, the delta headland-flanking islands reveal only progradational (regressive) development and in situ disintegration,. Transgressive landward migrations is known only from the Chandeleur chain's prehistory. Sand from decaying Terrebonne-Lafourche 6 Subdelta headland was the dominant source for the Caminada Strandplain and for the shoal /or island predecessor of Grand Isle. Wave refraction around an inferred Lafourche delta lobe (dated provisionally between ∼2900 - ∼ 2300 yrs. BP) and its decayed erosional headland remnant resulted in diametric reversal of littoral sand transport. An earlier proferred ∼750–300 yrs. BP Caminada Strandplain age range is now replaced by a loosely defined ∼2200- to- ∼800 yrs. BP value, based on ages of Grand Isle and reworked delta hinterland sediments incorporated into the Strandplain. • barrier and barrier categories. • littoral sediment transport reversal. • Mississippi Delta Complex. • strandplain and delta headland interaction. • transgressive island-cycle hypothesis. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Shorelines bordering ebb deltas are often subject to deformation by the approach and attachment of ebb-tidal shoals. Although this is a common behaviour, little attention has been paid to the link between shoal migration and the multi-annual development of the adjacent beach-dune system. This study aims to understand beach-dune systems' behaviour during the approach phase of an ebb-tidal shoal attachment event. Topographic and bathymetric data of the barrier island of Texel (NL) was used to calculate shoreline position, beach and dune volume, dunefoot position, and shoal displacement rates. Two classical beach-dune interaction models were used to understand the observed behaviour: the surfzone-beach-dune model and the sediment budget model. The analysis revealed how a larger bank on the land-facing side of the ebb delta split into two smaller shoals with different morphological behaviours. One of the shoals (S1) moved consistently landwards, recently attaching the shore, whereas the second shoal (S2) is still evolving and presents a milder landward movement than S1. In parallel to the landward movement of S1, the adjacent coastline was subject to erosion, partially counterbalanced by nourishments. However, despite the erosion, dunes are growing in volume, suggesting a net positive transfer of sand from the beach to the dunes. In the surfzone-beach-dune model, regular nourishments positively affect beach state by maintaining sufficient beach size for aeolian sediment transport and reducing shoreline erosion. In the budget model, dune volume growth may occur despite a slightly negative beach budget. Framing Texel in the budget model implies that the beach budget before the start of the approach phase is crucial in defining the behaviour of the dune system during this phase. If the shoal approach significantly reduces the beach budget, the system may cross the budget threshold that dune building is possible. Thus, the dune system may evolve to an erosional state, including dune ridge dissection and blowout development. Hence, nourishments have been essential in keeping the current morphological state during the attachment of the shoal, as they restrict the system from crossing the negative morphological threshold. Thus, without the nourishments, beach erosion driven by the shoal might have led to morphological changes in the dune system that could lead to years of a weakened level of protection until foredune recovery after attachment. • Shoal-induced changes in beach budget influence dune development. • Dune morphology may change depending on the beach state prior to attachment. • Nourishments can retain beach budget at a sufficient level to maintain dune morphology. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Erosion rates along Alaska's Beaufort Sea coast, among the highest in the world, are negatively impacting communities, industrial and military infrastructure, and wildlife habitat. Decreasing maximal winter ice extent and increasing summer open water duration and extent in the Beaufort Sea may be making the coast more vulnerable to destructive storm waves than during recent, colder, icier decades. Previous studies of Beaufort Sea coastal change have been limited to subaerial analyses of the shoreline. Here we describe nearshore seafloor change by comparing post-World War II (WWII) (1945-53) bathymetry data to recently acquired (1985–2018) bathymetry data and relate the observed seafloor change to adjacent shoreline change near Utqiagvik, within Stefansson Sound, and immediately west of Barter Island and Kaktovik. Within the Utqiagvik region, seabed erosion was generally highest (>1.0 m of loss) offshore of Point Barrow and along the eastern end of the Tapkaluk Islands, while there were lesser amounts of deposition (<0.5 m of gain) within the protected waters of Elson Lagoon. Sedimentation was generally highest offshore of Point Barrow, in a region of converging currents, and on the landward side of the barrier islands and spits fronting Elson Lagoon, which is likely related to a regional trend of westerly sediment transport and landward migration of the barrier islands. Within Stefansson Sound, perhaps the most notable changes from post-WWII bathymetry data compared to recent data are a switch from mixed, low erosion and deposition in 1997 to low deposition (<0.5 m) in 2018 east of the Boulder Patch, a switch from low erosion in 1997 to neutral depth change in 2018 in the channel between the north and south Boulder Patch areas, and higher deposition from 1997 to 2018 landward of the rapidly retreating barrier islands along the Sound's northern border. At Barter Island, high erosion near north-facing shorelines and high deposition near west-facing shorelines generally matched shoreline changes. One of our goals is to identify possible processes responsible for the depth changes we quantified. Using simple metrics that relate sediment characteristics with modeled waves and non-wave induced currents, we show that sediment resuspension and transport by both wave and non-wave driven currents likely contribute to the overall patterns of change within the ∼13 m isobath along the open coast, and that the influence of wave action affecting sediment transport is expanding seaward. • Patterns of decadal-scale changes in shoreline positions and bathymetry indicate possible linkages within the nearshore. • Depth changes are additionally driven by sediment resuspension and transport by both wave and non-wave driven currents. • Wave action affecting sediment transport expanded seaward and deepened by as much as 15 cm/yr between 1979 and 2019. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Along much of the world's coastline, coastal barriers serve as the first line of defense against oceanic and meteorological forces. Extreme storms cause large morphological changes on coastal barriers through high sediment transport rates, which may degrade their defensive capabilities. The understanding of morphological impacts is therefore important for coastal resiliency, but is often challenged by site-specific characteristics, such as land cover and sediment availability, and their poorly understood impacts on the governing physical processes. The Caminada Headlands, Louisiana, USA presents unique considerations for morphodynamic modeling with regard to its low-lying topography, variable land cover, nearshore muddy substrate and sand deficiency. This study investigates the effects of land cover and limited sediment supply on low-lying barrier island morphology under storm conditions by using physics-based numerical models. A high-resolution, local-scale sediment transport/morphodynamic model (XBeach) of the Caminada Headlands is verified for Hurricane Gustav's (2008) impact using pre- and post-storm LIDAR surveys. When accurate input data are used to create physics-based numerical models these tools are robust in hindcasting storm impacts and provide a wealth of information as to the governing processes, which is otherwise difficult to obtain observationally. The simulation results show that a short-duration overwash regime dominates the morphological change in this low-lying barrier and is influenced by backbarrier wetland deterioration. The morphological response to overwash is modulated by backbarrier land cover and topography, as reduced accommodation space limits landward transport during the subsequent inundation regime. An intact backbarrier marsh reduces landward washover sediment transport distances and promotes deposition at supratidal elevations. In light of these findings, simultaneous restoration/creation of backbarrier wetlands in conjunction with subaerial beach renourishment may be an effective form of increasing the resiliency of low-lying barriers subject to frequent overwashing. • A basin-scale hydrodynamic-wave and local-scale sediment transport model constructed for barrier washover simulations. • A hindcast of Hurricane Gustav's (2008) hydrodynamics and morphological impact to Louisiana verified with multiple data. • A relationship between storm-driven washover sediment transport and backbarrier wetland land cover/topography investigated. • Limited nearshore sand sediment supply influences the accuracy of storm-driven washover sediment transport modeling. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Human activities, such as dam construction and reclamation, can affect sedimentation rates as well as sediment topography and transport in estuaries such as the Nakdong River Estuary. To investigate the sedimentation history, two sediment cores (1–2 m long) were sampled in tidal flats of the estuary. In addition, surface sediments were collected to study present sedimentation environments that appear to be three environments locally: 1) fine-grained sediment deposition; 2) sediments under stronger hydraulic energy; and 3) sandy sediments with good sorting. At the fine sediment deposition, environmental sensitive fraction of elements (Cu, Pb, As, and Co) show an increased sedimentation flux after the dam construction. On the other hand, organic matter-normalized Pb-210 concentrations in sediment core reveal that marine-originated organic matter is predominant in the upper ~45 cm of sediment layers, indicating a significant change in sedimentation history related to massive sedimentation within the Nakdong River Estuary. • Sediment fluxes for metal contaminants increase after the dam construction. • OM-normalized 210Pb XS profile reflects change in sedimentation within estuary. • Large-scale topographical changes influence the spatio-temporal sedimentation rate. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]