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The paper is devoted to further development of an accelerated method for simulation of the two-dimensional surface waves at infinite depth with the use of a two-dimensional model derived with simplifications of the three-dimensional equations for potential periodic deep-water waves. A 3D full wave model (FWM) is based on a numerical solution of a 3D Poisson equation written in the surface-fitted coordinates for a nonlinear component of the velocity potential. For sufficient vertical resolution used for the Poisson equation, the 3D model provides very high accuracy. The simplified model is based on the 2D Poisson equation written for a free surface. This exact equation contains both the first and second derivatives of the velocity potential, i.e., it is unclosed. The analysis of the accurate solutions for the 3D velocity potential obtained with the 3D model shows that those variables are linearly connected to each other. This property allows us to obtain a 2D equation for the first derivative of the velocity potential (i.e., vertical velocity on surface), which gives the closed 2D formulation for a 3D problem of two-dimensional waves. The previously developed scheme was not universal since the parameters of the closure scheme had to be adjusted to the specific setting. The current paper offers a new formulation of a closing scheme based on the integral parameters of wave field. The method of closing the equations, as well as the numerical parameters, were chosen on the basis of the multiple numerical experiments with the full nonlinear wave model (FWM) and selection of a suitable closing scheme. That is why the given model can be called Heuristic Wave Model (HWM). The connection between the first and second variables is not precise; hence, the method as a whole cannot be exact. However, the derived 2D model is able to reproduce different statistical characteristics of the 2D wave field with good accuracy. The main advantage of the model developed is its high performance exceeding that of 3D model by about two decimal orders. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The numerical modeling of two-dimensional surface wave development under the action of wind is performed. The model is based on three-dimensional equations of potential motion with a free surface written in a surfacefollowing nonorthogonal curvilinear coordinate system in which depth is counted from a moving surface. A threedimensional Poisson equation for the velocity potential is solved iteratively. A Fourier transform method, a secondorder accuracy approximation of vertical derivatives on a stretched vertical grid and fourth-order Runge-Kutta time stepping are used. Both the input energy to waves and dissipation of wave energy are calculated on the basis of earlier developed and validated algorithms. A one-processor version of the model for PC allows us to simulate an evolution of the wave field with thousands of degrees of freedom over thousands of wave periods. A long-time evolution of a twodimensional wave structure is illustrated by the spectra of wave surface and the input and output of energy. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The concept of a constant-flux layer is usually employed for vertical profiling of the wind measured at some elevation near the ocean surface. The surface waves, however, modify the balance of turbulent stresses very near the surface, and therefore such extrapolations can introduce significant biases. This is particularly true for buoy measurements in extreme conditions, when the anemometer mast is within the wave boundary layer (WBL) or even below the wave crests. In this paper, field data and aWBL model are used to investigate such biases. It is shown that near the surface the turbulent stresses are less than those obtained by extrapolation using the logarithmic-layer assumption, and the mean wind speeds very near the surface, based on Lake George field observations, are up to 5% larger. The behavior is then simulated by means of a WBL model coupled with nonlinear waves, which confirmed the observations and revealed further details of complex behaviors at the wind-wave boundary layer. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The probability of extremely high waves is calculated by two methods. The first method is based on the direct numerical simulation of two-dimensional wave field using a three-dimensional nonlinear model. The second method consists in calculation of the probability of wave heights over ensemble of fields representing a superposition of linear waves with random phases and a spectrum similar to that obtained in the nonlinear model. It is shown that the integral probability of extreme waves are very close to each other in both cases. This implies that the role of nonlinearity in the generation of extreme waves is probably not so important as it was assumed in most papers considering this phenomenon. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A direct wave model based on the one-dimensional nonlinear equations for potential waves is used for simulation of wave field development under the action of energy input, dissipation, and nonlinear wave-wave interaction. The equations are written in conformal surface-fitted nonstationary coordinate system. New schemes for calculating the input and dissipation of wave energy are implemented. The wind input is calculated on the basis of the parameterization developed through the coupled modeling of waves and turbulent boundary layer. The wave dissipation algorithm, introduced to prevent wave breaking instability, is based on highly selective smoothing of the wave surface and surface potential. The integration is performed in Fourier domain with the number of modes M = 2048, broad enough to reproduce the energy downshifting. As the initial conditions, the wave field is assigned as train of Stokes waves with steepness ak = 0.15 at nondimensional wavenumber k = 512. Under the action of nonlinearity and energy input the spectrum starts to grow. This growth is followed by the downshifting. The total time of integration is equal to 7203 initial wave periods. During this time the energy increased by 1111 times. Peak of the spectrum gradually shifts from wavenumber nondimensional k = 512 down to k = 10. Significant wave height increases 33 times, while the peak period increases 51 times. Rates of the peak downshift and wave energy evolution are in good agreement with the JONSWAP formulation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

It is known that drag coefficient varies in broad limits depending on wind velocity and wave age as well as on wave spectrum and some other parameters. All those effects produce large scatter of the drag coefficient, so, the data is plotted as a function of wind velocity forming a cloud of points with no distinct regularities. Such uncertainty can be overcome by the implementation of the WBL model instead of the calculations of drag with different formulas. The paper is devoted to the formulation of the Wave Boundary Layer (WBL) model for the parameterization of the ocean-atmosphere interactions in coupled ocean-atmosphere models and wave prediction models. The equations explicitly take into account the vertical flux of momentum generated by the wave-produced fluctuations of pressure, velocity and stresses (WPMF). Their surface values are calculated with the use of the spectral beta-functions whose expression was obtained by means of the 2-D simulation of the WBL. Hence, the model directly connects the properties of the WBL with an arbitrary wave spectrum. The spectral and direct wave modeling should also take into account the momentum flux to a subgrid part of the spectrum. The parameterization of this effect in the present paper is formulated in terms of wind and cut-off frequency of the spectrum. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]