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Cyclodipeptides (CDPs) or diketopiperazines (DKPs) are often found in nature and in foodstuff and beverages and have attracted great interest for their bioactivities, biocompatibility, and biodegradability. In the laboratory, they can be prepared by green procedures, such as microwave-assisted cyclization of linear dipeptides in water, as performed in this study. In particular, five CDPs were prepared and characterized by a variety of methods, including NMR and ESI-MS spectroscopies and single-crystal X-ray diffraction (XRD), and their cytocompatibility and anti-aging activity was tested in vitro, as well as their ability to penetrate the different layers of the skin. Although their mechanism of action remains to be elucidated, this proof-of-concept study lays the basis for their future use in anti-age cosmetic applications.

The stratum corneum protects the body against external agents, such as metals, chemicals, and toxics. Although it is considered poorly permeable to them, comprising the major barrier to the permeation of such substances, it may become a relevant gate of entry for such molecules. Cerium (Ce) is a lanthanide that is widely used in catalytic, energy, biological and medicinal applications, owing to its intrinsic structural and unique redox properties. Cerium salts used to produce cerium oxide (CeO2) nanostructures can potentially come into contact with the skin and be absorbed following dermal exposure. The objective of this study was to investigate the percutaneous absorption of three inorganic Ce salts: cerium (III) chloride (CeCl3); cerium (III) nitrate (Ce(NO3)3) and ammonium cerium (IV) nitrate (Ce(NH4)2(NO3)6), which are commonly adopted for the synthesis of CeO2 using in vitro - ex vivo technique in Franz diffusion cells. The present work shows that Ce salts cannot permeate intact human skin, but they can penetrate significantly in the epidermis (up to 0.29μg/cm2) and, to a lesser extent in dermis (up to 0.11μg/cm2). Further studies are required to evaluate the potential effects of long-term exposure to Ce.